ignition JEEP DJ 1953 Workshop Manual

'Jeep1
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
will
cause the battery to gas excessively and
will

shorten the life of the ignition contacts and, in

general,
will
have a detrimental
effect
on all con­
nected load.

Connect
an ammeter in series with the regulator
"B"
terminal and the lead removed from the termi­

nal.
Run the generator at a medium speed and per­

form
the following operation. After each
test
is
completed reconnect whatever leads have been opened.

H-51.
Test One
Disconnect the field lead at the generator.

a.
Output drops to zero—shorted field circuit in regulator or in wiring harness. See
test
2.

b.
Output
does
not drop—shorted field circuit in
generator. Inspect generator.

H-52.
Test Two
Disconnect the field lead at the regulator.

a.
Output drops to zero—shorted field in regulator.
See
test
3.

b.
Output
does
not drop—shorted wiring harness.

Repair
or replace wiring harness.

H-53.
Test
Three

Remove the regulator cover and hold the
voltage

regulator contacts open.

a.
Output drops to zero—regulator contacts stick­

ing,
regulator out of adjustment, or regulator in­ operative.
Check
operation
(test
5), check for high
resistance
(test
4), and clean contacts per instruc­
tions in Par. H-56.

b.
Output
does
not drop—shorted field circuit in
the regulator.
Clean
the regulator contacts and in­ spect the regulator visually for incorrect wiring be­
tween units and shorted leads.

H-54.
Test
Four

Operate
the units at 10 amperes output and meas­

ure
the
voltage
drop from the regulator base to
the generator frame.

a.
Voltage reading below .03 volts—ground
cir­
cuit
is satisfactory. See
test
5.

b.
Voltage reading above .03 volts—Inspect ground

circuit
for poor connections and eliminate the high
resistance. See
test
5.

H-56.
Test
Five

Connect
a headphone from the regulator field ter­
minal
to the base and hold the current regulator
contacts closed.

a.
A steady beat is heard—voltage regulator oper­
ating.
Reset regulator as in the operation
test,

Par.
H-47.

b.
An unsteady beat is heard—dirty or sticking
contacts.
Clean
contacts per instructions in Par.

H-56.
c.
No beat is heard—inoperative
voltage
regulator
unit.
Adjust regulator operation as in the operation

test.
If the regulator cannot be adjusted within
limits,
remove for overhaul.
H-56.
Cleaning of Contacts

Clean
the
voltage
regulator contacts with a #6

American
Swiss cut equalling file.
File
lengthwise

and
parallel to the armature and then clean the
contacts with clean linen tape.
First
draw a piece
of tape that has been wet with carbon tetrachlor­
ide
between
the contacts then follow with dry tape. Reset the regulator operation as in the oper­
ation
test,
Par. H-47.

H-57.
Low Battery and a Low or No Charging Rate

Check
all wiring for
loose
connections, frayed in­
sulation and high resistance connections and cor­
rect
any fault.

Make
sure the generator operates correctly with­
out the regulator in the
circuit.
Remove the "A"

and
"B" leads from the regulator and connect an
ammeter
between
them. Remove the field lead from
the regulator and while operating at idle speed
touch the field lead to the regulator base. Increase
the speed slowly noting the charging rate. Do not

increase
the output above the rated output of the generator. If the generator output
will
not build

up,
inspect the wiring harness for shorts and
opens

and
remove the generator for an overhaul.

Connect
an ammeter
between
the battery lead and
the regulator
"B"
terminal. Connect the field lead to the regulator "F" terminal and connect the

armature
lead to the regulator
"A"
terminal.
Con­

nect a voltmeter from the regulator
"A"
terminal to
the regulator base. Operate the generator at a medium speed and perform the following
tests:

H-58.
Test Six

Read
the voltmeter.

a.
Voltage builds up—open series
circuit.
See
test
7.
b.
Voltage
does
not build up—regulator out of ad­
justment, field circuit open, grounded series
circuit.
See
test
8.

H-59.
Test Seven
Remove the regulator cover and with the generator
operating at a medium speed hold the circuit

breaker
contacts closed.

a.
Ammeter shows no charge—open
circuit
breaker
shunt winding, incorrect setting of circuit breaker,

or
dirty contacts.
Clean
contacts and reset circuit

breaker
as in
Par.
H-47d. If the circuit breaker
can­
not be set, the shunt coil is open and the regulator
should be removed for overhaul.

b.
No generator output—clean the circuit breaker
contacts and try the
test
again. If there is
still
no
charge the series windings are open and the regu­

lator
should be removed for overhaul.

H-60.
Test
Eight

Run
the generator at idle speed and momentarily
connect a jumper from the
F-terminal
to the regu­

lator
base.

a.
Voltage builds up—open field circuit or regula­
tor out of adjustment. See
test
9.
b.
Voltage
does
not build up—grounded series
cir­

cuit.
Remove regulator for overhaul. 193

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM H-61.
Test Nine

Operate
at a medium speed with the jumper re­ moved. Remove the regulator cover and hold the

voltage
regulator contacts closed.

a.
Voltage builds up—voltage regulator contacts
burned
or dirty or incorrect regulator setting.

Clean
the contacts and adjust the regulator as in

Par.
H-47d.

b.
Voltage
does
not build up—clean contacts and
repeat
test.
If the
voltage
still
does
not build up, see
test
10.

H-62.
Test Ten
Remove the regulator cover and hold the current
regulator contacts closed.

a.
Voltage builds up—current regulator contacts
burned
or dirty or incorrect regulator setting.

Clean
the contacts and adjust the regulator as in

Par.
H-47d.

b.
Voltage
does
not build up—clean the contacts

and
repeat the
test.
If the
voltage
still
does
not

build
up remove the regulator for an overhaul.

H-63. ALTERNATOR CHARGING SYSTEM

Most vehicles have, as standard equipment, a 35-

amp.,
12-volt, negative ground alternator and a
transistorized
voltage
regulator.
The
alternator charging circuit consists of the
battery, alternator,
voltage
regulator, ignition
switch,
and charge indicator light.

An
alternator differs from a conventional DC
shunt generator in that the armature is stationary,

and
is called the stator, while the field rotates,
and
is called the rotor.
With
the alternator con­
struction,
the higher current values involved in
the stator may be conducted to the external circuit through fixed leads and connections, rather than
through a rotating commutator and brushes, as in the DC generator.

The
alternator employs a three-phase stator
winding. The rotor consists of a field coil encased
between
six poled interleaved sections, producing

a
twelve
pole
magnetic field with alternator north

and
south poles. By rotating the rotor inside the stator, an alternating current is induced in the stator windings.
This
alternating current is
changed to direct current by
diodes
and conducted
to the output terminal of the alternator.
Six
silicon
diode
rectifiers act as electrical one-way valves.
Three
of the
diodes
have negative polarity

and
are grounded. The other three
diodes
have
positive polarity and connected to the output
terminal.
In all alternators discussed in this

manual,
the
diodes
are pressed into heat sinks.

There
are two heat sinks, one positive and the
other negative.

Since
the
diodes
have a high resistance to the
flow of
current
in one direction and a low resistance
in
the
opposite
direction, they are connected in a
manner
which allows current to flow from the
alternator to the battery in the low resistance
direction.
The high resistance in the
opposite

direction prevents the flow of current from the
battery to the alternator. Because of this feature,
no
circuit
breaker
is
required
between
the alternator
and
the battery.
Residual
magnetism in the rotor field
poles
is
negligible. Therefore the starting field current must be supplied by the battery. It is connected
to the field winding through the ignition switch

and
charge indicator lamp.
As
in the DC shunt generator, the alternator
voltage
is regulated by varying the field current.
In
these
alternator systems, this is accomplished
electronically in the transistorized
voltage
reg­
ulator.
No current regulator is required since all
alternators have self-limiting current character­
istics.

The
entire DC output of the alternator has to pass
through the isolation diode. The isolation
diode
is
not essential for rectification. Its purpose is threefold.
It
provides automatic solid
state
switch for
illumi­

nating the alternator charge
-
discharge indicator
light when the alternator is not charging properly.
It
automatically connects the
voltage
regulator to
the alternator and battery when the alternator is
operating.
It
eliminates electrical leakage across the alternator

diodes
so that leakage is negligible when the vehicle
is not in use.
The
isolation
diode
is mounted in a separate alumi­

num
heat sink. The 35-amp. alternator has a single
silicon diode. The alternator is designed to supply the electrical demands of the battery and the
accessory circuits through a wide range of
engine

speeds. The alternator is lighter and more compact

than
a conventional DC shunt generator of com­

parable
electrical size.

The
principal
components of the alternator are
the stator, the rotor, the slip ring end head, the

drive
end head, the
diode
rectifiers, and the isolation diode.

a.
The stator consists of a laminated iron core on

which
the three-phase windings are wound in
slots
around
the inside circumference. A
pair
of leads
are
connected to each of the three points of the
winding. One of each
pair
of leads connects to a
negative
diode
rectifier and one to a positive
diode
rectifier.

b.
The rotor consists of a single field coil encased

between
two six-fingered, interleaved iron sections assembled to the shaft. The two ends of the field
coil
are connected to two slip rings which are in­
sulated from each other and from the shaft.
c. The slip ring end head supports the rectifier heat sinks; a prelubricated sealed
ball
bearing, in

which
the rotor shaft rotates; and the brush holders
and
brushes.

d.
The drive end head supports a prelubricated
sealed
ball
bearing in which the drive end of the rotor shaft rotates.
e. The
diode
rectifiers are pressed in the rectifier brackets or heat sinks and are connected to the
stator leads.
f. The isolation
diode
is pressed in the aluminum heat sink mounted to the
rear
of the alternator. The
complete assembly is covered with a red insulating coating.

For
repairing the alternator, many of its major components are furnished as complete assemblies

including:
complete brush assembly which requires 194

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete

rectifying
diode assemblies
which
eliminate the need
for removing and replacing individual diodes; a
corpplete isolation diode assembly; and a rotor
assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field

coil,
and slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing
at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining
the system
voltage
at the output terminal. The
output current is determined by the battery electri­
cal
load; such as headlights, heater, etc.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed

unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced
as a complete unit.

H-64. ALTERNATOR
PRECAUTIONS

The
following precautions must be observed to
prevent damage to the alternator and regulator.

a.
Never reverse battery connections. Always

check
the battery polarity with a voltmeter before

any
connections are made to be sure that all con­
nections correspond to the battery ground polarity of the vehicle.

b.
Booster batteries for starting must be properly
connected. Make sure that the negative cable of
the booster battery is connected to the negative

terminal
of the battery in the vehicle. The positive
cable of the booster battery should be connected
to the positive terminal of the battery in the
vehicle.

c.
Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger.

d.
Never use a fast charger as a booster for

starting
the vehicle.

e.
Never disconnect the
voltage
regulator while
the
engine
is running.

f.
Do not ground the alternator output terminal.
g.
Do not operate the alternator on an open
circuit
with
the field energized.

h.
Do not attempt to polarize an alternator.

These
precautions are stated here as an aid to

service
personnel. They are also restated at appro­

priate
places in the
text
of this section of the
manual.

H-65. ALTERNATOR
CHARGING
SYSTEM SERVICE
Important:
All alternator
tests
for the 35, 40 and
55 amp alternator are the same, however, there is a
difference
between
the location of the various ter­

minals
and field current specifications. The field

current
of the 35 amp alternator should be 1.7 to 2.3 amps, 40 and 55 amp alternators should be 1.8
to 2.4 amps, with
full
battery
voltage
applied to
the filed coil. Disassembly and assembly procedures

are
the same for all three alternators.
Terminal
locations and wire harness color
codes
for the 35,
40 and 55 amp alternator are shown in Fig. H-38.

H-66.
Service Diagnosis

In
diagnosing a suspected malfunction of the

alternator
charging system, consideration must
be given to the complete electrical power plant of the vehicle; including the alternator, regulator,
ignition switch, charge indicator lamp, battery,

and
all associated wiring. If it is suspected that the

alternator
is not fully charging the battery and

fulfilling
the electrical requirements of the electrical
system, several checks should be made before

checking
the alternator itself:

Note:
Whenever service is required in connection

with
an alternator problem, the first
step
should be to verify that the wiring harness hook-up is correct
as indicated in Fig. H-38.

a.
Test the condition of the battery and
state
of
charge
(Par. H-2).
If the battery is not fully charged
and
in
good
condition, use a replacement battery
for making alternator system
tests.

Caution:
Make certain that the negative battery

post
is connected to ground when making the
battery installation. Serious damage to the alter­

nator
can result if battery polarity is reversed.

b.
Check
fan belt for proper tension (Par.
C-27).

Caution:
To increase belt tension, apply pressure
to alternator front housing only as permanent damage can result if pressure is applied to
rear

housing.

H-67.
Alternator In Vehicle Tests

The
following
tests
are made with the alternator

in
the vehicle with output and regulator connec­
tions maintained to the alternator except as noted

in
Fig. H-27 and H-28. The field plug and
voltage
regulator are disconnected for
these
tests.
The

tests
are given in proper order and detail in the
following paragraphs.

a.
Isolation Diode Test: To determine if the isola­
tion diode is open or shorted, refer to Par. H-69.

b.
Alternator Output Test: To isolate the trouble
to the alternator or regulator, refer to Par. H-70.

c.
Alternator
Field
Circuit
Test: To determine the condition of the field
circuit
(brushes and rotor),

refer
to Par. H-73.

d.
Brush
Insulation
and Continuity
Test:
To deter­
mine the condition of the
brush,
refer to
Par.
H-75.

e.
Rotor In-Vehicle Test: To determine whether
the rotor coil is open or shorted, refer to
Par.
H-73.
f. Any further
tests
must be conducted with the

alternator
removed and disassembled. When this
is done, the condition of the rotor, the rectifying

and
isolation diodes, and the stator can be further
tested.

A
commercial alternator tester Sun
Electric
Model

VAT-20
or equivalent can be used to make all
necessary
tests
on the alternator system. If a com­

mercial
tester is used, follow the recommended
testing procedure outlined by the tester manu­

facturer.
If
a commercial tester is not available, follow the
testing procedure as outlined in this manual.

H-68.
Test Equipment

a.
Volt Ampere Tester such as Sun
Electric
Model

VAT-20
or equivalent with meter ranges as shown

in
the following list can be used. 195

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM DC
ammeter — 0 to 60 ampere

DC
ammeter — 0 to 5 ampere

DC
voltmeter — 0 to 16 volt
Rheostat — 40 ohm capable of
handling
3 amps.

Carbon
Pile — 45 amperes

b.
Diode Rectifier Tester C-3829.

c.
12-volt DC
test
lamp.

d.
Ohmmeter of any commercial type is not ab­solutely necessary but can be helpful.

H-69.
Isolation Diode
Check

With
the ignition key in the off position the correct voltage at the auxiliary terminal is zero volts. If
voltage measured at auxiliary terminal is the same as voltage at output terminal, the isolation diode
is shorted. In most cases, the charge indicator lamp
would be glowing with the ignition off if the isola­ tion diode were shorted. Refer to Fig. H-23.
GREEN

DC
VOLTS
13401

FIG.
H-23—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-
SHORTED DIODE
With
the engine running the correct voltage at the

auxiliary
terminal is 15.4 volts and at output ter­

minal
is 14.4 volts. If voltage of auxiliary terminal
is 15.4 volts, while at output terminal it is 12 volts

or
battery voltage, the isolation diode is open. In
most cases, this would be indicated by the charge

GREEN

TO
CHARGE
INDICATOR
LAMP1

15.4
VOLTS BLACK
VOLT

REG DC
VOLTS

BATTERY

DC
VOLTS
FIG.
H-24—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-

OPEN DIODE
indicator
lamp glowing when the engine is running.

Refer
to Fig. H-24.

If
the isolation diode is shorted or open, the heat

sink
and diode should be replaced as an assembly.

At
the time of manufacture, the diode is pressed into the heat sink and the complete assembly is in­
sulated from the alternator housing.

H-70.
Alternator Output Test

This
test
excludes the regulator from the alternator
system, thereby isolating the problem to either the regulator or alternator. Disconnect field and voltage regulator plug and
connect jumper from auxiliary terminal to field

terminal.
Start
engine and run at idle. Refer to

Fig.
H-25.
DC
VOLTS

13403

FIG.
H-25—ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
TEST
If
voltage at auxiliary terminal rises to 15 or 16
volts now, when it did not with voltage regulator
connected, then defect is in regulator and it should
be replaced. If voltage
does
not rise at auxiliary

terminal,
defect is in alternator stator or rectifier diodes, if field circuit checked out properly. For
defects
in stator or diodes, remove alternator from vehicle.

If
rated current output is obtained with at least 13
volts but less than 15 volts at the output terminal,
the alternator is functioning properly.

Caution:
Do not exceed rated current output of
alternator
by increasing load on alternator.

If
rated
current
output cannot be obtained, proceed

with
the
tests
and checks given in the following
paragraphs
and isolate the cause.
Note: The system is designed to produce slightly
more output at low operating temperatures and less
at higher temperatures to accommodate the
varying
demands of electrical power normally consumed at

these
temperatures.

H-71.
Regulator Test

The
regulator should be checked with an alternator
that is functioning properly. If the alternator is questionable, perform the Alternator Output Test
(Par
H-70) which excludes the regulator from the

charging
system and, therefore,
tests
the condition
of the alternator alone. 196

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-72.
Removal
and
Installation
of

Voltage Regulator

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit.
It
cannot be disassembled or adjusted. If found to
be defective in any way, it must be replaced as
a
unit.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is mounted on
the fender dust shield by three mounting screws.

Wiring
connections to the charging circuit are made through a three-prong connector.

To
remove the regulator, disconnect the three
-
prong connector and remove the three mounting

screws.
Installation of the regulator is the reverse
of the removal. (Refer to Fig. H-26.)
FIG.
H-26—VOLTAGE
REGULATOR

H-73.
Alternator Field Circuit Test

Voltage
Test — Refer to Fig. H-27.

a.
With the ignition key on and
engine
not
run­
ning,
the correct
voltage
at the auxiliary terminal is
approximately 1.5 volts. If the
voltage
at auxiliary

terminal
is higher than 2 volts, field circuit is defective — check brushes.
GREEN

13404

FIG.
H-27—FIELD
CIRCUIT TEST—VOLTAGE If
voltage
reads zero volts at auxiliary terminal,
check charge indicator lamp and associated circuit.
If
this
voltage
is not correct, continue with the fol­
lowing
test
described in paragraph b.
Amperage Test — Refer to Fig. H-28. b.
This
test
evaluates complete field circuit, inde­
pendent of
voltage
regulator.
Circuit
is through
brushes, slip rings, rotor to ground. With ignition switch off, current should be 2 to 2.5 amps. If
less

than
this, check brushes and slip rings. It is de­

sirable
to use a field rheostat in series with meter
for protection of the meter. If field is shorted, ex­
cessive current
will
flow through meter and dam­
age may result.
GREEN
FIELD
WIRE

DISCONNECTED

13405

FIG.
H-28—FIELD
CIRCUIT TEST- AMPERAGE
DRAW
H-74.
Brush Removal
and
Inspection

Refer
to Fig. H-29.

The
brushes can be removed and inspected while
the alternator is in the vehicle.

a.
Disconnect the plug to the field terminal. b. Remove the two screws and brush cover.
c. Remove brushes.
d.
Inspect brushes for excessive wear and proper
tension. The brushes can be installed by reversing
the above procedure.

H-75.
Brush Insulation
and
Continuity Test

Refer
to Fig. H-30.

a.
Connect leads of a 12-volt
test
lamp to field
FIG.
H-29—BRUSH
REMOVAL

1—
Screw

2—
Cover

3—
Brush
and
Holder
Assembly
4—
Alternator
197

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
FIG.
H-38—WIRE
COLOR CODE
AND

LOCATIONS
FOR
ALTERNATOR HOOK-UP

1— Regulator (Auxiliary)
Terminal
(Cable —
Grey)

2— Output
Terminal:
(Red)

3—
Regulator
Terminal
(Cable —
Grey)

4—
Ground
Terminal
(Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
5—
Field
Terminal
(Cable — Green-White
Tracer)

6—
Ground
(Optional)
Terminal
(Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
REAR
VIEW

35
AMP.
ALTERNATOR
REAR
VIEW
40
& 55 AMP.
ALTERNATOR
given in Par. H-78, adjusting the fan belt to its
proper tension after the alternator is mounted, as described in Par. C-27. Wires should be connected
as shown in Fig. H-38.

When
the vehicle is equipped with a radio, a .55
mfd. capacitor is required on the alternator. Mount
the capacitor strap to a ground terminal and con­
nect the lead to the output terminal.
H-88.
STARTING
SYSTEM
SERVICE
H-89.
Ignition
Switch

The
ignition switch serves both to energize the
ignition system and
engage
the starter switch.
The
ignition switch has four positions: (1) AC­

CESSORY,
(2)
LOCK,
(3) ON, and (4)
START. The
key must be in the switch to turn it to any position other than
LOCK,
and the key can be
removed only in the
LOCK
position.
In "ACC",
a connection is made from the battery

terminal
to the accessory terminal of the switch to
allow accessories such as the radio, blower and/or
windshield wiper to be operated with the ignition, fuel
gauge
and indicator light circuits off.
In "LOCK",
no accessory supplied through the
ignition switch can be operated. Also, the ballast
resistor (V-6
engine
only) circuit to the ignition
coil
(IGN) is grounded.
In
"ON", a connection is made from the battery

terminal
to the accessory terminal so that all
ignition switch supplied accessories can be operated. Also the battery is connected to the ballast resistor
(V-6
engine
only) leading to the ignition coil

(IGN).
From
this same terminal, a lead
into
the
instrument cluster energizes the fuel
gauge
and
indicator lights.
In "START",
all ignition switch supplied acces­
sories are temporarily disconnected. A connection is made to the starter solenoid lead. The charge

and
oil indicator lamps
will
light until the
engine
is started.
H-90.
Ignition
Switch
Removal

a.
Remove the bezel nut and pull back the main
switch body.
Lower
the switch
body
from under the instrument panel so that the wiring harness plug

can
be removed from the prong connection,
b. If the lock cylinder is to be removed, turn the
ignition key to the right and insert a short
piece

of wire or end of a paper clip
into
the lock release

hole
in the switch body. Pressing on the lock
cyl­
inder retainer
will
allow the cylinder to be removed.
H-91.
Ignition
Switch
Installation

Before installing the lock cylinder
into
the main
switch body,
note
the position of the lock cylinder
retainer.

a.
Place the lock cylinder
into
the main switch
body
with the highest part of the lock cylinder
retainer in line with the lock release
hole
in the
main
switch body.
b. Compress the lock cylinder retainer so that the
lock cylinder can be installed all the way
into
the

main
switch
body
or until the retainer can be

seen
through the pin hole.

c.
Install
wiring harness plug
onto
switch
body

prong connection.

d.
Install
this main switch
body
into
the instru­
ment panel opening from the
rear.

e. To make sure that the switch is in its correct position, install the ignition key in the off position.
Then
turn the switch
body
until the key is straight
up and down. Remove the key, install the bezel
nut and secure.
H-92.
PRESTOLITE
STARTING
MOTOR
DAUNTLESS
V-6 and

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

The
Prestolite starting motor on the V6
engine
is

similar
in construction (with exception of pinion housings) to the starting motor installed on F4

engines.
The
starter solenoid switch is bolted to the starter
frame.

The
starter is equipped with
sealed-type
absorbent
bronze bearings and no lubricant is required. Service procedures for the Prestolite starter are
given in
Pars.
H-93 to H-107. 202

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
13406

FIG.
H-39—STARTING
CIRCUIT

1—
Ground
Cable
2—
Battery

3—
Positive Cable
4—
Alternator
Wire
5—
Alternator

6— Ignition Switch
Wire

H-93.
Maintenance Procedure

A
periodic inspection should be made of the start­ ing circuit. Since the interval
between
these
checks

will
vary according to the type of service, it should, under normal conditions, be made every 500 hours
of operation. Inspect all starting circuit wiring for damage.
Check
for
loose
or corroded terminals and
for dependable operation of the starting motor.

H-94.
Wiring

Refer
to Fig. H-39. Inspect the starting circuit to make sure that all
connections are clean and tight.
Check
for worn or damaged insulation on the wires. Perform a volt­

age-loss
test
to make sure there is no
loss
of start­ ing motor efficiency resulting from high resistance
connections. Voltage
loss
from the battery ter­
minal
to the starting motor terminal should not
exceed .30 volts for each 100 amperes. Voltage
loss
between
the battery ground
post
and the start­ing motor frame should not exceed .10 volts for
each 100 amperes. If the
voltage
loss
is greater
than
these
limits, measure the
voltage
loss
over
each part of the circuit until the resistance causing the
voltage
loss
is located and corrected.

H-95.
Commutator
Sluggish starting motor operation may be caused by a dirty commutator or worn brushes. The com­mutator cannot be cleaned while the. starting motor is mounted on the
engine
and it
will
be necessary
to remove it and proceed as for an overhaul. Should 7— Ignition Switch
8— Solenoid
Wire

9—
Starter

10— Solenoid
11—
Connector
Strap
the commuator be rough or worn, it should be
removed for cleaning and reconditioning.
H-96.
Overhaul Procedure

At
periodic intervals the starting motor circuit
should be thoroughly checked and the motor re­ moved from the
engine
for cleaning and checking.

H-97.
Removal and Disassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
To
remove the starting motor from the engine, dis­
connect the leads and cover the battery lead ter­

minal
with a piece of
hose
or tape to prevent short

circuiting.
Remove the flange
bolts
holding the starting motor to the flywheel housing. Remove
the starting motor from the vehicle.

Each
part of the starting motor should be removed, cleaned, and inspected for evidence of wear or
damage. The Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive should be
cleaned and inspected for evidence of wear or a distorted spring. Bearings should be checked for
proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be
free of oil and in
good
condition. The armature,
field coils, and brushes should be checked for
good
ground and lack of open circuits.

H-98.
Brushes

a.
The brushes should slide freely in their holders
and
make full contact on the commutator. Worn
brushes should be replaced.
b.
Check
brush spring tension with a spring scale.
Hook the scale under the brush spring near the 203

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
require
a slight rotation of the pinion to index it
into the ring gear. When the
engine
starts the drive
pinion
will
automatically demesh from the ring
gear and return to its normal position.
H-107. Starter Solenoid Switch (Prestolite)
•
Refer to
Figs.
H-44 and H-45.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the
starting switch contacts due to corrosion or
burn­

ing.
Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage

at the battery terminals and that at the starting 13407

FIG.
H-44—STARTER SOLENOID—HURRICANE
F4
FIG.
H-46—PRESTOLITE STARTER
AND SOLENOID—V-6 ENGINE
switch terminals. The
voltage
drop should not
exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
Should
it be impossible to file the switch contact
plates to obtain a clean
full
surface contact the
switch should be replaced.
Current
model starting switches are of the
solenoid type, mounted directly on the starting
motors.
This
type switch is energized by turning
the ignition key to the extreme right position.

Should
a solenoid switch
fail
in service it is neces­

sary
to install a new solenoid assembly,
a.
To remove the solenoid switch first remove the nut and lock washer securing the solenoid strap to the starter
post.
Then
remove nut and lock washer securing battery positive cable to solenoid
post.

Tape
end of battery cable to eliminate the pos- 207

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR
—
DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
Note:
Pinion clearance cannot be adjusted. If
clearance is not correct, motor must be disassem­
bled and checked for the above mentioned defects.

Any
defective parts must be replaced.
H-118. Starting Motor Test —
Genera!

To
obtain
full
performance data on a starting motor, or to determine the cause of abnormal
operation, the motor should be submitted to no-
load and locked armature
tests,
with equipment designed for such
tests.
A high-current variable resistance is required to obtain the specified volt­
age at the starting motor.
This
is necessary since
a
small variation in the
voltage
will
produce a
marked
difference in the current
drawn.

H-119.
Starting Motor No-Load Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter capable of
read­

ing
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC ammeter

with
maximum range of several hundred amperes,
a
high-current variable resistance, an rpm. in­

dicator,
and a fully-charged, 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal
and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid.
Con­
nect voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (positive) and motor frame (negative, ground).

Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series

between
positive terminal of battery and battery

terminal
of solenoid. Set up rpm. indicator to show starting motor speed.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to a value of
approximately .25 ohm. To complete the
circuit,

connect negative terminal of battery to motor

frame.
Adjust variable resistance to obtain a volt­ meter reading of 10.6 volts;
note
speed of starting motor and ammeter reading. Motor speed should
be
6750
to
10,500
rpm.; ammeter reading should
be 50 to 80 amperes.
c. Rated speed and current indicate normal condi­
tion of the starting motor. Low speed and high
cur­
rent
may show friction; this could be caused by
tight, dirty, or worn bearings, bent armature shaft,

or
a
loose
field
pole
shoe
dragging against the

armature.
It could also be caused by a short-cir­ cuited armature, or by grounded armature or field
coils.

d.
Failure
to operate and high current indicates

a
direct short circuit to ground at either the battery

terminal
or field coils.
e.
Failure
to operate and no current are usually
caused by broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation
between
commutator
bars,
or
some
other
condition preventing
good
contact
between
the brushes and commutator. It can also be caused by
open circuit in either the field coils or armature coils.
f. Low speed and low current show high resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty com­
mutator, or one of the conditions mentioned in e,
above.
g. High speed and high current indicates a short
circuit
in the field coils. H-120-
Locked
Armature Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter with range ap­

propriate
to read
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC
ammeter with maximum range of several hundred
amperes, a high-current variable resistance, a
clamping fixture to lock
together
the motor shaft

and
case, and a fully-charged 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid. Connect
voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (posi­
tive) and motor frame (negative, ground). Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series
between
positive terminal of battery and battery terminal
of solenoid.
Install
clamping fixture to lock motor
shaft and case
together
securely.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to approxi­
mately .05 ohm. To complete the
circuit,
connect
negative terminal of battery to motor frame. Ad­

just
variable resistance to obtain a voltmeter
read­
ing of 4.0 volts. Ammeter reading should be 280
to 320 amperes.

H-121.
Solenoid Starter Switch — Delco

The
solenoid-type switch is mounted directly on
the starting motor.
This
type of switch is energized
by turning the ignition key to the extreme right position. Should the solenoid switch
fail
in service

it
is necessary to install a new assembly.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the

starter
switch contacts due to corrosion or burning.

Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage
at the
battery across the terminals. The
voltage
drop
should not exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
In
order to remove the starter solenoid, it is neces­

sary
to remove the starter assembly.

H-122.
ELECTRICAL
INSTRUMENTS

H-123.
Fuel
Gauge —
CJ-3B

The
fuel
gauge
circuit is composed of the indicating

unit,
mounted on the instrument panel, and the
fuel tank unit, connected by a single wire through the ignition switch.

Should
the
gauge
fail
to register, check all wire con­ nections to be sure they are tight and clean; also
be sure both units are well grounded. If, after this
check, the
gauge
does
not indicate properly, remove
the wire from the tank unit and connect it to a
new tank unit which must be grounded to the tank

or
frame for
test.
Turn
the ignition switch "ON"
and
move
the float arm through its range of travel,
watching the dash unit to determine if it indicates
correctly.
If it fails to do so the trouble is probably

in
the dash unit and it should be replaced.

Should
a new tank unit be unavailable for this
test,
disconnect tank unit wire at the instrument panel

gauge.
Connect one lead of a 12 V, 1 CP
test
light
to the instrument panel unit terminal and with the
ignition switch
"ON"
ground the other lead. If the
unit is operating correctly the pointer
will
move

approximately three-quarter across the
dial.
Do not attempt to repair either unit; replacement
is the only precedure. 211