set clock JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G User Guide

REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT force-
fully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft indepen-
dently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston
damage can occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing
chains or camshaft, Failure to use Special Tool
8350 will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over
extension, requiring timing chain cover removal to
reset the tensioner ratchet.
(1) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft
sprocket V8 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
(3) Mark one link on the secondary timing chain
on both sides of the V8 mark on the camshaft
sprocket to aid in installation.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel (Located on the right side camshaft
sprocket) for any reason, Severe damage will occur
to the target wheel resulting in a vehicle no start
condition.(4) Loosen butDO NOTremove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt. Leave the bolt snug against
the sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be
secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets.
Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tension-
ers to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal
in order to reset tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest
point between the chain strands. Damage to the
tensioners may occur.
(5) Position Special Tool 8350 timing chain wedge
between the timing chain strands, tap the tool to
securely wedge the timing chain against the ten-
sioner arm and guide (Fig. 15).
NOTE: When gripping the camshaft, place the pliers
on the tube portion of the camshaft only. Do not
grip the lobes or the sprocket areas.
(6) Hold the camshaft with adjustable pliers while
removing the camshaft sprocket bolt and sprocket
(Fig. 16).
Fig. 15 Securing Timing Chain Tensioners Using Timing Chain Wedge
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8350 WEDGE
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 89
CAMSHAFT(S) - LEFT (Continued)

NOTE: All eight valve springs and valves are
removed in the same manner; this procedure only
covers one valve and valve spring.
(3) Using Special Tool C-3422±B or C-3422±C
Valve Spring Compressor and Special tool 8519
Adapter, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(4) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(5) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper
grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem
before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for
proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear
or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is
in line with the 40.69 mm (1.602 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional
measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any
springs that do not meet specifications. (Fig. 25)
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
26).
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves.
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.
(7) Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts. Tighten the bolts 9±13 N´m (100 in. lbs.) in
1¤2
turn increments in the sequence shown (Fig. 27).
(8) Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and
rocker arms (Fig. 24).
Fig. 25 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 95
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negitive cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(9) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(10) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
9).
(11) Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 11). Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
(12) Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(14) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 10).
NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(15) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear
(Fig. 11).
(16) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the cylinder head access plug (Fig.
29).
(18) Remove the right side secondary chain guide
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
9 - 98 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

²Step 2: Verify that bolts 1±10, all reached 27
N´m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step-1 without loosen-
ing the bolts. Tighten bolts 11 thru 14 to 14 N´m (10
ft. lbs.).
²Step 3: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees.
²Step 4: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees, again.
Tighten bolts 11±14, 26 N´m (19 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install the secondary chain and secondary
chain guide (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the cylinder head access plug.
(9) Re-set and install the right side secondary
chain tensioner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIM-
ING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Remove Special Tool 8515.
(11) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
(17) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Raise the vehicle.
(19) Install the exhaust pipe onto the right
exhaust manifold.
(20) Lower the vehicle.
(21) Reconnect battery negitive cable.
(22) Start the engine and check for leaks.CAMSHAFT(S) - RIGHT
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel
lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. A steel
post or nose piece is friction-welded to the steel cam-
shaft tube. Five bearing journals are machined into
the camshaft, four on the steel tube and one on the
steel nose piece. Camshaft end play is controlled by
two thrust walls that border the nose piece journal.
Engine oil enters the hollow camshafts at the third
journal and lubricates every intake lobe rocker
through a drilled passage in the intake lobe.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and
the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT force-
fully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft indepen-
dently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston
damage can occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing
chains or camshaft, Failure to use special tool 8350
will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over exten-
sion, Requiring timing chain cover removal to re-set
the tensioner ratchet.
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft
sprocket V8 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
(3) Mark one link on the secondary timing chain
on both sides of the V8 mark on the camshaft
sprocket to aid in installation.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur
to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could
cause a vehicle no start condition.
(4) Loosen butDO NOTremove the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against
sprocket.
NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be
secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets.
Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tension-
ers to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal
in order to reset tensioners.
CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest
point between the chain strands. Damage to the
tensioners may occur.
Fig. 30 Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence
9 - 100 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

(4) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(5) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper
grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem
before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for
proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear
or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is
in line with the 40.69 mm (1.602 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional
measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any
springs that do not meet specifications. (Fig. 41)
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
42).
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves.
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.
Fig. 41 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
Fig. 42 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
9 - 106 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil if level is below the SAFE ZONE on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Remove oil fill cap.
(3) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Remove oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(9) Install oil fill cap.
(10) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(11) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 93)to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with fil-
ter.
Fig. 91 Engine Oil Container Standard Notations
Fig. 92 Engine Oil Dipstick 4.7L Engine
1 - TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
2 - ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 131
OIL (Continued)

(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket
(Fig. 127).
(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
(10) Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and
idler sprocket as an assembly (Fig. 130). After guid-
ing both secondary chains through the block and cyl-
inder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap
or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on
chains to aid in installation.
NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate cam-
shafts for sprocket installation.
(11) Align left camshaft sprocket ªLº dot to plated
link on chain.
(12) Align right camshaft sprocket ªRº dot to
plated link on chain.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-
torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
Fig. 128 Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 129 Installing Secondary Timing Chains on
Idler Sprocket
1 - LOCK ARM
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4)
4 - IDLER SPROCKET
5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
Fig. 130 Installing Idler Gear, Primary and
Secondary Timing Chains
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 151
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

(14) Install air tube (or duct) at top of throttle
body.
(15) Install fuel tank cap.
(16) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
(17) Start engine and check for fuel leaks.
FUEL TANK
DESCRIPTION
The fuel tank is constructed of a plastic material.
Its main functions are for fuel storage and for place-
ment of the fuel pump module and certain ORVR
components.
OPERATION
All models pass a full 360 degree rollover test
without fuel leakage. To accomplish this, fuel and
vapor flow controls are required for all fuel tank con-
nections.
A fuel tank check valve(s) is mounted into the top
of the fuel tank (or pump module). Refer to Fuel
Tank Check Valve for additional information.
An evaporation control system is connected to the
check valve(s) to reduce emissions of fuel vapors into
the atmosphere. When fuel evaporates from the fuel
tank, vapors pass through vent hoses or tubes to a
charcoal canister where they are temporarily held.
When the engine is running, the vapors are drawn
into the intake manifold. Certain models are also
equipped with a self-diagnosing system using a Leak
Detection Pump (LDP). Refer to Emission Control
System for additional information.
Refer to ORVR for On-Board Refueling Vapor
Recovery system information.
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CON-
STANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH ENGINE OFF.
PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED BEFORE SERVIC-
ING FUEL TANK.
Two different procedures may be used to drain fuel
tank (through ORVR control valve opening at top of
fuel tank, or using DRB scan tool). The quickest is
draining through ORVR control valve opening at top
of fuel tank (Fig. 26).
As an alternative procedure, the electric fuel pump
may be activated allowing tank to be drained at fuel
rail connection. Refer to DRB scan tool for fuel pump
activation procedures. Before disconnecting fuel line
at fuel rail, release fuel pressure. Refer to the Fuel
System Pressure Release Procedure for procedures.
Attach end of Special Adapter Hose Tool number
6539 at fuel rail disconnection. Position opposite end
of 6539 to an approved gasoline draining station.Activate fuel pump with DRB and drain tank until
empty.
If electric fuel pump is not operating, tankMUST
be drained through ORVR control valve opening at
top of fuel tank (Fig. 26).
(1) Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
System Pressure Release Procedure.
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove left rear wheel/tire.
CAUTION: HANDLE EVAP, LDP AND ORVR VAPOR /
VACUUM LINES VERY CAREFULLY. THESE LINES
AND HOSES MUST BE FIRMLY CONNECTED.
CHECK THE VAPOR/VACUUM LINES AT THE LDP,
LDP FILTER, EVAP CANISTER, EVAP CANISTER
PURGE SOLENOID AND ORVR COMPONENTS FOR
DAMAGE OR LEAKS. IF A LEAK IS PRESENT, A
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) MAY BE SET.
(5) Clean top of fuel tank at ORVR control valve
(Fig. 26) or (Fig. 27).
(6) Press release tab in direction of arrow in (Fig.
27) and remove ORVR control valve lock ring
(counter-clockwise). Lift up ORVR control slightly.
Using an approved gasoline draining station, drain
tank until empty through this opening.
(7) Remove stone shield behind left/rear wheel
(Fig. 28). Drill out plastic rivets for removal.
(8) Remove 3 LDP mounting bolts (Fig. 29).
(9) Remove support bracket brace bolt (Fig. 30).
(10) Loosen, but do not remove 2 support bracket
nuts at frame rail (Fig. 29).
(11) To separate and lower front section of two-
piece support bracket, remove 3 attaching bolts on
bottom of support bracket (Fig. 30). While lowering
support bracket, disconnect LDP wiring clip (Fig. 31).
(12) Remove hose clamp (Fig. 32) and remove fuel
fill hose from fuel fill tube.
(13) Cut and discard tie wrap from axle vent hose
(Fig. 32).
(14) Disconnect fuel vent hose from fuel vent tube
(Fig. 32).
(15) Disconnect ORVR hose elbow (Fig. 33) at top
of EVAP canister.
(16) Place hydraulic jack to bottom of fuel tank.
(17) Remove fuel tank-to-rear bumper fascia clips
(Fig. 34).
(18) Remove fuel tank heat shield mounting bolts
(Fig. 35).
CAUTION: To protect fuel tank from exhaust heat,
shield must re-installed after tank installation.
WARNING: PLACE SHOP TOWEL AROUND FUEL
LINES TO CATCH ANY EXCESS FUEL.
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 19
FUEL RAIL (Continued)

REVERSE POWERFLOW
When the gear selector is moved into the
REVERSE position (Fig. 5), the front clutch and the
rear band are applied. With the application of the
front clutch, engine torque is applied to the sun gear,
turning it in a clockwise direction. The clockwise
rotation of the sun gear causes the rear planet pin-
ions to rotate against engine rotation in a counter-
clockwise direction. The rear band is holding the low
reverse drum, which is splined to the rear carrier.
Since the rear carrier is being held, the torque fromthe planet pinions is transferred to the rear annulus
gear, which is splined to the output shaft. The output
shaft in turn rotates with the annulus gear in a
counterclockwise direction giving a reverse gear out-
put. The entire transmission of torque is applied to
the rear planetary gearset only. Although there is
torque input to the front gearset through the sun
gear, no other member of the gearset is being held.
During the entire reverse stage of operation, the
front planetary gears are in an idling condition.
Fig. 5 Reverse Powerflow
1 - FRONT CLUTCH ENGAGED 5 - OUTPUT SHAFT
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT 6 - INPUT SHAFT
3 - LOW/REVERSE BAND APPLIED 7 - FRONT CLUTCH ENGAGED
4 - INPUT SHAFT 8 - LOW/REVERSE BAND APPLIED
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 7
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)

SECOND GEAR POWERFLOW
In DRIVE-SECOND (Fig. 7), the same elements
are applied as in MANUAL-SECOND. Therefore, the
power flow will be the same, and both gears will be
discussed as one in the same. In DRIVE-SECOND,
the transmission has proceeded from first gear to its
shift point, and is shifting from first gear to second.
The second gear shift is obtained by keeping the rear
clutch applied and applying the front (kickdown)
band. The front band holds the front clutch retainer
that is locked to the sun gear driving shell. With the
rear clutch still applied, the input is still on the front
annulus gear turning it clockwise at engine speed.Now that the front band is holding the sun gear sta-
tionary, the annulus rotation causes the front planets
to rotate in a clockwise direction. The front carrier is
then also made to rotate in a clockwise direction but
at a reduced speed. This will transmit the torque to
the output shaft, which is directly connected to the
front planet carrier. The rear planetary annulus gear
will also be turning because it is directly splined to
the output shaft. All power flow has occurred in the
front planetary gear set during the drive-second
stage of operation, and now the over-running clutch,
in the rear of the transmission, is disengaged and
freewheeling on its hub.
Fig. 7 Second Gear Powerflow
1 - KICKDOWN BAND APPLIED 6 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT 7 - REAR CLUTCH APPLIED
3 - REAR CLUTCH ENGAGED 8 - KICKDOWN BAND APPLIED
4 - OUTPUT SHAFT 9 - INPUT SHAFT
5 - OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH FREE-WHEELING
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 9
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)