tire pressure JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G Owner's Manual

along the left roof side rail to the rear of the vehicle.
At the rear of the vehicle, the headliner hose is
routed above the headliner and along the upper lift-
gate opening panel toward the right side of the vehi-
cle. The headliner hose then passes through a hole
with a rubber grommet in the upper liftgate opening
panel and through another hole with a rubber grom-
met into the upper inner liftgate panel to the rear
washer nozzle.
Washer hose is available for service only as roll
stock, which must then be cut to length. The head-
liner washer hose is integral to the headliner unit
and, if faulty or damaged, the headliner unit must be
replaced. The molded plastic washer hose fittings
cannot be repaired. If these fittings are faulty or
damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized
and fed by the rear washer pump/motor through the
rear washer system plumbing and fittings to the rear
washer nozzle on the liftgate outer panel above the
liftgate glass. Whenever routing the washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts; and,
sharp bends that might pinch the hose must be
avoided.
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer nozzle is a fluidic type unit that
includes an integral check valve (Fig. 3). The nozzle
is constructed of molded plastic and has a rubber
seal and integral snap features on the back of it. The
nozzle is secured by a snap fit in a dedicated mount-
ing hole in the liftgate outer panel above the liftgate
flip-up glass. Within the rear nozzle body, a small
check ball is held against an integral valve seat at
the inlet end of the nozzle by a small coiled spring.
The rear washer nozzle and check valve unit cannot
be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the
entire nozzle and check valve unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The rear washer nozzle is designed to dispense
washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the out-
side of the liftgate glass. Pressurized washer fluid is
fed to the nozzle from the washer reservoir by the
rear washer pump/motor through a single hose,
which is attached to a barbed nipple on the back of
the rear washer nozzle. The rear washer nozzle
incorporates a fluidic design, which causes the nozzle
to emit the pressurized washer fluid as an oscillating
stream to more effectively cover a larger area of the
glass area to be cleaned. The integral rear nozzle
check valve prevents washer fluid from draining out
of the rear washer supply hoses back to the washer
reservoir. This drain-back would result in a lengthy
delay from when the rear washer switch is actuated
until washer fluid was dispensed through the rear
washer nozzle, because the rear washer pump would
have to refill the rear washer plumbing from the res-
ervoir to the nozzle. The check valve also prevents
washer fluid from siphoning through the rear washer
nozzle after the rear washer system is turned Off.
When the rear washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the rear
washer plumbing, the fluid pressure overrides the
spring pressure applied to the check ball within the
valve and unseats the check ball, allowing washer
fluid to flow to the rear washer nozzle. When the
rear washer pump stops operating, spring pressure
seats the check ball in the valve and fluid flow in
either direction within the rear washer plumbing is
prevented.
REMOVAL
The check valve for the rear washer nozzle is inte-
gral to the nozzle.
(1) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry at the sides of the rear
washer nozzle to release the snap features that
secure it in the mounting hole of the liftgate outer
panel.
Fig. 3 Rear Washer Nozzle
1 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - REAR WASHER NOZZLE
4 - LIFTGATE
WJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 39
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES (Continued)

(2) Pull the rear washer nozzle out from the lift-
gate outer panel far enough to access the washer
supply hose (Fig. 4).
(3) Disconnect the washer supply hose from the
barbed nipple of the rear washer nozzle.
(4) Remove the rear washer nozzle from the lift-
gate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the rear washer nozzle to the liftgate
(Fig. 4).
(2) Reconnect the washer supply hose to the
barbed nipple of the rear washer nozzle.
(3) Insert the rear washer nozzle supply hose and
nipple into the mounting hole in the liftgate outer
panel.
(4) Using hand pressure, push firmly and evenly
on the rear washer nozzle until the snap features
lock into place on the inside of the liftgate outer
panel mounting hole.
REAR WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer pump/motor unit is located on the
outboard side and near the rear of the washer reser-
voir, between the left front inner and outer fender
panels (Fig. 5). A small permanently lubricated and
sealed electric motor is coupled to the rotor-type
washer pump. A seal flange with a large barbed inlet
nipple on the pump housing passes through a rubber
grommet seal installed in one of two dedicatedmounting holes near the bottom of the washer reser-
voir. The rear washer pump/motor unit is always
mounted in the higher pump mounting hole of the
reservoir. A smaller barbed outlet nipple on the pump
housing connects the unit to the rear washer hose.
The washer pump/motor unit is retained on the res-
ervoir by the interference fit between the barbed
pump inlet nipple and the grommet seal, which is a
light press fit. An integral electrical connector recep-
tacle is located on the top of the motor housing. The
rear washer pump/motor unit cannot be repaired. If
faulty or damaged, the entire washer pump/motor
unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The rear washer pump/motor unit is connected to
the vehicle electrical system through a single take
out and two-cavity connector of the left headlamp
and dash wire harness. The washer pump/motor is
grounded at all times through a take out of the left
headlamp and dash wire harness with a single eyelet
terminal connector that is secured under a ground
screw to the top of the left inner fender shield in the
engine compartment. The rear washer pump/motor
receives battery current on a fused ignition switch
output (run-acc) circuit through the closed contacts of
the momentary rear washer switch within the right
multi-function switch only when the switch control
stalk is pushed towards the instrument panel.
Washer fluid is gravity-fed from the washer reservoir
to the inlet side of the washer pump. When the pump
motor is energized, the rotor-type pump pressurizes
Fig. 4 Rear Washer Nozzle Remove/Install
1 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - REAR WASHER NOZZLE
4 - LIFTGATE
Fig. 5 Washer Pumps (Viewed from Bottom of
Reservoir)
1 - REAR WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
2 - FRONT WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
3 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
8R - 40 REAR WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
REAR WASHER NOZZLE (Continued)

It is not necessary to charge the tappets with
engine oil. They will charge themselves within a very
short period of engine operation.
(1) Dip each tappet in MopartEngine Oil Supple-
ment, or equivalent.
(2) Use Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installa-
tion Tool to install each tappet in the same bore from
where it was originally removed.
(3) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the push rods in their original locations.
(5) Install the rocker arms and bridge and pivot
assemblies at their original locations. Loosely install
the capscrews at each bridge.
(6) Tighten the capscrews alternately, one turn at
a time, to avoid damaging the bridges. Tighten the
capscrews to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7)
Pour the remaining MopartEngine Oil Supple-
ment, or equivalent over the entire valve actuating
assembly. The MopartEngine Oil Supplement, or equiv-
alent must remain with the engine oil for at least 1 609
km (1,000 miles). The oil supplement need not be
drained until the next scheduled oil change.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons (Fig. 55) are made of a high strength
aluminum alloy, the piston skirts are coated with a
solid lubricant (Molykote) to reduce friction and pro-
vide scuff resistance. The connecting rods are made
of cast iron.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON FITTING
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm
(.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore
gauge is not available, do not use an inside microme-
ter.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 49.5 mm (1-15/16 inches) below top of
bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to
the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point
B (Fig. 57).
(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the
piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.The
coated piston connecting rod assembly can be
used to service previous built engines and
MUST be replaced as complete sets.Tin coated
pistons should not be used as replacements for coated
pistons.
(4) The coating material is applied to the piston
after the final piston machining process. Measuring
the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro-
vide accurate results (Fig. 56). Therefore measuring
the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial
Bore Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of
reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
(5) Piston installation into the cylinder bore
requires slightly more pressure than that required
for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the
piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit
with the cylinder bore.
Fig. 55 Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Fig. 56 Moly Coated Piston
1 - MOLY COATED
2 - MOLY COATED
9 - 44 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals (except number 4 main bear-
ing journal) to the connecting rod journals. Each con-
necting rod bearing cap has a small squirt hole, oil
passes through the squirt hole and is thrown off as
the rod rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the cam-
shaft lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and
piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. Oil is provided to the cam-
shaft bearing through galleries. The front camshaft
bearing journal passes oil through the camshaft
sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to the
oil pan under the number one main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components,
then passes down through the push rod guide holes
in the cylinder head past the valve tappet area, and
returns to the oil pan (Fig. 73).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Disconnect connector and remove oil pressure
sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292 or equivalent. Start engine and record pres-
sure. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the CCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the CCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service informa-
tion procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS .
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the CCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 51
LUBRICATION (Continued)

(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
Fig. 89 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 129
LUBRICATION (Continued)

OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the timing chains and tensioners
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the four bolts, primary timing chain
tensioner and the oil pump.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove oil pump cover screws and lift off cover
plate.
(2) Remove pump inner and outer rotors.
NOTE: Once the oil pressure relief valve, cup plug,
and pin are removed, the pump assembly must be
replaced.
(3) If it is necessary to remove the pressure relief
valve, drive the roll pin from pump housing and
remove cup plug, spring and valve.
CLEANING
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and
spring should not be removed from the oil pump. If
these components are disassembled and or
removed from the pump the entire oil pump assem-
bly must be replaced.
(1) Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of
the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump
cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly
should be replaced.
(2) Lay a straight edge across the pump cover sur-
face (Fig. 97). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge
can be inserted between the cover and the straight
edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
(3) Measure the thickness of the outer rotor (Fig.
98). If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.(4) Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the
outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382
in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
(5) Measure the thickness of the inner rotor (Fig.
99). If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly
must be replaced.
(6) Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump.
Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and
the body (Fig. 100). If the measurement is 0.235mm
(0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(7) Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump
body. Measure the clearance between the inner and
outer rotors (Fig. 101). If the clearance between the
rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump
assembly must be replaced.
(8) Place a straight edge across the body of the oil
pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of
.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted
between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump
must be replaced (Fig. 102).
NOTE: The 4.7 Oil pump is released as an assem-
bly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for
Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil
pump is not functioning or out of specification it
must be replaced as an assembly.
Fig. 97 Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
9 - 134 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ

(e) Use DRB scan tool to power fuel pump. If
pressure is now within specifications, replace fuel
filter/fuel pressure regulator.
(f) If pressure is still low, replace fuel pump
module.
(4) If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi, electric
fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defec-
tive. Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator.
(5) Install test port cap to fuel rail test port.
FUEL PUMP MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pump module is installed in the top of the
fuel tank (Fig. 16). The fuel pump module (Fig. 17)
contains the following components:
²A separate fuel pick-up filter (strainer)
²An electric fuel pump
²A threaded locknut to retain module to tank
²A gasket between tank flange and module
²Fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor)²Fuel supply tube (line) connection
²Fuel return tube (line) connection
The fuel gauge sending unit and pick-up filter may
be serviced separately. If the electrical fuel pump
requires service, the entire fuel pump module must
be replaced.
OPERATION
Refer to Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Reg-
ulator and Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
REMOVAL
Fuel tank removal will be necessary for fuel pump
module removal.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CON-
STANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF).
BEFORE SERVICING FUEL PUMP MODULE, FUEL
SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED.
(1) Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Proce-
dure.
Fig. 16 FUEL TANK AND COMPONENTS
1 - FUEL PUMP MODULE 9 - TANK SUPPORT BRACKET (SMALL/FRONT)
2 - MODULE LOCK RING 10 - MODULE PIGTAIL HARNESS
3 - TANK SUPPORT BRACKETS (REAR) 11 - FUEL SUPPLY (PRESSURE) LINE
4 - CHECK VALVE 12 - FUEL RETURN LINE
5 - FUEL FILL HOSE 13 - SKID PLATE
6 - ORVR COMPONENTS 14 - TANK STRAPS (2)
7 - ORVR CONTROL VALVE 15 - FUEL TANK
8 - CONTROL VALVE LOCK RING
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 13
FUEL PUMP (Continued)

(14) Install air tube (or duct) at top of throttle
body.
(15) Install fuel tank cap.
(16) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
(17) Start engine and check for fuel leaks.
FUEL TANK
DESCRIPTION
The fuel tank is constructed of a plastic material.
Its main functions are for fuel storage and for place-
ment of the fuel pump module and certain ORVR
components.
OPERATION
All models pass a full 360 degree rollover test
without fuel leakage. To accomplish this, fuel and
vapor flow controls are required for all fuel tank con-
nections.
A fuel tank check valve(s) is mounted into the top
of the fuel tank (or pump module). Refer to Fuel
Tank Check Valve for additional information.
An evaporation control system is connected to the
check valve(s) to reduce emissions of fuel vapors into
the atmosphere. When fuel evaporates from the fuel
tank, vapors pass through vent hoses or tubes to a
charcoal canister where they are temporarily held.
When the engine is running, the vapors are drawn
into the intake manifold. Certain models are also
equipped with a self-diagnosing system using a Leak
Detection Pump (LDP). Refer to Emission Control
System for additional information.
Refer to ORVR for On-Board Refueling Vapor
Recovery system information.
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CON-
STANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH ENGINE OFF.
PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED BEFORE SERVIC-
ING FUEL TANK.
Two different procedures may be used to drain fuel
tank (through ORVR control valve opening at top of
fuel tank, or using DRB scan tool). The quickest is
draining through ORVR control valve opening at top
of fuel tank (Fig. 26).
As an alternative procedure, the electric fuel pump
may be activated allowing tank to be drained at fuel
rail connection. Refer to DRB scan tool for fuel pump
activation procedures. Before disconnecting fuel line
at fuel rail, release fuel pressure. Refer to the Fuel
System Pressure Release Procedure for procedures.
Attach end of Special Adapter Hose Tool number
6539 at fuel rail disconnection. Position opposite end
of 6539 to an approved gasoline draining station.Activate fuel pump with DRB and drain tank until
empty.
If electric fuel pump is not operating, tankMUST
be drained through ORVR control valve opening at
top of fuel tank (Fig. 26).
(1) Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
System Pressure Release Procedure.
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove left rear wheel/tire.
CAUTION: HANDLE EVAP, LDP AND ORVR VAPOR /
VACUUM LINES VERY CAREFULLY. THESE LINES
AND HOSES MUST BE FIRMLY CONNECTED.
CHECK THE VAPOR/VACUUM LINES AT THE LDP,
LDP FILTER, EVAP CANISTER, EVAP CANISTER
PURGE SOLENOID AND ORVR COMPONENTS FOR
DAMAGE OR LEAKS. IF A LEAK IS PRESENT, A
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) MAY BE SET.
(5) Clean top of fuel tank at ORVR control valve
(Fig. 26) or (Fig. 27).
(6) Press release tab in direction of arrow in (Fig.
27) and remove ORVR control valve lock ring
(counter-clockwise). Lift up ORVR control slightly.
Using an approved gasoline draining station, drain
tank until empty through this opening.
(7) Remove stone shield behind left/rear wheel
(Fig. 28). Drill out plastic rivets for removal.
(8) Remove 3 LDP mounting bolts (Fig. 29).
(9) Remove support bracket brace bolt (Fig. 30).
(10) Loosen, but do not remove 2 support bracket
nuts at frame rail (Fig. 29).
(11) To separate and lower front section of two-
piece support bracket, remove 3 attaching bolts on
bottom of support bracket (Fig. 30). While lowering
support bracket, disconnect LDP wiring clip (Fig. 31).
(12) Remove hose clamp (Fig. 32) and remove fuel
fill hose from fuel fill tube.
(13) Cut and discard tie wrap from axle vent hose
(Fig. 32).
(14) Disconnect fuel vent hose from fuel vent tube
(Fig. 32).
(15) Disconnect ORVR hose elbow (Fig. 33) at top
of EVAP canister.
(16) Place hydraulic jack to bottom of fuel tank.
(17) Remove fuel tank-to-rear bumper fascia clips
(Fig. 34).
(18) Remove fuel tank heat shield mounting bolts
(Fig. 35).
CAUTION: To protect fuel tank from exhaust heat,
shield must re-installed after tank installation.
WARNING: PLACE SHOP TOWEL AROUND FUEL
LINES TO CATCH ANY EXCESS FUEL.
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 19
FUEL RAIL (Continued)

(19) Disconnect fuel return line at fuel filter/fuel
pressure regulator (Fig. 36). Refer to Quick-Connect
Fittings for procedures.
(20) Disconnect fuel pressure line at fuel filter/fuel
pressure regulator (Fig. 36). Refer to Quick-Connect
Fittings for procedures.
(21) Disconnect EVAP canister vent line near front
of tank (Fig. 36).
(22) Disconnect fuel pump module electrical con-
nector (pigtail harness) near front of tank (Fig. 36).
Harness connector is clipped to body.
(23) Remove left / front tank support bracket bolt
at frame (Fig. 37).
(24)WITHOUT TRAILER HITCH:Remove tank-
to-frame mounting bolts (Fig. 39). Remove rear tank
support bracket bolts at frame (Fig. 38). Carefully
lower tank until clear of vehicle. Place tank on floor.
(25)WITH TRAILER HITCH:Remove tank /
hitch mounting bolts (Fig. 40). Carefully lower tank
until clear of vehicle. Place tank on floor.
(26) If necessary, separate skid plate from fuel
tank by removing 2 fuel tank strap nuts (Fig. 39) and
remove 2 tank straps.
(27) If fuel pump module removal is necessary,
refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation.
(28) If hoses are to be removed at fuel tank end,
note painted alignment (indexing) markings on
hoses, and molded indexing tangs on tank before
removal. Remove hoses.
(29) If necessary, remove 3 fuel filler tube assem-
bly mounting bolts (Fig. 41) and remove fuel filler
tube.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: HANDLE EVAP, LDP AND ORVR VAPOR /
VACUUM LINES VERY CAREFULLY. THESE LINES
AND HOSES MUST BE FIRMLY CONNECTED.
CHECK THE VAPOR/VACUUM LINES AT THE LDP,
LDP FILTER, EVAP CANISTER, EVAP CANISTER
PURGE SOLENOID AND ORVR COMPONENTS FOR
DAMAGE OR LEAKS. IF A LEAK IS PRESENT, A
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) MAY BE SET.
(1) If necessary, position fuel filler tube assembly
to body. Install 3 bolts and tighten to 2 N´m (15 in.
lbs.) torque.
(2) If necessary, connect quick-connect fittings to
fuel pump module.
(3) If fuel pump module is being installed, refer to
Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation.
(4) Install fuel fill/vent hoses to tank fittings. To
prevent hoses from kinking, rotate each hose until
painted indexing mark on hose is aligned to molded
indexing tang on tank.
(5) Install hose clamps to hoses. Refer to Torque
Specifications.(6) If necessary, position fuel tank into skid plate.
Install 2 tank straps and 2 strap nuts (Fig. 39). Refer
to Torque Specifications.
(7) Position fuel tank / skid plate assembly to
hydraulic jack.
(8) Raise tank into position to frame.
(9)WITH TRAILER HITCH:Position trailer
hitch and tow hooks (Fig. 40) to bottom of fuel tank.
Install bolts and nuts loosely.
(10)WITHOUT TRAILER HITCH:Install 2 rear
tank support brackets and bolts (Fig. 38). Install
tank-to-frame bolts. Do not tighten bolts / nuts at
this time.
(11) Install 1 left / front tank support bracket and
bolts / nuts (Fig. 37). Do not tighten bolts / nuts at
this time.
(12) Be sure fuel tank is properly aligned to frame
and body. Tighten all tank, tow hook and trailer
hitch bolts / nuts except for 3 support brackets.
Tighten all 3 (2 rear and 1 left / front) support
bracket bolts / nuts last. Refer to Torque Specifica-
tions.
(13)
(14) Connect fuel pump module pigtail harness
electrical connector near front of tank.
(15) Connect both fuel lines to fuel filter/fuel pres-
sure regulator. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings for
procedures.
(16) Connect EVAP hose near front of tank.
(17) Position rear axle vent hose and install new
tie strap (Fig. 32).
(18) Install heat shield nuts / bolts (Fig. 35). Refer
to Torque Specifications.
(19) Connect ORVR hose elbow (Fig. 33) to top of
EVAP canister.
(20) Connect fuel vent hose to fuel vent tube (Fig.
32).
(21) Install fuel fill hose and clamp to fuel fill tube
(Fig. 32).
(22) Install 3 LDP mounting bolts (Fig. 29).
(23) While raising support bracket, connect LDP
wiring clip (Fig. 31). Install front section of two-piece
support bracket to rear section with 3 attaching bolts
located on bottom of support bracket (Fig. 30).
(24) Install support bracket brace bolt (Fig. 30).
(25) Tighten 2 support bracket nuts at frame rail
(Fig. 29).
(26) Install fuel tank-to-rear bumper fascia clips
(Fig. 34).
(27) Using new plastic rivets, install stone shield
behind left/rear wheel (Fig. 28).
(28) Install left rear wheel/tire.
(29) Lower vehicle and connect negative battery
cable to battery.
(30) Fill tank with fuel and check for leaks.
14 - 20 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
FUEL TANK (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING SYSTEM
STEERING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill parking. Or when the steering wheel is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar
to that of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing
through an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Replace steering gear.
RATTLE OR CLUNK 1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components/track bar.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Loose or damaged steering linkage. 3. Inspect and repair steering
linkage.
4. Internal gear noise. 4. Replace gear.
5. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.5. Reposition hose.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
2. Belt routing. 2. Verify belt routing is correct.
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
4. Air in the system. 4. Perform pump initial operation.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
2. Wrong gear. 2. Verify gear.
19 - 2 STEERINGWJ
STEERING (Continued)