steering JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G User Guide

BUSHINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the upper suspension arm from axle.
(2) Position Spacer 8279 over the axle bushing on
a 4x2 vehicle and right side on a 4x4 vehicle.
(3) Place Receiver 7932-1 over flanged end of the
bushing. (Fig. 2).
(4) Place small end of Remover/Install 7932-2
against other side of the bushing.
(5) Install bolt 7604 through remover, bushing and
receiver.
(6) Install Long Nut 7603 and tighten nut too pull
bushing out of the axle bracket.
(7) Remove nut, bolt, receiver, remover and bush-
ing.
NOTE: On 4x2 vehicle and right side of 4x4 vehicle,
leave Spacer 8279 in position for bushing installa-
tion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place Receiver 7932-1on the other side of the
axle bracket.
(2) Position new bushing up to the axle bracket.,
and large end of Remover/Install 7932-2 against the
bushing (Fig. 3).
(3) Install bolt 7604 through receiver, bushing and
installer.
(4) Install Long Nut 7603 and tighten nut to draw
the bushing into the axle bracket.(5) Remove tools and install the upper suspension
arm.
HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The bearing used on the front hub of this vehicle is
the combined hub and bearing unit type assembly.
This unit assembly combines the front wheel mount-
ing hub (flange) and the front wheel bearing into a
one piece unit. The wheel mounting studs are the
only replaceable component of the hub/bearing
assembly.
OPERATION
The hub/bearing assembly is mounted to the steer-
ing knuckle and is retained by three mounting bolts
accessible from the back of the steering knuckle. The
hub/bearing unit is not serviceable and must be
replaced as an assembly if the bearing or the hub is
determined to be defective.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the brake caliper, caliper anchor, rotor
and ABS wheel speed sensor,(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
ELECTRICAL/FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and axle
hub nut.
(5) Remove the hub bearing mounting bolts from
the back of the steering knuckle. Remove hub bear-
Fig. 2 Bushing Removal
1 - RECEIVER
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BOLT
4 - REMOVER/INSTALLER
5 - LONG NUT
Fig. 3 Bushing Installation
1 - REMOVER/INSTALLER
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BOLT
4 - RECEIVER
5 - LONG NUT
WJFRONT 2 - 9

ing (Fig. 4) from the steering knuckle and off the
axle shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hub bearing to the knuckle.
(2) Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and
tighten to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the
hub nut to 237 N´m (175 ft. lbs.). Install the nut
retainer and a new cotter pin.
(4) Install the brake rotor, caliper anchor, caliper
and ABS wheel speed sensor,(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
ELECTRICAL/FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
KNUCKLE
DESCRIPTION
The knuckle is a single casting with legs machined
for the upper and lower ball joints. The knuckle also
has machined mounting locations for the front brake
calipers and hub bearing.
OPERATION
The steering knuckle pivot between the upper and
lower ball joint. Steering linkage attached to the
knuckle allows the vehicle to be steered.
REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE
Ball stud service procedures below require removal
of the hub bearing and axle shaft. Removal andinstallation of upper and lower ball studs require the
use of Tool Kit 6289.
(1) Remove hub bearing and axle shaft.
(2) Disconnect the tie-rod or drag link from the
steering knuckle arm,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - REMOVAL) .
(3) Remove the cotter pins from the upper and
lower ball studs.
(4) Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen knuckle from the ball studs. Remove
knuckle from ball studs (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten the bottom retaining nut to
109 N´m (80 ft. lbs.) torque. Install new cotter pin.
(3) Install and tighten the top retaining nut to 101
N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque. Install new cotter pin.
(4) Install the hub bearing and axle shaft.
(5) Connect the tie-rod or drag link end to the
steering knuckle arm.,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - INSTALLATION) .
Fig. 4 Hub Bearing & Knuckle
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - KNUCKLE
Fig. 5 Steering Knuckle Removal/Installation
1 - AXLE YOKE
2 - UPPER BALL STUD
3 - LOWER BALL STUD
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - 10 FRONTWJ
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

FRONT TUBE AXLE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT TUBE AXLE
REMOVAL.............................14INSTALLATION.........................14
FRONT TUBE AXLE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lifting device under the axle and
secure axle to lift.
(3) Remove the wheels and tires.
(4) Remove the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL)
and calipers.
(5) Disconnect wheel sensor wiring harness from
the vehicle wiring harness.
(6) Remove stabilizer bar links at the axle.
(7) Remove shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(8) Removet track bar.
(9) Remove tie rod and drag link from the steering
knuckle.
(10) Remove steering damper from the axle
bracket.
(11) Remove upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle brackets.
(12) Lower the lift enough to remove the axle. The
coil springs will drop with the axle.
(13) Remove the coil springs from the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners are tightened. If not at their nor-mal ride position, ride height and handling could be
affected.
(1) Install springs and retainer clips and tighten
retainer bolts to 21 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(2) Lift and position axle under the vehicle and
align it with the spring pads.
(3) Position upper and lower suspension arms in
the axle brackets and loosely install bolts and nuts.
(4) Install track bar to the axle bracket and loosely
install bolt.
(5) Install shock absorbers and tighten bolts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install stabilizer bar links to the axle brackets
and tighten nuts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles.
(8) Install steering damper to the axle bracket and
tighten nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the brake rotors and calipers.
(10) Connect wheel speed sensor wiring harness, if
equipped.
(11) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Remove lift from the axle and lower the vehi-
cle.
(13) Tighten upper suspension arm nuts to 75 N´m
(55 ft. lbs.). Tighten lower suspension arm nuts to
115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(14) Tighten track bar bolt at the axle bracket to
100 N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(15) Check the front wheel alignment.
3 - 14 FRONT TUBE AXLEWJ

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
VARI-LOKT
(1) Park the vehicle on a level surface or raise
vehicle on hoist so that the vehicle is level.
(2) Remove the axle fill plug.
(3) Verify that the axle fluid level is correct. The
fluid level is correct if the fluid is level with the bot-
tom of the fill hole.
(4) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD full-time
position.
(5) Drive the vehicle in a tight circle for 2 minutes
at 5mph to fully prime the pump.
(6) Block the tires opposite the axle to be tested to
prevent the vehicle from moving.
(7) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD Low posi-
tion and the transmission into the Park position.
(8) Raise both the wheels of the axle to be tested
off of the ground.
(9) Rotate the left wheel by hand at a minimum of
one revolution per second while an assistant rotates
the right wheel in the opposite direction.
(10) The left wheel should spin freely at first and
then increase in resistance within 5 revolutions until
the wheels cannot be continuously rotated in opposite
directions.
(11) The Vari-loktdifferential has engaged prop-
erly if the wheels cannot be rotated in opposite direc-
tions for a moment. After the wheels stop rotating for
a moment, the fluid pressure will drop in the differ-
ential and the wheels begin to rotate once again.
(12) If the system does not operate properly,
replace the Vari-loktdifferential.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the
axle.
(3) Secure axle to lift.
(4) Remove the wheels and tires.
(5) Remove the brake calipers and rotors (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS
- REMOVAL) from the axle.
(6) Disconnect the wheel sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness.
(7) Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft
tube.
(8) Mark propeller shaft and yoke/pinion flange for
installation alignment reference.
(9) Remove propeller shaft.
(10) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle.
(11) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brack-
ets.
(12) Disconnect track bar.
(13) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckle.
(14) Disconnect the steering damper from the axle
bracket.
(15) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle brackets.
(16) Lower the lifting device enough to remove the
axle. The coil springs will drop with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle.
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FBIWJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners can be tightened. If springs are
not at their normal ride position, ride height and
handling could be affected.
(1) Install the springs and retainer clips. Tighten
the retainer bolts to 21 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(2) Support the axle on a lifting device and posi-
tion axle under the vehicle.
(3) Raise the axle and align it with the spring
pads.
(4) Position the upper and lower suspension arms
in the axle brackets. Loosely install bolts and nuts to
hold suspension arms to the axle brackets.
(5) Install vent hose to the axle shaft tube.
(6) Install track bar in the axle bracket and install
the bolt loosely.
(7) Install shock absorbers and tighten the bolts to
23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install stabilizer bar links to the axle brackets
and tighten the nuts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles.
(10) Install steering damper to the axle bracket
and tighten the nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION) and calipers.
(12) Connect the wheel speed sensor wiring har-
ness to the vehicle wiring harness.
(13) Align the previously made marks on the pro-
peller shaft and the yoke/pinion flange.
(14) Install propeller shaft to pinion flange bolts ,
if equipped.
(15) Install propeller shaft to yoke straps and
bolts, if equipped.
(16) Check and fill axle lubricant.
(17) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(18) Remove the lifting device from the axle and
lower the vehicle.
(19) Tighten the upper suspension arm nuts to 75
N´m (55 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower suspension arm
nuts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(20) Tighten the track bar bolt at the axle bracket
to 100 N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(21) Check the front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched onto each gear (Fig. 3). A plus
(+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is etched
into the face of the pinion gear. This number is theamount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies
from the standard depth setting of a pinion etched
with a (0). The standard setting from the center line
of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion is 92.1
mm (3.625 in.). The standard depth provides the best
gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to Backlash and
Contact Pattern Analysis paragraph in this section
for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/oil slinger. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - DRIVE PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 4 ADJUSTMENT SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION DEPTH SHIM/OIL SLINGER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
3 - RING GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
5 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
WJFRONT AXLE - 186FBI 3 - 21
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ

rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder with
reservoir, caliper seals, HCU and all hydraulic fluid
hoses.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove reservoir cap and remove fluid with a
cleansuction gun.
(2) Remove the wire connector from the brake fluid
level sensor.
(3) Insert the tool (Fig. 47) provided with the res-
ervoir to release the reservoir retaining tabs.
(4) Pull the reservoir straight up out of the cylin-
der.
(5) Remove and discard grommets from the cylin-
der body.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake
fluid. Install new grommets into the cylinder body.
CAUTION: Do not use tools to install the grommets.
Tools may cut, or tear the grommets. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.(2) Start reservoir in grommets then press the res-
ervoir straight down to seat the reservoir into the
cylinder grommets.
CAUTION: Do not rock the reservoir during installa-
tion.
(3) Verify retaining tabs are seated.
(4) Install the wire connector to the brake fluid
level sensor.
(5) Fill master cylinder.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder body is made of aluminum
and contains a primary and secondary piston assem-
bly. The cylinder body including the piston assem-
blies are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an
internal problem with the cylinder body, it must be
replaced as an assembly. The master cylinder has a
removable reservoir and fluid level indicator. The res-
ervoir, reservoir grommets, reservoir cap and fluid
level switch are the only replaceable parts on the
master cylinder.
Fig. 47 Release Tool
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - RELEASE TOOL
3 - RETAINING TABS
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
FLUID (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING PROCEDURE
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise with brass jaws.
(2) Attach bleed tubes to cylinder outlet ports.
Then position each tube end into the bottom of the
reservoir (Fig. 50).
(3) Fill reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
(4) Press cylinder pistons inward with wood dowel.
Then release pistons and allow them to return under
spring pressure. Continue bleeding operations until
air bubbles are no longer visible in fluid.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wire connector from the brake fluid
level sensor.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove nuts that attach master cylinder to
booster studs (Fig. 51).
(4) Remove master cylinder from booster.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Bleed new master cylinder on bench before
installation, refer to Service Procedures.
(1) Have an assistant depress the brake pedal
while guiding the master cylinder on the booster rod
and mounting studs.
CAUTION: Do not depress brake pedal too hard and
ensure the booster rod is in the master cylinder pis-
ton or booster/master cylinder damage will occur.(2) Install master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten nuts to 25 N´m (18 lb. lbs.).
NOTE: Use original or factory replacement nuts only.
(3) Install brake lines and tighten to 16 N´m (144
in. lbs.).
(4) Install fluid level sensor connector.
(5) Fill and bleed brake system.
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - STANDARD PEDAL
A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal
pivots on a shaft mounted in the pedal support
bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash panel.
The brake pedal assembly and pedal pad are the
only serviceable component.
DESCRIPTION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
The Adjustable Pedals System (APS) is designed to
enable the fore and aft repositioning of the brake and
accelerator pedals. This results in improved ergonom-
ics in relation to the steering wheel for taller and
shorter drivers. Being able to adjust the pedal posi-
Fig. 50 Master Cylinder Bleeding
1 - BLEEDING TUBES
2 - RESERVOIR
Fig. 51 Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - SENSOR CONNECTOR
3 - MOUNTING NUT
4 - BRAKE LINES
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)