Front vibration JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT......................1
FRONT TUBE AXLE......................14
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI....................15REAR AXLE - 198RBI.....................50
REAR AXLE - 226RBA....................90
PROPELLER SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................1
STANDARD PROCEDURES................3
SPECIFICATIONS........................5
SPECIAL TOOLS........................5
PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................6
PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT 4.7L
REMOVAL.............................6INSTALLATION..........................7
PROPELLER SHAFT - REAR
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................7
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY..........................8
ASSEMBLY.............................9
DOUBLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY..........................9
ASSEMBLY............................10
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
VIBRATION
Tires that are out-of-round, or wheels that are
unbalanced, will cause a low frequency vibration.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Brake rotors that are unbalanced will cause a
harsh, low frequency vibration. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)Driveline vibration can also result from loose or
damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle
speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a
specific speed range is not usually caused by a pro-
peller shaft being unbalanced. Defective universal
joints, or an incorrect propeller shaft angle, are usu-
ally the cause of such a vibration.
WJDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1

(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/4 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint, and undercoating
from the propeller shaft surface where the dial indi-
cator will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES
This procedure applies to both the front propeller
shafts and the rear propeller shaft. To obtain the
front (output) angle on the C/V front propeller shaft,
the inclinometer is placed on the machined ring of
the pinion flange. To obtain the propeller shaft angle
measurement on the C/V front propeller shaft, the
inclinometer is placed on the propeller shaft tube.
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as
level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller
shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings from
universal joint if equipped, so the inclinometer base
will sits flat.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMP SCREWS
Fig. 3 CLAMP SCREWS SEPARATED
1 - ó INCH
WJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front±end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
WJFRONT AXLE - 186FBI 3 - 17
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 52 REAR AXLE - 198RBIWJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

and therefore creates pressure in the pump. The tun-
ing of the front and rear axle orifices and valves
inside the gerotor pump is unique and each system
includes a torque-limiting pressure relief valve to
protect the clutch pack, which also facilitates vehicle
control under extreme side-to-side traction varia-
tions. The resulting pressure is applied to the clutch
pack and the transfer of torque is completed.
Under conditions in which opposite wheels are on
surfaces with widely different friction characteristics,
Vari-loktdelivers far more torque to the wheel on
the higher traction surface than do conventional
Trac-loktsystems. Because conventional Trac-lokt
differentials are initially pre-loaded to assure torque
transfer, normal driving (where inner and outer
wheel speeds differ during cornering, etc.) produces
torque transfer during even slight side-to-side speed
variations. Since these devices rely on friction from
this preload to transfer torque, normal use tends to
cause wear that reduces the ability of the differential
to transfer torque over time. By design, the Vari-lokt
system is less subject to wear, remaining more con-
sistent over time in its ability to transfer torque. The
coupling assembly is serviced as a unit. From a ser-
vice standpoint the coupling also benefits from using
the same lubricant supply as the ring and pinion
gears.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3 - 92 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)

INSTALLATION.........................23
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................24
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........24
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING PROCEDURE......25
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - STANDARD PEDAL.......25
DESCRIPTION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS....25
OPERATION...........................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL....26
REMOVAL - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS........27
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL . 28
INSTALLATION - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS....28
PEDAL MOTOR
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT DISC
BRAKE ROTOR.......................31DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DISC
BRAKE ROTOR.......................32
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC ROTOR
MACHINING..........................33
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE ROTOR . . 33
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR . . . 33
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................34
PARKING BRAKE
OPERATION...........................34
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PARKING BRAKE . 34
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................35
REMOVAL - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES............................36
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................37
INSTALLATION - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES............................37
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
ADJUSTMENTS - PARKING BRAKE SHOE....40
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION
Dual piston disc brake calipers are used on the
front. Single piston disc brake calipers are used on
the rear. Ventilated disc brake rotors are used on the
front and solid rotors are used on the rear.
Power brake assist is supplied by a vacuum oper-
ated, dual diaphragm power brake booster. The mas-
ter cylinder used for all applications has an
aluminum body and nylon reservoir with single filler
cap. A fluid level indicator is mounted to the side of
the reservoir.
The braking force of the rear wheels is controlled
by electronic brake distribution (EBD). The EBD
functions like a rear proportioning valve. The EBD
system uses the ABS system to control the slip of the
rear wheels in partial braking range. The braking
force of the rear wheels is controlled electronically by
using the inlet and outlet valves located in the HCU.
Factory installed brake linings on all models con-
sists of organic base material combined with metallic
particles.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, rear park brake drums/rotors, front brake
rotors, brake lines, master cylinder, booster, HCU
and parking brake shoes.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, electrical
or vacuum operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEWJ

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH
- 4.0L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Engines equipped with serpentine drive
belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous fan
drives. They are marked with the word REVERSE to
designate their usage. Installation of the wrong fan
or viscous fan drive can result in engine overheat-
ing.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 27) is a sili-
cone-fluid-filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to the water pump shaft. The coupling allows
the fan to be driven in a normal manner. This is
done at low engine speeds while limiting the top
speed of the fan to a predetermined maximum level
at higher engine speeds.
An electrical cooling fan located in the fan shroud
aids in low speed cooling, It is designed to augment
the viscous fan, However, it does not replace the vis-
cous fan.
OPERATION
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (Fig. 27).
This spring coil reacts to the temperature of the radi-
ator discharge air. It engages the viscous fan drive
for higher fan speed if the air temperature from the
radiator rises above a certain point. Until additional
engine cooling is necessary,the fan will remain at
a reduced rpm regardless of engine speed. Nor-
mally less than three hundred (300) rpm.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the
bimetallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.
Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again
reacts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous
disengaged speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐVISCOUS FAN
DRIVE
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE
FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the
top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem
(or equivalent). It should have a range of -18É to
105ÉC (0É to 220É F). Insert thermometer through the
hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate
clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition
timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe
light).
(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure
a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air con-
ditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the
plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.
(5) Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped) is
turned off.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Fig. 27 Viscous Fan Drive
1 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
2 - THERMOSTATIC SPRING
3 - MOUNTING NUT TO WATER PUMP HUB
7 - 40 ENGINEWJ

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
HORN SOUNDS
CONTINUOUSLY1. Faulty horn relay. 1. Refer to Horn Relay for the proper horn relay
diagnosis and testing procedures. Replace the
horn relay or repair the shorted horn relay control
circuit, if required.
2. Faulty horn switch. 2. Refer to Horn Switch for the proper horn switch
diagnosis and testing procedures. Replace the
horn switch or repair the shorted horn switch
circuit, if required.
HORN
DESCRIPTION
The dual electromagnetic diaphragm-type horns
are standard equipment on this model. Both horns
are secured to a mounting bracket. The mounting
bracket is secured with a screw to the back side of
the right extension of the radiator closure assembly,
just ahead of the right front wheel house and below
the front wheel house extension. The two horns are
connected in parallel. Each horn is grounded through
its wire harness connector and circuit to an eyelet
secured to the right inner fender shield near the bat-
tery, and receives battery feed through the closed
contacts of the horn relay.
The horns cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if
faulty or damaged, they must be individually
replaced.
OPERATION
Within the two halves of the molded plastic horn
housing are a flexible diaphragm, a plunger, an elec-
tromagnetic coil and a set of contact points. The dia-
phragm is secured in suspension around its
perimeter by the mating surfaces of the horn hous-
ing. The plunger is secured to the center of the dia-
phragm and extends into the center of the
electromagnet. The contact points control the current
flow through the electromagnet.
When the horn is energized, electrical current
flows through the closed contact points to the electro-
magnet. The resulting electromagnetic field draws
the plunger and diaphragm toward it until that
movement mechanically opens the contact points.
When the contact points open, the electromagnetic
field collapses allowing the plunger and diaphragm to
return to their relaxed positions and closing the con-
tact points again. This cycle continues repeating at a
very rapid rate producing the vibration and move-
ment of air that creates the sound that is directed
through the horn outlet.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN
Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The
wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper
wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire
harness routing and retention, connector pin-out
information and location views for the various wire
harness connectors, splices and grounds.
(1) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s). Measure the resis-
tance between the ground circuit cavity of the horn(s)
wire harness connector(s) and a good ground. There
should be no measurable resistance. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the horn relay out-
put circuit cavity of the horn(s) wire harness connec-
tor(s). There should be zero volts. If OK, go to Step 3.
If not OK, repair the shorted horn relay output cir-
cuit or replace the faulty horn relay as required.
(3) Depress the horn switch. There should now be
battery voltage at the horn relay output circuit cavity
of the horn(s) wire harness connector(s). If OK,
replace the faulty horns. If not OK, repair the open
horn relay output circuit to the horn relay as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the lower front half of the inner liner
from the right front fender wheel house. (Refer to 23
- BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT FENDER - REMOVAL).
(4) Reach through the front of the right front
fender wheel house opening to access and disconnect
the two right headlamp and dash wire harness con-
nectors from the horn connector receptacles (Fig. 1).
Be certain to disengage the connector lock tabs
before disconnecting them from the horn connector
receptacles.
(5) Remove the screw that secures the horn
mounting bracket to the right extension of the radi-
ator closure assembly.
WJHORN 8H - 3
HORN SYSTEM (Continued)

(6) While pulling assembly from engine, note direc-
tion and position of pulse ring (Fig. 6). After removal,
look down into top of oil pump and note direction and
position of slot at top of oil pump gear.
(7) Remove and discard old oil pump drive-to-en-
gine block gasket.
REMOVAL - 4.7L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.7L
V±8 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cyl-
inder head (Fig. 10).
It is easier to remove/install sensor from under
vehicle.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor
(Fig. 10).
(3) Remove sensor mounting bolt (Fig. 10).
(4) Carefully pry sensor from cylinder head in a
rocking action with two small screwdrivers.Some
4.7L engines are equipped with a sensor spacer
shim. If equipped, this shim will be located at
sensor bolt hole between cylinder head and
sensor mounting tang (TSB W08±18±00). Save
this shim for sensor installation.
(5) Check condition of sensor o-ring.
Fig. 7 CMP Location - 4.0L Engine
1 - OIL FILTER
2 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
3 - CLAMP BOLT
4 - HOLD-DOWN CLAMP
5 - MOUNTING BOLTS (2)
6 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
Fig. 8 CMP Pulse Ring Alignment - 4.0L Engine
1 - PULSE RING (SHUTTER)
2 - TOOTHPICK
3 - SENSOR BASE (OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT ASSEMBLY)
Fig. 9 Align Timing Marks - 4.0L Engine
1 - CRANKSHAFT VIBRATION DAMPER TIMING MARK
WJIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 7
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (Continued)