tire pressure JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G User Guide

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always use the correct bulb size and
type for replacement. An incorrect bulb size or type
may overheat and cause damage to the lamp, the
socket and/or the lamp wiring.
NORTH AMERICA
(1) Align the base of the bulb with the receptacle
in the license plate lamp unit socket.
(2) Push the bulb straight into the license plate
lamp unit socket until it is firmly seated.
(3) Reach through the opening in the rear bumper
fascia between the license plate and the lamp to
align the socket and bulb with the socket opening on
the back of the lamp unit housing (Fig. 45).
(4) Push the socket and bulb straight into the
license plate lamp unit housing until it is firmly
seated.
(5) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
REST-OF-WORLD
(1) Align the base of the bulb with the receptacle
in the license plate lamp unit socket.
(2) Push the bulb straight into the license plate
lamp unit socket until it is firmly seated.
(3) Align the socket and bulb with the socket open-
ing on the top of the license plate lamp unit housing
(Fig. 47).
(4) Push the socket and bulb straight into the
license plate lamp unit housing until it is firmly
seated.(5) Rotate the socket on the top of the license plate
lamp unit housing clockwise about 30 degrees.
(6) Swing the license plate bracket back against
the spare tire (Fig. 46).
(7) Lift up the bottom of the license mounting
plate far enough to install and tighten the two
screws that secure the license plate bracket to the
special lug nuts on the spare tire. Tighten the screws
to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower the bottom of the license mounting plate
and, using hand pressure, snap it into place on the
license plate bracket.
(9) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
NORTH AMERICA
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the two screws that secure the license
plate lamp unit to the rear bumper fascia (Fig. 48).
(3) Pull the license plate lamp unit down and out
through the mounting hole in the rear bumper fascia
far enough to access and disconnect the wire harness
connector for the lamp socket pigtail wire.
(4) Remove the license plate lamp unit from the
rear bumper fascia.
Fig. 47 License Plate Lamp Bulb Remove/Install -
Rest-Of-World
1 - LAMP UNIT (2)
2 - LICENSE PLATE BRACKET
3 - SCREW (4)
4 - BULB & SOCKET (2)
Fig. 48 License Plate Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - REAR BUMPER FASCIA
2 - LICENSE PLATE LAMP UNIT
3 - SCREW (2)
KJLAMPS8Ls-45
LICENSE PLATE LAMP BULB (Continued)

INSTALLATION
NOTE: The rear washer nozzle latch feature is a one
time component, and will be damaged if the nozzle
is removed from its mounting hole for service. If
removed from its mounting hole for any reason, the
rear washer nozzle must be replaced with a new
unit.
(1) Position the new rear washer nozzle to the roof
panel (Fig. 7). Be certain that a new rubber gasket is
in position on the back of the nozzle.
(2) Reconnect the washer hose to the barbed nip-
ple on the back of the rear washer nozzle.
(3) Insert the rear washer nozzle supply hose and
nipple into the mounting hole in the roof panel and
align the nozzle with the hole.
(4) Engage the tab at the top of the nozzle behind
the sheet metal at the top of the roof panel mounting
hole.
(5) Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly
on the hood of the rear washer nozzle until the lower
latch feature snaps into place behind the sheet metal
at the bottom of the roof panel mounting hole.
REAR WIPER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The rear wiper arm is the rigid member located
between the rear wiper motor output shaft that pro-
trudes from the outer tailgate panel near the base of
the rear flip-up glass opening and the rear wiper
blade (Fig. 8). This wiper arm features an over-center
hinge that allows easy access to the tailgate and rear
flip-up glass for cleaning, after the spare tire is
removed. The wiper arm has a die cast metal pivot
end with a large tapered mounting hole at one end. A
molded plastic pivot cover is secured loosely to and
pivots on the wiper arm hinge pin to conceal the
wiper arm retaining nut. The wide end of a tapered,
stamped steel channel is secured with a hinge pin to
the pivot end of the wiper arm. One end of a long,
rigid, stamped steel strap, with a small hole near its
pivot end, is riveted and crimped within the narrow
end of the stamped steel channel. The tip of the
wiper blade end of this strap is bent back under itself
to form a small hook. Concealed within the stamped
steel channel, one end of a long spring is engaged
with a wire hook on the underside of the die cast
pivot end, while the other end of the spring is hooked
through the small hole in the steel strap. A molded
plastic wiper arm support is snapped onto the wiper
arm strap where it exits the channel. The entire
wiper arm has a satin black finish applied to all of
its visible surfaces.
Fig. 7 Rear Washer Nozzle Remove/Install
1 - NOZZLE
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - HEADLINER HOSEFig. 8 Rear Wiper Arm
1 - HOOK
2 - STRAP
3 - CHANNEL
4 - HINGE PIN
5 - COVER
6 - PIVOT END
7 - TENSION SPRING
8 - SUPPORT
KJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 37
REAR WASHER NOZZLE (Continued)

90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage. Refer to Engine
Specifications for the proper clearance.Plastigage
should indicate the same clearance across the
entire width of the insert. If the clearance var-
ies, it may be caused by either a tapered jour-
nal, bent connecting rod or foreign material
trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
(7) If the correct clearance is indicated, replace-
ment of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove
the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing
insert. Proceed with installation.
(8) If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the
specification, determin which services bearing set to
use the bearing sizes are as follows:
Bearing
MarkSIZE USED WITH
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US.025 mm 57.871-57.879 mm
(.001 in.) (2.2783-2.2786 in.)
Std.STANDARD 57.896-57.904 mm
(2.2793-2.2810 in.)
.250 US.250 mm 57.646-57.654 mm
(.010 in.) (2.2695-2.2698 in.)
(9) Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify
your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
(10) Once you have selected the proper insert,
install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90É turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the con-
necting rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.
Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is
not within specification.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON FITTING
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (
.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge
is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of
bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to
the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point
B (Fig. 54).
(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the
piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.(4) The coating material is applied to the piston
after the final piston machining process. Measuring
the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro-
vide accurate results (Fig. 53). Therefore measuring
the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial
Bore Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of
reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
(5) Piston installation into the cylinder bore
requires slightly more pressure than that required
for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the
piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit
with the cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the following components:
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
²Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
²Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- REMOVAL).
²Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores
with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons
from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops of pis-
tons covered during this operation.Pistons and
connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder
block. When removing piston and connecting rod
Fig. 53 Moly Coated Piston - Typical
1 - MOLY COATED
2 - MOLY COATED
9 - 50 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and
main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 70)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb IdleÐ25 Kpa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpmÐ170 - 550 KPa (25 - 80 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
9 - 60 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
LUBRICATION (Continued)

INSPECTION
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and
spring should not be removed from the oil pump. If
these components are disassembled and or
removed from the pump the entire oil pump assem-
bly must be replaced.
(1) Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of
the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump
cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly
should be replaced.
(2) Lay a straight edge across the pump cover sur-
face (Fig. 79). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge
can be inserted between the cover and the straight
edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
(3) Measure the thickness of the outer rotor (Fig.
80). If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.4727 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must
be replaced.
(4) Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the
outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382
in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
(5) Measure the thickness of the inner rotor (Fig.
81). If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly
must be replaced.
(6) Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump.
Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and
the body (Fig. 82). If the measurement is 0.235mm
(0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(7) Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump
body. Measure the clearance between the inner and
outer rotors (Fig. 83). If the clearance between the
rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump
assembly must be replaced.
(8) Place a straight edge across the body of the oil
pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of
.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted
between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump
must be replaced (Fig. 84).
NOTE: The 3.7 Oil pump is released as an assem-
bly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for
Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil
pump is not functioning or out of specification it
must be replaced as an assembly.
Fig. 79 Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
Fig. 80 Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness
Fig. 81 Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness
9 - 66 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
OIL PUMP (Continued)

(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
9s - 4 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 3)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 3)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 3)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 4). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.
(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the metricscale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Compare clearance measurements to specs found in
engine specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECI-
FICATIONS).Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale.
Fig. 3 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 4 Plastigage Placed in Lower ShellÐTypical
1 - PLASTIGAGE
KJENGINE9s-11
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
5. Reservoir cap not installed correctly. 5. Install reservoir cap correctly.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
2. Wrong gear. 2. Verify gear.
3. Tire Pressure 3. Adjust Tire Pressure
BINDING AND STICKING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
DIFFICULT TO TURN WHEEL
STICKS OR BINDS1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Tire pressure. 2. Adjust tire pressure.
3. Steering components (ball
joints/tie rod ends).3 Inspect and repair as necessary.
4. Loose belt. 4. Adjust or replace.
5. Low pump pressure. 5. Pressure test and replace if
necessary.
6. Column Intermediate shaft
binding.6. Replace Intermediate Shaft.
7. Steering gear worn. 7. Replace gear.
INSUFFICIENT ASST. OR POOR RETURN TO CENTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
HARD TURNING OR MOMENTARY
INCREASE IN TURNING EFFORT1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Low fluid level. 2. Fill to proper level.
3. Loose belt. 3. Adjust or replace.
4. Low pump pressure. 4. Pressure test and repair as
necessary.
5. Internal gear leak. 5. Replace gear.
STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT
WANT TO RETURN TO CENTER
POSITION1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Wheel alignment. 2. Align front end.
3. Lack of lubrication. 3. Inspect and lubricate suspension
compnents.
4. High friction in steering gear. 4. Replace gear.
19 - 2 STEERINGKJ
STEERING (Continued)

LOOSE STEERING AND VEHICLE LEAD
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN STEERING
WHEEL1. Worn or loose suspension or
steering components.1. Inspect and repair as necessary.
2. Worn or loose wheel bearings. 2. Inspect and replace bearings.
3. Steering gear mounting. 3. Tighten / replace gear mounting
bolts/ isolators to specification.
4. Gear out of adjustment. 4. Replace gear.
5. Worn or loose steering
intermediate shaft.5. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
VEHICLE PULLS, DRIFTS OR
LEADS TO ONE SIDE.1. Tire Pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Radial tire lead. 2. Rotate tires.
3. Brakes dragging. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Wheel alignment. 4. Align front end.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING
FLOW AND PRESSURE
The following procedure is used to test the opera-
tion of the power steering system on the vehicle. This
test will provide the gallons per minute (GPM) or
flow rate of the power steering pump along with the
maximum relief pressure. Perform test any time a
power steering system problem is present. This test
will determine if the power steering pump or power
steering gear is not functioning properly. The follow-
ing pressure and flow test is performed using Power
Steering Analyzer Tool kit 6815 and (Fig. 1) Adapter
Kit 6893.
FLOW AND PRESSURE TEST
(1) Check the power steering belt to ensure it is in
good condition and adjusted properly.
(2) Connect pressure gauge hose from the Power
Steering Analyzer to Tube 6844.
(3) Connect Adapter 6826 to Power Steering Ana-
lyzer test valve end.
(4) Disconnect the high pressure hose from the
power steering pump.
(5) Connect the tube to the pump hose fitting.
(6) Connect the power steering hose from the
steering gear to the adapter.
(7) Open the test valve completely.
(8) Start engine and let idle long enough to circu-
late power steering fluid through flow/pressure test
gauge and to get air out of the fluid. Then shut off
engine.
(9) Check fluid level, add fluid as necessary. Start
engine again and let idle.
(10) Check for air bubbles, Evacuate if necessary
(11) Gauge should read below 862 kPa (125 psi), if
above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as
necessary. The initial pressure reading should be in
the range of 345-552 kPa (50-80 psi).
(12) Increase the engine speed to 1500 RPM and
read the flow meter. If the flow rate (GPM) is below
specification, (refer to pump specification chart for
GPM) the pump should be replaced.
CAUTION: The following test procedure involves
testing maximum pump pressure output and flow
control valve operation. Do not leave valve closed
for more than three seconds as the pump could be
damaged.
Fig. 1 Analyzer With Tube and Adapter
1 - TUBE
2 - ADAPTER FITTINGS
3 - ANALYZER
4 - GAUGE HOSE
KJSTEERING 19 - 3
STEERING (Continued)

GEAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
GEAR
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................13
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4WD......................13
REMOVAL - 2WD......................14
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4WD..................14INSTALLATION - 2WD..................14
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................15
SPECIAL TOOLS
OUTER TIE ROD END REMOVAL TOOL....15
GEAR
DESCRIPTION
A rack and pinion steering gear (Fig. 1) is made up
of two main components, the pinon shaft and the
rack. The gear cannot be adjusted or internally ser-
viced. If a malfunction or a fluid leak occurs, the gear
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The steering column intermediate shaft is attached
to the gear pinion. The rotation of the pinion moves
the gear rack from side-to-side. This lateral action of
the rack pushes and pulls the tie rods, which are
connected to the steering knuckles to change the
direction of the front wheels.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4WD
(1) Siphon the power steering fluid from the power
steering reservoir.
(2) Lock the steering wheel to prevent spinning of
the clockspring.
(3) Raise and support the vehicle.
(4) Remove the skid plate from under the front
end to gain access to the gear (Refer to 13 - FRAME
& BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT SKID PLATE -
REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
NOTE: Mark the alignment adjusting cams for eas-
ier installation.
(6) Remove the lower control arms. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the front axle. (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - REMOV-
AL).
(8) Remove the tie rod end nuts.
(9) Separate tie rod ends from the knuckles with
Puller C-3894-A.
(10) Remove the intermediate shaft lower coupler
bolt and slide the coupler off the gear (Fig. 2).
(11) Remove power steering pressure hose bracket
(Fig. 3).
(12) Remove the power steering lines from the
gear (Fig. 2).
(13) Remove the mounting bolts from the gear to
the front cradle (Fig. 3).
(14) Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Fig. 1 Rack & Pinion Steering Gear
1 - TIE ROD - INNER
2 - TIE ROD - INNER
3 - TIE ROD END - OUTER LH
4 - BOOTS
5 - TIE ROD END - OUTER RH
KJGEAR 19 - 13