weight JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G User Guide

DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the
differential bearings.1. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set differential bearing pre-load
properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
Differential Gears Scored 1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
3. Excessive spinning of one
wheel/tire.3. Replace scored gears. Inspect all
gears, pinion bores, and shaft for
damage. Service as necessary.
3 - 52 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lift/jack under the axle and secure
axle to device.
(3) Remove wheels and tires.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft and suspend under the
vehicle.
(6) Remove brake drums, parking brake cables and
speed sensor from the axle.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the body junction
block.
(8) Remove brakes and backing plates.
(9) Remove vent hose from the axle shaft tube.
(10) Remove the stabilizer bar (Fig. 5).
(11) Remove upper control arm ball joint pinch
bolt from bracket (Fig. 6).
(12) Remove shock absorbers from axle brackets
(Fig. 7).
(13) Loosen all lower control arms mounting bolts
(Fig. 8).
(14) Lower axle enough to remove coil springs and
spring insulators.
(15) Remove lower control arm bolts from the axle
brackets.
(16) Lower and remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before the lower control arms
are tightened. This must be done to maintain vehi-
cle ride height and prevent premature bushing fail-
ure.(1) Raise the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Install lower control arms onto the axle brack-
ets and loosely install the mounting bolts.
(3) Install coil spring isolators and spring.
(4) Raise axle up until springs are seated.
(5) Install upper control arm ball joint into axle
bracket and tighten pinch bolt to torque specification.
(6) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to
torque specification.
(7) Install stabilizer bar and tighten nuts to torque
specification.
(8) Install brake backing plates, parking brake
cables, brake drums and speed sensor.
(9) Install brake hose to the body junction block
and bleed the brakes.
Fig. 5 STABILIZER BAR MOUNTS
1 - STABILIZER BAR MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 6 BALL JOINT PINCH BOLT
1 - UPPER BALL JOINT
2 - PINCH BOLT
Fig. 7 SHOCK ABSORBER
1 - UPPER MOUNTING BOLT
2 - LOWER MOUNTING BOLT
3 - 54 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

traction. Pulling power is provided continuously until
both wheels loose traction. If both wheels slip due to
unequal traction, Trac-lokŸ operation is normal. In
extreme cases of differences of traction, the wheel
with the least traction may spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changeswhen the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 88 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the
differential bearings.1. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set differential bearing pre-load
properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
Differential Gears Scored 1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
3. Excessive spinning of one
wheel/tire.3. Replace scored gears. Inspect all
gears, pinion bores, and shaft for
damage. Service as necessary.
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 89
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lift/jack under the axle and secure
axle to device.
(3) Remove wheels and tires.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft and suspend under the
vehicle.
(6) Remove brake drums, parking brake cables and
speed sensor from the axle.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the body junction
block.
(8) Remove brakes and backing plates.
(9) Remove vent hose from the axle shaft tube.
(10) Remove the stabilizer bar (Fig. 4).
(11) Remove upper control arm ball joint pinch
bolt from bracket (Fig. 5).
(12) Remove shock absorbers from axle brackets
(Fig. 6).
(13) Loosen all lower control arms mounting bolts
(Fig. 7).
(14) Lower axle enough to remove coil springs and
spring insulators.
(15) Remove lower control arm bolts from the axle
brackets.
(16) Lower and remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before the lower control arms
are tightened. This must be done to maintain vehi-
cle ride height and prevent premature bushing fail-
ure.(1) Raise the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Install lower control arms onto the axle brack-
ets and loosely install the mounting bolts.
(3) Install coil spring isolators and spring.
(4) Raise axle up until springs are seated.
(5) Install upper control arm ball joint into axle
bracket and tighten pinch bolt to torque specification.
(6) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to
torque specification.
(7) Install stabilizer bar and tighten nuts to torque
specification.
(8) Install brake backing plates, parking brake
cables, brake drums and speed sensor.
(9) Install brake hose to the body junction block
and bleed the brakes.
Fig. 4 STABILIZER BAR MOUNTS
1 - STABILIZER BAR MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 5 BALL JOINT PINCH BOLT
1 - UPPER BALL JOINT
2 - PINCH BOLT
Fig. 6 SHOCK ABSORBER
1 - UPPER MOUNTING BOLT
2 - LOWER MOUNTING BOLT
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 91
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

(2) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, fork pivot and release fork pivot sur-
face.
(3) Install new release bearing. Be sure bearing is
properly secured to release fork.
(4) Install transmission.
FLYWHEEL
DESCRIPTION
STANDARD FLYWHEEL
The standard flywheel is used on the 3.7L engine.
The flywheel (Fig. 3) is a heavy plate bolted to the
rear of the crankshaft. The flywheel incorporates the
ring gear around the outer circumference to mesh
with the starter to permit engine cranking. The rear
face of the flywheel serves as the driving member to
the clutch disc.
DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
The Dual Mass Flywheel is used on the 2.4 l
engine (Fig. 4). The flywheel incorporates the ring
gear around the outer circumference to mesh with
the starter to permit engine cranking. The primary
flywheel side is bolted to the crankshaft. The second-
ary flywheel face serves as the driving member to the
clutch disc. Internal springs between the flywheels
are use to dampen energy.
OPERATION
The flywheel serves to dampen the engine firing
pulses. The heavy weight of the flywheel relative to
the rotating mass of the engine components serves to
stabilize the flow of power to the remainder of the
drivetrain. The crankshaft has the tendency toattempt to speed up and slow down in response to
the cylinder firing pulses. The flywheel dampens
these impulses by absorbing energy when the crank-
shaft speeds and releasing the energy back into the
system when the crankshaft slows down.
Fig. 2 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
1 - RELEASE BEARING
2 - RELEASE FORK
Fig. 3 FLYWHEEL
1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - RING GEAR
3 - FLYWHEEL
Fig. 4 DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
1 - LOCATING STUD
2 - BEARING
3 - SECONDARY FLYWHEEL
4 - DAMPER SPRING
5 - RING GEAR
6 - PRIMARY FLYWHEEL
7 - FRICTION DISC
KJCLUTCH 6 - 7
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

To read the built-in indicator, look into the sight
glass and note the color of the indication (Fig. 8). The
battery condition that each color indicates is
described in the following list:
²Green- Indicates 75% to 100% battery state-of-
charge. The battery is adequately charged for further
testing or return to service. If the starter will not
crank for a minimum of fifteen seconds with a fully-
charged battery, the battery must be load tested.
Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper battery
load test procedures.
²Black or Dark- Indicates 0% to 75% battery
state-of-charge. The battery is inadequately charged
and must be charged until a green indication is visi-
ble in the sight glass (12.4 volts or more), before the
battery is tested further or returned to service. Refer
to Standard Procedures for the proper battery charg-
ing procedures. Also refer to Diagnosis and Testing
for more information on the possible causes of the
discharged battery condition.
²Clear or Bright- Indicates a low battery elec-
trolyte level. The electrolyte level in the battery is
below the built-in indicator. A maintenance-free bat-
tery with non-removable cell caps must be replaced if
the electrolyte level is low. Water must be added to a
low-maintenance battery with removable cell caps
before it is charged. Refer to Standard Procedures for
the proper battery filling procedures. A low electro-
lyte level may be caused by an overcharging condi-
tion. Refer to Charging System for the proper
charging system diagnosis and testing procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROMETER TEST
The hydrometer test reveals the battery state-of-
charge by measuring the specific gravity of the elec-
trolyte.This test cannot be performed on
maintenance-free batteries with non-removable
cell caps.If the battery has non-removable cell caps,
refer to Diagnosis and Testing for alternate methods
of determining the battery state-of-charge.
Specific gravity is a comparison of the density of
the battery electrolyte to the density of pure water.Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.000, and sulfu-
ric acid has a specific gravity of 1.835. Sulfuric acid
makes up approximately 35% of the battery electro-
lyte by weight, or 24% by volume. In a fully-charged
battery the electrolyte will have a temperature-cor-
rected specific gravity of 1.260 to 1.290. However, a
specific gravity of 1.235 or above is satisfactory for
the battery to be load tested and/or returned to ser-
vice.
Before testing, visually inspect the battery for any
damage (a cracked case or cover, loose posts, etc.)
that would cause the battery to be faulty. Then
remove the battery cell caps and check the electrolyte
level. Add distilled water if the electrolyte level is
below the top of the battery plates. Refer to Battery
System Cleaning for the proper battery inspection
procedures.
See the instructions provided by the manufacturer
of the hydrometer for recommendations on the cor-
rect use of the hydrometer that you are using.
Remove only enough electrolyte from the battery cell
so that the float is off the bottom of the hydrometer
barrel with pressure on the bulb released. To read
the hydrometer correctly, hold it with the top surface
of the electrolyte at eye level (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: Exercise care when inserting the tip of
the hydrometer into a battery cell to avoid damag-
ing the plate separators. Damaged plate separators
can cause early battery failure.
Hydrometer floats are generally calibrated to indi-
cate the specific gravity correctly only at 26.7É C.
When testing the specific gravity at any other tem-
perature, a correction factor is required. The correc-
tion factor is approximately a specific gravity value
of 0.004, which may also be identified as four points
of specific gravity. For each 5.5É C above 26.7É C, add
four points. For each 5.5É C below 26.7É C, subtract
four points. Always correct the specific gravity for
temperature variation.
EXAMPLE:A battery is tested at -12.2É C and has
a specific gravity of 1.240. Determine the actual spe-
cific gravity as follows:
(1) Determine the number of degrees above or
below 26.7É C:26.7É C + -12.2É C = 14.5É C below
the 26.7É C specification
(2) Divide the result from Step 1 by 5.5É C:14.5É
C ÷ 5.5É C = 2.64
(3) Multiply the result from Step 2 by the temper-
ature correction factor (0.004):2.64 X 0.004 = 0.01
(4) The temperature at testing was below 26.7É C;
therefore, the temperature correction factor is sub-
tracted:1.240 - 0.01 = 1.23
(5) The corrected specific gravity of the battery cell
in this example is 1.23.
Fig. 8 Built-In Indicator Sight Glass Chart
KJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 11
BATTERY (Continued)

FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the front wheels full lock in the direction
of the fog lamp bulb that is to be changed.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Reach into the front wheel opening to unsnap
and lift the cover over the access hole at the front of
the front wheelhouse splash shield (Fig. 14).
(4) Reach through the access hole to remove the
three screws that secure the front fog lamp unit to
the front bumper fascia.
(5) From the front of the vehicle, pull the front fog
lamp unit out of the front bumper fascia far enough
to access and disconnect the wire harness connector
for the front fog lamp unit from the lamp socket con-
nector receptacle (Fig. 15).
(6) Remove the front fog lamp unit from the front
bumper fascia.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the front fog lamp unit to the front
bumper fascia.
(2) Reconnect the wire harness connector for the
front fog lamp to the lamp socket connector recepta-
cle (Fig. 15).
(3) Position the front fog lamp unit into the front
bumper fascia.
(4) Reach into the front wheel opening and
through the access hole to install and tighten the
three screws that secure the front fog lamp unithousing to the front bumper fascia (Fig. 14). Tighten
the screws to 3 N´m (25 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower and snap shut the cover over the access
hole at the front of the front wheelhouse splash
shield.
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(7) Confirm proper front fog lamp unit alignment.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT - ADJUST-
MENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Repair or replace any faulty or damaged com-
ponents that could hinder proper lamp alignment.
(2) Verify proper tire inflation.
(3) Clean the front fog lamp lenses.
(4) Verify that the cargo area is not heavily loaded.
(5) The fuel tank should be Full. Add 2.94 kilo-
grams (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for
each estimated gallon of missing fuel.
FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
Prepare an alignment screen as illustrated. A prop-
erly aligned front fog lamp will project a pattern on
the alignment screen 100 millimeters (4 inches)
below the fog lamp centerline and straight ahead of
the lamp.
Fig. 14 Front Fog Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
2 - SCREW (3)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
4 - FRONT BUMPER FASCIA
5 - ACCESS HOLE
Fig. 15 Front Fog Lamp Unit
1 - ADJUSTING SCREW
2 - MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - HOUSING
4 - SOCKET & BULB
5 - LENS
KJLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 25

enough to disengage the locator tab on the outboard
side of the unit (Fig. 41) or (Fig. 42) from the engage-
ment slot in the outboard edge of the reinforcement.
(5) Pull the headlamp unit away from the grille
opening reinforcement far enough to disconnect the
wire harness connectors from the headlamp bulbsocket (North America), the headlamp bulb base
(Rest-Of-World), the front position lamp socket (if
equipped), and the headlamp leveling motor (if
equipped).
(6) Remove the headlamp unit from the grille
opening reinforcement.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the headlamp unit to the grille open-
ing reinforcement.
(2) Reconnect the wire harness connectors to the
headlamp bulb socket (North America), the headlamp
bulb base (Rest-Of-World), the front position lamp
socket (if equipped), and the headlamp leveling motor
(if equipped) (Fig. 41) or (Fig. 42).
(3) Engage the locator tab on the outboard side of
the headlamp unit into the engagement slot in the
outboard edge of the grille opening reinforcement.
(4) Align the two mounting tabs on the inboard
side of the headlamp unit housing to the mounting
holes in the grille opening reinforcement (Fig. 40).
(5) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the mounting tabs on the inboard side of the head-
lamp unit housing to the grille opening reinforce-
ment. Tighten the screws to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.).
(6) Reinstall the grille panel onto the grille open-
ing reinforcement. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/
GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(8) Confirm proper headlamp unit alignment.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/HEADLAMP UNIT - ADJUSTMENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - HEADLAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer (multi-function)
switch and high beam indicator operation.
(2) If the vehicle is equipped with headlamp level-
ing, be certain that the headlamp leveling switch is
in the ª0º position.
(3) Repair or replace any faulty or damaged com-
ponents that could hinder proper lamp alignment.
(4) Verify proper tire inflation.
(5) Clean headlamp lenses.
(6) Verify that cargo area is not heavily loaded.
(7) The fuel tank should be Full. Add 2.94 kilo-
grams (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for
each estimated gallon of missing fuel.
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
Prepare an alignment screen as illustrated.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface perpen-
dicular to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from
Fig. 41 Headlamp Unit - North America
1 - MOUNTING TAB (2)
2 - ADJUSTING SCREW
3 - LOCK RING
4 - HOUSING
5 - LOCATOR TAB
6 - SOCKET & BULB
Fig. 42 Headlamp Unit - Rest-Of-World
1 - LEVELING MOTOR (IF EQUIPPED)
2 - BOOT SEAL
3 - ADJUSTING SCREW
4 - LOCATOR TAB
5 - HOUSING
6 - FRONT POSITION LAMP SOCKET & BULB
7 - HEADLAMP BULB
8 - MOUNTING TAB (2)
8L - 42 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORKJ
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

(5) From the front of the vehicle, pull the front fog
lamp unit out of the front bumper fascia far enough
to access and disconnect the wire harness connector
for the front fog lamp unit from the lamp socket con-
nector receptacle (Fig. 15).
(6) Remove the front fog lamp unit from the front
bumper fascia.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the front fog lamp unit to the front
bumper fascia.
(2) Reconnect the wire harness connector for the
front fog lamp to the lamp socket connector recepta-
cle (Fig. 15).
(3) Position the front fog lamp unit into the front
bumper fascia.
(4) Reach into the front wheel opening and
through the access hole to install and tighten the
three screws that secure the front fog lamp unit
housing to the front bumper fascia (Fig. 14). Tighten
the screws to 3 N´m (25 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower and snap shut the cover over the access
hole at the front of the front wheelhouse splash
shield.
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(7) Confirm proper front fog lamp unit alignment.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT - ADJUST-
MENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Repair or replace any faulty or damaged com-
ponents that could hinder proper lamp alignment.
(2) Verify proper tire inflation.
(3) Clean the front fog lamp lenses.
(4) Verify that the cargo area is not heavily loaded.
(5) The fuel tank should be Full. Add 2.94 kilo-
grams (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for
each estimated gallon of missing fuel.
FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
Prepare an alignment screen as illustrated. A prop-
erly aligned front fog lamp will project a pattern on
the alignment screen 100 millimeters (4 inches)
below the fog lamp centerline and straight ahead of
the lamp.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface perpen-
dicular to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from
the front of the front fog lamp lens (Fig. 16). If nec-
essary, tape a line on the floor 7.62 meters (25 feet)
away from and parallel to the wall.
(2) Measure up on the wall 1.27 meters (5 feet)
from the floor and tape a vertical line on the align-
ment screen at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from the rear of
the vehicle forward) to verify the accuracy of the cen-
terline placement.
Fig. 14 Front Fog Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
2 - SCREW (3)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
4 - FRONT BUMPER FASCIA
5 - ACCESS HOLE
Fig. 15 Front Fog Lamp Unit
1 - ADJUSTING SCREW
2 - MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - HOUSING
4 - SOCKET & BULB
5 - LENS
KJLAMPS8Ls-25
FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT (Continued)