tow bar JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(2) Follow the instructions in the repair kit for
preparing the damaged area.
(3) Remove the package separator clamp and mix
the two conductive epoxy components thoroughly
within the packaging. Fold the package in half and
cut the center corner to dispense the epoxy.
(4) For grid line repairs, mask the area to be
repaired with masking tape or a template.
(5) Apply the epoxy through the slit in the mask-
ing tape or template. Overlap both ends of the break
by at least 19 millimeters (0.75 inch).
(6) For a terminal or pigtail wire replacement,
mask the adjacent areas so the epoxy can be
extended onto the adjacent grid line as well as the
bus bar. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the area
where the terminal or pigtail wire was fastened and
onto the adjacent grid line.
(7) Apply a thin layer of conductive epoxy to the
terminal or bare wire end of the pigtail and place it
in the proper location on the bus bar. To prevent the
terminal or pigtail wire from moving while the epoxy
is curing, it must be wedged or clamped.
(8)
Carefully remove the masking tape or template.
CAUTION: Do not allow the glass surface to exceed
204É C (400É F) or the glass may fracture.
(9) Allow the epoxy to cure 24 hours at room tem-
perature, or use a heat gun that will not over heat
the glass. Hold the heat gun approximately 25.4 cen-
timeters (10 inches) from the repair.
(10) After the conductive epoxy is properly cured,
remove the wedge or clamp from the terminal or pig-
tail wire. Do not attach the wire harness connectors
until the curing process is complete.
(11) Check the operation of the rear window defog-
ger glass heating grid.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
GRID
DESCRIPTION
The heated rear window glass has two electrically
conductive vertical bus bars and a series of 11 hori-
zontal grid lines made of a silver-ceramic material,
which is baked on and bonded to the inside surface of
the glass. The grid lines and bus bars comprise a
parallel electrical circuit.
OPERATION
When the rear window defogger switch is placed in
the On position, electrical current is directed to the
rear window grid lines through the bus bars. The
grid lines heat the rear window to clear the surface
of fog or snow. Protection for the heated grid circuit
is provided by a fuse in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC).
The grid lines and bus bars are highly resistant to
abrasion. However, it is possible for an open circuit
to occur in an individual grid line, resulting in no
current flow through the line.
The grid lines can be damaged or scraped off with
sharp instruments. Care should be taken when clean-
ing the glass or removing foreign materials, decals,
or stickers from the glass. Normal glass cleaning sol-
vents or hot water used with rags or toweling is rec-
ommended.
A repair kit is available to repair the grid lines and
bus bars, or to reinstall the heated glass pigtail
wires.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER GRID
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). To detect breaks in
the grid lines, the following procedure is required:
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the run position.
Set the defogger switch in the On position. The indi-
cator lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 2. If not
OK, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/HEATED GLASS/
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER RELAY - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
(2) Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the right side of the vehicle with the
negative lead. With the positive lead, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the left side of the vehicle. The volt-
meter should read battery voltage. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the defogger
relay as required.
(3) With the negative lead of the voltmeter, contact
a good body ground point. The voltage reading should
not change. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the
circuit to ground as required.
Fig. 2 GRID LINE REPAIR
1 - BREAK
2 - GRID LINE
3 - MASKING TAPE
KJWINDOW DEFOGGER 8G - 5
WINDOW DEFOGGER (Continued)

(4) Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to
the right side bus bar and touch each grid line at its
midpoint with the positive lead (Fig. 3). A reading of
approximately six volts indicates a line is good. A
reading of zero volts indicates a break in the grid
line between the midpoint of the grid line and the
left side bus bar. A reading of ten to fourteen volts
indicates a break between the midpoint of the grid
line and the right side bus bar. Move the positive
lead on the grid line towards the break and the volt-
age reading will change as soon as the break is
crossed.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The rear window defogger relay is a International
Standards Organization (ISO)-type relay. The rear
window defogger relay is a electromechanical device
that switches fused battery current to the rear glass
and outside mirror heating grids, and the indicator
lamp of the defogger switch, when the HVAC control
head rear window defogger timer and logic circuitrygrounds the relay coil. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
HEATED GLASS/REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
RELAY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
The rear window defogger relay is located in the
junction block, on the left side of the instrument
panel inboard to the center of the vehicle (just to the
left and above the brake pedal or behind the knee
blocker). The rear window defogger relay cannot be
repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The ISO relay consists of an electromagnetic coil, a
resistor or diode, and three (two fixed and one mov-
able) electrical contacts. The movable (common feed)
relay contact is held against one of the fixed contacts
(normally closed) by spring pressure. When the elec-
tromagnetic coil is energized, it draws the movable
contact away from the normally closed fixed contact,
and holds it against the other (normally open) fixed
contact.
When the electromagnetic coil is de-energized,
spring pressure returns the movable contact to the
normally closed position. The resistor is connected in
parallel with the electromagnetic coil in the relay,
and helps to dissipate voltage spikes that are pro-
duced when the coil is de-energized.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER RELAY
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL
AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
RELAY TEST
The defogger relay (Fig. 4) is located in the junc-
tion block, on the left side of the instrument panel
inboard to the center of the vehicle (just to the right
and above the brake pedal or behind the knee
blocker). Remove the defogger relay from the junction
block to perform the following tests:
(1) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
Fig. 3 REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
1 - DEFOGGER BACKGLASS
2 - HEATED GLASS CONNECTOR9A9
3 - HINDGE MOUNTING SCREWS (2)
4 - HINDGE (LEFT SIDE)
5 - HINDGE MOUNTING SCREWS (2)
6 - HINDGE (RIGHT SIDE)
7 - HEATED GLASS CONNECTOR9B9
8 - BACKGLASS DEFOGGER GRID
8G - 6 WINDOW DEFOGGERKJ
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER GRID (Continued)

LICENSE PLATE LAMP BULB
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................45
LICENSE PLATE LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL.............................45
INSTALLATION.........................46
MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................46
OPERATION...........................48
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MULTI-
FUNCTION SWITCH...................50
REMOVAL.............................53
INSTALLATION.........................53
PARK LAMP RELAY
DESCRIPTION.........................54
OPERATION...........................54
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PARK LAMP
RELAY..............................55
REMOVAL.............................55
INSTALLATION.........................56
REAR FOG LAMP RELAY
DESCRIPTION.........................56
OPERATION...........................57
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR FOG
LAMP RELAY.........................57
REMOVAL.............................58
INSTALLATION.........................58
REAR LAMP BULB
REMOVAL.............................59
INSTALLATION.........................59
REAR LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL.............................59
INSTALLATION.........................60
REPEATER LAMP BULB
REMOVAL.............................60INSTALLATION.........................60
REPEATER LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL.............................61
INSTALLATION.........................61
TRAILER TOW CONNECTOR
REMOVAL.............................61
INSTALLATION.........................61
TRAILER TOW RELAY
DESCRIPTION.........................62
OPERATION...........................62
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAILER TOW
RELAY..............................62
REMOVAL.............................63
INSTALLATION.........................63
TRAILER TOW WIRING
DESCRIPTION.........................64
LAMP BAR
DESCRIPTION.........................65
OPERATION...........................65
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LAMP BAR.....65
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LAMP BAR
AIMING.............................65
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LAMP BAR.................65
REMOVAL - LAMP.....................66
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - LAMP BAR.............66
INSTALLATION - LAMP.................66
LAMP BAR SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................67
REMOVAL.............................67
INSTALLATION.........................67
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR
DESCRIPTION
The exterior lighting system for this model
includes the following exterior lamps (Fig. 1):
²Backup Lamps- The backup (or reverse) lamps
are integral to the rear lamp units mounted to the
back of the quarter panel on each side of the tailgate
at the rear of the vehicle.
²Brake Lamps- The brake (or stop) lamps
include a lamp that is integral to the rear lamp units
mounted to the back of the quarter panel on each
side of the tailgate, and the Center High Mounted
Stop Lamp (CHMSL) that is centered on the rear
edge of the roof panel above the flip-up glass opening
at the rear of the vehicle.
²Daytime Running Lamps- Vehicles manufac-
tured for sale in Canada illuminate the high beam
filament in each headlamp bulb serves as the Day-
time Running Lamps (DRL).²Front Fog Lamps- Optional front fog lamps
include a single round front fog lamp unit with an
adjustable reflector and a removable bulb that is
secured behind a dedicated opening on each forward-
facing end of the front bumper fascia.
²Hazard Warning Lamps- The hazard warning
lamps include all of the right and left turn signal
lamps.
²Headlamps- A single round headlamp housing
with a fixed lens, an adjustable reflector, and a single
removable halogen bulb is secured to the grille open-
ing panel on each side of the grille opening at the
front of the vehicle. In certain markets where
required, a headlamp leveling actuator motor is
included on each headlamp.
²Park Lamps- The park lamps include the front
park lamps and front side marker lamps that are
integral to the front lamp units mounted at each end
of the bumper fascia at the front of the vehicle, as
well as the rear park lamps and rear side marker
lamps that are integral to the rear lamp units
8Ls - 2 LAMPSKJ

OPERATION
The front check valve provides more than one func-
tion in this application. It serves as a wye connector
fitting between the cowl grille panel and washer noz-
zle sections of the front washer supply hose. It also
prevents washer fluid from draining out of the front
washer supply hoses back to the washer reservoir.
This drain-back would result in a lengthy delay when
the front washer switch is actuated until washer
fluid was dispensed through the front washer noz-
zles, because the washer pump would have to refill
the front washer plumbing from the reservoir to the
nozzles. Finally, the front check valve prevents
washer fluid from siphoning through the front
washer nozzles after the front washer system is
turned Off.
Within the check valve body, a small check valve is
held in place against a seat by a small coiled spring
to restrict flow through the unit until the valve is
unseated by a predetermined inlet fluid pressure.
When the washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the front
washer plumbing, the fluid pressure overrides the
spring pressure applied to the check valve and
unseats the valve, allowing washer fluid to flow
toward the front washer nozzles. When the washer
pump stops operating, spring pressure seats the
check valve and fluid flow in either direction within
the front washer plumbing is prevented.
REMOVAL
(1) Unlatch and open the hood.
(2) Remove both front wiper arms from the wiper
pivots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASH-
ERS - FRONT/FRONT WIPER ARM - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
from over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) From the underside of the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel, disconnect the cowl plenum and washer
nozzle hoses from the three barbed nipples of the
front check valve (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove the front check valve from the under-
side of the cowl plenum cover/grille panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the front check valve to the underside
of the cowl plenum cover/grille panel (Fig. 4). Be cer-
tain that the flow direction arrow molded into the
front check valve body is oriented towards the front
washer nozzles.
(2) From the underside of the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel, reconnect the cowl plenum and washer
nozzle hoses to the three barbed nipples of the front
check valve.
(3) Reinstall the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/COWL GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(4) Reinstall both front wiper arms onto the wiper
pivots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/FRONT WIPERS/
WASHERS/FRONT WIPER ARM - INSTALLATION).
(5) Close and latch the hood.
Fig. 3 Front Check Valve
1 - INLET NIPPLE
2 - FRONT CHECK VALVE
3 - OUTLET NIPPLE (2)
4 - FLOW DIRECTION ARROW
Fig. 4 Front Check Valve Remove/Install
1 - WASHER NOZZLE HOSE (RIGHT)
2 - FRONT CHECK VALVE
3 - COWL PLENUM WASHER HOSE
4 - ROUTING CLIP
5 - COWL GRILLE COVER (UNDERSIDE)
6 - WASHER NOZZLE HOSE (LEFT)
KJFRONT WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 9
FRONT CHECK VALVE (Continued)

FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
The two front washer nozzles have integral snap
features and an anti-rotation tab that secure them in
dedicated holes in the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
located near the base of the windshield (Fig. 7). The
domed upper surface of the washer nozzle is visible
on the top of the plenum cover/grille panel, and the
nozzle orifice is oriented towards the windshield
glass. The washer plumbing fittings for the washer
nozzles are concealed beneath the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel. These fluidic washer nozzles are con-
structed of molded plastic. The cowl plenum cover/
grille panel must be removed from the vehicle to
access the nozzles for service. The washer nozzles
cannot be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged,
they must be replaced.
OPERATION
The two front washer nozzles are designed to dis-
pense washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the
outside of the windshield glass. Pressurized washer
fluid is fed to each nozzle from the washer reservoir
by the washer pump/motor unit through a single
hose, which is attached to a barbed nipple on each
front washer nozzle below the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel. The washer nozzles incorporate a fluidic
design, which causes the nozzle to emit the pressur-
ized washer fluid as an oscillating stream to more
effectively cover a larger area of the glass area to be
cleaned.
REMOVAL
(1) Unlatch and open the hood.
(2) Remove both front wiper arms from the wiper
pivots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASH-
ERS/FRONT WIPER ARM - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
from over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) From the underside of the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel, disconnect the washer nozzle hose from
the barbed nipple of the front washer nozzle (Fig. 8).
(5)
From the underside of the cowl grille cover,
release the integral snap features of the front washer
nozzle and push the nozzle out through the mounting
hole toward the top side of the cowl plenum cover/grille
panel.
(6) Remove the front washer nozzle from the top of
the cowl plenum cover/grille panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) From the top of the cowl plenum cover/grille
panel, position the nipple end of the front washer
nozzle through the mounting hole and engage the
anti-rotation tab of the nipple into the anti-rotation
notch in the mounting hole.
(2) Push firmly and evenly on the top of the front
washer nozzle until the integral snap features lock
into place on the underside of the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel.
(3) From the underside of the cowl grille cover,
reconnect the washer hose to the barbed nipple of the
front washer nozzle (Fig. 8).
(4) Reinstall the washer hose for the front washer
nozzle into its routing clips on the underside of the
cowl plenum cover/grille panel.
Fig. 7 Front Washer Nozzle
1 - NIPPLE
2 - ANTI-ROTATION TAB
3 - FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
4 - ORIFICE
5 - LATCH (2)
Fig. 8 Front Washer Nozzle Remove/Install
1 - COWL GRILLE COVER (UNDERSIDE)
2 - FRONT WASHER NOZZLE
3 - WASHER NOZZLE HOSE
KJFRONT WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 11

WASHER FLUID LEVEL
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The washer fluid level switch is a single pole, sin-
gle throw reed-type switch mounted at the rear of
the sump area near the bottom of the washer reser-
voir (Fig. 16). Only the molded plastic switch mount-
ing flange and the integral connector receptacle are
visible when the switch is installed in the reservoir.
A short nipple formation extends from the inner sur-
face of the switch mounting flange, and a barb on the
nipple near the switch mounting flange is pressed
through a rubber grommet seal installed in the
mounting hole of the reservoir. A small, molded plas-
tic float has two pivot pins near its center that are
snapped into two receptacles near the ends of two
stanchions that extend toward the float from the
switch nipple formation. A small magnet is secured
within the end of the float nearest the switch nipple
formation, and a reed switch is concealed within the
nipple. A diagnostic resistor is connected between the
two switch terminals within the switch mounting
flange. The washer fluid level switch cannot be
adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the switch
must be replaced.
OPERATION
The washer fluid level switch uses a pivoting,
oblong float to monitor the level of the washer fluid
in the washer reservoir. The float contains a small
magnet. When the float pivots, the proximity of this
magnet to a stationary reed switch within the nipple
formation of the switch changes. When the fluid level
in the washer reservoir is at or above the float level,
the float moves to a vertical position, the influence of
the float magnetic field is removed from the reed
switch, and the normally open reed switch contacts
open. When the fluid level in the washer reservoir
falls below the level of the pivoting float, the float
moves to a horizontal position, the influence of the
float magnetic field is applied to the reed switch, and
the contacts of the normally open reed switch close.
The washer fluid level switch is connected to the
vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take
out and connector of the headlamp and dash wire
harness. The switch is connected in series between
ground and the washer fluid switch sense input to
the ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC).
The switch receives a path to ground at all times
through another take out of the headlamp and dash
wire harness with a single eyelet terminal connector
that is secured under a ground screw near the front
of the left front fender inner shield in the engine
compartment. When the switch closes, the EMIC
senses the ground on the washer fluid switch sense
circuit. The EMIC is programmed to respond to this
input by illuminating the washer fluid indicator and
by sounding an audible chime tone warning.
The washer fluid level switch input to the EMIC
can be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools
and methods. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRU-
MENT CLUSTER/WASHER FLUID INDICATOR -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
REMOVAL
The washer fluid level switch can be removed from
the washer reservoir without removing the reservoir
from the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the splash shield from the right front
fender wheel house. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/
FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the front or rear washer hose from
one of the barbed outlet nipples of the washer pump/
motor unit and allow the washer fluid to drain into a
clean container for reuse.
(5) Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness connector for the washer fluid level switch from
the switch connector receptacle (Fig. 17).
Fig. 16 Washer Fluid Level Switch
1 - MOUNTING FLANGE
2 - BARBED NIPPLE
3 - FLOAT
4 - RESERVOIR
5 - GROMMET SEAL
6 - PIVOT
7 - MAGNET
8 - CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
KJFRONT WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 17

REAR WASHER SYSTEM
The washer system components should be
inspected periodically, not just when washer perfor-
mance problems are experienced. This inspection
should include the following points:
(1) Check for ice or other foreign material in the
washer reservoir. If contaminated, clean and flush
the washer system. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
REAR WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING).
(2) Inspect the washer plumbing for pinched, leak-
ing, deteriorated, or incorrectly routed hoses and
damaged or disconnected hose fittings. Replace dam-
aged or deteriorated hoses and hose fittings. Leaking
washer hoses can sometimes be repaired by cutting
the hose at the leak and splicing it back together
using an in-line connector fitting. Similarly, sections
of deteriorated hose can be cut out and replaced by
splicing in new sections of hose using in-line connec-
tor fittings. Whenever routing a washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts. Also,
sharp bends that might pinch the washer hose must
be avoided.
REAR CHECK VALVE
DESCRIPTION
A rear washer system check valve is standard
equipment on this model (Fig. 3). The rear check
valve is located in the washer plumbing between the
rear roof header and the roof outer panel near the
rear washer nozzle. The rear check valve consists of
a molded plastic body with a round center sectionand barbed hose nipples at each end. An arrow for-
mation molded into the center section of the valve
body indicates the direction of flow through the
valve. The rear check valve cannot be adjusted or
repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The rear check valve prevents washer fluid from
draining out of the rear washer supply hoses back to
the washer reservoir. This drain-back would result in
a lengthy delay from when the rear washer switch is
actuated until washer fluid was dispensed through
the rear washer nozzle, because the washer pump
would have to refill the rear washer plumbing from
the reservoir to the nozzle. The check valve also pre-
vents washer fluid from siphoning through the rear
washer nozzle after the rear washer system is turned
Off.
Within the check valve body, a small check valve is
held in place against a seat by a small coiled spring
to restrict flow through the unit until the valve is
unseated by a predetermined inlet fluid pressure.
When the washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the rear
washer plumbing, the fluid pressure overrides the
spring pressure applied to the check ball within the
valve and unseats the valve, allowing washer fluid to
flow toward the rear washer nozzle. When the
washer pump stops operating, spring pressure seats
the check valve and fluid flow in either direction
within the rear washer plumbing is prevented.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp
(CHMSL) unit from the rear of the roof panel. (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERI-
OR/CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP UNIT
- REMOVAL).
WARNING: THE EDGES OF THE SHEET METAL
AROUND THE CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP
LAMP MOUNTING HOLE IN THE ROOF PANEL.
TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID PER-
SONAL INJURY.
(3) Reach through the CHMSL unit mounting hole
in the rear of the roof panel to access and disconnect
the rear washer hose at the barbed nipple of the rear
washer nozzle (Fig. 4).
(4) Pull the rear washer hose through the CHMSL
unit mounting hole far enough to access and discon-
nect the headliner washer hose from the barbed nip-
ple of the rear check valve.
Fig. 3 Rear Check Valve
1 - INLET NIPPLE
2 - REAR CHECK VALVE
3 - OUTLET NIPPLE
4 - FLOW DIRECTION ARROW
8R - 34 REAR WIPERS/WASHERSKJ
REAR WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)

(5) Remove the rear check valve and rear washer
nozzle hose as a unit through the CHMSL mounting
hole.
(6) Disconnect the rear washer nozzle hose from
the barbed nipple of the rear check valve.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reconnect the rear washer nozzle hose to the
barbed nipple of the rear check valve. Be certain that
the flow direction arrow molded into the rear check
valve body is oriented towards the rear washer noz-
zle hose.
WARNING: THE EDGES OF THE SHEET METAL
AROUND THE CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP
LAMP MOUNTING HOLE IN THE ROOF PANEL.
TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID PER-
SONAL INJURY.
(2) Reach through the CHMSL unit mounting hole
in the rear of the roof panel to access and pull the
headliner washer hose into the Center High Mounted
Stop Lamp (CHMSL) unit mounting hole (Fig. 4).
(3) Reconnect the headliner washer hose to the
barbed nipple of the rear check valve.
(4) Reach through the CHMSL unit mounting hole
in the rear of the roof panel to access and reconnect
the rear washer nozzle hose to the barbed nipple of
the rear washer nozzle.
(5) Reinstall the CHMSL unit to the rear of the
roof panel. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/
LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/CENTER HIGH
MOUNTED STOP LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION).
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer plumbing consists of small diam-
eter rubber hose routed from the barbed outlet nipple
of the reversible electric washer pump/motor unit on
the washer reservoir through a trough molded into
the reservoir rearward of the washer pump up to the
top of the reservoir. Near the base of the reservoir
filler neck an in-line plastic fitting connects the res-
ervoir rear washer hose to the engine compartment
rear washer hose, which is routed through the reser-
voir filler neck opening in the front extension of the
right front fender wheel house panel in to the engine
compartment. The engine compartment rear washer
hose is routed side by side with the front washer
hose along the top of the right front fender wheel
house to the dash panel. Molded plastic routing clips
secure the hoses to the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness in the engine compartment.
The engine compartment rear washer hose is con-
nected to the headliner washer hose near the right
side of the dash panel with a molded plastic in-line
fitting (Fig. 5). The headliner hose has a rubber
grommet that allows it to pass through the dash
panel from the passenger compartment into the
engine compartment. The headliner hose is routed
below the instrument panel in the passenger com-
partment near the right cowl side inner panel. The
hose is routed up the right A-pillar to the headliner.
Mounting clips secure the hose to the A-pillar. The
Fig. 4 Rear Check Valve Remove/Install
1 - WASHER NOZZLE HOSE
2 - REAR CHECK VALVE
3 - HEADLINER HOSE
4 - ROOF PANEL
5 - NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
6 - CHMSL MOUNTING HOLE
Fig. 5 Rear Washer Headliner Hose
1 - COWL SIDE INNER PANEL
2 - A-PILLAR
3 - HEADLINER HOSE
4 - CLIP (3)
5 - GROMMET
6 - DASH PANEL
KJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 35
REAR CHECK VALVE (Continued)

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9s - 10 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)