engine oil JEEP XJ 1995 Service And Owner's Manual

CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 1).Allow the sealant
to cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes af-
ter applying the sealant. If not installed the
sealant must be removed and another bead ap-
plied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 41
Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with MOPARtHypoid
Gear Lubricant to bottom of the fill plug hole.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle and position support stands
under the frame rails behind the lower suspension
arm frame brackets.
(2) Remove the front wheels.
(3) Remove the brake components and ABS brake
sensor (if equipped). Refer to Group 5ÐBrakes.
(4) On 4WD vehicles, disconnect the axle vent
hose.
(5) On 4WD vehicles, mark the drive shaft yoke
and axle pinion yoke for alignment reference. Discon-
nect the drive shaft from the axle.
(6) Disconnect the stabilizer bar link at the axle
bracket.
(7) Disconnect the shock absorbers from axle
bracket.
(8) Disconnect the track bar from the axle bracket.
(9) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering damper
from the axle bracket.
(10) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential.
(11) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle bracket.
(12) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
The coil springs will drop with the axle.
(13) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.
(1) Install the springs and retainer clip. Tighten
the retainer bolts to 21 Nzm (16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(3) Raise the axle with a floor jack and align it
with the spring pads.
(4) Position the upper and lower suspension arm at
the axle bracket. Install bolts and nuts finger
tighten.
(5) Connect the track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt.Do not tighten at this time.
It is important that the springs support the
weight of the vehicle when the track bar is con-
nected. If springs are not at their usual posi-
tion, vehicle ride comfort could be affected.
Fig. 1 Typical Housing Cover With Sealant
JFRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLE 2 - 23

MODEL 35 AXLE
INDEX
page page
Axle Shaft............................... 16
Axle Shaft Seal and Bearing................. 17
Backlash and Contact Pattern Analysis......... 27
Cleaning/Inspection........................ 20
Differential Assembly....................... 21
Differential Disassembly.................... 18
Differential Measurement and Installation........ 25
Differential Removal....................... 18
Drive Axle Assembly ReplacementÐXJ Vehicles . . 14Drive Axle Assembly ReplacementÐYJ Vehicles . . 14
Final Assembly........................... 29
General Information....................... 13
Lubricant Change......................... 13
Lubricant Specifications..................... 13
Pinion Gear Depth Information............... 21
Pinion Measurement and Assembly............ 22
Pinion Removal/Disassembly................. 19
Pinion Shaft Seal Replacement............... 15
GENERAL INFORMATION
The Model 35 housing has an iron center casting
(differential housing) with axle shaft tubes extending
from either side. The tubes are pressed into and
welded to the differential housing to form a one-piece
axle housing.
The integral type housing, hypoid gear design has
the centerline of the pinion set below the centerline
of the ring gear.
The axle has a vent hose to relieve internal pres-
sure caused by lubricant vaporization and internal
expansion.
The axles are equipped with semi-floating axle
shafts, meaning that loads are supported by the axle
shaft and bearings. The axle shafts are retained by
C-clips in the differential side gears.
The cover provides a means for servicing the differ-
ential without removing the axle.
Axles may be equipped with drum or disc brakes.
The axles that are equipped with ABS brake have a
tone ring pressed on the axle shaft. Use care when
removing axle shafts as NOT to damage the tone
wheel or the sensor.
The Model 35 axle has the assembly part number
and gear ratio listed on a tag. The tag is attached to
the housing cover. Build date identification codes are
stamped on the axle shaft tube cover side.
The differential case is a one-piece design. The dif-
ferential pinion mate shaft is retained with a
threaded roll pin. Differential bearing preload and
ring gear backlash is adjusted by the use of spacer
shims. Pinion bearing preload is set and maintained
by the use of a collapsible spacer.
For complete drive axle assembly removal
and installation refer to Drive Axle Assembly
Replacement in this Group.
LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
Multi-purpose, hypoid gear lubricant should be
used for Model 35 axle. The lubricant should haveMIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifications.
MOPAR Hypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to both of
these specifications.
²Lubricant for Model 35 axle is a thermally stable
SAE 80W-90 gear lubricant.
²Lubricant for Model 35 axle with Trailer Tow is
SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.
²Trac-Lok differentials add 4 oz. of friction modifier.
²Lubricant quantity is 1.66 L (3.50 pts.).
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
additional information.
CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 1).Allow the sealant
to cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes af-
ter applying the sealant. If not installed the
sealant must be removed and another bead ap-
plied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear Lu-
bricant to bottom of the fill plug hole.
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 13

LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
Multi-purpose, hypoid gear lubricant should be
used in the 8 1/4 inch axle. The lubricant should
have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifica-
tions. MOPARtHypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to
both of these specifications.
²The factory installed lubricant for the 8 1/4 inch
rear axle is SAE 80W 90 gear lubricant.
²The factory installed lubricant quantity is 6762
fluid oz.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
additional information.
CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Position support stands un-
der the frame rails slightly in front the springs.
(2) Remove the rear wheels.
(3) Mark the drive shaft yoke and axle pinion yoke
for alignment reference. Disconnect the drive shaft
from the axle.
(4) Disconnect the axle vent hose.
(5) Disconnect the parking brake cables at the
equalizer or backing plate.
(6) Disconnect the shock absorbers from the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.Do not disconnect the wheel cylinder tub-
ing fittings.
(8) If equipped, disconnect ABS wiring connections
at the axle.
(9) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential.
(10) Remove the spring U-bolts from the plate
brackets.
(11) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.(1) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the axle and align the spring center bolts
with the locating holes in the axle pads and plate
brackets.
(3) Install the spring U-bolts through the plate
brackets and tighten to 70 Nzm (52 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install ABS wiring connections (if equipped) at
the axle.
(5) Connect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.
(6) Install the shock absorbers to the axle brackets
and tighten to 62 Nzm (46 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Connect the parking brake cables at the equal-
izer or backing plate.
(8) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(9) Align the reference marks and connect the
drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tighten the U-joint
clamp bolts to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Check differential lubricant and add if neces-
sary.
(11) Install the wheel and tire.
(12) Bleed the brakes.
(13) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 2). Allow the sealant to
cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes after
applying the sealant. If not installed the sealant
must be removed and another bead applied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear
Lubricant 13 mm (1/2 in.) below the fill plug hole.
With Trac-Lok differentials, add a container of Mopar
Hypoid Gear Lubricant Additive.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 31

fied. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re-
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down
(and is not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB
Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is in-
volved. However, when both rear wheels are affected,
the master cylinder could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH
DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is caused by water soaked lining. If
the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driving with
the brakes lightly applied for a mile or two. However,
if the lining is both wet and dirty, disassembly and
cleaning will be necessary.
CONTAMINATED BRAKELINING
Brakelining contaminated by water is salvageable.
The lining can either be air dried or dried using heat.
In cases where brakelining is contaminated by oil,
grease, or brake fluid, the lining should be replaced.
Replacement is especially necessary when fluids/lu-
bricants have actually soaked into the lining mate-
rial. However, grease or dirt that gets onto the lining
surface (from handling) during brake repairs, can be
cleaned off. Spray the lining surface clean with Mo-
par brake cleaner.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
There are two basic causes of brake fluid contami-
nation. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or
other materials to enter the cylinder reservoirs when
the cover is off. The second involves adding non-rec-
ommended fluids to the cylinder reservoirs.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction gun
but only if the brakes have not been applied. If the
brakes are applied after contamination, system flush-
ing will be required. The master cylinder may also
have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston seals
replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reservoir
compensator/return ports can cause brake drag by re-
stricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid may appear discolored, milky, oily looking, or
foamy. However, remember that brake fluid will
darken in time and occasionally be cloudy in appear-ance. These are normal conditions and should not be
mistaken for contamination.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Factory installed brakelining is made from as-
bestos free materials. These materials have dif-
ferent operating characteristics than previous
lining material. Under certain conditions, as-
bestos free lining may generate some squeak,
groan or chirp noise. This noise is considered
normal and does not indicate a problem. The
only time inspection is necessary, is when noise
becomes constant or when grinding, scraping
noises occur.
Constant brake squeak or squeal may be due to lin-
ings that are wet or contaminated with brake fluid,
grease, or oil. Glazed linings, rotors/drums with hard
spots, and dirt/foreign material embedded in the
brake lining also cause squeak. Loud squeak, squeal,
scraping, or grinding sounds are a sign of severely
worn brake lining. If the lining has worn completely
through in spots, metal-to-metal contact occurs.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out, im-
properly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.
Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 7

COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
page page
DIAGNOSIS............................. 4
ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS......... 38
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER.................. 44GENERAL INFORMATION.................. 1
SERVICE PROCEDURES.................. 13
SPECIFICATIONS........................ 45
GENERAL INFORMATION
Throughout this group, references are made to par-
ticular vehicle models by alphabetical designation
(XJ or YJ) or by the particular vehicle nameplate. A
chart showing a breakdown of alphabetical designa-
tions is included in the Introduction section at the
beginning of this manual.
COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible, maintains
normal operating temperature and prevents over-
heating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
An optional factory installed heavy duty cooling
package is available on most models. The package
consists of a radiator that has an increased number
of cooling fins. XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6-cyl-inder engine and heavy duty cooling and/or air con-
ditioning also have an auxiliary electric cooling fan.
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of:
²A radiator
²Cooling fan (mechanical and/or electrical)
²Thermal viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an auto-
matic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
SYSTEM COOLANT ROUTING
For cooling system flow routings, refer to Figs. 1, 2,
3or4.
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 1

SERVICE PROCEDURES
INDEX
page page
Auxiliary Electric Cooling FanÐXJ Models with 4.0L
6-Cylinder Engine....................... 35
Coolant................................. 20
Coolant Reserve/Overflow System............. 24
Cooling System Cleaning/Reverse Flushing...... 22
Cooling System Fans...................... 32
Cooling System Hoses..................... 32
Draining Cooling System.................... 21
Radiator Pressure Cap..................... 25
Radiators............................... 26Refilling Cooling System.................... 21
Testing Cooling System for Leaks............. 22
Thermostat.............................. 17
Transmission Oil Coolers.................... 36
Viscous Fan Drive......................... 34
Water Pump Tests......................... 13
Water PumpsÐGeneral Information............ 13
Water PumpsÐRemoval/Installation........... 14
WATER PUMPSÐGENERAL INFORMATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
drive belt on all engines.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has a small hole to allow seep-
age to escape. The water pump seals are lubricated
by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No addi-
tional lubrication is necessary.
CAUTION: All engines are equipped with a reverse
(counter-clockwise) rotating water pump and vis-
cous fan drive assembly. REVERSE is stamped or
imprinted on the cover of the viscous fan drive and
inner side of the fan. The letter R is stamped into
the back of the water pump impeller (Fig. 1).
Engines from previous model years, depending
upon application, may have been equipped with a for-
ward (clockwise) rotating water pump. Installation of
the wrong water pump will cause engine overheating.
A quick test to determine if the pump is working is
to check if the heater warms properly. A defective wa-
ter pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
WATER PUMP TESTS
LOOSE IMPELLER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) Loosen the fan belt(s).
(3) Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the
water pump.
(4) Bend a stiff clothes hanger or welding rod as
shown in (Fig. 2).
(5) Position the rod in the water pump inlet and
attempt to hold the impeller while turning the fan
blades. If equipped with a viscous fan drive, turn the
water pump shaft with a breaker bar and socket at-
tached to a mounting flange nut. If the impeller is
loose and can be held with the rod while the fan
blades are turning, the pump is defective. If the im-
peller turns, the pump is OK.
Connect the hose and install the coolant, or proceed
with repairs.
Fig. 1 Reverse Rotating Water PumpÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 13

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the replacement thermostat so that the
pellet, which is encircled by a coil spring, faces the
engine. All thermostats are marked on the outer
flange to indicate the proper installed position.
(a) Observe the recess groove in the engine cylin-
der head (Fig. 18).
(b) Position thermostat into this groove with ar-
row and air bleed hole on outer flange pointing up.
(2) Install replacement gasket and thermostat
housing.
CAUTION: Tightening the thermostat housing un-
evenly or with the thermostat out of its recess may
result in a cracked housing.(3) Tighten the housing bolts to 20 Nzm (15 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install hoses to thermostat housing.
(5) Install electrical connector to coolant tempera-
ture sensor.
(6) Be sure that the radiator draincock is tightly
closed. Fill the cooling system to the correct level
with the required coolant mixture. Refer to Refilling
Cooling System in this group.
(7) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 15 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 16 Clamp Number/Letter Location
Fig. 17 Thermostat Removal/Installation
Fig. 18 Thermostat Recess
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 19

WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inner part of the filler neck and examine
the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint,
dirt and solder residue. Inspect the reserve/overflow
tank tube for internal obstructions. Insert a wire
through the tube to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside part of the filler
neck. If the cams are bent, seating of pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected. Replace cap if
cams are bent.
Attach pressure tester 7700 (or an equivalent) to
the radiator filler neck (Fig. 21).Operate the tester pump to apply 124 kPa (18 psi)
pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge exces-
sively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary.
Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condi-
tion of the cooling system according to the following
criteria:
²Holds Steady: If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, there are no serious coolant leaks in
the system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. Inspect for interior leakage or do the Internal
Leakage Test. Do this if it is certain that coolant is
being lost and no leaks can be detected.
²Drops Slowly: Shows a small leak or seepage is oc-
curring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight
leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the radiator, hoses,
gasket edges and heater. Seal any small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant or equivalent. Repair leak
holes and reinspect the system with pressure ap-
plied.
²Drops Quickly: Shows that a serious leakage is oc-
curring. Examine the system for serious external
leakage. If no leaks are visible, inspect for internal
leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired
by a reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. Coolant, being heavier
than engine oil, will drain first. Another way of test-
ing is to operate the engine and check for water glob-
ules on the engine oil dipstick. Also inspect the
automatic transmission oil dipstick for water glob-
ules. Inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler
for leakage. Operate the engine without the pressure
cap on the radiator until thermostat opens.
Attach a pressure tester to the filler neck. If pres-
sure builds up quickly, a leak exists as a result of a
faulty cylinder head gasket or crack in the engine.
Repair as necessary.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EX-
CEED 124 KPA (18 PSI). TURN THE ENGINE OFF.
TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE, ROCK THE TESTER
FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING THE
TESTER, DO NOT TURN THE TESTER MORE THAN
1/2 TURN IF THE SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
If there is no immediate pressure increase, pump
the pressure tester until the indicated pressure is
within the system range. Vibration of the gauge
pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage
into the cooling system.
WARNING: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE SPARK
PLUG WIRES WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING.
Fig. 20 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
Fig. 21 Pressurizing SystemÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 23

CAUTION: Do not operate the engine with a spark
plug shorted for more than a minute. The catalytic
converter may be damaged.
Isolate the compression leak by shorting each
spark plug to the cylinder block. The gauge pointer
should stop or decrease vibration when spark plug
for leaking cylinder is shorted. This happens because
of the absence of combustion pressure.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST (WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER)
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow for thermostat re-
moval. Refer to Thermostat Replacement. Disconnect
the water pump drive belt.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the ther-
mostat housing. Remove the housing and thermostat.
Install the thermostat housing.
Add coolant to the radiator to bring the level to
within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat
housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate the
engine for an excessive period of time. Open the
draincock immediately after the test to eliminate
boil over of coolant.
Start the engine and accelerate rapidly three times
(to approximately 3000 rpm) while observing the
coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leak-
ing into the cooling system, bubbles will appear in
the coolant. If bubbles do not appear, there is no in-
ternal combustion gas leakage.
COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW SYSTEM
The system works along with the radiator pressure
cap. This is done by using thermal expansion and
contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. It provides:
²A volume for coolant expansion and contraction.
²A convenient and safe method for checking/adjust-
ing coolant level at atmospheric pressure. This is
done without removing the radiator pressure cap.
²Some reserve coolant to the radiator to cover mi-
nor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and re-
turned to a proper level in the radiator.
The coolant reserve/overflow system consists of a
radiator mounted pressurized cap, a plastic reserve/
overflow tank (Figs. 22, 23 or 24), a tube (hose) con-
necting the radiator and tank, and an overflow tube
on the side of the tank.
Fig. 22 Reserve/Overflow TankÐYJ Models
Fig. 23 Reserve/Overflow TankÐXJ ModelsÐExcept
Right Hand Drive
7 - 24 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Also refer to the previous section on Cooling Sys-
tem Fans.
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 38 or 39) is a
silicone-fluid-filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to either the engine or the water pump shaft.
The coupling allows the fan to be driven in a normal
manner. This is done at low engine speeds while lim-
iting the top speed of the fan to a predetermined
maximum level at higher engine speeds.
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (a typical
viscous unit is shown in figure 40). This spring coil
reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge
air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan
speed if the air temperature from the radiator rises
above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling
is necessary, the fan will remain at a reduced rpm re-
gardless of engine speed.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the bi-
metallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.
Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again re-
acts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous dis-
engaged speed.
CAUTION: Engines equipped with serpentine drive
belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous fan
drives. They are marked with the word REVERSE to
designate their usage. Installation of the wrong fan
or viscous fan drive can result in engine overheat-
ing.CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced be-
cause of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
NOISE
It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²The underhood temperature is above the engage-
ment point for the viscous drive coupling. This may
occur when ambient (outside air temperature) is very
high.
²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is be-
ing redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
TESTING
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE
FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the
top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem
(or equivalent). It should have a range of -18É-to-
105ÉC (0É-to-220É F). Insert thermometer through the
hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate
clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition
timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe
light).
(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure
a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air con-
ditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the
plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.
Fig. 40 Typical Viscous Fan Drive
7 - 34 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ