brake pads MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER 2006 Service Manual

HOIST
A vehicle can be lifted with:
²A single-post, frame-contact hoist.
²A twin-post, chassis hoist.
²A ramp-type, drive-on hoist.
NOTE: When a frame-contact type hoist is used,
verify that the lifting pads are positioned properly.
The forward lifting pads should be positioned
against the forward flange of the transmission
crossmember brackets at the bottom of the frame
rail. The real lifting pads should be wedged
between the forward flange of the leaf spring
bracket and the frame rail. Safety stands should be
placed under the frame rails at the front and rear
ends.
JUMP STARTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP STARTING
WARNING: REVIEW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
AND WARNINGS IN THE BATTERY SYSTEM SEC-
TION OF THE SERVICE MANUAL. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
²DO NOT JUMP START A FROZEN BATTERY,
PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.²IF EQUIPPED, DO NOT JUMP START WHEN
MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY INDICATOR DOT IS
YELLOW OR BRIGHT COLOR.
²DO NOT JUMP START A VEHICLE WHEN THE
BATTERY FLUID IS BELOW THE TOP OF LEAD
PLATES.
²DO NOT ALLOW JUMPER CABLE CLAMPS TO
TOUCH EACH OTHER WHEN CONNECTED TO A
BOOSTER SOURCE.
²DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR BATTERY.
²REMOVE METALLIC JEWELRY WORN ON
HANDS OR WRISTS TO AVOID INJURY BY ACCI-
DENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY CURRENT.
²WHEN USING A HIGH OUTPUT BOOSTING
DEVICE, DO NOT ALLOW BATTERY VOLTAGE TO
EXCEED 16 VOLTS. REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS
PROVIDED WITH DEVICE BEING USED.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
CAUTION: When using another vehicle as a
booster, do not allow vehicles to touch. Electrical
systems can be damaged on either vehicle.
TO JUMP START A DISABLED VEHICLE:
(1) Raise hood on disabled vehicle and visually
inspect engine compartment for:
²Battery cable clamp condition, clean if necessary.
²Frozen battery.
²Yellow or bright color test indicator, if equipped.
²Low battery fluid level.
²Generator drive belt condition and tension.
²Fuel fumes or leakage, correct if necessary.
CAUTION: If the cause of starting problem on dis-
abled vehicle is severe, damage to booster vehicle
charging system can result.
(2) When using another vehicle as a booster
source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach.
Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake, place
the automatic transmission in PARK or the manual
transmission in NEUTRAL and turn the ignition
OFF.
(3) On disabled vehicle, place gear selector in park
or neutral and set park brake. Turn off all accesso-
ries.
(4) Connect jumper cables to booster battery. RED
clamp to positive terminal (+). BLACK clamp to neg-
ative terminal (-). DO NOT allow clamps at opposite
end of cables to touch, electrical arc will result.
Review all warnings in this procedure.
(5) On disabled vehicle, connect RED jumper cable
clamp to positive (+) terminal. Connect BLACK
jumper cable clamp to engine ground as close to the
ground cable attaching point as possible.
Fig. 2 HOIST LOCATIONS
1 - TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER SUPPORT
2 - REAR LEAF SPRING MOUNT - FRONT
3 - TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER
0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEVA

SCOPE OF WORK FOR MAINTENANCE SERVICE
Oil Service
²Engine: Oil change and filter replacement
Check fluid levels of the following system, refill as neces-
sary.
²If fluid is lost, trace and eliminate cause - as a
separate order.
²Power-assisted steering
Lubrication work:
²Trailer tow hitch (original equipment)
Maintenance
²ASSYST maintenance computer reset
Function check
²Signalling system, warning and indicator lamps
²Headlamps, exterior lighting
²Windshield wipers, windshield washer system
Check for leaks and damage
²Check for abrasion points and ensure that lines
are correctly routed!
²All lines and hoses, sensor cables
²Rubber boots on front axle drive shafts, rubber
boots on front axle suspension ball joints, shock
absorbers
²Check fluid levels for the following systems, cor-
rect as necessary
NOTE: Should there be a loss of fluid which cannot
be explained by regular use, trace and eliminate the
cause.
²Engine cooling system. Check corrosion inhibi-
tor/antifreeze, refill as necessary.
²Hydraulic brake system
²Battery
²Windshield washer system
Engine
²Fuel filter renewal - Every oil service
²Air cleaner with maintenance indicator:
²Check degree of contamination.
²Air cleaner filter element renewed as necessary.
Chassis and body
²Trailer coupling: Check operation, play and
retaining fixtures
²Secondary rubber springs: Visual check
²Tire pressures: Correct as necessary, including
spare tire
²Check thickness of brake pads
²Brake test
²Check condition of steering mechanism
²Heating/ventilation dust filter renewal
ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE WORK
Automatic transmission once only at 80,000 miles / 128000
km
²Oil and filter change
During every second maintenance service
²Air cleaner without maintenance indicator:
²Air cleaner filter element renewal
²Check poly-V-belt for wear and signs of damage
During every fourth maintenance service
²Change rear axle fluid
ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE WORK AFTER YEARS
Every 2 years
²Change brake fluid.
Every 3 years
²Air cleaner filter element renewal (note installa-
tion date)
Every 15 years or 100,000 miles
²Coolant renewal
²Note coolant composition
INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
DESCRIPTION
DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses international
symbols to identify engine compartment lubricant
and fluid inspection and fill locations (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
VALUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 9

INSTALLATION - SINGLE REAR WHEEL
(1) Install sealing ring.
(2) Install axle shaft (1) in the axle tube (2) (Fig.
7).
(3) Installnewbearing cap (2) bolts (1) and
tighten to 72 N´m (53 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Tighten bolts diagonally across.
(4) Install brake control cable lock.
(5) Install parking brake shoes.
(6) Install brake disk and calipers.
(7) Coat clamping bush with acid-free grease.
Insert ABS sensor with clamping bush fully into the
mounting hole.
(8) Install front brake cable.(9) Operate brake pedal several times until brake
pads contact brake discs (brake pressure built up).
(10) Install wheels.
BEARING / SEAL - AXLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove rear axle shaft.
(2) With a punch (2) and hammer straighten bear-
ing (4) nut (1) locking ring (3) (Fig. 9).
(3) Install two wheel mounting bolts into the axle
shaft (1) and clamp in vise. Loosen bearing (4) nut
(2) with Wrench 9279 (3) (Fig. 10).
Fig. 7 AXLE SHAFT AND TUBE
1 - AXLE SHAFT
2 - AXLE TUBE
3 - AXLE BEARINGS
4 - DUST SHIELD
Fig. 8 BEARING CAP BOLTS
1 - BEARING CAP BOLTS
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - AXLE SHAFT FLANGE
Fig. 9 LOCKING RING
1 - BEARING NUT
2 - PUNCH
3 - LOCKING RING
4 - BEARING
Fig. 10 BEARING NUT WRENCH
1 - AXLE SHAFT
2 - BEARING NUT
3 - WRENCH
4 - BEARING
3 - 24 REAR AXLEVA

SEAL - PINION
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheels.
(2) Push back brake pads and release hand brake.
NOTE: If it is not possible to spin rear axle shafts
manually, detach rear brake cables.
(3) Drain rear axle oil.
NOTE: On dual rear wheel axle remove axle shafts.
(4) Remove propeller shaft.
(5) Spin pinion flange by hand and check axial
play of bearing.
CAUTION: There must not be any thrust bearing
play. If play excess or there are particles (shavings)
in the drained oil, replace gear assembly.
(6) Measure and record torque to rotate the pinion.
(7) Mark pinion position to pinion flange (1) (Fig.
57).
(8) Unlock collared nut.
(9) Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Wrench
C-3281 and remove nut.(10) Remove pinion flange (1) from pinion shaft
with Flange Puller 8992 (2) (Fig. 58).
(11) Check sealing surfaces of joint flange for score
marks and replace joint flange if necessary.
(12) Remove pinion seal/seals (1) (Fig. 59).
Fig. 57 COLLARED NUT
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - COLLARED NUT
Fig. 58 FLANGE PULLER
1 - FLANGE PULLER
2 - PINION FLANGE
Fig. 59 PINION SEALS
1 - SEALS
2 - AXLE
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 39

(13) Connect propeller shaft to pinion flange.
NOTE: On dual rear wheel axle install axle shafts.
(14) Pour in oil up to bottom edge of oil filler hole
(1) (Fig. 63).
(15) Screw in oil filler plug (1) and tighten to 100
N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(16) Install wheels at rear axle.
(17) Operate brake pedal several times until brake
pads contact brake discs (brake pressure built up).
(18) Attach rear brake cables if removed and
adjust parking brake.
GEAR - PINION / RING
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are serviced in a
matched set. Never replace one gear without replac-
ing the other gear.
(1) Remove differential from housing.
(2) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw.
(3) Remove ring gear bolts from the differential
case.
(4) Drive ring gear off the differential case with a
dead-blow hammer (Fig. 64).(5) Unlock collared nut.
(6) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench C-3281
and remove nut.
(7) Remove pinion flange from pinion shaft with
Puller 8892 and Wrench C-3281 (Fig. 65).
(8) Remove pinion gear from housing with a dead-
blow hammer.
(9) Remove pinion shaft seal with a seal pick.
(10) Remove front pinion bearing.
(11) Remove front pinion bearing cup with
Remover D-103 and Handle C-4171.
(12) Remove rear pinion bearing cup with Remover
9084 and Handle C-4171.
(13) Remove pinion depth shim from rear pinion
bearing cup bore.
(14) Remove collapsible spacer (Fig. 66).
Fig. 63 FILL PLUG
1 - FILL PLUG
2 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 64 RING GEAR
1 - CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - DEAD-BLOW HAMMER
Fig. 65 FLANGE PULLER
1 - FLANGE PULLER
2 - PINION FLANGE
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 41

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - BASE........................... 1BRAKES - ABS........................... 30
BRAKES - BASE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM.............................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL
BLEEDING............................4
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING............................5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE CHART.......5
BASE BRAKE.........................6
SPECIAL TOOLS
BRAKES.............................7
BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING . . . 8
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE
INVERTED FLARING....................8
BRAKE PADS/SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)...............8
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)...............9
REMOVAL - REAR (16º WHEELS) (SRW)....9
REMOVAL - REAR (15º WHEELS) (SRW) . . . 10
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............10
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)...........11
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........11
INSTALLATION - REAR (16º WHEELS)
(SRW) ..............................11
INSTALLATION - REAR (16º WHEELS)
(SRW) ..............................11
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........11
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............11
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............12
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............12
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............13INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........13
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........13
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........14
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........14
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................14
REMOVAL - REAR.....................14
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................14
INSTALLATION - REAR.................14
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION.....................15
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL..............................15
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID........................15
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................15
INSTALLATION.........................15
ALB LEVER
REMOVAL.............................16
INSTALLATION.........................16
ALB CONTROLLER
REMOVAL.............................16
INSTALLATION.........................16
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................16
MASTER CYLINDER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........17
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................18
REMOVAL.............................18
INSTALLATION.........................19
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................19
INSTALLATION.........................19
VABRAKES 5 - 1

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............20
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............20
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............21
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............21
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........22
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........22
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR......................23
INSTALLATION - REAR...................23
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................23
SPECIAL TOOLS
PARK BRAKE........................24
CABLE TENSIONER
REMOVAL.............................24INSTALLATION.........................24
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................24
REMOVAL - REAR.....................25
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................25
INSTALLATION - REAR.................26
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 26
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)....................27
REMOVAL - (DRW)....................27
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....28
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW).................28
INSTALLATION - (DRW).................28
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................28
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE SYS-
TEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEVA

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3

As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfacesafter a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK / SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP / CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use approved brake fluid (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIP-
TION). Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container
at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA

BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 2). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 2).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steeltube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 3).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)
(1) Unscrew the cap from the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the wear indicator cable and the wear
indicator (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 3 Inverted Flare Tools
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEVA