wheel bolts MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1991 Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: MITSUBISHI, Model Year: 1991, Model line: MONTERO, Model: MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1991Pages: 1333, PDF Size: 24.61 MB
Page 774 of 1333
UPPER CONTROL ARM R & I
REMOVAL
1) Remove shock absorber. Support lower control arm with jack
stand. Remove wheel assembly. Loosen anchor bolt lock nut. See Fig. 1.
2) Mark anchor bolt for reassembly reference. Loosen anchor
bolt to release torsion bar tension. Disconnect and plug brake hose at
frame mount bracket. Remove cotter pin from ball joint stud. Loosen
but DO NOT remove ball joint stud knuckle nut.
3) Using ball joint fork, loosen ball joint from steering
knuckle. Remove ball joint stud nut. Remove rebound stopper and brake
hose support from control arm. Remove upper control arm mounting
bolts. Note direction of bolt installation and location of camber
adjustment shims. Remove control arm.
4) If clearance is inadequate for control arm removal, move
control arm toward rear of vehicle and pull out front part of arm.
Rotate control arm pivot shaft and remove arm. If arm still cannot be
removed, loosen 10 front body mounting nuts. Raise body and remove
arm.
NOTE: On Montero, rotating control arm shaft will alter caster
setting.
INSPECTION
1) Inspect control arm for cracks or deformation. On Montero,
mount control arm in soft-jawed vise using control arm shaft. Attach
spring scale to upper end of control arm, near ball joint.
2) Using spring scale, measure starting torque required to
rotate control arm on the shaft. Replace control arm if starting
torque exceeds 1.4 lbs. (6.5 N).
3) On all models, check ball joints. See BALL JOINT CHECKING
under ADJUSTMENTS & INSPECTION. Inspect ball joint dust cover for
damage and replace as necessary.
INSTALLATION
1) To install, reverse removal procedure. On Montero, ensure
control arm shaft is correctly positioned before installing. Rotate
control arm shaft to obtain correct measurement. See Fig. 6.
Fig. 6: Positioning Upper Control Arm Shaft (Montero)
Courtesy of Mitsubishi Motor Sales of America.
2) On Ram-50 & Pickup, install control arm-to-crossmember
bolts from the inside of crossmember, with nuts against control arm
Page 775 of 1333
shaft.
3) On Montero, install control arm-to-crossmember bolts from
the outside of control arm, with nuts against crossmember.
4) Ensure alignment shims are placed in original location.
When installing shock absorber, ensure White paint mark on lower end
of shock faces toward the outside of vehicle. Tighten shock absorber
upper nut until distance from end of threads to nut is .27-.31" (7-8
mm). Install shock lock nut.
5) Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article. Bleed brakes. Adjust anchor bolt to proper
torsion bar setting. See TORSION BAR under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
Check wheel alignment and adjust if necessary.
WHEEL BEARINGS R & I
REMOVAL
1) Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove
caliper assembly. Remove locking hub. See LOCKING HUB under REMOVAL &
INSTALLATION.
2) Remove lock washer. Using Socket (MB990954), remove lock
nut. Remove front hub assembly from steering knuckle.
3) Remove oil seal and bearings from hub. If bearing races
need to be replaced, drive bearing races from hub using brass drift
and hammer.
INSTALLATION
1) Before installing, lubricate outside surfaces of bearing
outer races with grease. Install bearing outer races in hub. Ensure
bearing races are fully seated.
2) Pack bearings with grease. Install inner bearing in hub.
On Montero, install seal in hub using Seal Installer (MB990955). On
Pickup, use Seal Installer (MB990985).
3) Install seal until seal is even with hub surface. To
complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Adjust wheel
bearings. See WHEEL BEARINGS under ADJUSTMENTS & INSPECTION. Tighten
bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE \
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Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Anchor Bolt Lock Nut ............. 29-36 (39-49)
Automatic Hub Cover .............. 13-25 (18-34)
Ball Joint Nut
Lower ....................... 87-130 (118-176)
Upper .......................... 43-65 (58-88)
Ball Joint-to-Lower
Control Arm Bolt ............... 39-54 (53-73)
Caliper Bolt ..................... 58-72 (79-98)
Control Arm-to-Frame Bolt
Lower ................. ( 1) 101-116 (137-157)
Upper ......................... 72-87 (98-118)
Locking Hub-to-Hub/Rotor Bolt .... 36-43 (49-58)
Manual Hub Cover Bolt .................. 10 (14)
Shock Absorber Lower Mount Bolt
Montero ........................ 11-16 (15-22)
Ram-50 & Pickup ...................... 10 (14)
Page 1170 of 1333
\003
TR AN SM IS SIO N R EM OVA L & IN STA LLA TIO N - A /T
1991 M it s u bis h i M onte ro
1991 92 TRANSMISSION SERVICING
Transmission Removal & Installation
Mitsubishi: Eclipse, Galant, Mirage, Montero,
Pickup, Precis, 3000GT
MANUAL
NOTE: For manual transmission/transaxle replacement procedures,
see appropriate article in CLUTCHES.
AUTOMATIC FWD MODELS
REMOVAL
1) Remove battery and battery tray. On 3000GT, remove
undercover(s). On Eclipse turbo, drain and remove intercooler. On all
models, remove air cleaner and case. Raise and support vehicle. Remove
wheels. Disconnect control cables at transaxle. Drain transaxle fluid.
2) On Mirage 1.6L, disconnect tension rod. On all models,
disconnect neutral safety switch connector, oil cooler hoses and
electrical connectors from transaxle. Disconnect speedometer cable and
throttle control cable (if equipped). Remove starter motor.
3) On Galant models with electronically controlled
suspension, remove air compressor and bracket. Disconnect front height
sensor rod at lower control arm.
4) On all models, remove upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Remove engine undercover (if equipped). On all models, remove drive
axle shafts. See FWD AXLE SHAFTS article in DRIVE AXLES. Separate
lower control arms from struts for access to axle shafts (if
necessary).
5) Remove front exhaust pipe (if necessary). On Eclipse 4WD,\
Galant 4WD and 3000GT, remove right member and gusset. On 4WD models,
separate transfer assembly from transaxle. Reference mark transfer
assembly-to-drive shaft and remove transfer assembly.
6) On all models, remove transmission inspection (dust)
cover. Place index mark on torque converter and drive plate for
reassembly reference. Remove torque converter-to-drive plate bolts.
Push torque converter away from engine into transaxle.
7) Support transaxle with jack. Remove transaxle mounts
bolts, mounting brackets and remaining transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Slide transaxle assembly to right and lower to remove.
CAUTION: Ensure torque converter is fully seated in transaxle before
installation. Always install new snap rings on inner
constant velocity joints.
INSTALLATION
1) To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten transaxle-
to-engine bolts and torque converter-to-drive plate bolts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of article.
2) Ensure reference marks on torque converter-to-drive plate
and transfer assembly-to-drive shaft align. Tighten mounting bolts
with weight of engine and transaxle on mounts. Refill transaxle fluid
to specified level. Adjust all control cables.
RWD MODELS
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![MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1991 Owners Manual \
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Starter Drive Starter motor loose on")
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Starter Drive Starter motor loose on Tighten starter
Will Not mountings attach bolts
Disengage
Worn drive end bushing See STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel Replace flywheel and
teeth starter pinion gear for
damage
Drive yolk return spring Replace return spring
broken or missing
Faulty ignition switch Replace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance Replace starter
between winding leads to solenoid
solenoid terminal and main
contact in solenoid
Starter clutch not Replace starter clutch
disengaging
Ignition starter switch Replace ignition switch
contacts sticking
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Starter Relay Faulty solenoid switch, Check all wiring
Operates but switch connections or between relay and
Solenoid Does Not solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as
necessary
Broken lead or loose Repair wire or wire
soldered connections connections as
necessary
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Solenoid Plunger Weak battery Charge or replace
Vibrates When battery as necessary
Switch is Engaged
Solenoid contacts Clean contacts or
corroded replace solenoid
Faulty wiring Check all wiring
leading to solenoid
Broken connections inside Repair connections or
switch cover replace solenoid
Open hold-in wire Replace solenoid
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Low Current Draw Worn brushes or weak Replace brushes or
brush springs as
necessary
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High Pitched Whine Distance too great Align starter or check
During Cranking between starter that correct starter
Before Engine pinion and flywheel and flywheel are being
Fires but Engine used
Fires and Cranks
Normally
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High Pitched Distance too small between
Whine After Engine starter pinion and flywheel
Page 1198 of 1333
![MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1991 Owners Manual Fires With Key Flywheel runout contributes
released. Engine to the intermittent nature
Fires and Cranks
Normally
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released. Engine to the intermittent nature
Fires and Cranks
Normally
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Fires With Key Flywheel runout contributes
released. Engine to the intermittent nature
Fires and Cranks
Normally
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AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT
AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING
WARNING: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE \
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Compressor Not Working
Compressor clutch circuit open.
Compressor clutch coil inoperative.
Poor clutch ground connection.
Fan belts loose.
Thermostatic switch inoperative.
Thermostatic switch not adjusted.
Ambient temperature switch open.
Superheat fuse blown. \
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Excessive Noise or Vibration
Missing or loose mounting bolts.
Bad idler pulley bearings.
Fan belts not tightened correctly.
Compressor clutch contacting body.
Excessive system pressure.
Compressor oil level low.
Damaged clutch bearings.
Damaged reed valves.
Damaged compressor. \
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Insufficient or No Cooling;
Compressor Working
Expansion valve inoperative.
Heater control valve stuck open.
Low system pressure.
Blocked condenser fins.
Blocked evaporator fins.
Vacuum system leak.
Vacuum motors inoperative.
Control cables improperly adjusted.
Restricted air inlet.
Mode doors binding.
Blower motor inoperative.
Temperature above system capacity. \
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HEATER SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
Page 1207 of 1333
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ENGINES \
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High Oil Improper grade of oil Replace with proper oil
Pressure Oil pressure relief valve Eliminate binding
stuck closed
Oil pressure sender or Replace sender or gauge
gauge faulty
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Noisy Main Inadequate oil supply Check oil delivery to
Bearings main bearings
Excessive main bearing Replace main bearings,
clearance See ENGINES
Excessive crankshaft end Replace crankshaft, See
play ENGINES
Loose flywheel or torque Tighten attaching bolts
converter
Loose or damaged vibration Tighten or replace
damper vibration damper
Crankshaft journals Re-grind crankshaft
out-of-round journals
Excessive belt tension Loosen belt tension
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Noisy Connecting Excessive bearing clearance Replace bearing, See
Rods or missing bearing ENGINES
Crankshaft rod journal Re-grind crankshaft
out-of-round journal
Misaligned connecting rod Remove rod or cap and
or cap realign
Incorrectly tightened rod Remove and re-tighten
bolts rod bolts
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Noisy Pistons Excessive piston-to-bore Install larger pistons,
and Rings clearance See ENGINES
Bore tapered or out-of-round Rebore block
Piston ring broken Replace piston rings,
See ENGINES
Piston pin loose or seized Replace piston pin, See
ENGINES
Connecting rods misaligned Realign connecting rods
Ring side clearance too Replace with larger or
loose or tight smaller rings
Carbon build-up on piston Remove carbon
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Noisy Valve Worn or bent push rods Replace push rods, See
Train ENGINES
Worn rocker arms or bridged Replace push rods, See
pivots ENGINES
Dirt or chips in valve Remove lifters and
lifters remove dirt/chips
Excessive valve lifter Replace valve lifters,
leak-down See ENGINES
Valve lifter face worn Replace valve lifters,
See ENGINES
Broken or cocked valve replace or reposition
springs springs
Too much valve stem-to-guide Replace valve guides,
clearance See ENGINES
Valve bent Replace valve, See
ENGINES
Loose rocker arms Retighten rocker arms,
See ENGINES
Excessive valve seat Reface valve seats, See
run-out ENGINES
Page 1221 of 1333
Does Not Close battery as necessary
Faulty wiring Check all wiring and
connections leading to
relay
Neutral safety switch Replace neutral safety
faulty switch
Starter relay faulty Replace starter relay
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Starter Drive Starter motor loose on Tighten starter
Will Not mountings attach bolts
Disengage
Worn drive end bushing See STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel Replace flywheel and
teeth starter pinion gear for
damage
Drive yolk return spring Replace return spring
broken or missing
Faulty ignition switch Replace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance Replace starter
between winding leads to solenoid
solenoid terminal and main
contact in solenoid
Starter clutch not Replace starter clutch
disengaging
Ignition starter switch Replace ignition switch
contacts sticking
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Starter Relay Faulty solenoid switch, Check all wiring
Operates but switch connections or between relay and
Solenoid Does Not solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as
necessary
Broken lead or loose Repair wire or wire
soldered connections connections as
necessary
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Solenoid Plunger Weak battery Charge or replace
Vibrates When battery as necessary
Switch is Engaged
Solenoid contacts Clean contacts or
corroded replace solenoid
Faulty wiring Check all wiring
leading to solenoid
Broken connections inside Repair connections or
switch cover replace solenoid
Open hold-in wire Replace solenoid
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Low Current Draw Worn brushes or weak Replace brushes or
brush springs as
necessary
Page 1233 of 1333
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE")
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION \
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Chattering or Incorrect clutch adjustment Adjust clutch
Grabbing
Oil, grease or glaze on Disassemble and clean
facings or replace
Loose "U" joint flange See DRIVE AXLES
article
Worn input shaft spline Replace input shaft
Binding pressure plate Replace pressure plate
Binding release lever See CLUTCH article
Binding clutch disc hub Replace clutch disc
Unequal pressure plate Replace worn/misaligned
contact components
Loose/bent clutch disc Replace clutch disc
Incorrect transmission Realign transmission
alignment
Worn pressure plate, disc Replace damaged
or flywheel components
Broken or weak pressure Replace pressure
springs plate
Sticking clutch pedal Lubricate clutch pedal
& linkage
Incorrect clutch disc Replace clutch disc
facing
Engine loose in chassis Tighten all mounting
bolts
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Failure to Oil or grease on clutch Clean or replace clutch
Release facings clutch disc
Incorrect release lever or See CLUTCH article
pedal adjustment
Worn or broken clutch Replace clutch disc
facings
Bent clutch disc or Replace damaged
pressure plate components
Clutch disc hub binding on Clean or replace clutch
input shaft disc and/or input shaft
Binding pilot bearing Replace pilot bearing
Sticking release bearing Replace release bearing
sleeve and/or sleeve
Binding clutch cable See CLUTCH article
Page 1236 of 1333
In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may
sound like gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel
bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched
tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard
tires with an unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or
excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive
axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining
noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before
disassembling the drive axle.
Gear Noise
A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear
can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper
bearing preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving
conditions, or it can be continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear
noise, make sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been
checked as possible causes.
Chuckle
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick
against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while
decelerating from 40 MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes
to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the
vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused
by excessive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged
tooth on the coast side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small
tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough the cause
the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear
tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is
damaged or scored badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has
broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove
particles that could cause damage.
Knock
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder,
and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can be caused by a
gear tooth that is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion
gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause
knock. Knock can also be due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.
Clunk
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic
transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is
applied or released. It is caused by backlash somewhere in the
driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether
driveline clunk is caused by the axle, check the total axle backlash
as follows:
1) Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive
wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part
of the frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2) On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep
it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it
is felt to be in Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire
about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction
until it is again felt to be in Drive condition.
3) Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total
Page 1239 of 1333
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC FWD AXLE SHAFTS & CV JOINTS TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE \
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Grease Leaks CV boot torn or cracked \
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Clicking Noise on Cornering Damaged outer CV \
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Clunk Noise on Acceleration Damaged inner CV \
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Vibration or Shudder Sticking, damaged or worn CV
on Acceleration Misalignment or spring height
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STEERING & SUSPENSION
MANUAL STEERING GEAR TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC MANUAL STEERING GEAR TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION \
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Rattle or Rack and pinion mounting Tighten all mounting
Chucking Noise bracket loose bolts
in Rack and
Pinion Lack of/or incorrect Correct as necessary
lubricant
Steering gear mounting Tighten all mounting
bolts loose bolts
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Excessive Play Front wheel bearing See FRONT SUSPENSION
improperly adjusted article
Loose or worn steering See STEERING LINKAGE
linkage article
Loose or worn steering See MANUAL STEERING
gear shift GEAR article
Steering arm loose on See MANUAL STEERING
gear shaft GEAR article
Steering gear housing Tighten all mounting
bolts loose bolts
Steering gear adjustment See MANUAL STEERING
too loose GEAR article
Steering arms loose on Tighten and check