wheel MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1998 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: MITSUBISHI, Model Year: 1998, Model line: MONTERO, Model: MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1998Pages: 1501, PDF Size: 25.81 MB
Page 1377 of 1501
sluggish See DISC BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Master cylinder piston
stuck See MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake fade due to incorrect
pads for linings Replace pads or linings
Linings or pads glazed Replace pads or linings
Worn drums Reface or replace drums
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Excessive Pedal
Travel Partial brake system failure Check fluid and pipes
Insufficient fluid in
master cylinder See MASTER CYLINDERS or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Air trapped in system See BRAKE BLEEDING or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Rear brakes not adjusted See Adjustments in DRUM
BRAKES or BRAKE SYSTEM
Bent shoe or lining See DRUM BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Plugged master cylinder cap See MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Improper brake fluid Replace brake fluid
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Pedal Travel
Decreasing Compensating port plugged See MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Swollen cup in master
cylinder See MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Master cylinder piston
not returning See MASTER CYLINDERS
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Weak shoe retracting springs See DRUM BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM
Wheel cylinder piston
sticking See DRUM BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
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Dragging
Brakes Master cylinder pistons
not returning See MASTER CYLINDERS
BRAKE SYSTEM
Restricted brake lines
or hoses Check line routing
Incorrect parking brake
adjustment See DRUM BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM
Page 1383 of 1501
![MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1998 Service Manual ENGINES \
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ENGINES \
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High Oil Improper grade of oil Replace with proper oil
Pressure Oil pressure relief valve Eliminate binding
stuck closed
Oil pressure sender or Replace sender or gauge
gauge faulty
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Noisy Main Inadequate oil supply Check oil delivery to
Bearings main bearings
Excessive main bearing Replace main bearings,
clearance See ENGINES
Excessive crankshaft end Replace crankshaft, See
play ENGINES
Loose flywheel or torque Tighten attaching bolts
converter
Loose or damaged vibration Tighten or replace
damper vibration damper
Crankshaft journals Re-grind crankshaft
out-of-round journals
Excessive belt tension Loosen belt tension
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Noisy Connecting Excessive bearing clearance Replace bearing, See
Rods or missing bearing ENGINES
Crankshaft rod journal Re-grind crankshaft
out-of-round journal
Misaligned connecting rod Remove rod or cap and
or cap realign
Incorrectly tightened rod Remove and re-tighten
bolts rod bolts
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Noisy Pistons Excessive piston-to-bore Install larger pistons,
and Rings clearance See ENGINES
Bore tapered or out-of-round Rebore block
Piston ring broken Replace piston rings,
See ENGINES
Piston pin loose or seized Replace piston pin, See
ENGINES
Connecting rods misaligned Realign connecting rods
Ring side clearance too Replace with larger or
loose or tight smaller rings
Carbon build-up on piston Remove carbon
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Noisy Valve Worn or bent push rods Replace push rods, See
Train ENGINES
Worn rocker arms or bridged Replace push rods, See
pivots ENGINES
Dirt or chips in valve Remove lifters and
lifters remove dirt/chips
Excessive valve lifter Replace valve lifters,
leak-down See ENGINES
Valve lifter face worn Replace valve lifters,
See ENGINES
Broken or cocked valve replace or reposition
springs springs
Too much valve stem-to-guide Replace valve guides,
clearance See ENGINES
Valve bent Replace valve, See
ENGINES
Loose rocker arms Retighten rocker arms,
See ENGINES
Excessive valve seat Reface valve seats, See
run-out ENGINES
Page 1395 of 1501
Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch
Open circuit between Check and repair wires
starter switch ignition and connections as
terminal on starter relay necessary
Starter relay or starter See Testing in STARTER
defective article
Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article
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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes
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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage
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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground
Page 1396 of 1501
connections for
tight and clean
connections
Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch as
necessary
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Starter Cranks Battery weak or Charge or replace
Engine Slowly defective battery as necessary
Engine overheated See ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM article
Engine oil too heavy Check that proper
viscosity oil
is used
Poor battery-to-starter Check that all
connections between
battery and starter are
clean and tight
Current draw too low or See Bench Tests in
too high STARTER article
Bent armature, loose pole See STARTER article
shoes screws or worn
bearings
Burned solenoid contacts Replace solenoid
Faulty starter Replace starter
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Starter Engages Engine timing too far See Ignition Timing in
Engine Only advanced TUNE-UP article
Momentarily
Overrunning clutch not Replace overrunning
engaging properly clutch. See STARTER
article
Broken starter clutch See STARTER article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check starter pinion
gear for damage
Weak drive assembly See STARTER article
thrust spring
Weak hold-in coil See Bench Tests in
STARTER article
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Starter Drive Defective point assembly See Testing in STARTER
Will Not Engage article
Poor point assembly ground See Testing in STARTER
article
Defective pull-in coil Replace starter
solenoid
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Starter Relay Dead battery Charge or replace
Page 1397 of 1501
Does Not Close battery as necessary
Faulty wiring Check all wiring and
connections leading to
relay
Neutral safety switch Replace neutral safety
faulty switch
Starter relay faulty Replace starter relay
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Starter Drive Starter motor loose on Tighten starter
Will Not mountings attach bolts
Disengage
Worn drive end bushing See STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel Replace flywheel and
teeth starter pinion gear for
damage
Drive yolk return spring Replace return spring
broken or missing
Faulty ignition switch Replace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance Replace starter
between winding leads to solenoid
solenoid terminal and main
contact in solenoid
Starter clutch not Replace starter clutch
disengaging
Ignition starter switch Replace ignition switch
contacts sticking
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Starter Relay Faulty solenoid switch, Check all wiring
Operates but switch connections or between relay and
Solenoid Does Not solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as
necessary
Broken lead or loose Repair wire or wire
soldered connections connections as
necessary
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Solenoid Plunger Weak battery Charge or replace
Vibrates When battery as necessary
Switch is Engaged
Solenoid contacts Clean contacts or
corroded replace solenoid
Faulty wiring Check all wiring
leading to solenoid
Broken connections inside Repair connections or
switch cover replace solenoid
Open hold-in wire Replace solenoid
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Low Current Draw Worn brushes or weak Replace brushes or
brush springs as
necessary
Page 1398 of 1501
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High Pitched Whine Distance too great](/img/19/57333/w960_57333-1397.png "MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1998 Service Manual \
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High Pitched Whine Distance too great")
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High Pitched Whine Distance too great Align starter or check
During Cranking between starter that correct starter
Before Engine pinion and flywheel and flywheel are being
Fires but Engine used
Fires and Cranks
Normally
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High Pitched Distance too small between
Whine After Engine starter pinion and flywheel
Fires With Key Flywheel runout contributes
released. Engine to the intermittent nature
Fires and Cranks
Normally
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TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING - GAS ENGINE VEHICLES
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC SPARK PLUG TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION \
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Normal Spark Light Tan or Gray deposits No Action
Plug Condition
Electrode not burned or No Action
fouled
Gap tolerance not changed No Action
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Cold Fouling or Overrich air/fuel mixture Adjust air/fuel
Carbon Deposits mixture, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE section
Faulty choke Replace choke
assembly, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE section
Clogged air filter Clean and/or replace
air filter
Incorrect idle speed or Reset idle speed and/
dirty carburetor or clean carburetor
Faulty ignition wires Replace ignition
wiring
Prolonged operation Shut engine off
at idle during long idle
Sticking valves or worn Check valve train
valve guide seals
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Wet Fouling Worn rings and pistons Install new rings and
or Oil Deposits pistons
Page 1409 of 1501
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE")
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION \
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Chattering or Incorrect clutch adjustment Adjust clutch
Grabbing
Oil, grease or glaze on Disassemble and clean
facings or replace
Loose "U" joint flange See DRIVE AXLES
article
Worn input shaft spline Replace input shaft
Binding pressure plate Replace pressure plate
Binding release lever See CLUTCH article
Binding clutch disc hub Replace clutch disc
Unequal pressure plate Replace worn/misaligned
contact components
Loose/bent clutch disc Replace clutch disc
Incorrect transmission Realign transmission
alignment
Worn pressure plate, disc Replace damaged
or flywheel components
Broken or weak pressure Replace pressure
springs plate
Sticking clutch pedal Lubricate clutch pedal
& linkage
Incorrect clutch disc Replace clutch disc
facing
Engine loose in chassis Tighten all mounting
bolts
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Failure to Oil or grease on clutch Clean or replace clutch
Release facings clutch disc
Incorrect release lever or See CLUTCH article
pedal adjustment
Worn or broken clutch Replace clutch disc
facings
Bent clutch disc or Replace damaged
pressure plate components
Clutch disc hub binding on Clean or replace clutch
input shaft disc and/or input shaft
Binding pilot bearing Replace pilot bearing
Sticking release bearing Replace release bearing
sleeve and/or sleeve
Binding clutch cable See CLUTCH article
Page 1411 of 1501
Dry or binding clutch Lubricate and align
pedal hub components
Floor mat interference Lay mat flat in proper
with pedal area
Dry or binding ball/fork Lubricate and align
pivots components
Faulty clutch cable Replace clutch cable
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Noisy Clutch Faulty interlock switch Replace interlock
Pedal switch
Self-adjuster ratchet Lubricate or replace
noise self-adjuster
Speed control interlock Lubricate or replace
switch interlock switch
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Clutch Pedal Binding clutch cable See CLUTCH article
Sticks Down
Springs weak in pressure Replace pressure plate
plate
Binding in clutch linkage Lubricate and free
linkage
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Noisy Dry release bearing Lubricate or replace
release bearing
Dry or worn pilot bearing Lubricate or replace
bearing
Worn input shaft bearing Replace bearing
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Transmission Weak springs in pressure Replace pressure plate
Click plate
Release fork loose on ball Replace release fork
stud and/or ball stud
Oil on clutch disc damper Replace clutch disc
Broken spring in slave Replace slave cylinder
cylinder
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DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Unrelated Noises
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the
engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other parts of the
vehicle. Ensure cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before
adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of its parts.
Non-Drive Axle Noises
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and
have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are
exhaust, tires, CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.
Page 1412 of 1501
In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may
sound like gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel
bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched
tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard
tires with an unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or
excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive
axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining
noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before
disassembling the drive axle.
Gear Noise
A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear
can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper
bearing preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving
conditions, or it can be continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear
noise, make sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been
checked as possible causes.
Chuckle
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick
against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while
decelerating from 40 MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes
to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the
vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused
by excessive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged
tooth on the coast side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small
tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough the cause
the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear
tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is
damaged or scored badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has
broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove
particles that could cause damage.
Knock
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder,
and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can be caused by a
gear tooth that is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion
gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause
knock. Knock can also be due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.
Clunk
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic
transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is
applied or released. It is caused by backlash somewhere in the
driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether
driveline clunk is caused by the axle, check the total axle backlash
as follows:
1) Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive
wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part
of the frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2) On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep
it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it
is felt to be in Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire
about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction
until it is again felt to be in Drive condition.
3) Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total
Page 1413 of 1501
axle backlash. If backlash is one inch or less, drive axle is not the
source of clunk noise.
Bearing Whine
Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle.
It is usually caused by malfunctioning pinion bearings. Pinion
bearings operate at drive shaft speed. Roller wheel bearings may whine
in a similar manner if they run completely dry of lubricant. Bearing
noise will occur at all driving speeds. This distinguishes it from
gear whine, which usually comes and goes as speed changes.
Bearing Rumble
Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. It is
usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The lower pitch is
because the wheel bearing turns at only about 1/3 of drive shaft
speed.
Chatter On Turns
This is a condition where the entire front or rear of vehicle
vibrates when vehicle is moving. The vibration is plainly felt as well
as heard. Extra differential thrust washers installed during axle
repair can cause a condition of partial lock-up that creates this
chatter.
Axle Shaft Noise
Axle shaft noise is similar to gear noise and pinion bearing
whine. Axle shaft bearing noise will normally distinguish itself from
gear noise by occurring in all driving modes (Drive, cruise, coast and
float), and will persist with transmission in Neutral while vehicle is
moving at problem speed.
If vehicle displays this noise condition, remove suspect
axle shafts, replace wheel seals and install a new set of bearings.
Re-evaluate vehicle for noise before removing any internal components.
Vibration
Vibration is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grinding
condition (felt or heard) that may be constant or variable in level
and can occur during the total operating speed range of the vehicle.
The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can
be divided into 3 main groups:
* Vibrations of various unbalanced rotating parts of the
vehicle.
* Resonance vibrations of the body and frame structures caused
by rotating of unbalanced parts.
* Tip-in moans of resonance vibrations from stressed engine or
exhaust system mounts or driveline flexing modes.
DRIVE AXLE - RWD TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing. For definitions
of listed noises or sounds, see DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
under POWERTRAIN.
DRIVE AXLE (RWD) TROUBLE SHOOTING
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION