traction control OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 1994 Owners Manual

Features & Controls
50
Forward Gears
ID1 (Automatic Overdrive): This
position is for normal driving.
If you
need more power for passing, and
you’re:
Going less than 35 mph (56 km/h),
push your accelerator pedal about
halfway down.
Going about 35 mph (56 ltm/h) or
more, push the accelerator pedal all
the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and
have more power.
D (Third Gear): This position is like
(Dl, but you never go into Overdrive.
Here are some times you might choose
D instead of [D):
When driving on hilly, winding roads.
When towing a trailer, so there is less
When going down a steep hill.
2 (Second Gear): This position gives
you more power but lower fuel
economy.
You can use 2 on hills. It can
help control your speed as you go down
steep mountain roads, but then you
would also want to use your brakes off
and on.
1 (First Gear): This position gives you
even more power (but lower fuel
economy) than
2. You can use it on
very steep hills, or in deep snow or
mud.
If the shift lever is put in 1, the
transmission won’t shift into first gear
until the vehicle
is going slowly enough.
shifting between gears.
NOTICE:
If
your rear wheels can’t rotate,
don’t try to drive. This might
happen if you were
stuck in very
deep sand or mud or were up
against a solid object.
You could
damage your transmission or
transfer case or both. Also, if you
stop when going uphill, don’t hold
your vehicle there with only the
accelerator pedal. This could
overheat and damage the
transmission.
Use your brakes or
shift into P (Park) to hold your
vehicle in position on
a hill.
Locking Rear Axle
Your rear axle can give you additional
traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or
gravel. It works like a standard axle
most
of the time, but when one of the
rear wheels has no traction and the
other does, the locking feature will
allow the wheel with traction to move
the vehicle.
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Braking in Emergencies
Use your anti-lock braking system when
you need to. With anti-lock, you can
steer and brake at the same time. In
many emergencies, steering
can help you
more than even the very best braking.
I Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist
because the engine stops or the system
is not functioning, you can steer but it
will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a
reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control”
accidents mentioned on the news
happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of
us is subject to the same laws of physics
when driving on curves. The traction of
the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its
path when you turn the front wheels. If
there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in
the same direction. If
you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on
wet ice, you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in
a curve
depends on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which
the curve is banked, and your speed.
While you’re in a curve, speed is the one
factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through
a
sharp curve. Then you suddenly
accelerate. Both control systems
-
steering and acceleration - have to do
their work where the tires meet the
road. Adding the sudden acceleration
can demand too much of those places.
You can lose control.
Suppose you’re steering through
a
sharp curve. Then you suddenly
accelerate. Both control systems
-
steering and acceleration - have to do
their work where the tires meet the
road. Unless you have traction control
and the system is on, adding the sudden
acceleration can demand too much of
those places.
You can lose control. What
should you do if this ever
happens? Ease up on the accelerator
pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that
you should adjust your speed. Of
course, the posted speeds are based on
good weather and road conditions.
Under less favorable conditions you’ll
want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you
approach a curve, do it before you enter
the curve, while your front wheels are
straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed
so you can
“drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve,
and then accelerate gently into the
straightaway.
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hur Driving and the Road
114
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say
about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don’t have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do
what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep
trying to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of
the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care
suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But
skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to
your Oldsmobile’s three control
systems. In the braking skid your
wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or
cornering skid, too much speed or
steering in a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the
acceleration skid too much throttle
causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering
skid and an acceleration
skid are best handled by easing your
foot
off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your
foot
off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the
vehicle to go. If you start steering
quicldy enough, your vehicle may
straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when
water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to
slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow
down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited. While driving
on a surface with reduced
traction, try your best to avoid sudden
steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You may not
realize the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize
warning clues
- such as enough water,
ice or packed snow on the road to make
a “mirrored surface”
- and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock braking
system (ABS) helps avoid only the
braking skid.
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Controlling your vehicle is the key to
successful off-road driving. One of the
best ways to control your vehicle is to
control your speed. Here are some
things to keep in mind. At higher
speeds:
you approach things faster and you
have less time to scan the terrain for
obstacles.
you have less time to react.
you have more vehicle bounce when
you drive over obstacles.
you’ll need more distance for braking,
especially since you’re on an unpaved
surface.
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over
many different kinds of terrain.
You
need to be familiar with the terrain and
its many different features. Here are
some things to consider.
Surface Conditions
Off-roading can take you over hard-
packed
dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand,
mud, snow or ice. Each
of these surfaces
affects the steering, acceleration, and
braking of your vehicle in different ways.
Depending upon the kind of surface you
are on, you may experience slipping,
sliding, wheel spinning, delayed
acceleration, poor traction, and longer
braking distances.
Surface Obstacles
Unseen or hidden obstacles can be
hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or
bump can startle you
if you’re not
prepared for them. Often these obstacles
are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or
even the rise and
fall of the terrain itself.
Here are some things to consider:
Is the path ahead clear?
Will the surface texture change
Does the travel take you uphill or
abruptly
up ahead?
downhill? (There’s more discussion of
these subjects later.)
change direction quickly?
Will you have to stop suddenly or
When you drive over obstacles or rough
terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering
wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface
features can jerk the wheel out of your
hands
if you’re not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or
other obstacles, your wheels can leave
the ground. If this happens, even with
one or two wheels, you can’t control the
vehicle as well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved
surface, it’s especially important to
avoid sudden acceleration, sudden
turns, or sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a
different kind of alertness from driving
on paved roads and highways. There are
no road signs, posted speed limits or
signal lights.
You have to use your own
good judgment about what is safe and
what isn’t.
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Your Driving and the Road
122
Stalling on an Mine
If your vehicle stalls when you’re
crossing an incline, be sure you (and
your passengers) get
out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to
open. If you get out on the downhill
side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you’ll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay
out of the path the vehicle will take if it
does roll over.
Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or
Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand,
your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning
is more difficult, and you’ll need longer
braking distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when you’re
in mud -the deeper the mud, the
lower the gear. In really deep mud, the
idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so
you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a
change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the
sand
is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend
to sink into the sand. This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and
braking. You may want to reduce the
air pressure in your tires slightly when
driving on sand. This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the
worst tire traction.
On these surfaces,
it’s very easy to lose control.
On wet
ice, for example, the traction is
so poor
that you will have difficulty
accelerating. And
if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can
cause you to slide
out of control.
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Service & Appearance Care
188
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other
damage that can’t be repaired well
because of the size or location of the
damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires
you need, look at the Certificationnire
label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when
it was new had a Tire Performance
Criteria Specification (TPC Spec)
number on each tire’s sidewall. When
you get new tires, get ones with that
same TPC Spec number. That way, your
vehicle will continue to have tires that
are designed to give proper endurance,
handling, speed rating, traction, ride
and other things during normal service
on your vehicle.
If your tires have an all-
season tread design, the TPC number
will be followed by a
“MS” (for mud
and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those
not having a TPC Spec number, make
sure they are the same size, load range,
speed rating and construction type
(bias, bias-belted or radial) as your
original tires.
Uniform Tire Qualify Grading
The following information relates to the
system developed by the United States
National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature
performance. (This applies only to
vehicles sold in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate of the tire
when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government
test course. For example, a tire graded
150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2)
times as well on the government course as
a tire graded
100. The relative
performance of tires depends upon the
actual conditions of their use, however,
and may depart significantly from the
norm due to variations in driving habits,
service practices and differences in road
characteristics and climate.
Traction - A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to
lowest are: A,
B, and C. They represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet
pavement as measured under controlled
conditions
on specified government test
surfaces of asphalt and concrete.
A tire
marked C may have poor traction
performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to
this tire is based on braking (straight-
ahead) traction tests and does not
include cornering (turning) traction.
Temperature - A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the
highest),
B, and C, representing the
tire’s resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat
when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified indoor
laboratory test wheel. Sustained high
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