check oil OPEL 1900 1973 Owner's Manual

DISC BRAKES5B- 15
ConditionPossible Cause
2. Binding brake pedal
mechanism.Correction
2. Check and lubricate, ifnecessary.3. Corroded caliper
assembly.3. Clean and lubricate.
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTSDISC BRAKE MAINTENANCE
Checking Brake Fluid Level
The brake fluid level in the brake fluid container
must be checked during predelivery inspection, then
every 3,000 miles during inspection and preventive
maintenance servicing.
The brake fluid level must not be higher than the
inscription “MAX” and must be at least up to
“MIN”. Replenish brake fluid, if necessary.
Because of the relatively large brake caliper bore
cross section and the self-adjustment of the disc
brakes, resulting in a greater piston travel to compen-
sate for friction pad wear, the brake fluid level drops
faster than in fluid containers for drum brakes with
their smaller wheel brake cylinders. For this reason
pay special attention to the fluid level in the brake
fluid container.
Drop of brake fluid level can be due to friction pad
wear and may not be due to leakage in the braking
system.On loss of brake fluid due to leakage, the brake sys-
tem must be checked thoroughly.
Friction Pad Adjustment
Friction pad adjustment is not necessary on the front
wheel disc brakes as this is done automatically by the
pistons in the brake calipers.
Lubricating Front Wheel Bearings
When removing one or both brake discs, check lu-
brication of front wheel bearings and the cavity of
the wheel hub and replenish if necessary (see operat-
ion
“Removing and Reinstalling Brake Disc”).
When carrying out other work on disc brakes which
does not necessitate the removal and installation of
the brake disc, lubricating wheel bearings is not
necessary.Checking Disc Brake Friction Pads for Wear
Whenever a disc brake equipped car is in for periodic
service, while the car is raised, the friction pads in
both brake calipers should be checked for wear by
making a simple measurement. Worn or oily friction
pads must be replaced.
Measure friction pad wear as follows:
1. Remove friction pads.
2. Using a one-inch micrometer, measure the thick-
ness of the pad and friction plate. See Figure
5B-23.Figure 58-23 Checking Brake Friction Pad Thickness
3. If any one of the four measurements is less than
-.280, replace all four friction pads. (Partial replace-
ment of friction pads would cause unequal braking.)
Removal and Installation of Friction Pads
1. Raise car and remove front wheels.
2. Drive dowel pins out of brake calipers toward
center of car. See Figure
5B-24. Dowel pins must be
driven inward because they are secured by enlarge
fluted inner ends.
3. Remove friction pads from brake calipers. See
Figure
5B-25.

5C- 281973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Figure 5C-51 Rear Wheel Brake Adjustment
disconnected, or when cables have been stretched
through extended use. Need for parking brake ad-
justment is indicated if the service brake operates
with good reserve, but the parking brake handle
can be engaged, more than eight ratchet clicks
under heavy pressure.
After making certain that service brakes are in good
adjustment, adjust parking brake mechanism as fol-lows:1. Fully release parking brake lever; check parking
brake cable for free movement.
2. Loosen equalizer nut or adjusting nut, depending
upon whether. tension is to be increased or decreased
on cable.
3. Pull parking brake lever up by three (3) clicks. In
this position, adjust equalizer with adjusting and
lock nuts so that rear brakes just begin to bind. Take
care that rear brake action is equal on both rear
wheels. In case of unequal brake action, apply lubri-
cant to equalizer and brake cable.
4. After adjustment, tighten lock nut. Be certain that
equalizer is in horizontal position. Check operation
of parking brake. If parking brake adjustment doesnot result in proper brake action, inspect linings on
both rear wheels for possible replacement.
Filling Brake Master Cylinder
ReservoirThe master cylinder reservoir must be kept properly
filled to insure adequate reserve and to prevent air
from entering the hydraulic system. However, be-
cause of expansion due to heat absorbed from brakff
and from engine, master cylinder must not be over-
tilled.
The plastic brake fluid reservoir is attached to the
master cylinder which is located under the hood on
the left side of the cowl.
Thoroughly clean reservoir cover before removal to
avoid getting dirt into reservoir. Remove cover and
add fluid as required to bring level up to “MAX.”
marked on reservoir.
Use Delco Supreme No. 11 Hydraulic Brake Fluid
or equivalent.
Do not use shock absorber fluid or any other fluid
which contains mineral oil. Do not use a container
which has been used for mineral oil. Even a trace of
mineral oil will cause swelling and distortion of rub-
ber parts in the hyrdaulic brake system.
Bleeding Brake Hydraulic SystemA bleeding operation is necessary to remove air whe-
never it is introduced into the hydraulic brake sys-
tem. Since air is compressible and hydraulic fluid is
not, the presence of air in the system is indicated by
a springy, spongy feeling of the brake pedal accom-
panied by poor braking action.
Air will be introduced into the hydraulic system if
the brake pedal is operated when the fluid is too low
in master cylinder reservoir. Air will also enter the
system whenever any part of hydraulic system is
disconnected.
It will be necessary to bleed both hydraulic systems
if air has been introduced through low fluid level or
by disconnecting brake pipes at master cylinder. If
brake pipe is disconnected at any wheel cylinder,
then that wheel cylinder only need be bled. If pipes
are disconnected at any fitting located between mas-
ter cylinder and wheel cylinders, then the wheel
cylinder(s) served by the disconnected pipe must be
bled.
Sequence for Bleeding Wheel
Cylinders or CalipersIt is advisable to bleed one wheel cylinder or caliper

DRUM BRAKESBC- 29
at a time to avoid getting fluid level in reservoir
dangerously low. The correct sequence for bleeding
is bleed the wheel cylinder or caliper nearest the
master cylinder first in either circuit.
Do not perform bleeding operation while any brake
drum is removed.
Bleeding Wheel Cylinder or Caliper
1. Check fluid level, in reservoir and refill, if neces-
sary. Level must be brought up to “MAX” mark on
plastic reservoir.
2. Clean all dirt from around respective bleeder
valve, and then remove cap.
3. Push bleeder hose over bleeder valve, placing
other end of hose in a glass jar. Bleeder hose should
always be used to avoid getting fluid on linings.
4. Hold pressure on brake pedal and crack open the
bleeder valve to allow air (and,or) brake fluid to flow
out of the system. Allow pedal to travel to the floor.
Close bleeder valve. Release pedal and repeat this
procedure at each wheel cylinder in the circuit until
all air is removed. Frequently check reservoir fluid
level. Allowing fluid to be emptied will draw air into
the system.
5. Remove bleeder hose and install cap.
6. When bleeding operation is completed, make sure
that fluid level is brought up to “MAX” marking on
reservoir, then install cover.
7. Discard the brake fluid deposited in glass jar dur-
ing bleeding operation.
Flushing Brake Hydraulic System
It is recommended that both brake system circuits be
thoroughly flushed whenever the master cylinder is
replaced or if there is any doubt as to the grade of
fluid in the system.
Flushing of the brake system is performed in the
same manner as the bleeding operation except that
fluid is forced through the lines and wheel cylinder
until it emerges clear in color. Approximately one
half pint of brake fluid is required to flush the hy-
draulic system thoroughly.
When flushing is completed, make certain the master
cylinder reservoir is filled to the proper level.Figure
5C-52 Rear Drum Brake Assembly
MAJOR REPAIR
REPLACE OR RELINE BRAKE SHOES
(DRUM BRAKES)Removal and Inspection
1. Jack up car in safe manner and support ade-
quately.
2. Remove wheel and drum assembly.
3. Remove upper and lower brake shoe return
springs.
4. Remove retaining pins and springs, as shown in
Figure
5C-52.5. Clean all dirt out of brake drum. Inspect drums
and replace or recondition if required.
6. Blow all dirt from brake assemblies and inspect for
any unusual condition.
7. Carefully pull lower edges of wheel cylinder boots
away from cylinders and note whether interior is wet
with brake fluid. Fluid at this point indicates leakage
past piston cup, requiring overhaul or replacement of
wheel cylinder.
8. Inspect all brake pipe and hose connections for
evidence of fluid leakage. Tighten any leaking con-
nection, then apply heavy pressure to brake pedal
and recheck connections.
9. Inspect backing plate for oil leak past rear wheel
bearing oil seals. Correct any leak by installation of
new seals.

Figure 5C-53 Rear Brake Assembly
10. Check all backing plate attaching bolts to make
sure they are tight. Using line emery cloth, clean all
rust and dirt from shoe contact surfaces on plate. See
Figure Z-53.
Relining Brake ShoesIf old brake shoes are to be relined, inspect shoes for
distortion and for looseness between the rim and
web; these are causes for discarding any shoe. If
shoes are serviceable, be governed by the following
points in installing new linings:
1. Remove old rivets by drilling them out. Punching
out rivets will cause distortion of shoe rim. Care5C- 301973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
must also be taken to support shoes properly while
drilling.
2. Thoroughly clean brake shoes and remove all
burrs around rivet holes.
3. Use Opel brake lining or equivalent. Install in
place and rivet in sequence shown in Figure
Z-54.Keep hands clean while handling brake lining. Do
not permit oil or grease to come in contact with
lining.
Installation and Adjustment
1. If any hydraulic conne&tions were disturbed, bleed
hydraulic system. If new parts were installed in
brake system, flushing of hydraulic system is recom-
mended.
2. Adjust rear wheel brakes.
3. Adjust parking brake.
4. Check fluid level in master cyliner and add fluid
if necessary.
5. Check brake pedal for proper feel and for proper
return.
6. Remove jacks and road test car for proper brake
action. Brakes must not be severely applied immedi-
ately after installation of new brake shoes or linings.
Severe application may perinanently injure new lin-
ings and may score brake drums. When linings are
new, they must be given moderate use for several
days until burnished.
INSPECTING AND RECONDITIONING
BRAKE DRUMSWhenever brake drums are removed, they should
bethoroughly cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores,
deep groves, and out-of-round. Any of these condi-
tions must be corrected since they can impair the
efficiency of brake operation and also can cause
premature failure of other parts.
Cracked, Scored or Grooved DrumA cracked drum is unsafe for further service and
must be replaced. Welding a cracked drum is not
recommended.
Smooth up any slight scores by polishing with tine
emery cloth. Heavy or extensive scoring will cause
excessive brake lining wear and it will be necessary
to rebore in order to true up the braking surface.
Figure 5C.54 Brake Lining Riveting
SequenceIf the brake linings are slightly worn and drum is
grooved, the drum should be rebored just enough to

DRUM BRAKES5c- 31
remove grooves, and the ridges in the lining should
be lightly removed with a lining grinder.
If brake linings are more than half worn, but do not
need replacement, the drum should be polished with
fine emery cloth but should not be rebored. At this
stage, eliminating the grooves in drum and smooth-
ing the ridges on lining would necessitate removal of
too much metal and lining, while if left alone, the
grooves and ridges match and satisfactory service
can be obtained.
If brake linings are to be replaced, a grooved drum
should be rebored for use with oversize linings. A
grooved drum, if used with new lining, will not only
wear the lining but will make it
diff%xlt, if not im-
possible, to obtain etXcient brake performance.
Out-of-Round DrumAn out-of-round drum makes accurate brake shoe
adjustment impossible and is likely to cause excessive
wear of other parts of brake mechanism due to its
eccentric action. An out-of-round drum can also
cause brake pulsation. Maximum permissible drumrunout is 004”. A drum that has more run-out than
this should be rebored. Runout can be accurately
checked by using an inside micrometer fitted with
proper extension rods.
When measuring a drum for run-out, take measure-
ments at open and closed edges of machined surface
and at right angles to each other.
Turning Brake DrumsIf a brake drum is to be turned, enough metal should
be removed to obtain a true, smooth braking surface.
Measure brake drum diameter; standard drum inner
diameter is 9.060”. Drums may be turned to an over-
size of ,030”. If maximum inner diameter after turn-
ing exceeds 9.090”, brake drum will have to be
replaced. Removal of more metal will affect dissipa-
tion of heat and may cause distortion of the drum.
1. Remove rear wheels and drums.
2. Mount brake drum on brake drum lathe and turn
drums as necessary, within limits.
3. After turning, check drum diameter. Inner diame-
ter not to exceed 9.090.
4. A newly-bored drum should always have center
contact with brake shoes. For this reason, arc grind
linings to
.OlO” under drum radius, or to ,020” under
drum diameter.
5. Clean and install drums and wheels.
BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER OVERHAUL1. Remove wheel, drum, and brake shoes. Be careful
not to get grease or dirt on brake lining.
2. Disconnect brake pipe or hose from wheel cylinder
and cover opening with tape to prevent entrance of
dirt. Remove wheel cylinder from backing plate.
3. Remove boots, pistons, cups, and spring from cyl-
inder. Remove bleeder valve.
4. Discard rubber boots and piston cups. Thoroughly
clean all other parts with hydraulic brake fluid orDeclene. Do not use anti-freeze, alcohol, gasoline,
kerosene, or any other cleaning fluid that might con-
tain even a trace of mineral oil.
5. Inspect pistons and cylinder bore for scores, scrat-
ches, or corrosion. Light scratches may be polished
with crocus cloth. Do not use emery cloth or sandpa-
per.
Shght corro~on may be cleaned wth tine steel
wool. If scratches or corroded spots are too deep to
be polished satisfactorily, the cylinder should be re-
placed since honing is not recommended.
6. Dip internal parts in brake fluid and reassembly
wheel cylinder. When installing piston cups, use care
to avoid damaging the edges.
7. If the rear wheel backing plate is removed: Always
install new paper gaskets one on each side
- on the
backing plate. Prior to installation, lightly coat paper
gaskets with chassis lubricant. Torque backing plate
to rear axle housing bolts to 43
lb.ft. and wheel brake
cylinder to backing plate bolts to 5
lb.ft. Install wheel
cylinder on brake backing plate and connect brake
pipe or hose.
8. Install brake shoes, drum, and wheel, then flush
and bleed hydraulic system.
9. Adjust brakes, then road test car for brake per-
formance.
CAUTION:This brake backing plate to rear axle fis-
tener is an important attaching part in that it could
affect the performance of vital components and sys-
tems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It
must be replaced with one of the same part number
or with an equivalent part, if replacement becomes
necessary. Do not
use a replacement part of lesser
quahty or substitute design. Torque v&es must be
used as specified during reassembly to assure proper
retention of this part.
REPLACING BRAKE PIPESAny brake pipe assembly which is needed must be
made up from service bulk tubing and fittings. All
brake pipes must be made of tin or copper coated
wrapped steel tubing with the ends double lap flared.

6A. 61973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALDIAGNOSIS
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
ConditionCorrectionExternal Oil Leaks at:Tighten attaching bolts. If leaks
Rocker Arm Coverspersist, remove cover (or pan),
Crankcase Front Covercheck sealing surfaces for burrs
Oil Pan and Gasketor scoring, replace gasket, and
seal bolts with silastic sealer or
equivalent. Make sure oil level
,is not overfull.
Improper Reading of Dip-Car may not be level when taking r
StickInsuffIcient oil “drain-back” time
after stopping engine (three
minutes must be allowed). Dip-
stick may not be completely pushed
down against stop. Dipstick may
be bent.
Oil Viscosity Too LightUse recommended SAE viscosity for
prevailing temperatures.
Continuous High-SpeedAt speeds above 60 mph, increased
Drivingsumption can be expected with any
Inform customer of this fact.
High-Speed DrivingWhen principal use of automobile i
Following Normal Slowcity driving, crankcase dilution f
Speed City Drivingcondensation occurs. High speed a
temperatures will remove water,
resulting in what appears to be
rapid lowering of oil level.
Inform customer of this fact.
Piston Rings NotAllow engine to accumulate at leas
“Broken In”
4,OCO miles before attempting any
engine disassembly to correct for
oil consumption.
NOISY VALVES AND LIFTERSIf the preceding check indicates valve mechanism is
abnormally noisy, remove the rocker arm cover so
that the various conditions that cause noise may be
The noise level of the valve mechanism cannot bechecked. A piece of heater hose of convenient length
properly judged where the engine is below operatingmay be used to pick out the particular valves or valve
temperature when the hood is raised, or when thelinkages
thit are causing abnormal noise. With the
valve rocker arm covers are removed.engine running at a speed where the noise is pro-
nounced; hold the end of hose to an ear and hold
Before attempting to judge valve noise level, the en-other end about
l/2 inch from point of contact be-
gine must be thoroughly warmed up (at least 20tween rocker arm and valve stem. Mark or record the
minutes of operation at
1200 to 1500 RPM) to stabil-noisy valves for investigation of following causes:ize oil and coolant temperatures and bring all engine
parts to a normal state of expansion. When the
en-1. Sticking, Warped, or Eccentric Valves, Worngine is warmed up, listen for engine noise while
sit-Guides Sticking valves will cause irregular engine
ting in the driver’s seat with the hood closed. Run theoperation or missing on a low speed pull and will
engine at idle and at various higher speeds.usually cause intermittent noise.

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 7
Pour penetrating oil over the valve spring cap andengine off. It makes no difference whether the engine
allow it to drain down the valve stem. Apply pressureis cold or is at operating temperature. Set piston of
to the one side of the valve spring and then the other,the respective cylinder to upper top center on the
and then rotate the valve spring about l/2 turn. Iffiring stroke. This can be accomplished by removing
these operations affect the valve noise, it may bethe distributor cap and observing the rotor. Check
assumed that valves should be reconditioned.position of the rotor and follow spark path for the
2.Worn or Scored Parts in the Valve Train Inspectrotor tip through the distributor cap, high tension
rocker arms, push rod ends for scoring. Check pushwire to spark plug. This determines which cylinder
rods for bends, valve lifters, and camshaft surfacesis at upper top center on the firing stroke. Adjust the
for scoring. Replace faulty parts.hydraulic lifters of the two valves for that cylinder at
this time. When they are adjusted, turn engine so
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTSthat another.cylinder is at upper top center on the
firing stroke and adjust the two valve lifters for that
VALVE LIFTER ADJUSTMENTcylinder. Repeat process until all valves are adjusted.
See Figure 6A-6 for correct rotor position for each
Perform hydraulic valve lifter adjustment with thecylinder.
CORRECT ROTOR POSITION TO ADJUSTCORRECT ROTOR POSITION TO ADJUST
VALVES ON CYLINDER NO. 1VALVES ON CYLINDER NO. II
CORRECT ROTOR POSITION TO ADJUSTCORRECT ROTOR POSITION TO ADJUST
VALVES
ON CYLINDER NO. IllVALVES ON CYLINDER NO. ,VW-6Figure
6A-6 Rotor Positions for Valve Lifter Adjustment

RECESSES VERTICAL FOR
REMOVAL OF LEFT ROW OF
CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS6A-16
Figure 6A-18 Recesses in Camshaft
2. Clean piston tops and combustion chambers.
Thoroughly clean all gasket surfaces on the cylinder
block and cylinder head.
3. Lightly lubricate cylinder walls with engine oil.
Install coolant passage rubber gasket ring in timing
case. See Figure 6A-19.I. TIMING CHAIN
2. CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3. SPROCKET TIMING MARK
4. TIMING CASE5. SUPPORT TIMING MARK
6. SUPPORT
7. CYLINDER BLOCK
6. RUBBER GASKET RING6A-19
Figure 6A-19 Coolant Passage Rubber Gasket Ring in
Timing CaseENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS
6A- 13
4. Apply silastic sealer or equivalent to both sides of
the cylinder head gasket where the gasket mates with
the timing chain cover, place new cylinder head gas-
ket onto cylinder block.
5. Install cylinder head. Be careful to place head
squarely over guide pins.
Rotate camshaft so that recesses are in vertical posi-
tion to allow installation of left row of bolts.
6. Install 10 head bolts. Tighten the bolts a little at
a time in the sequence shown in Figure 6A-20. Give
bolts a final torque in the same sequence. Torque to
72 lb. ft. (cylinder head cold). Use same procedure
for cylinder head to timing chain cover bolts with
final torque at 17
lb.ft. See Figure 6A-20. These
torques apply to lightly oiled threads.
Figure 6A-20 Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening
sequence7. Slide camshaft sprocket with assembled chain onto
camshaft and guide pin and fasten with bolts. Install
nylon adjusting screw. After sprocket has been at-
tached to camshaft, recheck alignment to see that
chain has not slipped. Close front access hole.
8. Check camshaft end clearance between cover and
nylon screw with feeler gauge. Clearance should be
.004” - .008” Excess clearance can be eliminated by
carefully readjusting cover with a suitable drift.
Reconditioning Valves and Guides1. Remove cylinder head. Place on clean surface.
Place head on bench supported at each end by a
block of wood to prevent damage to valves.
2. Using suitable spring compressor, such as J-8062,
compress valve spring and remove cap retainers. Re-
lease tool and remove spring and cap. See Figure 6A-
21.3. Remove valves. Place valves in numerical order so
that they can be reinstalled in original location.
4. Remove all carbon from combustion chambers,
piston heads, and valves. When using scrapers or

6A- 161973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALInspection of Connecting Rod Bearings and
Crankshaft JournalsRemove oil pan.
After removal of oil pan, disconnect two connecting
rods at a time from crankshaft and inspect the bear-
ings and crankpin journals. While,tuming crankshaft
it is necessary to
t&porarily reconnect the rods to
crankshaft to avoid possibility of damaging the jour-
nals through contact with loose rods.
If connecting rod bearings are chipped or scored they
should be replaced. If bearings
are in good physical
condition check for proper clearance on crankpins as
described under, checking clear$nce and selecting
replacement connecting rod beartngs.
If crankpin journals are scored or ridged, the crank-
shaft must be replaced, or reground for undersize
bearings, to insure satisfactory life of connecting rod
bearings. Slight roughness may be polished out withfine grit polishing cloth thoroughly wetted with en-
gine oil. Burrs may be honed off with a fine oil stone.
Use an outside micrometer to check crankpins for
out- of-round. If crankpins are mpre than
,002” out-
of- round, satisfactory life of new ,bearings cannot be
expected.
Checking Clearance and Selecting Replacement
Connecting Rod BearingsService bearings are furnished in standard size and
several undersizes. The clearance of connecting rod
(and crankshaft) bearings may be checked by use of
Plastigage, Type PG-1 (green), or equivalent, which
is soluble in oil.
1. Remove connecting rod cap with bearing shell.
Wipe off oil from bearing and crankpin journal, also
blow oil out of hole in crankshaft.
2. Place a piece of the plastic-type gauge material
Figure 6A-25 Checking Bearing
Cleatance WithPlastic-Type Gaugelengthwise along the bottom center of the lower bear-
ing shell (Figure 6A-25, view A), then install cap
with shell and tighten nuts to 36 lb. ft. Do not turn
crankshaft with gauge type material in bearing.
3. Remove bearing cap with bearing shell, the flat-
tened piece of gauge will be found adhering to either
the bearing shell or the crankpin. Do not remove it.
4. Using the scale printed on the envelope, measure
the flattened piece of gauge at its widest point. The
number within the graduation which closely corre-
sponds to the width of the gauge, indicates the bear-
ing clearance in thousandths of an inch. See Figure6A-25, View B.
5. The desired clearance with a new bearing is.0006”- .0025”. If bearing has been in service it is
advisable to install a new bearing if the clearance
exceeds .003”, however if bearing is in good condi-
tion and is not being checked because of bearing
noise, it is not necessary to replace the bearing.
6. After the proper size bearing has been selected,
clean off the gauge, oil thoroughly, reinstall cap with
bearing shell and tighten nuts to 36 lb. ft.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS AND SEALS
Replacement of Crankshaft BearingsA crankshaft bearing consists of two halves or shells
which are identical and are interchangeable in cap
and crankcase. All crankshaft bearings except the
rear main bearing are identical. The crankshaft end
thrust is taken up the rear (No. 5) main bearing.
Figure 6A-26 Engine Crankshaft Bearings
When the shells are placed in crankcase and bearing
cap, the ends extend slightly beyond the parting
sur-faces so that when cap bolts are tightened the shells
will be clamped tightly in place to insure positive

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 17
seating and to prevent turning.The ends of she//s
must never be tiled flush with parting surface of
crankcase or bearing cap.Crankshaft bearings are the precision type which do
not require reaming to size. Shims are not provided
for adjustment since worn bearings are readily re-
placed with new bearings of proper size. Bearings for
service replacement are furnished in standard size
and undersizes. Under no circumstances should
crankshaft bearing caps be tiIed to adjust for wear in
old bearing.After removal of oil pan, pipe and screen assembly,
perform the following removal, inspection and in-
stallation operations on each crankshaft bearing in
turn so that the crankshaft will be well supported by
the other bearings.
If crankshaft has been removed to check straightness
the following procedure is suggested. Rest crank-
shaft on “V-blocks” at number one and number live
main bearing journals. Check indicator runout at
No. 3 main bearing journal. Total indicator reading
should not exceed
.C012”.1. Since any service condition which affects the
crankshaft bearings may also affect the connecting
rod bearings, it is advisable to inspect connecting rod
bearings
first. If crankpins are worn to the extent
that crankshaft should be replaced or reground, re-
placement of crankshaft bearings only will not be
satisfactory.
If replacement of cylinder block or crankshaft is re-
quired, always check main bearing clearance with
plastic-type gauge to obtain specified limits.
2. Remove one bearing cap, then clean and inspect
lower bearing shell and the crankshaft journal. If
journal surface is scored or ridged, the crankshaft
must be replaced or reground to insure satisfactory
operation with new bearings. Slight roughness may
be polished out with tine grit polishing cloth
thoroughly wetted with engine oil, and burrs may be
honed off with a tine stone.
3. If condition of lower bearing shell and crankshaft
journal is satisfactory, check the bearing clearance
with a plastic-type gauge.
4. When checking a crankshaft bearing with plastic-
type gauging material, turn crankshaft so that oil
hole is up to avoid dripping of oil on the gauge
material. Place paper shims in lower halves of adja-
cent bearings and tighten cap bolts to take the weight
of crankshaft
off the lower shell of beating being
checked.5. If bearing clearance exceeds
.C03”, it is advisable
to install a new bearing; however, if bearing is in
good condition and is not being checked because ofbearing noise, it is not necessary to replace the bear-
ing.6. Loosen all crankshaft bearing cap bolts
l/2 turn,
and remove cap of bearing to be replaced.
7. Remove upper bearing shell by inserting Bearing
Shell Remover and Installer J-8080 in oil hole in
crankshaft, then slowly turning crankshaft so that
the tool rotates the shell out of place by pushing
against the end without the tang. See Figure
6A-27.When turning crankshaft with rear bearing cap
removed hold oil seal to prevent it from rotating out
of position in crankcase.
8. The crankshaft journal cannot be measured with
an outside micrometer when shaft is in place; how-
ever, when upper bearing shell is removed the jour-
nal may be checked for out-of-round by using a
special crankshaft caliper and inside micrometer.
Figure 6A-27 Removing and Installing Crankshaft
Bearing Upper Shell
The caliper should not be applied to journal in line
with oil hole.
If crankshaft journal is more than
.M)12” out-of-
round, the crankshaft should be replaced since the
full mileage cannot be expected from bearings used
with an excessively out-of-round crankshaft.
9. Before installation of bearing shells make sure that
crankshaft journal and the bearing seats in crankcase
and cap are thoroughly cleaned.
10. Coat inside surface of upper bearing shell with
engine oil and place shell against crankshaft journal
so that tang on shell will engage notch in crankcase
when shell is rotated into place.
11. Rotate bearing shell into place as far as possible
by hand, then insert Installer J-8080 in crankshaft oil
hole and rotate crankshaft to push shell into place.
Bearing shell should move into place with very little