fuse OPEL VECTRA 1988 Service User Guide

Wiring diagrams 12•55
12
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
E1Left parking lamp506
E2Left tail lamp507, 745
E3Licence plate lamp513
E4Right parking lamp509
E5Right tail lamp510, 746
E6Engine compartment lamp515
E7Left high beam 535
E8Right high beam536
E9Left low beam537, 747
E10Right low beam538, 748
E11Instrument lights728, 729
E12Selector lever lamp 498, 499
E13Boot lamp585
E14Passenger compartment lamp587
E15Glove box lamp677
E16Cigarette lighter lamp676
E17Left reversing lamp597
E18Right reversing lamp598
E19Heated back window652
E20Left fog lamp553
E21Right fog lamp554
E24Left rear fog lamp548
E25Left front heating mat660
E27Left rear reading lamp680, 681
E28Right rear reading lamp683, 684
E30Right front heating mat664
E32Clock lamp863
E37Left mirror make-up lamp686
E38Computer lamp854
E39Right rear foglamp549
E40Right mirror make-up lamp688
E41Passenger compartment delay lamp 588 to 590
E50Driver door lamp866
E51Passenger door lamp884
F1 onFusesVarious
F35Voltage stabilizer702
G1Battery101
G2Alternator114
G6Diesel alternator 402 to 405
H1Radio784 to 798
H3Turn signal lamp telltale716, 718
H4Oil pressure telltale710
H5Brake fluid telltale712
H6Telltale hazard warning system570
H7Charging indicator lamp710
H8High beam telltale722
H9Left stop lamp561, 749
H10Right stop lamp562, 750
H11Left front turn signal lamp572
H12Left rear turn signal lamp573
H13Right front turn signal lamp581
H14Right rear turn signal lamp582
H15Fuel telltale705, 706
H16Preheating time telltale715
H17Trailer turn signal lamp telltale717
H18Horn670
H19Headlamps on warning buzzer594, 595
H21Parking brake telltale713
H23Airbag telltale719
H25Heated back window & mirror telltale642, 765
H26ABS telltale721
H27Safety checking warning buzzer996 to 998
H28Seat belt warning telltale723
H30Engine telltale724H33Left auxiliary turn signal lamp576
H34Right auxiliary turn signal lamp578
H36Additional stop lamp563
H37Left front loudspeaker788 to 790
H38Right front loudspeaker794 to 796
H39Left rear loudspeaker788, 789
H40Right rear loudspeaker791, 792
H42Automatic program power telltale725
H45Four wheel drive telltale727
H46Catalytic converter temperature telltale729
H47Anti-theft warning unit horn838
H48Horn671
H51Traction control telltale720
H52Left front tweeter787 to 791
H53Right front tweeter793 to 797
K3Starter relay anti-theft warning unit109, 110
K5Fog lamps relay554 to 555
K6Air conditioning relay901, 902
K7Four stage air conditioning blower relay904, 905
K8Windshield wiper interval relay603 to 606
K9Headlamps washer unit relay619, 620
K10Flasher unit567 to 569
K20Ignition coil module149, 150, 171, 172, 241, 242, 302 to 305,
361 to 364, 1001 to 1005, 1055 to 1061
K22Coolant pump relay133, 134, 969, 970
K25Glow time relay440 to 443
K26Radiator blower relays972 to 974
K27Radiator blower relay137 to 139
K30Back window wiper interval relay613 to 615
K31Airbag control unit1191 to 1198
K34Radiator blower time delay relay356 to 358, 956 to 958
K35Heated back window & mirror time delay relay650 to 652
K37Central locking control unit805 to 812
K51Radiator blower relay430, 431, 942, 943, 956, 957
K52Radiator blower relay145 to 147, 433,435,
982 to 984, 960 to 962
K57Multec unit control211 to 230, 244 to 262
K58Fuel pump relay231, 232, 262, 263
K59Running light relay520 to 525
K60Compressor relay931,932
K61Motronic control unit270 to 294, 307 to 337,
366 to 396, 1007 to 1037, 1063 to 1096
K63Horn relay671, 672
K641 stage air conditioning blower relay913, 914
K67Radiator blower relay142, 143, 436, 437, 948,
949, 964, 965, 986, 987
K68Fuel injection unit relay295 to 299, 393 to 397,
334 to 338, 1093 to 1097, 1034 to 1038
K73High beam relay (Calibra)530, 531
K76Glow time control unit413 to 417
K77Glow plugs relay419, 420
K78Preresistor relay (70A)422, 423
K79Charge indicator relay406 to 408
K80Filter heating relay426, 427, 452, 453
K82Engine revolution relay447, 448
K83Four wheel drive unit control342 to 349
K84EZ Plus control unit155 to 166, 177 to 191
K85Automatic transmission control unit473 to 496
K86Check control unit736 to 752
K87Radiator blower relay945, 946, 953, 954, 977, 978
K88Catalytic converter temperature control unit462 to 464
K89Rear fog lamp relay543 to 545
K90Compressor relay (automatic transmission only)930, 931
K94Anti-theft warning unit control unit833 to 847

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole. It can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and
re-spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. These can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-
contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer. This will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight miss-match in paint colours.
Bodywork fittings (e.g. chrome strips, door
handles, etc.), will also need to be masked off.
Use genuine masking tape and several
thicknesses of newspaper for the masking
operations.
Before beginning to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade
wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of
the primer until it is smooth. While doing this,
the work area should be thoroughly doused
with water, and the wet-and-dry paper
periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry
before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about
2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), repair of
more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of suchdamage by the DIY owner is not feasible
owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs.
The basic technique involves making a groove
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.), can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will have a problem of
finding a paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of
plastics come across in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally, will
not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but
special paints are available to match any
plastic or rubber finish can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit that consists
of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and
coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but the method of
use is to first apply the pre-primer to the
component concerned and allow it to dry for
up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied
and left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
5Major body damage - repair
5
Major impact or rust damage should only
be repaired by a Vauxhall dealer or other
competent specialist. Alignment jigs are
needed for successful completion of such
work, superficially effective repairs may leave
dangerous weaknesses in the structure.
Distorted components can also impose
severe stresses on steering and suspension
components with consequent premature
failure.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11

37Facia panels - removal and
refitting
3
Footwell trim panels
Removal
1The lower footwell trim panels on the
driver’s and passenger sides are secured by
turnbuckle type plastic clips.2To remove a panel, use a screwdriver to
turn the heads of the clips through 90°(see
illustration), then withdraw the panel from the
facia.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Driver’s side lower facia panel
Removal
4Open the flap covering the fusebox to
expose the four lower facia panel securing
screws.
5Remove the four screws, then lower the
panel and pull it towards the driver’s door to
release the two securing clips. Withdraw the
panel from the facia (see illustrations).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Steering column shrouds
Removal
7On models with an adjustable tilt steering
column, move the column to its fully raised
position, then unscrew the adjuster lever (see
illustration).
8Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose one of the front steering column
shroud securing screw covers.
9Prise out the cover, and remove the column
shroud securing screw, then turn the steering
wheel to enable the remaining cover and
screw to be removed (see illustrations).
10Remove the three securing screws from
the underside of the lower column shroud,
then remove the lower and upper shrouds
(see illustrations).
11•16Bodywork and fittings
37.2 Releasing a footwell trim panel
securing clip37.5B . . . then withdraw the lower facia
panel
37.10C . . . and upper shrouds (steering
wheel removed)37.10B . . . then remove the lower . . .37.10A Remove the three lower column
shroud securing screws . . .
37.9B . . . then remove the front column
shroud securing screws37.9A Prise out the covers . . .37.7 Removing the column adjuster lever
37.5A Remove the four securing screws
from the fusebox aperture . . .
Before removing any of the
facia panels, the battery
negative lead should be
disconnected, as several
permanently live feed wires are routed
behind the facia.

Idle settings (continued)
Idle mixture (CO content):
20 NE and 20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 max.
20 XEJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 to 1.2%
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.3 % (at 2800 to 3200 rpm)
Fuel Pressure (regulator vacuum hose connected)
Multec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.76 bar
Motronic 4.1:
Feed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.3 to 2.7 bar
Return . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.3 to 1.5 bar
Motronic 1.5:
Feed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.8 to 2.2 bar
Return . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.3 to 1.5 bar
Motronic 2.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.0 to 2.2 bar
Motronic 2.8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.2 to 2.7 bar
Simtec 56.1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .not available
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
All specifications as for carburettor models except for the following:
Bracket, tank vent valve to coolant flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Fuel distributor pipe to inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Fuel flow damper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
Fuel injector retainer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Fuel pressure regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.52
Fuel pump clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Idle air control stepper motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.52
Knock sensor (X16 SZ) to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1310
Oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Throttle body mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
Throttle body upper-to-lower section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64.5
Throttle potentiometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21.5
Throttle valve housing to inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
1General description
General
1All engines available within the Cavalier
range can be operated on unleaded petrol.
Refer to Chapter 5 for further details. Note
that models fitted with a catalytic converter
must only be operated on unleaded petrol,
and leaded petrol must not be used. Models
with catalytic converter can be identified by
the engine code, which is prefixed by the
letter ‘C’ or ‘X’.
Multec system
Note: There is no provision for the adjustment
or alteration of the idle speed; if checking the
idle speed, remember that it may vary
constantly under ECU control.
2The Multec system is essentially a simple
method of air/fuel metering, replacing the
carburettor with a single injector mounted in a
throttle body. This type of system is therefore
also known as Throttle Body Injection (TBi),
Central Fuel Injection (CFi) or single-(or
mono-) point injection. The whole system is
best explained if considered as three
sub-systems, these being fuel delivery, air
metering and electrical control.
3The fuel delivery system incorporates the
fuel tank (with the electric fuel pumpimmersed inside it), the fuel filter, the fuel
injector and pressure regulator (mounted in
the throttle body), and the hoses and pipes
connecting them. When the ignition is
switched on (or when the engine is cranking,
on X16 SZ engines) the pump is supplied with
voltage, by way of the pump relay and fuse
11, under the control of the Electronic Control
Unit (ECU). The pump feeds through the fuel
filter to the injector. Fuel pressure is controlled
by the pressure regulator, which lifts to allow
excess fuel to return to the tank.
4The air metering system includes the inlet air
temperature control system and the air
cleaner, but its main components are in the
throttle body assembly. This incorporates the
injector, which sprays fuel onto the back of the
throttle valve, the throttle potentiometer. This
is linked to the throttle valve spindle and sends
the ECU information on the rate of throttle
opening by transmitting a varying voltage. The
idle air control stepper motor is controlled by
the ECU to maintain the idle speed.
5The electrical side of the fuel injection
system consists of the ECU and all the
sensors that provide it with information, plus
the actuators by which it controls the whole
system’s operation. The basic method of
operation is as follows; note that the ignition
system is controlled by the same ECU.
6The manifold absolute pressure sensor is
connected by a hose to the inlet manifold.
Variations in manifold pressure are converted
into graduated electrical signals that are usedby the ECU to determine the load on the
engine. The throttle valve potentiometer is
explained above.
7Information on engine speed and
crankshaft position comes from the distributor
on C16 NZ engines and from the crankshaft
speed/position sensor on C16 NZ2, X16 SZ
and C18 NZ engines.
8An odometer frequency sensor provides the
ECU with information on the vehicle’s road
speed, and the coolant temperature sensor
provides it with the engine temperature. A
knock sensor located in the cylinder block
between cylinders 2 and 3 on the X16 SZ
engine provides additional information to the
ECU by detecting pre-ignition (detonation)
during the combustion process.
9All these signals are compared by the ECU
with set values pre-programmed (mapped)
into its memory. Considering this information,
the ECU selects the response appropriate to
those values. It controls the ignition amplifier
module by varying the ignition timing as
required. The fuel injector is controlled by
varying its pulse width the time the injector is
held open, to provide a richer or weaker
mixture, as appropriate. The idle air control
stepper motor controls the idle speed. The
fuel pump relay controls the fuel delivery and
the oxygen sensor, accordingly. The mixture,
idle speed and ignition timing are constantly
varied by the ECU to provide the best settings
for cranking, starting and engine warm-up
(with either a hot or cold engine), idling,
4B•2Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models

31This engine is also fitted with an EGR
(exhaust gas recirculation) valve and
secondary air injection (AIR - Air Injection
Reactor), to conform to the latest European
exhaust emission limits (as from 1996). The
EGR returns a specific amount of exhaust gas
into the combustion process. This in turn
reduces the formation of nitrogen oxides
(No
x). The secondary air injection system has
an electrically driven air pump that injects air
into the exhaust manifold, reducing the
amount of CO and HC emissions.
2Fuel injection system -
precautions
The fuel injection system is pressurised,
therefore extra care must be taken when
disconnecting fuel lines. When disconnecting
a fuel line union, loosen the union slowly, to
avoid a sudden release of pressure that may
cause fuel to spray out.
Fuel pressure checking must be entrusted
to a Vauxhall dealer, or other specialist, who
has the necessary special equipment.
3System testing - general
3
General
1Apart from basic electrical tests, there is
nothing that can be done by the owner to test
individual fuel system components.2If a fault arises, check first that it is not due
to poor maintenance. Check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped.
Check also that the engine breather hoses are
clear and undamaged and that the throttle
cable is correctly adjusted. If the engine is
running very roughly, check the compression
pressures (Chapter 1) and remember the
possibility that one of the hydraulic tappets
might be faulty, producing an incorrect valve
clearance.
3If the fault is thought to be due to a dirty
injector, it is worth trying one of the
established injector-cleaning treatments
before renewing, perhaps unnecessarily, the
injector.
4If the fault persists, check the ignition
system components (as far as possible).
5If the fault is still not eliminated, work
methodically through the system, checking all
fuses, wiring connectors and wiring, looking
for any signs of poor connections, dampness,
corrosion, dirt or other faults.
6Once the system components have been
checked for signs of obvious faults, take the
vehicle to a Vauxhall dealer for the full system
to be tested on special equipment.
7Do not attempt to “test” any component,
but particularly the ECU, with anything other
than the correct test equipment, available at a
Vauxhall dealer. If any of the wires to be
checked lead to a component such as the
ECU, always first unplug the relevant
connector from the system components so
that there is no risk of the component being
damaged by the application of incorrect
voltages from test equipment.
4Air cleaner - removal and
refitting
2
Note:If ‘round type’ air filter is fitted, follow
procedure in Chapter 4A.
Removal
1Unclip the coolant expansion tank hose
from the air cleaner cover, and move it to one
side out of the way.2Loosen the clamp screw and disconnect
the air trunking from the airflow meter (see
illustration).
3Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring plug from the airflow
meter.
4Release the two securing clips from the left-
hand side of the air cleaner cover, and
unscrew the two captive securing screws
from the right-hand side, then lift off the
cover.
5Lift out the filter element.
6Loosen the preheat hoses, fastening nuts.
7Undo the nuts securing the 2 rubber block
studs which are secured through the lower
half of the air cleaner housing.
8Some models are fitted with an inlet air
resonance box, to reduce induction noise.
This box is located under the wheel arch, and
connects to a pipe on the air inlet tube.
9The resonance box must be removed
before the air inlet tube can be removed. To
do this, first apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the vehicle, and support securely
on axle stands placed under the body side
members.
10Remove the securing screws, and
withdraw the lower splash shield from the
wing to expose the resonance box.
11Unscrew the single securing screw, and
pull the resonance box from the connector
tube (see illustrations).
12If desired, the air inlet tube can be
removed after pulling off the connector tube
from under the wing (see illustration).
4B•4Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
4.12 Removing the resonance box
connector tube4.11B . . . and withdraw the resonance box4.11A Remove the securing screw . . .
4.2 Loosening the air trunking clamp
screw at the airflow meter
Warning: Many of the
procedures in this sub-Section
require the removal of fuel lines
and connections that may result
in some fuel spillage. Before carrying out
any operation on the fuel system refer to
the precautions given in Safety first! at
the beginning of this Manual and follow
them implicitly. Petrol is a highly
dangerous and volatile liquid, and the
precautions necessary when handling it
cannot be overstressed.

4B
13Manipulate the air inlet tube to release the
securing lugs from the front body panel. This
is a tricky operation, and patience will be
required. For improved access, the headlamp
can be removed, as described in Chapter 12.
Refitting
14Refitting of all components is a reversal of
removal, noting that the air cleaner element
fits with the rubber locating flange uppermost.
5Air box - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1The air box, if fitted, is secured by two or
three bolts to the top of the throttle body.
Take note of the routing and connections of
the inlet air temperature control system
vacuum pipes.
2Disconnect the engine breather hose from
the air box and the vacuum pipe from the
rearmost of the throttle body’s three unions
(see illustration).
3Do not lose the sealing ring as the air box is
withdrawn.
Refitting
4On refitting, ensure that the sealing ring is
seated correctly in the slot in the underside of
the air box, tighten the screws, and reconnect
the vacuum pipe and breather hose (see
illustrations).
6Air temperature control -
description and testing
3
Description
1Fitted to models with Multec systems, air
temperature is controlled by a thermac switch
(thermostat), mounted in the air box. When
the engine is started from cold, the switch is
closed to allow inlet manifold depression to
act on the air temperature control valve in the
air cleaner assembly. This uses a vacuum
servo in the valve assembly to draw a flap
valve across the cold air inlet thus allowing
only (warmed) air from the exhaust manifold to
enter the air cleaner.2As the temperature of the exhaust warmed
air in the air box rises, a bi-metallic strip in the
thermac switch deforms. This opens the
switch to shut off the depression in the air
temperature control valve. The flap is then
lowered gradually across the hot air inlet. Until
the engine is fully warmed up to normal
operating temperature, only cold air from the
front of the vehicle is entering the air cleaner.
Testing
3To check the system, allow the engine to
cool down completely, then remove the air
cleaner cover; the flap valve should be
securely seated across the hot air inlet. Start
the engine. The flap should immediately rise to
close off the cold air inlet. It should then lower
steadily as the engine warms until it is
eventually seated across the hot air inlet again.
4To check the thermac switch, disconnect
the control valve vacuum pipe from the switch
union (on the rear face of the air box) when the
engine is running. With the engine cold, full
inlet manifold depression should be felt
sucking at the union; none at all should be felt
when the engine is fully warmed up.
5To check the air temperature control valve,
remove the air cleaner cover; the flap valve
should be securely seated across the hot air
inlet. Disconnect the control valve vacuum
pipe from the switch union on the rear face of
the air box and suck hard on its end; the flap
should rise to shut off the cold air inlet.
6If either component is faulty, it must be
renewed. This means renewing the air cleaner
lower casing to obtain a new air temperature
control valve, or renewing the air box in the
case of the thermac switch.
7Air temperature sensor (later
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug at the inlet air
temperature sensor.
3Release the hose clips and remove the air
trunking then remove the inlet air temperature
sensor from the trunking.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal but ensure
that the air trunking is connected to the
airflow meter as shown (see illustration).
8Depressurising the fuel
system - general
2
General
1The fuel system consisting of the
tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel filter, the
fuel injector and the pressure regulator in the
throttle body. Metal pipes and flexible hoses
of the fuel lines connect these components.
All these contain fuel that will be under
pressure while the engine is running and/or
while the ignition is switched on.
2The pressure will remain for some time after
the ignition has been switched off and must
be relieved before any of these components
are disturbed.
3Remove either the fuel pump fuse (num-
ber 11) or the fuel pump relay and start the
engine. Allow the engine to idle until it cuts
out. Turn the engine over once or twice on the
starter to ensure that all pressure is released,
then switch off the ignition.
4Do not forget to refit the fuse or relay when
work is complete.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•5
5.4B Do not overtighten the air box
screws
7.4 Removing the intake air temperature
sensor from the air trunking - later models
5.4A Ensure the sealing ring is located in
the air box groove5.2 Vacuum pipe connections to air box
A To throttle body B To air cleaner
Warning: The following
procedures will merely relieve
the pressure in the fuel system.
Remember that fuel will still be
present in the system components, so
take precautions before disconnecting
any of them. Refer to Section 2.

9Fuel filter (‘Out-of-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel filter is located on the fuel pump
bracket under the rear of the vehicle. Either on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustrations).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the filter is removed.
4Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
filter, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses are
disconnected.
5Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the filter. Be prepared for
fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
6Loosen the clamp bolt(s), and withdraw the
fuel filter from its bracket. Note the orientation
of the flow direction arrow on the body of the
filter, and the position of the “AUS” (out)
marking on the filter end face.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the flow direction markings are correctly
orientated.
8Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
10Fuel filter (‘In-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8).
2Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands
placed under the body side members. (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). The fuel filter
is located at the rear of the fuel tank, on the
right-hand side.3Unclip the fuel hose from the filter mounting
bracket.
4Note carefully any markings on the fuel filter
casing. There should be at least an arrow
(showing the direction of fuel flow) pointing in
the direction of the fuel supply hose leading to
the engine compartment. There may also be
the words “EIN” (in) and “AUS” (out)
embossed in the appropriate end of the
casing.
5Clamp the fuel filter hoses, then slacken the
clips and disconnect the hoses.
6Undo the single screw to release the
mounting bracket, then open the clamp with a
screwdriver to remove the fuel filter (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Fit the new fuel filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure, but ensure that the fuel
flow direction arrow or markings point in the
correct direction. Switch on the ignition and
check carefully for leaks; if any signs of
leakage are detected, the problem must be
rectified before the engine is started.
11Fuel pump - testing
2
Testing
1If the fuel pump is functioning, it should be
possible to hear it “buzzing” by listening
under the rear of the vehicle when the ignition
is switched on. Unless the engine is started,
the fuel pump should switch off after
approximately one second. If the noise
produced is excessive, this may be due to a
faulty fuel flow damper. The damper can be
renewed referring to Section 18, if necessary.
2If the pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay.
3To test the fuel pump, special equipment is
required, and it is recommended that any
suspected faults are referred to a Vauxhall
dealer.
12Fuel pump (‘Out-of-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel pump is located on a bracket
under the rear of the vehicle, either on the
right-hand side of the spare wheel well or in
front of the fuel tank on other models.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the fuel
pump (see illustration).
5Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
damper, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses
are disconnected.
6Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the pump. Be prepared for
fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
7Loosen the clamp bolt, and slide the pump
from its bracket.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the pump is fitted the correct way round
in its bracket. Push the pump into the rubber
clamping sleeve as far as the rim on the pump
body (see illustration).
4B•6Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
9.1A Fuel filter (arrowed) - ‘out of tank’,
fuel pump models10.6 Fuel filter - ‘in tank’, fuel pump type
A Clamp screwB Hose clips
12.4 Disconnecting a fuel pump wiring
plug - ‘out of tank’, fuel pump model
9.1B Fuel component assembly - ‘out of
tank’, fuel pump models
1 Fuel filter
2 Fuel flow damper3 Fuel pump

REF•4General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist. Do not
be too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, as
most of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted.
Fluid leakage
MAutomatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
onto the transmission by airflow.
MTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a)Fluid pan or “sump” (Chapter 1 and 7B).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1 and 7B).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
MTransmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
MChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
that may be caused by a poorly adjusted cable:a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being
used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
MRefer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
MLow transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MIncorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7B).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has
no drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists,
professional help will be necessary.
Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
MLack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter (Chapter 8).
MWorn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).
REF•16Fault Finding
Automatic transmission
Driveshafts
Noisy in neutral with engine running
MInput shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed), (Chapter 7A).*
MClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released), (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
MWorn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
MClutch fault (Chapter 6).
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
Jumps out of gear
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
MWorn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*
Vibration
MLack of oil (Chapter 1).
MWorn bearings (Chapter 7A).*
Lubricant leaks
MLeaking differential output oil seal (Chapter 7A).
MLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).*
MLeaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A).*
* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition.
This should enable the owner can communicate clearly with a
professional mechanic.
Manual transmission