stop start OPEL VECTRA 1988 Service Repair Manual

4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the pump from the camshaft
housing (see illustration).
5Recover the plastic insulating block.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their
correct locations as noted during removal,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
7Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately and rectify the problem
without delay. Note that the engine may take
a longer time than usual to start when the
pump has been removed, as the pump refills
with fuel.
7Fuel tank - removal,
examination and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) placed under the body side
members.
4Disconnect the exhaust system front
flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the
exhaust system with wire or string from the
underbody.
5Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust
system from its rubber mountings, and allow it
to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It
is advisable to support the rear section of the
exhaust at its front end, with wire or string
from the underbody, to avoid straining the
system.
6Unclip the handbrake cable from the
bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing
strap.
7Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
level sender unit located in the right-hand side
of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hosepositions for use when refitting. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
9Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from
the rear of the fuel tank.
10Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack with an interposed block of wood.
11Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps, then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the
disconnection of the remaining vent hose.
12With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the
tank sideways from the right-hand side of the
vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn,
some residual fuel may be released.
Examination
13If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel level sender unit, as
described in Section 8. This procedure should
be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it
is vital to take adequate fire precautions -
refer to the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual for further details.
14Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional. Do not under
any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a
fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour
requires several hours of specialist cleaning.
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
16On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the fuel tank has been removed,
as the pump refills with fuel.
8Fuel level sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clear metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
4The sender unit is located in the right-hand
side at the fuel tank.
5Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.6Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender
unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take
adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends
of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel loss.
7Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
8To remove the sender unit, engage a flat
piece of metal as a lever between two of the
slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anti-
clockwise.
9Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
10Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Examine the condition of the sealing ring,
and renew if necessary.
13Ensure that the marks made on the
sender unit and fuel tank before removal are
aligned.
14Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. Also check
that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage
is evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the sender unit has been
removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.
9Fuel vapour separator (1.6
and 1.8 litre models) -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel vapour separator is located on a
bracket attached to the side of the
carburettor.
2Note the locations of the three fuel hoses,
labelling them if necessary for use when
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel
spillage, and take adequate fire precautions.
Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
3Remove the two securing screws, and lift
the vapour separator from its bracket.
4Check the body of the separator for cracks
or leaks before refitting, and renew if
necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the three fuel hoses are connected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
6Run the engine and check the hose
connections for leaks on completion. If
leakage is evident, stop the engine
immediately and rectify the problem without
delay.
4A•4Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
6.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic
insulating block - 1.6 litre model

13Clean any foreign matter from the float
chamber. Renew the float, the float needle
valve and seat if wear is evident, or if the float
is punctured or otherwise damaged. Check
that the needle valve closes completely before
the float reaches the top of its movement. See
Section 15, for details of float level checking.
14Renew the diaphragms in the part-load
enrichment valve and in the accelerator pump.
If additional pump or valve parts are supplied
in the overhaul kit, renew these parts also.
15Further dismantling is not recommended.
Pay particular attention to the throttle opening
mechanism arrangement if it is decided to
dismantle it; the interlocking arrangement is
important.
16Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling. Use new gaskets and seals
throughout; lubricate linkages with a smear of
molybdenum based grease.
Refitting
17Carry out the following procedure before
refitting.
a)Position the fast idle adjustment screw on
the highest step of the fast idle cam.
b)Use a gauge rod or twist drill of the
specified diameter to measure the
opening of the primary throttle valve.
c)Adjust if necessary at the fast idle
adjustment screw.
d)Note that this is a preliminary adjustment;
final adjustment of the fast idle speed
should take place with the engine running.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
renew the gasket(s).
19After refitting, carry out the following
checks and adjustments.
20Check the throttle cable free play and
adjust if necessary, as described in Section 11.
21Check and if necessary top-up the
coolant level, as described in Chapter 3.
22Check and if necessary adjust the idle
speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.
14Idle speed and mixture -
adjustment
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding.
To carry out the adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required
1To check the idle speed and mixture
adjustment, the following conditions must be
met:
a)The engine must be at normal operating
temperature
b)All electrical consumers (cooling fan,
heater blower, headlamps, etc.) must be
switched off
c)The ignition timing and spark plug gaps
must be correctly adjusted - see Chapters
1 and 5
d)The throttle cable free play must be
correctly adjusted - see Section 11
e)The air inlet trunking must be free from
leaks, and the air filter must be cleanf)On automatic models, always select
position, “P”.
2Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser to the vehicle, according to the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
3Start the engine, and run it at 2000 rpm for
approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to
idle. If the idle speed is outside the specified
limits, adjust by means of the throttle stop
screw (see illustration).
4When the idle speed is correct, check the
CO level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the
specified limits, adjust by means of the idle
mixture adjustment screw. In production, the
screw is covered by a tamperproof plug;
ensure that no local or national laws are being
broken before removing the plug (see
illustration).
5On automatic models, when position “D” is
selected (all electrical systems switched off),
the idle speed should not drop perceptibly. If
it does, the vehicle should be taken to a
Vauxhall dealer for the idle-up system to be
checked using special Vauxhall test
equipment.
6With the idle mixture correct, readjust the
idle speed if necessary.
7If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and continue when the cooling fan stops.
8When both idle speed and mixture are
correctly set, stop the engine and disconnect
the test equipment.
9Fit a new tamperproof plug to the idle
mixture adjustment screw, where this is
required by law.
15Needle valve and float -
removal, inspection and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new carburettor top cover gasket must be
used on reassembly. A tachometer and an
exhaust gas analyser will be required to check
the idle speed and mixture on completion
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the round air cleaner, on
applicable models. On other models,
disconnect the air trunking from the air
cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and
breather hose from the air box. Extract the
three securing screws and lift off the air box,
complete with air trunking.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
carburettor.
4Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the
carburettor. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate fire precautions. Plug the end
of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and further
fuel spillage.
5Identify the automatic choke coolant hose
locations as an aid to refitting, then
disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for
coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or
secure them with their ends facing upwards,
to prevent further coolant loss.
6Disconnect the choke heater wiring plug.
7Disconnect the lower vacuum hoses from
the choke pull-down unit.
8Remove the four carburettor top cover
securing screws, noting their locations, as two
lengths of screw are used (see illustration).
9Lift off the top cover and recover the
gasket.
Inspection
10Hold the cover vertically, so that the float
is hanging from its pivot. Then tilt the cover
until the float needle valve is just closed - the
needle spring must not be compressed by the
weight of the float.
11Measure the distance, dimension x (see
illustration),from the bottom of the float to
the gasket surface on the top cover’s
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•7
15.8 Carburettor top cover securing
screws (arrowed)14.4 Tamperproof plug (arrowed) covering
idle mixture adjustment screw
14.3 Carburettor idle speed adjustment
(throttle stop) screw (arrowed)
4A

Fast idle cam position
20With the bi-metal housing removed, and
the choke valve gap “B”, correctly set,
continue as follows.
21Open the throttle valve, then close the
choke valve using light finger pressure on the
choke drive lever (see illustration). Close the
throttle valve.
22Check that the fast idle speed adjustment
screw is resting against the stop on the
second highest step of the fast idle cam.
23If adjustment is required, first check that
the choke return spring is correctly
positioned, then adjust by bending the
adjustment lever.
24Refit the bi-metal housing, as described in
paragraphs 10 to 14 of this Section.
Fast idle speed
Note: To carry out the adjustment, an
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required
25Check the idle speed and mixture, as
described in Section 14. The idle speed must
be correct before attempting to check or
adjust the fast idle speed.
26With the engine at normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
instructions, continue as follows.
27Position the fast idle speed adjustment
screw on the second highest step of the fast
idle cam (see illustration).
28Start the engine without touching the
throttle pedal, and check that the fast idle
speed is as specified. If adjustment is
required, stop the engine and continue as
follows.29Remove the tamperproof cap from the
fast idle speed adjustment screw, ensure that
no local or national laws are being broken by
doing so (see illustration).
30Ensure that the adjustment screw is still
resting on the second highest step of the fast
idle cam, then start the engine, again without
touching the throttle pedal.
31Turn the adjustment screw using a
screwdriver, until the specified fast idle speed
is obtained.
32If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and continue when the cooling fan stops.
33On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer.
34Fit a new tamperproof cap to the fast idle
speed adjustment screw, where this is
required by law.
20Automatic choke vacuum
pull-down units - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Main diaphragm unit
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new star clip must be used when refitting the
diaphragm unit. Test vacuum units as
described in Section 16, paragraph 1.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 17,
paragraphs 1 and 2.
2Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum
pipes.
3Using a pin punch, tap out the roll pin
securing the diaphragm unit to the carburettor
top cover.
4Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws, and
lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing
to one side, taking care not to strain the
coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
4A•10Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
19.18 Choke valve gap adjustment
1 Choke operating lever
2 Adjuster segment
B Choke valve gap
19.21 Fast idle cam adjustment
1 Fast idle cam
2 Adjustment lever
3 Choke drive lever
4 Fast idle speed adjustment screw
19.29 Tamperproof cap (arrowed) fast idle speed adjustment
screw19.27 Fast idle speed adjustment
3 Fast idle speed adjustment screw
4 Screw positioned on second highest step of cam

5Remove the three screws securing the
choke assembly to the carburettor body.
Allow the choke assembly to drop down, but
do not disconnect the choke linkage.
6Remove the star clip that secures the
diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover,
and withdraw the diaphragm unit.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new star clip to secure the diaphragm unit to
the carburettor top cover. Before refitting the
air box to the top of the carburettor, check
and if necessary adjust the choke pull-down,
as follows.
Vacuum pull-down
Adjustment
8With the air cleaner or air box removed from
the top of the carburettor, as described in
Section 17, paragraph 2, continue as follows.
9Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws, and
lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing
to one side, taking care not to strain the
coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
10Position the fast idle speed adjustment
screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam,
and check that the choke valve is closed.
11Move the pull-down arm towards the
diaphragm unit by pushing on the adjustment
screw until resistance is felt. Hold the arm in
this position.
12Using a drill shank of appropriate
diameter, or a similar item, measure the
clearance between the lower side of the
choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel
(see illustrations). Check that the clearance
is as given for the “small” choke pull-down
gap in the Specifications.
13If adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjustment screw in the appropriate direction,
using an Allen key, until the clearance is
correct.14Now push the pull-down arm towards the
diaphragm unit as far as its stop, and hold the
arm in this position.
15As before measure the clearance between
the lower side of the choke plate and the wall
of the primary barrel. Check that the
clearance is as given for the “large” choke
pull-down gap in the Specifications.
16If adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjustment screw in the appropriate direction
until the clearance is correct.
17Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke
lever, position the bi-metal housing on the
choke housing and loosely fit the securing
screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal
housing and the choke housing as noted
during removal, then tighten the securing
screws.
18Refit the air box to the top of the
carburettor on completion.
Secondary pull-down solenoid
Removal
19This unit operates in conjunction with the
main diaphragm unit.
20To remove the solenoid unit, first continue
as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and
2.
21Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum
pipe.22Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew
the securing screw, and withdraw the
solenoid unit and its mounting bracket from
the carburettor. Note that the securing screw
also secures the wiring plug earth lead (see
illustration).
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the wiring plug earth lead is in
place under the solenoid bracket securing
screw.
21Carburettor filter -removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1A small tubular filter gauze is fitted into the
carburettor top cover’s fuel inlet union to
remove any particles of dirt from the fuel.
2To ensure a clean fuel supply and to
prevent the risk of misfiring, poor starting or
other problems due to a restricted fuel supply,
this filter must be cleaned and/or renewed at
the interval specified in Chapter 1.
3To reach the filter, remove the air cleaner or
air box, as applicable, then disconnect and
plug the hose from the fuel pump or vapour
separator to the top cover union.
4Remove the filter by hooking it out with a
small screwdriver, or by snaring it with a long
thin screw (3 mm thread size, screwed
approximately 5 mm into the filter).
5If the filter is blocked or heavily fouled, or if
it is torn, distorted or damaged in any way, it
must be renewed. If it is fit for further use,
clean it using a jet of compressed air or by
brushing away particles of dirt with an old soft
toothbrush. Then flushing it in clean solvent,
taking care not to allow any overspray to get
into your eyes; if petrol is used, take care to
prevent the risk of fire.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•11
20.12B Checking the vacuum pull-down gap using a twist drill
20.22 Secondary choke pull-down
solenoid securing screw and earth lead
20.12A Choke vacuum pull-down adjustment
1 Adjustment screw 2 Diaphragm unit A Twist drill
4A

Wiring diagrams 12•55
12
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
E1Left parking lamp506
E2Left tail lamp507, 745
E3Licence plate lamp513
E4Right parking lamp509
E5Right tail lamp510, 746
E6Engine compartment lamp515
E7Left high beam 535
E8Right high beam536
E9Left low beam537, 747
E10Right low beam538, 748
E11Instrument lights728, 729
E12Selector lever lamp 498, 499
E13Boot lamp585
E14Passenger compartment lamp587
E15Glove box lamp677
E16Cigarette lighter lamp676
E17Left reversing lamp597
E18Right reversing lamp598
E19Heated back window652
E20Left fog lamp553
E21Right fog lamp554
E24Left rear fog lamp548
E25Left front heating mat660
E27Left rear reading lamp680, 681
E28Right rear reading lamp683, 684
E30Right front heating mat664
E32Clock lamp863
E37Left mirror make-up lamp686
E38Computer lamp854
E39Right rear foglamp549
E40Right mirror make-up lamp688
E41Passenger compartment delay lamp 588 to 590
E50Driver door lamp866
E51Passenger door lamp884
F1 onFusesVarious
F35Voltage stabilizer702
G1Battery101
G2Alternator114
G6Diesel alternator 402 to 405
H1Radio784 to 798
H3Turn signal lamp telltale716, 718
H4Oil pressure telltale710
H5Brake fluid telltale712
H6Telltale hazard warning system570
H7Charging indicator lamp710
H8High beam telltale722
H9Left stop lamp561, 749
H10Right stop lamp562, 750
H11Left front turn signal lamp572
H12Left rear turn signal lamp573
H13Right front turn signal lamp581
H14Right rear turn signal lamp582
H15Fuel telltale705, 706
H16Preheating time telltale715
H17Trailer turn signal lamp telltale717
H18Horn670
H19Headlamps on warning buzzer594, 595
H21Parking brake telltale713
H23Airbag telltale719
H25Heated back window & mirror telltale642, 765
H26ABS telltale721
H27Safety checking warning buzzer996 to 998
H28Seat belt warning telltale723
H30Engine telltale724H33Left auxiliary turn signal lamp576
H34Right auxiliary turn signal lamp578
H36Additional stop lamp563
H37Left front loudspeaker788 to 790
H38Right front loudspeaker794 to 796
H39Left rear loudspeaker788, 789
H40Right rear loudspeaker791, 792
H42Automatic program power telltale725
H45Four wheel drive telltale727
H46Catalytic converter temperature telltale729
H47Anti-theft warning unit horn838
H48Horn671
H51Traction control telltale720
H52Left front tweeter787 to 791
H53Right front tweeter793 to 797
K3Starter relay anti-theft warning unit109, 110
K5Fog lamps relay554 to 555
K6Air conditioning relay901, 902
K7Four stage air conditioning blower relay904, 905
K8Windshield wiper interval relay603 to 606
K9Headlamps washer unit relay619, 620
K10Flasher unit567 to 569
K20Ignition coil module149, 150, 171, 172, 241, 242, 302 to 305,
361 to 364, 1001 to 1005, 1055 to 1061
K22Coolant pump relay133, 134, 969, 970
K25Glow time relay440 to 443
K26Radiator blower relays972 to 974
K27Radiator blower relay137 to 139
K30Back window wiper interval relay613 to 615
K31Airbag control unit1191 to 1198
K34Radiator blower time delay relay356 to 358, 956 to 958
K35Heated back window & mirror time delay relay650 to 652
K37Central locking control unit805 to 812
K51Radiator blower relay430, 431, 942, 943, 956, 957
K52Radiator blower relay145 to 147, 433,435,
982 to 984, 960 to 962
K57Multec unit control211 to 230, 244 to 262
K58Fuel pump relay231, 232, 262, 263
K59Running light relay520 to 525
K60Compressor relay931,932
K61Motronic control unit270 to 294, 307 to 337,
366 to 396, 1007 to 1037, 1063 to 1096
K63Horn relay671, 672
K641 stage air conditioning blower relay913, 914
K67Radiator blower relay142, 143, 436, 437, 948,
949, 964, 965, 986, 987
K68Fuel injection unit relay295 to 299, 393 to 397,
334 to 338, 1093 to 1097, 1034 to 1038
K73High beam relay (Calibra)530, 531
K76Glow time control unit413 to 417
K77Glow plugs relay419, 420
K78Preresistor relay (70A)422, 423
K79Charge indicator relay406 to 408
K80Filter heating relay426, 427, 452, 453
K82Engine revolution relay447, 448
K83Four wheel drive unit control342 to 349
K84EZ Plus control unit155 to 166, 177 to 191
K85Automatic transmission control unit473 to 496
K86Check control unit736 to 752
K87Radiator blower relay945, 946, 953, 954, 977, 978
K88Catalytic converter temperature control unit462 to 464
K89Rear fog lamp relay543 to 545
K90Compressor relay (automatic transmission only)930, 931
K94Anti-theft warning unit control unit833 to 847

12•56Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models (continued)
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
K95Traction control control unit1125 to 1140
K97Headlamps washer pump time delay relay630 to 632
K101Parking position mirror relay774 to 777
K102Park brake shift lock control unit 469 to 471
L1Ignition coil150, 172, 205, 273, 241, 302, 361
L2Ignition coil1000 to 1004, 1054 to 1059
M1Starter105, 106
M2Windshield wiper motor601 to 604
M3Heating blower motor127 to 129
M4Radiator blower motor118, 120, 140, 356, 431, 948, 954, 980
M6Left headlamp wiper motor622 to 624
M7Right headlamp wiper motor 626 to 628
M8Back window wiper motor611 to 613
M10Air conditioning blower motor905 to 908
M11Radiator blower motor136, 434, 962, 984
M13Vectra/Cavalier sun roof motor1172 to 1175
M13.1Sun roof motor1172, 1174
M13.2Timing box microswitch1172
M13.3Timing box microswitch1174
M18Driver door central locking motor807 to 810
M19Left rear door central locking motor821 to 823
M20Right rear door central locking motor825 to 827
M21Fuel pump232, 263, 297, 339, 399, 834, 1098, 1039
M23Alternator blower motor135, 974
M24Headlamps washer pump632
M26Automatic antenna motor798 to 799
M30Driver side outside mirror638 to 641
M31Passenger side outside mirror644 to 647
M32Passenger door central locking motor813 to 816
M33Idle speed actuator285, 286, 317, 318, 381,
382, 1019, 1020, 1075, 1076
M37Tail gate/boot lid central locking motor818 to 821
M39Left headlamp levelling motor 692 to 695
M40Right headlamp levelling motor696 to 699
M41Fuel filler door central locking motor823, 824
M47Driver door window lifter motor867 to 871
M48Passenger door window lifter motor885 to 889
M49Left rear window lifter motor873 to 877
M50Right rear window lifter motor891 to 895
M55Windshield and back window washer pump617
M57Coolant pump134, 970
M60Calibra tailgate central locking motor827, 828
M61Calibra sun roof motor1178 to 1186
M61.1Sun roof motor1179 to 1182
M61.2Relay 11178, 1179
M61.3Relay 21184 to 1186
M62Driver side outside mirror760 to 767
M63Passenger side outside mirror769 to 776
M65TC throttle valve actuator1130 to 1134
M66Idle air stepper motor215 to 218, 250 to 253
P1Fuel indicator704
P2Coolant temperature indicator706
P3Clock862
P4Fuel sensor704
P5Coolant temperature sensor706
P7Tachometer708
P11Airflow meter 285 to 289
P12Coolant temperature sensor282, 381
P13Outside temperature sensor856
P14Distance sensor412, 413
P17Left front revolution sensor1110, 1154
P18Right front revolution sensor1113, 1157
P19Left rear revolution sensor1116, 1160
P20Right rear revolution sensor1119, 1163P21Distance sensor731
P23Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor160, 161, 185, 186,
217 to 219, 250 to 252
P24Engine oil temperature sensor162, 187
P27Left front brake lining sensor740
P28Right front brake lining sensor740
P29Intake manifold temperature sensor382, 1016, 1072
P30Coolant temperature sensor215, 248, 313, 1017, 1073
P32Heated exhaust oxygen sensor294, 295, 331, 332, 391,
392, 1034, 1035, 1093, 1094
P33Exhaust oxygen sensor229, 257
P34Throttle valve potentiometer221 to 223, 280, 281, 253 to 255,
383 to 385, 478, 479, 1018, 1019, 1074, 1075
P35Crankshaft impulse sensor178 to 180, 289 to 291, 248 to 250,
318 to 320, 373 to 375, 1025 to 1027, 1084 to 1086
P38Transmission oil temperature sensor494
P39Trailer bulb test sensor752 to 754
P43Electronic speedometer733
P44Air mass meter393 to 397, 334 to 338,
1037, 1038, 1096, 1097
P45Transmission input revolution sensor490, 491
P46Knock control sensor322, 323, 377, 378,
1022, 1023, 1078, 1079
P47Cylinder identification hall sensor325 to 327, 385 to 387,
1028 to 1030, 1087, 1089
P48Automatic transmission distance sensor488, 489
P50Catalytic converter temperature sensor463, 464
P53Driver side anti-theft warning unit sensor839 to 847
P54Passenger side anti-theft warning unit sensor839 to 847
P55Engine coolant temperature sensor415
P56Knock control sensor II1080, 1081
P57Antenna797
R3Cigarette lighter675
R5Glow plugs418 to 420, 441 to 443
R13Left heated washer nozzle 626
R14Right heated washer nozzle628
R19Radiator blower preresistor120, 140, 945
R22Glow plugs pre-resistor423
R23Driver airbag squib1194
S1Starter switch103 to 106
S1.2Key contact switch783
S2Light switch assy
S2.1Light switch504 to 507
S2.2Passenger compartment lamp switch587
S2.3Instrument lights dimmer728
S3Heating blower switch123 to 130
S4Heated back window & mirror switch654 to 657
S5Turn signal switch assy
S5.2Low beam switch536, 537
S5.3Turn signal switch580 to 582
S5.4Parking lamp switch501, 502
S7Back up lamp switch597, 599
S8Stop lamp switch562
S9Wiper unit switch
S9.2Interval windshield wiper switch601 to 604
S9.5Back window and washer unit wiper switch614 to 616
S10Automatic transmission switch472 to 478
S11Brake fluid control switch712
S13Parking brake switch713
S14Oil pressure switch710
S15Boot lamp switch585
S17Passenger door contact switch590
S20Pressure switch
S20.1Low pressure compressor switch925

Wiring diagrams 12•57
12
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models (continued)
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
S20.2High pressure compressor switch925
S20.3High pressure blower compressor switch939
S21Fog lamps switch555 to 557
S22Rear fog lamp switch549 to 551
S24Air conditioning blower switch904 to 911
S29Coolant temperature switch118, 137, 357, 942, 957, 972
S30Left front heating mat switch660 to 662
S31Rear left door contact switch591
S32Rear right door contact switch592
S33Traction control switch1130, 1131
S37Window lifter switch868 to 894
S37.1Left window lifter switch868 to 870
S37.2Right window lifter switch886 to 888
S37.3Left rear window lifter switch874 to 876
S37.4Right rear window lifter switch892 to 894
S37.5Safety switch872, 873
S37.6Window anti-jam off switch890
S37.7Automatic window lifter control877 to 882
S39Left rear door window lifter switch878 to 880
S40Right rear door window lifter switch896 to 898
S41Driver door burglary locking switch800 to 802
S42Passenger door central locking switch805
S44Throttle valve switch316, 317
S47Driver door contact switch593, 594
S52Hazard warning switch569 to 573
S53First gear identification switch372
S55Right front heating mat switch664 to 666
S57Sun roof switch1170 to 1183
S63Computer switch
S63.1Function reset switch856
S63.2Clock hours adjustment switch857
S63.3Function select switch858
S63.4Clock minute adjustment switch859
S64Horn switch672
S68Outside mirror switch assy
S68.1Outside mirror adjustment switch638 to 640, 758 to 762
S68.3Left/right outside mirror switch637 to 641, 759 to 763
S68.4Parking position switch765
S82Washer fluid minimum capacity control switch736
S882 stage coolant temperature switch120, 121, 137, 138, 430, 431
S89Seat belt switch998
S93Coolant minimum capacity control switch737
S95Engine oil minuimum capacity control switch738
S98Headlamps levelling switch691 to 693
S99ZV driver door window lifter switch865
S100ZV passenger door window lifter switch883
S101Compressor switch926 to 928
S102Circulation switch918 to 920
S103Transmission temperature switch350
S104Kickdown switch493
S105Start-up assistance switch495 to 497
S106Economy power program switch492
S109Acceleration revolution pressure switch921
S115Coolant temperature switch487, 488
S116Stop lamp switch564, 565
S117Hydraulic pressure switch346
S120Engine compartment hood (anti-theft warning unit) switch835
S127Calibra tail gate central locking switch831
S128Coolant temperature switch936,937S131Defroster lever limit switch918
U2Computer851 to 862
U4ABS hydroaggregate1102 to 1122, 1146 to 1164
U4.1Pump motor relay1102, 1103, 1146, 1147
U4.2Solenoid valves relay1104, 1105, 1148, 1149
U4.3Pump motor1102,1146
U4.4Diode1105,1149
U4.5Left front solenoid valve1109,1153
U4.6Right front solenoid valve1111,1155
U4.7Rear axle solenoid valve1113,1157
U4.8ABS control unit1106 to 1122, 1150 to 1164
U4.9Solenoid valves plug1109 to 1113, 1153 to 1157
U5Check control display
U5.1Washer fluid minimum capacity telltale741
U5.2Oil minimum capacity telltale740
U5.3Coolant minimum capacity telltale739
U5.4Tail light & low beam telltale738
U5.5Stop light failure telltale737
U5.6Front brake lining telltale736
U12Filter heater
U12.1Temperature switch426, 452
U12.2Filter heater427, 453
U13Automatic transmission
U13.1Solenoid valve (shift 1)481
U13.2Solenoid valve (shift 2)482
U13.3Solenoid valve (lock up control)483
U13.4Solenoid valve (pressure control)484
U17Roof antenna amplifier795
V1Brake fluid test bulb diode712
V8Air conditioning compressor diode926
X1 onWiring connectorsVarious
X10Anti theft warning unit code837
X13Diagnostic link164, 165, 189, 190, 226, 270, 271, 258, 259,
309, 310, 370, 371, 343, 344, 473, 474, 573, 725, 836, 837, 860,
861, 1012, 1013, 1069, 1070, 1118, 1119, 1136, 1162, 1163
X15Octane number plug157, 158, 182, 183, 225, 226,
257, 258, 284, 285
X54Ignition coding plug310, 311, 1014, 1070, 1071
Y1Air conditioning compressor clutch925
Y4Headlamps washer solenoid valve620
Y5Fuel solenoid valve410, 445
Y7Fuel injection valves287 to 294,320 to 327,
384 to 391,1025 to 1032,1078 to 1089
Y10Hall sensor ignition distributor153 to 158
Y11Hot start solenoid valve375, 376
Y12Charging pressure control changeover valve377, 378
Y18Exhaust gas recirculation valve1093
Y23Inductive sensor distributor201 to 208
Y24Distributor (inductive discharge)
Y25Acceleration revolution solenoid valve155, 177
Y30Cold start acceleration solenoid valve 448
Y32Fuel injection valve212, 245
Y33Ignition distributor175 to 177, 268 to 270, 238 to 240,
301 to 303, 360 to 362
Y34Tank ventilation valve293, 331, 332, 379, 380,
1092, 1016, 1017,
Y35Circulation solenoid valve918
Y44Four wheel drive solenoid valve350
Y47Park brake shift lock lifting magnet469

Inspection
17Examine the distributor cap and rotor arm,
as described in paragraphs 6 and 7. Examine
the O-rings at the rear of the distributor body,
and on the rear of the shaft, and renew if
necessary.
Reassembly
18Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
ensuring that the thrustwashers are correctly
located. Note that the drive collar should be
refitted so that the drive peg on the collar is
aligned with the groove in the top of the
distributor shaft (it is possible to fit the drive
collar 180°out of position).
19Refit the distributor as described in
Section 18, and then check and if necessary
adjust the ignition timing, as described in
Section 21.
DOHC models (where
applicable)
20The distributor cap and rotor arm can be
examined as described in paragraphs 6 and 7.
21Ignition timing -checking and
adjustment
4
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding. A
tachometer and a timing light will be required
during this procedure. For details of ignition
timing adjustment required to operate vehicles
on unleaded petrol, refer to Section 22.
14 NV and 16 SV models
Checking
1Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then switch
off.
2On 14 NV models, disconnect the vacuum
pipe from the distributor vacuum diaphragm
unit.
3On all models use a spanner applied to the
crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the crankshaft
clockwise until the notch in the pulley’s
inboard rim aligns with the pointer protruding
from the oil pump housing. On 14 NV models,
where two notches (indicating 10°and 5°
BTDC respectively) are found, rotate the
crankshaft until the second notch (in thedirection of rotation -i.e. 5°BTDC) aligns. Use
white paint or similar to emphasise the pointer
and notch, to make them easier to see.
4Connect a timing light to No 1 cylinder
(nearest the timing belt end of the engine) HT
lead, also a tachometer; follow the equipment
manufacturer’s instructions for connection.
5Start the engine and allow it to idle -the
speed should be between 700 and 1000 rpm.
6On 14 NV models, aim the timing light at the
pointer and check that it is aligned with the
crankshaft pulley notch.
7On early 16 SV models, disconnect the
ignition timing basic adjustment coding plug.
This can be identified by a length of Black
wire joining Brown/Red and Brown/Yellow
wires in a connector plug clipped to the wiring
or heater/cooling system hoses beneath the
battery/ignition coil (see illustration, 16.1). This
causes the MSTS-i module to adopt its basic
adjustment mode, sending a constant firing
signal corresponding to 10°BTDC and
eliminating any advance below 2000 rpm. Aim
the timing light at the pointer and check that it
is aligned with the crankshaft pulley notch.
8On later 16 SV, C 16 NZ and C 16 NZ2
models, the coding plugs are no longer fitted.
For accurate checking, special Vauxhall test
equipment must be used which causes the
MSTS module to adopt its basic adjustment
mode.
9Without access to such equipment, it is
possible to check and adjust the ignition
timing, accurate results cannot be
guaranteed. Owners are therefore advised to
have this work carried out by a suitably
equipped Vauxhall dealer; at the very least,
make the initial setting yourself and then have
it checked as soon as possible.
10If you do attempt to check the ignition
timing yourself, note that the fixed reference
mark is now an extended line embossed on
the timing belt lower outer cover.
Adjustment
11If the notch and pointer are not aligned,
loosen the distributor clamp nut and turn the
distributor body slightly in the required
direction to align.
12Tighten the distributor clamp nut, and
check that the notch and pointer are still
aligned. 13Stop the engine, and disconnect the
timing light and tachometer.
14On 16 SV models, reconnect the basic
adjustment coding plug. On 14 NV models,
reconnect the vacuum pipe to the distributor
vacuum diaphragm unit.
Other models
15No adjustment of the ignition timing is
possible on 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, as the
adjustment is carried out automatically by the
electronic control module.
16The ignition timing can be checked by a
Vauxhall dealer using specialist dedicated test
equipment, if a fault is suspected.
22Ignition timing -adjustment
for use with unleaded petrol
3
14 NV models
1All models with the 14 NV engine have the
ignition timing adjusted for use with 95 RON
unleaded petrol before they leave the factory,
and no further adjustment is required.
2Leaded petrol (98 RON) can be used if
desired, with no adverse effects.
1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 SOHC models
Note: Models equipped with a catalytic
converter must be operated on 95 R0N
unleaded petrol at all times, and although an
octane coding plug may be fitted, it should
not be tampered with
3Models, other than 14 NV, are equipped
with an octane coding plug, which is located
Engine electrical systems 5•13
20.16B . . .and withdraw the sensor plate -
1.6 litre (Bosch distributor)
20.16C Sensor plate screw (arrowed) -
1.6 litre (Lucas distributor)
20.16A Remove the securing screws . . .20.15B . . .and disconnecting the small
wiring plug - 1.6 litre (Lucas distributor)
5

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole. It can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and
re-spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. These can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-
contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer. This will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight miss-match in paint colours.
Bodywork fittings (e.g. chrome strips, door
handles, etc.), will also need to be masked off.
Use genuine masking tape and several
thicknesses of newspaper for the masking
operations.
Before beginning to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade
wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of
the primer until it is smooth. While doing this,
the work area should be thoroughly doused
with water, and the wet-and-dry paper
periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry
before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about
2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), repair of
more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of suchdamage by the DIY owner is not feasible
owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs.
The basic technique involves making a groove
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.), can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will have a problem of
finding a paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of
plastics come across in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally, will
not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but
special paints are available to match any
plastic or rubber finish can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit that consists
of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and
coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but the method of
use is to first apply the pre-primer to the
component concerned and allow it to dry for
up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied
and left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
5Major body damage - repair
5
Major impact or rust damage should only
be repaired by a Vauxhall dealer or other
competent specialist. Alignment jigs are
needed for successful completion of such
work, superficially effective repairs may leave
dangerous weaknesses in the structure.
Distorted components can also impose
severe stresses on steering and suspension
components with consequent premature
failure.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body