trailer PONTIAC G6 2008 User Guide

Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your
vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly
towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on
the ground and two wheels up on a device known
as a “dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.
Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment? See
your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be
towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip on
page 4-13.
Dinghy Towing
If you have the 3.9L V6 engine with the four-speed
automatic transmission, your vehicle cannot be dinghy
towed.
If your vehicle does not have the 3.9L V6 engine with a
four-speed automatic transmission, it can be dinghy
towed.
When dinghy towing your vehicle, the vehicle should be
run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel
stop for about ve minutes. This will ensure proper
lubrication of transmission components.
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Dolly Towing
To tow your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
a dolly:
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly.
2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key.
4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. You may also damage your
vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this section.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and
information about towing a trailer with your
vehicle.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering
capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information
in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this
section. Trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
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That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to
work harder against the drag of the added weight.
The engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
What is more, the trailer adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you will be driving. A good source
for this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and do not make starts at full throttle. This
helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle
wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted
speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph
(90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
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Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
When towing a trailer on long uphill grades and
the outside temperature is above 85°F (29°C), reduce
your vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h) to avoid
overheating the engine cooling system.
Ask your dealer/retailer for additional trailering
information or advice, or write us at our Customer
Assistance Offices. SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on
page 7-5for more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of
your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes
the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in
it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in
your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle
can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your
vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must include
the tongue load in the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-20for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total
loaded trailer weight (B).
After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on the
Tire-Loading Information label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-20.
Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for
your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
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Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to
the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them,
dirt, water and deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from
your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See
Engine Exhaust on page 2-35.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the
ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes?
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly. And because you may have
anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s
brake system. If you do, both systems will not work well,
or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when you
are towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed
vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument
panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you are about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It
is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
When towing a trailer on long uphill grades and the
outside temperature is above 85°F (29°C), reduce your
vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h) to avoid overheating
the engine cooling system.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transmission or into
gear for a manual transmission. When parking
uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When
parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you are
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for
more on this. Things that are especially important in
trailer operation are automatic transmission uid (do not
overll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly. If you
are trailering, it is a good idea to review this information
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-33.
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If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7),
use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane
rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer
towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane
unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than
87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when
you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If
this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher
as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated
at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the
engine needs service.
If your vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code B),
use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane
rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular
unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but
your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced,
and you might notice a slight audible knocking
noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the
octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy
knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a
gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If
you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and
you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.Gasoline Specications
At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specication
D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or
3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an
octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl
manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend
against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See
Additives on page 5-8for additional information.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certied to meet California Emissions
Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that
meet California specications. See the underhood
emission control label. If this fuel is not available
in states adopting California emissions standards, your
vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting
federal specications, but emission control system
performance might be affected. The malfunction
indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail
a smog-check test. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-38. If this occurs, return to your authorized
dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that
the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs
might not be covered by your warranty.
5-7

How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a re.
Too little uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission uid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.To get the right reading, the uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are
above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C),
you may have to drive longer.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare the vehicle as follows:
1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear, pausing for about three
seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever
in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ve minutes.
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