tires PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 2008 User Guide

Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are
not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If you do not have the Enhanced Traction System (ETS)
or the Traction Control System (TCS), or if the system
is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled
by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. See
Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-7or
Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until
your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
If you have the Antilock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you
do not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as
the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up
under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough
and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving
tips include:
Allow extra following distance.
Pass with caution.
Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
Keep the windshield washer uid reservoir lled.
Have good tires with proper tread depth.
SeeTires on page 5-62.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having
it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing.
Things to check on your own include:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Reservoir full?
Windows clean — inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:All levels checked?
Lamps:Do they all work and are lenses clean?
Tires:Are treads good? Are tires inated to
recommended pressure?
Weather and Maps:Safe to travel?
Have up-to-date maps?
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Highway Hypnosis
Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings
while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, nd a
safe place to park your vehicle and rest.
Other driving tips include:
Keep the vehicle well ventilated.
Keep interior temperature cool.
Keep your eyes moving — scan the road
ahead and to the sides.
Check the rearview mirror and vehicle
instruments often.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down
to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
4-16

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down and they
could get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have the engine running and your
vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency
supplies in your trunk.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some
winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight,
a red cloth, and a couple of reective warning triangles.
And, if you will be driving under severe conditions,
include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet,
or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction.
Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-62.
4-17

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the
road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a
lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can
offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it
is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
If your vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS)
or the Enhanced Traction System (ETS), it will improve
your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery
road. Even though your vehicle has a traction system,
slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions.
Under certain conditions, you might want to turn
the TCS or ETS off, such as when driving through
deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds. SeeTraction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-6orEnhanced Traction System (ETS)
on page 4-7.
If your vehicle does not have TCS or ETS, accelerate
gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you
accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and
repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from
the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel
as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-22.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too
severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn
the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage.
Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid
going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-84.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar
(B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will nd
the label attached below the door lock post (striker).
The Tire and Loading Information label lists the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and
the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in
kilograms and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight
includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and
all nonfactory-installed options.The Tire and Loading Information label also lists
the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire ination pressures (D).
For more information on tires and ination, see
Tires on page 5-62andInflation - Tire Pressure
on page 5-69.
There is also important loading information on
the Certication label. It tells you the Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear
axle, see “Certication Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1.Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2.Determine the combined weight of the
driver and passengers that will be riding
in your vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
Label Example
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or
even at all. You and your passengers could
be seriously injured. You may also damage
your vehicle; the resulting repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer
only if you have followed all the steps in this
section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice
and information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering
capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of
the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is
different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering
means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it
has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before pulling a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced
to work harder against the drag of the added weight.
The engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
4-29

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you will be driving. A good source
for this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch
dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
axle, or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that the
vehicle tows a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle.
This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle
wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted
speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph
(90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The total weight on your vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature, and how much the vehicle is used to
pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend
on any special equipment that is on the vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can
carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight of
additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo
in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the
maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information
or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance
Offices. SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-5
for more information.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on
the Tire and Loading Information label, that is located
on the driver’s side center B-pillar. SeeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Be sure not to go over
the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including
the weight of the trailer tongue. If a weight distribution
hitch is used, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit
before applying the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads
are a few reasons why the correct hitch is needed.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach
to the bumper.
If any holes need to be made in the body of the
vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure to
seal the holes later when the hitch is removed.
If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle.
SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-36. Dirt and
water can, too.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the
trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the
trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do
not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just
enough slack so the rig can be turned around. And,
never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
4-32