engine PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 2008 Manual PDF

Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer
but it will take much more effort.
Variable Effort Steering
If your vehicle has this steering system, the system
provides less steering effort for parking and when driving
at speeds below 20 mph (32 km/h). Steering effort will
increase at higher speeds for improved road feel.
Steering Tips
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned
on the news happen on curves. Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject
to the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface
makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path
when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction,
inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction.
If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice,
you will understand this.The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you
are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems — steering and braking — have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have
antilock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand
too much of those places. You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you are steering through
a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those
two control systems — steering and acceleration — can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the
road and make you lose control. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-6orEnhanced Traction
System (ETS) on page 4-7.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way
you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the
front wheels are straight ahead.
4-10

Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up
under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough
and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving
tips include:
Allow extra following distance.
Pass with caution.
Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
Keep the windshield washer uid reservoir lled.
Have good tires with proper tread depth.
SeeTires on page 5-62.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having
it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing.
Things to check on your own include:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Reservoir full?
Windows clean — inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:All levels checked?
Lamps:Do they all work and are lenses clean?
Tires:Are treads good? Are tires inated to
recommended pressure?
Weather and Maps:Safe to travel?
Have up-to-date maps?
4-15

Highway Hypnosis
Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings
while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, nd a
safe place to park your vehicle and rest.
Other driving tips include:
Keep the vehicle well ventilated.
Keep interior temperature cool.
Keep your eyes moving — scan the road
ahead and to the sides.
Check the rearview mirror and vehicle
instruments often.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down
to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
4-16

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down and they
could get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have the engine running and your
vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency
supplies in your trunk.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some
winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight,
a red cloth, and a couple of reective warning triangles.
And, if you will be driving under severe conditions,
include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet,
or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction.
Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-62.
4-17

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
4-20

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and
repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from
the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel
as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-22.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too
severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn
the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage.
Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid
going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-84.
4-21

Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or
even at all. You and your passengers could
be seriously injured. You may also damage
your vehicle; the resulting repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer
only if you have followed all the steps in this
section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice
and information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering
capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of
the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is
different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering
means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it
has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before pulling a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced
to work harder against the drag of the added weight.
The engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
4-29

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you will be driving. A good source
for this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch
dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
axle, or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that the
vehicle tows a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle.
This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle
wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted
speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph
(90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The total weight on your vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature, and how much the vehicle is used to
pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend
on any special equipment that is on the vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can
carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight of
additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo
in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the
maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information
or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance
Offices. SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-5
for more information.
4-30

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on
the Tire and Loading Information label, that is located
on the driver’s side center B-pillar. SeeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Be sure not to go over
the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including
the weight of the trailer tongue. If a weight distribution
hitch is used, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit
before applying the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads
are a few reasons why the correct hitch is needed.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach
to the bumper.
If any holes need to be made in the body of the
vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure to
seal the holes later when the hitch is removed.
If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle.
SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-36. Dirt and
water can, too.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the
trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the
trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do
not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just
enough slack so the rig can be turned around. And,
never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
4-32

The vehicle has bulb warning lights. When a trailer
lighting system is plugged into the vehicle’s lighting
system, its bulb warning lights may not indicate if one of
the lamps goes out. So, when a trailer lighting system
is plugged in, be sure to check the vehicle and
trailer lamps from time to time to be sure they are all
working. Once the trailer lamps have been disconnected,
the bulb warning lights can once again indicate if one
of the vehicle lamps is out.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the vehicle is
not shifted down, the brakes may have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If the vehicle has overdrive, it may be driven in
THIRD (3) instead of DRIVE (D).
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if the rig ever has to be parked on a hill, here is
how to do it:
1. Apply the regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply the
parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
4-35