Oil SAAB 9-3 2002 Owner's Manual

192 Car care
(80°C). This can be achieved by driving
the car for about 30 min on the open
road.
2 With the engine idling, move the selector
lever to D and wait for at least
15 seconds. Next, move the selector
lever to R and wait for 15 seconds again.
Finally, move the selector lever to P. Let
the engine idle.
3 Wipe the dipstick clean with a lint-free
cloth and put it back.
4 With the fluid at normal temperature, the
level should be between the MAX and
MIN marks on the dipstick. Top up, as
necessary, with Texaco Texamatic Dex-
tron III automatic-transmission fluid,
adding it through the dipstick pipe. The
distance between the MIN and MAX
marks on the dipstick corresponds to a
volume of approximately 0.4 qts
(0.4 litre).
If the outside temperature is below 50°F
(10°C), the fluid will not reach the specified
temperature of 175°F (80°C). In this case,
the correct fluid level may be 0.8 in (20 mm)
below the MAX mark.
CoolantThe expansion tank is transparent, to facili-
tate checking. The level must be a little
under the mark ”KALT – COLD” on the tank
when the engine is cold. If the SID message
"FILL COOLANT FLUID" is displayed, the
level in the expansion tank should be
checked. Top up as necessary with equal
parts of clean water and coolant. Use only
coolant approved by Saab.
If the expansion tank is empty when coolant
is added, run the engine to normal temper-
ature and top up again, as necessary.
Coolant The cooling system is filled at the factory
with coolant containing a 50% concentra-
tion of a combined antifreeze and corrosion
inhibitor. A weaker mixture will result in
reduced anticorrosion protection. For pro-
tection against freezing in very cold
weather, a stronger concentration will be
needed.
A 60% concentration of antifreeze will pro-
vide protection at temperatures down to
-58 F (-50°C).
NOTEIf there is a burnt smell or the fluid is black,
change the fluid as soon as possible.
WARNING
 Proceed with caution if the radiator is
boiling when you open the hood.
Never remove the expansion-tank
filler cap when the radiator is boiling.
Loosen the cap carefully, and let the
engine cool before removing the cap.
 The cooling system is pressurized –
hot coolant and vapor can escape
when the filler cap is released.
 Exercise care when adding coolant.
Coolant on hot surfaces constitutes a
fire risk.
IB892
Coolant expansion tank
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195 Car care
Power steeringCheck the level of the power-steering fluid
in the reservoir regularly, in accordance with
the service program.
The wheels should point forward during the
check.
Clean around the cap before it is
unscrewed.
Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick. To
check the fluid level, first screw the cap on
fully again and then remove. The level
should be between the MAX and MIN marks
on the dipstick when the oil temperature is
about 68°F (+20°C). If the oil is colder the oil
level can be lower, and in higher tempera-
tures the level can be higher, both of which
are acceptable.
Top up with power-steering fluid CHF 11S
(part number 8996860).
Battery
WARNING
Do not fill the power steering fluid to
above the MAX mark. Too much fluid can
result in leakage.
Power steering fluid on hot engine com-
ponents constitutes a fire risk.
WARNING
 Work on the battery may entail an
explosion hazard, since the battery
gives off hydrogen which forms an
explosive mixture with the oxygen in
the air.
For this reason, always avoid sparks
or open flames when working near the
battery.
 The battery contains corrosive sulphu-
ric acid. Always wear a face mask or
goggles when working on the battery.
 If battery acid gets into the eyes or
splashes the skin or clothing, wash the
affected area liberally with water.
If acid gets into the eyes or a large
quantity makes contact with the skin,
seek medical help.
IB896
Power steering fluid reservoir
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196 Car careThe liquid level in the car battery must be
checked at regular intervals.
Tap water contains salts and minerals that
accelerate the corrosion of the battery elec-
trodes, which can shorten the life of the bat-
tery.
The charge level should be checked with a
battery-acid tester. The specific gravity of
the acid in a fully charged battery should be
1.28. A specific gravity of 1.18 roughly indi-
cates a 50% charge.If frequent short journeys are made in cold
weather, the battery may need to be given a
booster charge. This can be done either
using a battery charger or by taking the car
for a long drive. A car with standard equipment and a fully
charged battery can be left for up to 40 days
and still have a sufficient charge for starting.
If extra equipment is fitted, such as a mobile
telephone, the time may be reduced to
about 15 days.
Always connect the positive (red) cable to
the positive (+) terminal of the battery and
the negative (blue) cable to its negative (-)
terminal. Always disconnect both battery
leads when boost charging the battery.NOTENever use tap water to top up the battery.
Use distilled or boiled water.
NOTEA discharged battery can freeze and frac-
ture. Batteries should therefore always be
stored away from frost.
NOTE• Don’t connect the battery terminals
+ and – the wrong way around.
 Serious damage can occur to the car’s
electrical system if a battery or alterna-
tor lead is disconnected while the
engine is running.
IB897
Taking out the battery
IB1173
Correct fluid level in the battery
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200 Car careChanging bulbs Headlight 1 Unscrew the cover from the back of the light units.
2 Unplug the connector.
3 Unhook the spring clip by pushing it forward and then to the side.
4 Remove the bulb.
5 Insert the new bulb, without touching the glass with your fingers.
Line it up so that the three lugs fit into the corresponding slots in
the reflector and secure it with the spring clip.IMPORTANT! When changing bulbs, use the same type of bulb,
(e.g. Long-life).
Headlight aiming, see page 227.
Parking lights The parking-light bulb is fitted in the same light unit as the headlight
bulb.
1 Remove the bulb holder from the lamp unit.
2 Then take the bulb out of the holder.
WARNING
Before changing a bulb in the engine bay, switch off the engine
to avoid the danger of fingers and hands being injured by
moving parts.
The radiator fan can cut in even when the engine is switched off. NOTESwitch off the ignition before changing a bulb, to avoid possible
short-circuiting. NOTEDo not fit bulbs with a rating above 60/55W, since the headlight
reflector and the wiring of the car are not designed for a higher
wattage.
Do not touch the glass of the bulbs with your fingers. The oil on
your skin can shorten the life of the bulb.
IB903
1 Headlight bulb
2 Parking-light bulb
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218 Car care
Flat spottingAll tires get hot, especially on long journeys
or when the car is driven hard. After the car
has been parked with hot tires and the tires
have cooled down, a flat spot can form in the
tire, where it is in contact with the ground.
The same can occur if the car has not been
moved for a long time.
Flat spots can cause vibration that can be
felt through the steering wheel, similar to
that experienced when the wheels need bal-
ancing. Flat spots of this type disappear
once the tires get hot again, usually after
10–15 miles (20–25 km) of driving at cruis-
ing speed.
Safety beltsA check should be made periodically to
ensure that the safety belts are working
properly.
 Hold the diagonal strap and pull it sharply.
The safety belt should lock and it should
not be possible to withdraw it further.
A sharp tug on the belt should cause the
inertia reel to lock. Check the floor anchor-
age points for corrosion damage. If a belt is
worn or has any fraying edges, it should be
replaced.
Safety belts must not come into contact with
substances such as polishes, oil or chemi-
cals. If the belts get dirty, wash them with
warm water and a detergent or have them
replaced.
WARNING
Safety belts and belt pretensioners that
were in use in a serious crash must be
replaced even if they are not visibly
damaged.
No attempt must be made to repair, or
modify the function of, safety belts.
IB923
Removing the wheel cover
IB925
Tightening sequence, wheel bolts
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219 Car care
Upholstery and trimTo remove fluff or hairs from the seat uphol-
stery or headlining, use a moist, lint-free
cloth or a special lint remover (brush or
roller). Remove any dirty marks using a
cloth moistened with lukewarm soapy
water.
When using a stain remover, always work
from the outside towards the center to avoid
leaving a ring. If a soiled ring or spot should
remain, it can usually be removed using
lukewarm soapy water or water alone.
Wet patches left by spilled soft drinks or thin
oil must be wiped off immediately using an
absorbent material, such as paper toweling,
and treated with stain remover.
Isopropyl alcohol is recommended for
removing grease or oil stains, and a
semi-stiff brush may also be used.
Cleaning and caring for leather
upholsteryThe principal reason for treating leather
upholstery is to maintain its elegant appear-
ance and to provide it with a protective film.
Discoloration caused by dust and wear
mainly affects the lighter shades, although
this is not detrimental to the leather –
indeed, the patina resulting from use is often
considered desirable in leather. But if the
leather is allowed to become too grubby, it
can start to look shabby.
The leather upholstery should be cleaned
and reconditioned twice a year in conjunc-
tion with spring and autumn inspections. In
very warm, dry climates the leather may
need more regular reconditioning. Recom-
mended conditioner - Saab Leather Care
Lotion.
Do not use unknown harsh polishing
agents, cleaning agents, sprays, coarse
soap or hot water.
The leather will be clean and attractive for
many years.
Textile carpetingVacuum clean the carpeting regularly. Car-
pets can also be cleaned using a brush, or
carpet shampoo applied with a sponge. Do
not use vacuum cleaners outdoors unless
they are properly grounded.
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221 Car care
Waxing and polishingDo not wax a new car during the first three
or four months. In fact, there is no need to
polish the car before the paintwork has
started to go dull through oxidation. Other
than in exceptional cases, do not use abra-
sive polishes containing a cutting agent on
a new car. Always wash the car thoroughly
before waxing or polishing.
Touching up the paintDamaged paintwork should be treated as
soon as it is discovered: the longer it is left,
the greater the risk of corrosion. The
anti-perforation warranty does not cover
corrosion resulting from untreated defects.
Paintwork damage sustained in a crash is
usually extensive and can only be properly
restored by professionals.
However, you can repair small scratches
and stone-chip damage yourself. The nec-
essary tools and materials, such as primer,
touch-up paint and brushes, are available
from your Saab dealer.
In the case of minor flaws in the paintwork,
where the metal has not been exposed and
an undamaged layer of paint remains,
touch-up paint can usually be applied
directly, after any dirt has been scraped
away using a pointed knife.
If corrosion has already set in, e.g. as a
result of stone-chip damage, use a pointed
knife to scrape off all surface rust. If possi-
ble, the damaged area should be taken
back to the bare metal. The metal should
then be primed with two thin coats of primer
applied by brush.
After the primer has dried, apply several thin
layers of topcoat enamel until the surface of
the repaired area is flush with the surround-
ing paintwork.
Stir both primer and touch-up enamel thor-
oughly before use and allow each coat to
dry before applying the next.
NOTE Try your brakes on leaving a car wash.
Wet brake discs reduce the braking
effect.
 Turn off the radio before entering an
automatic car wash so the power
antenna mast does not get damaged.
 Clean the rod of the electrically pow-
ered antenna about once a month with
a clean, dry rag.
IMPORTANT! Use no oil, nor any sili-
cone-based cleaning product.
 Fixed antennas must be removed
when going through an automatic car
wash.
Saab 9-3 Viggen: If you wash the car
in an automatic car wash, you must
first remove the roof-mounted
antenna, otherwise it will be damaged.
IB1271
Removing the roof-mounted antenna,
Saab 9-3 Viggen.
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222 Car careTwo-coat enamelAs the name implies, two-coat enamel is
applied in two operations. The first coat, the
base color, contains the pigment, metal
flakes and binder. The second coat consists
of a clear enamel, which provides the final
gloss for the paintwork and protects the
base from moisture and environmental con-
taminants.
Touch-up stone-chip damage as follows:
1 Thoroughly clean the damaged area.
2 Then apply the primer, base color, and
finally, the enamel. To achieve the best
finish, apply two or three coats of primer.
Anti-corrosion
treatmentThe entire car is corrosion-protected at the
factory in different stages by an electrolytic
immersion coating and a polyester-based
protective coating to protect against corro-
sion caused by stones flung up by the
wheels. A thin penetrating anti-rust oil is
also applied in cavities and body members.
In addition to conventional anti-corrosion
treatment like painting, underbody treat-
ment and cavity treatment, most of the body
panel surfaces are galvanized. These
include the hood, the doors and the under-
body.
The anti-corrosion treatment on the under-
side of the car and inside the wheel arches
is particularly exposed to constant wear and
possible damage, the degree of which will
obviously depend on driving conditions.
IB1334
Surface-treatment composition 1 Body panel
2 Zinc (certain parts) 7.5 µm
3 Phosphate coating
4 Cathodic ED 28 µm
5 Intermediate coat 35 µm
6 Metallic base/solid base15 µm
7 Clear enamel 40 µm
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224 Car careInspect the undercoating and touch up if
necessary. Pay particular attention to the
fenders and wheel housings, which are
exposed to abrasion by flying gravel, etc. If
the composition has worn or flaked off, the
steel must be thoroughly cleaned and dried
before a fresh coat is applied. The cleaning
is best done with a scraper and a steel wire
brush, followed by washing with solvent.
Apply the new coating thinly, otherwise it
may run off or fall off when dry.
Recovery and/or
recycling of automotive
materialsA typical car consists of metals (65–75%),
plastics (10–15%), rubber (5%) and small
quantities of glass, wood, paper and tex-
tiles.
Some of these materials can be recycled,
while others can be recovered in chemical
processes for reuse in new products or as a
source of energy.
While the Saab 9-3 was still at the draw-
ing-board stage, Saab engineers were
giving serious consideration to how the
maximum quantity of materials could be
reclaimed from the car on its eventual
scrapping. To facilitate sorting, plastic parts,
for instance, have been marked to identify
the precise nature of the plastic.Approximately 90% of the materials in the
car can be recycled or recovered, where
facilities exist.
Before the car is scrapped, all the oils and
other fluids that could pollute the environ-
ment should be recovered from the car. It
may be of interest in this context to learn that
the refrigerant used in the Saab 9-3’s A/C
and ACC systems (R134a) contains neither
CFCs nor any other chlorine compounds
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225 Car care
1 A-pillar trim: PC/ABS.
2 Windshield trim: PP, PP/EPDM.
3 Seals: EPDM.
4 Rear-window casing PUR.
5 Trim panel ABS.
6 C/D-pillar trim PP.
7 Rear light cluster: PMMA.
8 Corner filler panel PPO/PA.
9 Rear bumper
Expanded PP core
PP/EPDM sheathing.
10 Fuel tank PE.
11 Side-window casing:
PP/EPDM.
12 Side trim PVC.
13 A-pillar upholstery textile trim: polyester.
14 Rearview mirror: ABS.
15 Sill scuff plate: PP/EPDM.
16 Wheel-arch liner: PP.
17 Wheel cover: PA.
18 Direction-indicator lamp lens: PMMA.
19 Front spoiler: PP/EPDM.
20 Front bumper,
cellular core, expanded PP,
sheathing: PP/EPDM.
21 Fan shroud: PP.
22 Radiator grille: ABS.
23 Washer-fluid reservoir: PE.
24 Cowl trim: PC/ASA.
IB927
19 20 21 22 23 24 1 2 3 4
18 1716
15 14 13 12
11 7
10 98 6 5 ABS Acr ylonitrile-butadiene-styrene
ASA Acrylonitrile-styrene (acrylic plastic)
EPDM Ethylene-propylene rubber
PA Polyamide (plastic)
PC Polycarbonate (plastic)
PE Polyethylene
PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate
POM Acetal plastic
PPO Polyphenylene oxide (plastic)
PP Polypropylene
PUR Polyurethane
PVC Polyvinyl chloride
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