tow SATURN ION 2007 Owner's Guide

If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where
you live but also where you’ll be driving. A
good source for this information can be state
or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a
hitch retailer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst
1000 miles (1600 km) your new vehicle
is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (805 km) that
you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a
trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum
posted speed for trailers, or no more than
55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your
vehicle’s parts.
Do not tow a trailer when the outside
temperature is above 100°F (38°C).
Three important considerations have to do with
weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to
pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on
any special equipment that you have on your
vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the
vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
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Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight
of additional optional equipment, passengers and
cargo must be subtracted from the maximum
trailer weight.
You can ask your retailer for trailering information
or advice.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total
or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle
Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the
vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and
the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if
you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 250for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total
loaded trailer weight (B). If you are using a
weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A)
should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer
weight (B).
After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue, separately, to see if the
weights are proper. If they are not, you may be
able to get them right simply by moving some
items around in the trailer.
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and
platform (and attachments), safety chains,
electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start
your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply
the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead
when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re
a good deal longer when towing a trailer, you
will need to go much farther beyond the passed
vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one
hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left,
just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
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Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will
not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees
or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
See your retailer if you need information.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you are about to turn,
change lanes or stop.When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to
be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous
grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended,
higher than normal engine and transaxle
temperatures may result and damage your
vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to
allow the engine and transaxle to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
do not shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and
no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transaxle
overheating. If your engine does overheat,
seeEngine Overheating on page 297.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you are pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 391for more information.
Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle uid (don’t
overll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these
is covered in this manual, and the Index will
help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it’s a good idea to review this information
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 297.
Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing
If you get a at tire while towing a trailer, be
sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from
the vehicle before changing the tire.
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A. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 283.
B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan. SeeCooling
System on page 300.
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 283.
D. Intercooler System Pressure Cap. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 293.
E. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 308andHydraulic
Clutch on page 293.
F. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 290.
G. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 378.
H. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump
Starting on page 312.
I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. SeeCoolant
Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 297.
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 307.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 280
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several
minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you
do not do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick, clean it with a paper
towel or cloth and then push it back in all
the way.
3. Pull out the dipstick again, keeping the tip
down, and check the level.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning with no
warning messages, but see or hear no steam, the
problem may not be too serious. Sometimes
the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of
steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn
it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a
traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise,
shift to the highest gear possible while driving.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you
can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for
about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come
back on, you can drive normally.
If the warning continues and you have not
stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle
right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the
engine for three minutes while you are parked.
If you still have the warning, turn off the engine
and get everyone out of the vehicle until it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get
service help right away.
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If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, they are
directional tires and must roll in a certain direction
for the best overall performance. The direction is
shown by an arrow on the tire sidewall. Because
these tires are directional, they should be rotated as
shown here. These tires should only be moved from
front to rear and rear to front on the same side of
the vehicle.
Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire
rotation.After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front
and rear ination pressures as shown on the
Tire and Loading Information label. SeeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 250for an example of
the tire and loading information label and
its location on your vehicle. Make certain that all
wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut
Torque” underCapacities and Specications on
page 384.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel bolts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause an accident.
When you change a wheel, remove any
rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency,
you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do
this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the
rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire
on page 350.Directional Tires
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are
driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s
tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is
much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you
should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag
that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your
foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel rmly. Steer to maintain lane
position, and then gently brake to a stop well out
of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much
like a skid and may require the same correction
you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout
remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.
Get the vehicle under control by steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very
bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous
without the appropriate safety equipment
and training. The jack provided with your
vehicle is designed only for changing a
at tire. If it is used for anything else, you
or others could be badly injured or killed
if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the
jack provided with your vehicle only for
changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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6. Remove all of the
wheel nuts.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts
to which it is fastened, can make the
wheel nuts become loose after time.
The wheel could come off and cause an
accident. When you change a wheel,
remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to
get all the rust or dirt off.
7. Remove any rust or
dirt from the wheel
bolts, mounting
surfaces and spare
wheel.
8. Place the compact spare tire on the
wheel-mounting surface.
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