brakes SATURN VUE 2004 Owner's Manual

What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin
and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than you
would on dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-7.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in shaded areas where the sun can not reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. You may also damage your
vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this section.
Ask your dealer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part and see your retailer for
important information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with
the Red Line package. You can damage your vehicle.
If you are not sure if your vehicle is equipped with
the Red Line package, contact your retailer.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what
the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability
and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively
higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra
heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to
wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on
the Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear
edge of the driver’s side rear door or seeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 4-49. Then be sure you don’t go
over the GVW limit for your vehicle or the Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR), including the weight of the
trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust
on page 2-27. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop
to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap
into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do,
both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes, so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
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And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that
the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return
to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. See your
retailer if you need information. The arrows on your
instrument panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or
lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps
will also ash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
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When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may
result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops
are very important to allow the engine and transaxle
to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you
start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t
shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If your engine does overheat, see
Engine Overheating on page 5-31.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle, or into gear
for a manual transaxle.
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels
into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer
wheels.
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3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an
automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a
manual transaxle.
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more information. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle
uid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help you nd
them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to
review this information before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-31.
Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing
If you get a at tire while towing a trailer, be sure
to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the vehicle
before changing the tire.
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Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-15
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-21
Automatic Transaxle Fluid..............................5-25
Manual Transaxle Fluid..................................5-27
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-28
Engine Coolant.............................................5-28
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-31
Engine Overheating.......................................5-31
Cooling System............................................5-34Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-40
Brakes........................................................5-41
Battery........................................................5-44
Jump Starting...............................................5-45
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-51
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-52
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-53
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-53
Headlamps..................................................5-53
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps..............5-56
Fog Lamps..................................................5-57
Sidemarker Lamps........................................5-57
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL).........5-58
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................5-59
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-60
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-60
Tires..............................................................5-62
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-69
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-70
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-71
Buying New Tires.........................................5-72
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-73
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-15.
C. Engine Oil Dipstick. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-15.
D. Brake/Clutch Cylinder Fluid. SeeBrakes on
page 5-41andHydraulic Clutch on page 5-28.
E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeFuses and
Circuit Breakers on page 5-98.F. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-44.
G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. SeeWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-40.
H. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant
on page 5-28.
Before closing the hood, be sure all ller caps are
on properly.
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Hydraulic Clutch
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is
self-adjusting. The hydraulic clutch system does not
have its own reservoir. The system receives uid from
the brake master cylinder reservoir. It is lled with
DOT-3 brake uid. SeeBrakes on page 5-41for
more information.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is lled with
DEX-COOL®engine coolant. This coolant is designed
to remain in your vehicle for ve years or 100,000 miles
(166 000 km), whichever occurs rst, if you add only
DEX-COOL
®extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how to
add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem
with engine overheating, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-31.A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX-COOL
®coolant will:
Give freezing protection down to−34°F (−37°C).
Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as
they should.
Notice:Using coolant other than DEX-COOL
®may
cause premature engine, heater core or radiator
corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may
require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km)
or 24 months, whichever occurs rst. Any repairs
would not be covered by your warranty. Always use
DEX-COOL
®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder
reservoir is lled with
DOT-3 brake uid. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the
reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake uid level in
the reservoir might go down. The rst is that the
brake uid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the uid level goes back up. The other reason is
that uid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you
should have your brake system xed, since a leak
means that sooner or later your brakes will not work
well, or will not work at all.So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake uid.
Adding brake uid will not correct a leak. If you add uid
when your linings are worn, then you will have too
much uid when you get new brake linings. You should
add (or remove) brake uid, as necessary, only when
work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake uid, it can spill on
the engine. The uid will burn if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
uid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
When your brake uid falls to a low level, your brake
warning light will come on. SeeBrake System Warning
Light on page 3-30.
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