engine SATURN VUE 2006 Workshop Manual

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with
the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes
will have to do all the work of slowing down.
They could get so hot that they would not
work well. You would then have poor braking
or even none going down a hill. You could
crash. Always have your engine running and
your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you
go down a steep or long hill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your
engine and transaxle, and you can climb the
hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide
or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car
or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks
area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.
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If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in
a serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are
near help and you can hike through the snow.
Here are some things to do to summon help and
keep yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags,
rags, oor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
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{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any that
is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so
until help comes.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you
will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
rocking can help you get out when you are stuck,
but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle
can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment re or other damage. When you
are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible.
Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h)
as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back
and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-42.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-70.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. If your
vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system
off. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R)
and a forward gear, or with a manual transaxle,
between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R),
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear.
By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you
out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use the recovery hook if your vehicle
has one. If you do need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-48.
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4. If your vehicle has the manual transaxle, shift your
transaxle to NEUTRAL and let the engine run for
three minutes, then turn it off.
If your vehicle has the ve-speed automatic
transaxle, shift your transaxle from AUTOMATIC
OVERDRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine run for three minutes. Then turn it off.
Due to transaxle uid drain back, the transaxle
lubrication procedure in Step 4 is required every
seven hours after the initial procedure has
been completed, regardless of the vehicle being
towed or parked. Once the procedure is performed,
the transaxle is adequately lubricated and can
be recreational vehicle towed for seven hours
prior to repeating the lubrication procedure.
As an example, if you initially perform the lubrication
procedure and tow your vehicle for three hours,
then park for four hours, the lubrication procedure
will need to be performed again, prior to dinghy
towing the vehicle.
Notice:Towing your vehicle after shifting the
automatic transaxle (four-speed or ve-speed) from
anything other than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D)
to NEUTRAL (N) can cause internal damage
to the automatic transaxle. Always shift the
automatic transaxle (four-speed or ve-speed)
from AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N)
as the last shift before towing.5. Locate and remove the large IGN fuse from the
underhood fuse block. SeeUnderhood Fuse
Block on page 5-96.
Notice:If you tow your vehicle without performing
each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,”
you could damage the automatic transaxle. Be sure
to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure
prior to and after towing your vehicle.
Notice:If your vehicle has a four-speed automatic
transaxle, it can be dinghy towed from the front
for unlimited miles at 65 mph (105 km/h). If you
exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your
vehicle, it could be damaged. The repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Never exceed
65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
Notice:If your vehicle has a ve-speed automatic
transaxle and it is towed for more than seven hours
without performing lubrication process or at
speeds greater than 65 mph (105 km/h), you could
damage the automatic transaxle. The repairs
would not be covered by your warranty. Do not
tow your vehicle for extended periods of time or
at speeds greater than 65 mph (105 km/h).
After seven hours, repeat Step 4 above for the
ve-speed automatic transaxle.
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Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering
capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information
in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this
section. Trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment,
and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively
higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra
heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to
wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged. The
repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (805 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transaxle, you can use
INTERMEDIATE (I) or as you need to, a lower
gear which will minimize heat buildup and extend
the life of your transaxle.
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The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The
only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of
these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on
the Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear
edge of the driver’s side rear door or seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-44. Then be sure you don’t
go over the GVW limit for your vehicle or the
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), including the
weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do,
then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove
the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-27.
Dirt and water can, too.
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Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may
result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops
are very important to allow the engine and transaxle
to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you
start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If your engine does overheat, see
Engine Overheating on page 5-30.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle, or into gear
for a manual transaxle.
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels
into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the
trailer wheels.
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3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an
automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a
manual transaxle.
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more information. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle
uid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help you nd
them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to
review this information before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-30.
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Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle...........................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-19
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-21
Automatic Transaxle Fluid (2.2L L4 Engine)......5-24
Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.5L V6 Engine).....5-24Manual Transaxle Fluid..................................5-26
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-27
Engine Coolant.............................................5-27
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-30
Engine Overheating.......................................5-30
Cooling System............................................5-32
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-37
Brakes........................................................5-38
Battery........................................................5-41
Jump Starting...............................................5-42
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-47
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-48
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-48
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-48
Headlamps..................................................5-49
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps..............5-51
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL).........5-52
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................5-53
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-55
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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