SATURN VUE 2007 Owners Manual
Manufacturer: SATURN, Model Year: 2007, Model line: VUE, Model: SATURN VUE 2007Pages: 470, PDF Size: 3.1 MB
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If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where
you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this information can be
state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”
later in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst
500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven.
Your engine, axle or other parts could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered
by your warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (805 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can
use INTERMEDIATE (I) or as you need to, a
lower gear which will minimize heat buildup and
extend the life of your transmission.
If you have a manual transmission, you should
not use FIFTH (5) gear. Drive in FOURTH (4)
gear or as you need to a lower gear.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a
trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum
posted speed for trailers, or no more than
55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your
vehicle’s parts.
Don’t tow a trailer when the outside
temperature is above 100°F (38°C).
Three important considerations have to do
with weight:
the weight of the trailer
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires
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Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs
(680 kg). But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used
to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend
on any special equipment that you have on your
vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the
vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight
of additional optional equipment, passengers and
cargo must be subtracted from the maximum
trailer weight.
You can ask your retailer for trailering information
or advice.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total
or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle
Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the
vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and
the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers
or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue
weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow.
And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue
load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. SeeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 279for more information about
your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
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If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the
total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a
weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A)
should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer
weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue, separately, to see if the
weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able
to get them right simply by moving some items
around in the trailer.Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability
to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot
cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR
(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR
(Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect
of additional weight may reduce your trailering
capacity more than the total of the additional
weight.
Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs
(2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front
axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle.
It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg),
a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a
GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating)
of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg).
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The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least
10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and
because the weight is applied well behind the
rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater
than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times
as much. The weight at the rear axle could
be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).
Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the
total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to,
but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The
vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
But let’s say your speci c vehicle is equipped with
some of the latest options and you have a front seat
passenger and two rear seat passengers with
some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well.You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle
weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight.
Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
may think that you should subtract 700 additional
pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity
to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer
would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may
go further and think you must limit tongue weight
to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding
GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect
on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now
weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only
put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without
exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is
about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the
900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able
to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight.
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Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect
that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly
handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are in ated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You will nd these
numbers on the Tire and Loading Information
label. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 279.
Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for
your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR), including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you will need the
right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not
intended for hitches. Do not attach rental
hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it.
Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not
attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body
of your vehicle when you install a trailer
hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes
later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t
seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO)
from your exhaust can get into your vehicle.
SeeEngine Exhaust on page 123. Dirt and
water can, too.
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Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between
your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety
chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the
tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you
can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to
tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
If you do, both brake systems won’t work well,
or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the
trailer brakes, so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer
has electric brakes, start your vehicle and
trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes are
working. This lets you check your electrical
connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need
to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
See your retailer if you need information.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if
the bulbs on the trailer are burned out.
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Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing
your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous
grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended,
higher than normal engine and transmission
temperatures may result and damage your
vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to
allow the engine and transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you
start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If your engine does overheat,
seeEngine Overheating on page 334.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or
into gear for a manual transmission.
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away
from the curb. When parking downhill,
turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the
trailer wheels.
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3. When the chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an
automatic transmission or REVERSE (R) for
a manual transmission.
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance
on page 420for more information. Things that
are especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid (don’t over ll), engine
oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you nd them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to
review this information before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 334.
Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing
If you get a at tire while towing a trailer, be
sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from
the vehicle before changing the tire.
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