steering SATURN VUE 2007 Owner's Guide

Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is
about to stall, and I cannot make it up
the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you
should do, and there are some things you must
not do. First, here is what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and
keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the
parking brake.
If the engine is still running, shift the transaxle
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake,
and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
If the engine has stopped running, you will
need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed
and the parking brake still applied, shift the
transaxle to PARK (P), or shift to NEUTRAL if
you have a manual transaxle, and restart the
engine. Then shift to REVERSE (R), release
the parking brake, and slowly back down the
hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left
hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock
position. This way you will be able to tell if the
wheels are straight and maneuver as you back
down. It is best that you back down the hill with
the wheels straight rather than in the left or right
direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or
right will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall,
or are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N), or pressing the clutch if you
have a manual transaxle, to rev-up the engine
and regain forward momentum. This will not
work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very
quickly and you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the
vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough
to cause it to roll over if you turn around. If you
cannot make it up the hill you must back
straight down the hill.
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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you
will need longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in
mud —the deeper the mud, the lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle
moving so you do not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change
in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how
loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed
sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes,
your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking.
Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or
abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire
traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose
control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is
so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating.
And, if you do get moving, poor steering and
difficult braking can cause you to slide out
of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers
can be dangerous. Underwater springs,
currents under the ice, or sudden thaws
can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could
fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected
on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake
linings cleaned and checked. These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the
body structure, steering, suspension, wheels,
tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check
the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service
due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to
be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night
vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
Since you cannot see as well, slow down and
keep more space between you and other
vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.
Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so
much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe
place and rest.
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Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile
traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels
will spin and polish the surface under the tires
even more.
The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake
System (ABS) on page 235.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may
appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot
reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind
buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the
surface of a curve or an overpass may remain
icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you
see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before
you are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be
in a serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are
near help and you can hike through the snow. Here
are some things to do to summon help and keep
yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket
around you. If you do not have blankets
or extra clothing, make body insulators
from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
oor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to
keep warm.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn
the system off. SeeTraction Control System (TCS)
on page 238. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a
manual transaxle, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning
the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is
in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the
forward and reverse directions, you will cause
a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that
does not get your vehicle out after a few tries,
it may need to be towed out. Or, you can
use the recovery hook if your vehicle has one.
If your vehicle does need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 284.
Recovery Hook
{CAUTION:
The recovery hook, when used, is under
a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle
straight out. Never pull on the hook at a
sideways angle. The hook could break off
and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
Notice:Never use the recovery hook to tow
the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged
and it would not be covered by warranty.
Contact your dealer/retailer if you would like to
have a recovery hook installed on your vehicle.
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To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front
with two wheels on the ground, do the following:
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly.
2. If you have a ve-speed automatic
transmission or four-speed automatic
transmission, move the shift lever to
PARK (P). If you have a manual transmission,
move the shift lever to SECOND (2).
3.
Set the parking brake and then remove the key.
4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for
towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear
Notice:Towing your vehicle from the rear
could damage it. Also, repairs would not
be covered by the warranty. Never have your
vehicle towed from the rear.
Do not tow your vehicle from the rear.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need
to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
See your retailer if you need information.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if
the bulbs on the trailer are burned out.
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(F) Service Description:These characters
represent the load range and speed rating of the
tire. The load index represents the load carry
capacity a tire is certied to carry. The load index
can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is
the maximum speed a tire is certied to carry a
load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the tire
pressing outward on each square inch of the
tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds
per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:This means the combined
weight of optional accessories. Some examples of
optional accessories are, automatic transmission,
power steering, power brakes, power windows,
power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height
to its width.
Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is
located between the plies and the tread. Cords
may be made from steel or other reinforcing
materials.Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped
by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the plies
are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees
to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Tire Pressure:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch
(psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up
heat from driving. SeeInation - Tire Pressure
on page 374.
Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor
vehicle with standard and optional equipment
including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and
coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall
of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance
with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT)
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code
includes the Tire Identication Number (TIN),
an alphanumeric designator which can also identify
the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand,
and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are
driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s
tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is
much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you
should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag
that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take
your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel rmly. Steer to maintain lane
position, and then gently brake to a stop well
out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much
like a skid and may require the same correction
you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout
remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.
Get the vehicle under control by steering the
way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very
bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to
do maintenance or repairs is dangerous
without the appropriate safety equipment
and training. The jack provided with your
vehicle is designed only for changing a
at tire. If it is used for anything else, you
or others could be badly injured or killed
if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the
jack provided with your vehicle only for
changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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Instrument Panel Fuse Block
The instrument panel fuse block is located on the
passenger’s side of the lower console.
Fuses Usage
CRUISE Cruise Control Switch, Brake Switch
EPS Electronic Power Steering
IGN 1Instrument Cluster, Brake
Transmission Shift Interlock
Solenoid, Traction Switch, Fog
Lamp Switch
LOCK/MIRRORPower Door Locks, Power Mirror,
Entry Control
BCMBody Control Module, Front Wipers,
Windows, Sunroof
BCM (IGN 1) Body Control Module
AIR BAG Sensing and Diagnostic Module
RADIO (IGN)Radio, Power Mirror, Premium
Radio Amplier
TURN Turn Lamps
HVAC HVAC Control Head
HAZARD Hazard Lamps
HTD SEATS Heated Seats
RADIO Radio, Data Link Connector
PARKPark Lamps, Taillamps, Side Marker
Lamps, License Lamps
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