All wheel drive SUBARU LEGACY 1996 Service Repair Manual

G2M0084
1) Install baffle plate.
2) Install oil strainer and O-ring
3) Install oil strainer stay.
4) Apply fluid packing to matching surfaces and install oil
pan.
Fluid packing:
THREE BOND 1207C or equivalent
G2M0194
5) Apply fluid packing to matching surfaces and install oil
separator cover.
Fluid packing:
THREE BOND 1215 or equivalent
G2M0161
6) Install flywheel or drive plate.
To lock crankshaft, use ST.
ST 498497100 CRANKSHAFT STOPPER
7) Install housing cover.
G2M0076
8) Installation of oil pump
(1) Discard front oil seal after removal. Replace with a
new one by using ST.
ST 499587100 OIL SEAL INSTALLER
73
2-3SERVICE PROCEDURE
7. Cylinder Block

2. Engine Noise
Valve lash adjusters may make clicking noise once engine
starts. It is normal if clicking noise ceases after a few min-
utes.
If clicking noise continues after a few minutes, check
engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
Then, do as follows to cease clicking noise.
1) Warm-up engine for five minutes.
2) Turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Connect test mode connector.
4) Start the engine and run it at approximately 2,000 rpm
for twenty minutes.
5) Turn ignition switch OFF.
6) Disconnect test mode connector.
7) Start the engine and check that clicking noise is ceased.
If noise still exists, conduct troubleshooting procedures in
accordance with the following table.
CAUTION:
Do not disconnect spark plug cord while engine is run-
ning.
Type of sound Condition Possible cause
Regular clicking soundSound increases as engine
speed increases.Valve mechanism is defective.
Broken lash adjuster
Worn valve rocker
Worn camshaft
Broken valve spring
Worn valve lifter hole
Heavy and dull clankOil pressure is low.Worn crankshaft main bearing
Worn connecting rod bearing (big end)
Oil pressure is normal.Loose flywheel mounting bolts
Damaged engine mounting
High-pitched clank
(Spark knock)Sound is noticeable when
accelerating with an overload.Ignition timing advanced
Accumulation of carbon inside combustion chamber
Wrong spark plug
Improper gasoline
Clank when engine speed is
medium (1,000 to 2,000 rpm).Sound is reduced when fuel
injector connector of noisy
cylinder is disconnected.
(NOTE*)Worn crankshaft main bearing
Worn bearing at crankshaft end of connecting rod
Knocking sound when engine
is operating under idling speed
and engine is warm.Sound is reduced when fuel
injector connector of noisy
cylinder is disconnected.
(NOTE*)Worn cylinder liner and piston ring
Broken or stuck piston ring
Worn piston pin and hole at piston end of connecting rod
Sound is not reduced if each
fuel injector connector is
disconnected in turn. (NOTE*)Unusually worn valve lifter
Worn cam gear
Worn camshaft journal bore in crankcase
Squeaky sound—Insufficient generator lubrication
Rubbing sound—Defective generator brush and rotor contact
Gear scream when starting
engine—Defective ignition starter switch
Worn gear and starter pinion
Sound like polishing glass with
a dry cloth—Loose drive belt
Defective engine coolant pump shaft
78
2-3DIAGNOSTICS
2. Engine Noise

If noise still exists, conduct diagnostics procedures in
accordance with the following table.
CAUTION:
Do not disconnect spark plug cord while engine is run-
ning.
Type of sound Condition Possible cause
Regular clicking soundSound increases as engine
speed increases.Valve mechanism is defective.
Broken lash adjuster
Worn camshaft
Broken valve spring
Worn valve lifter hole
Heavy and dull clankOil pressure is low.Worn crankshaft main bearing
Worn connecting rod bearing (big end)
Oil pressure is normal.Loose flywheel mounting bolts
Damaged engine mounting
High-pitched clank
(Spark knock)Sound is noticeable when
accelerating with an overload.Ignition timing advanced
Accumulation of carbon inside combustion chamber
Wrong spark plug
Improper gasoline
Clank when engine speed is
medium (1,000 to 2,000 rpm).Sound is reduced when fuel
injector connector of noisy
cylinder is disconnected.
(NOTE*)Worn crankshaft main bearing
Worn bearing at crankshaft end of connecting rod
Knocking sound when engine
is operating under idling speed
and engine is warm.Sound is reduced when fuel
injector connector of noisy
cylinder is disconnected.
(NOTE*)Worn cylinder liner and piston ring
Broken or stuck piston ring
Worn piston pin and hole at piston end of connecting rod
Sound is not reduced if each
fuel injector connector is
disconnected in turn. (NOTE*)Unusually worn valve lifter
Worn cam gear
Worn camshaft journal bore in crankcase
Squeaky sound—Insufficient generator lubrication
Rubbing sound—Defective generator brush and rotor contact
Gear scream when starting
engine—Defective ignition starter switch
Worn gear and starter pinion
Sound like polishing glass with
a dry cloth—Loose drive belt
Defective engine coolant pump shaft
Hissing sound—Loss of compression
Air leakage in air intake system, hoses, connections or
manifolds
Timing belt noise—Loose timing belt
Belt contacting case/adjacent part
NOTE*:
When disconnecting fuel injector connector, Malfunction Indicator Light (CHECK ENGINE light) illuminates and trouble code is stored in
ECM memory.
Therefore, carry out the CLEAR MEMORY MODE and INSPECTION MODE after connecting fuel injector connector. (Ref. to 2-7 On-Board
Diagnostics II System.)
79
2-3bDIAGNOSTICS
2. Engine Noise

G2M0360
3) Remove right rear wheel.
4) Open fuel filler flap and remove filler cap.
5) Remove screws holding packing in place.
G2M0361
6) Lift-up the vehicle.
7) Remove fuel filler pipe protector.
G2M0353
8) Remove clip, and separate air vent hose from pipe.
9) Loosen clamp, and separate fuel filler hose from pipe.


1Fuel filler hose


2Air vent hose
10) Remove fuel filler pipe to under side of the vehicle.
G2M0364
B: INSTALLATION
1) Hold fuel filler flap open.
2) Set fuel saucer

1with rubber packing
3, and insert fuel
filler pipe into hole from the inner side of apron.
3) Align holes in fuel filler pipe neck and set cup

2, and
tighten screws.
NOTE:
If edges of rubber packing are folded toward the inside,
straighten it with a screwdriver.
G2M0353
4) Insert fuel filler hose approximately 25 to 30 mm (0.98
to 1.18 in) over the lower end of fuel filler pipe and tighten
clamp.


1Fuel filler hose


2Air vent hose
CAUTION:
Do not allow clips to touch air vent hose and rear sus-
pension crossmember.
17
2-8SERVICE PROCEDURE
4. Fuel Filler Pipe

G2M0248
2. CLUTCH COVER
Visually check for the following items without
disassembling, and replace or repair if defective.
1) Loose thrust rivet.
2) Damaged or worn bearing contact area at center of
diaphragm spring.
G2M0249
3) Damaged or worn disc contact surface of pressure
plate.
4) Loose strap plate setting bolt.
5) Worn diaphragm sliding surface.
G2M0250
3. FLYWHEEL
CAUTION:
Since this bearing is grease sealed and is of a nonlu-
brication type, do not wash with gasoline or any sol-
vent.
1) Damage of facing and ring gear
If defective, replace flywheel.
G2M0251
2) Smoothness of rotation
Rotate ball bearing applying pressure in thrust direction.
If noise or excessive play is noted, replace ball bearing as
follows:
(1) Drive out ball bearing from flywheel.
(2) Press bearing into flywheel until bearing end sur-
face is flush with clutch disc contact surface of flywheel.
Do not press inner race.
ST 899754112 SNAP RING PRESS
9
2-10SERVICE PROCEDURE
4. Clutch Disc and Cover

G2M0360
3) Remove right rear wheel.
4) Open fuel filler flap and remove filler cap.
5) Remove screws holding packing in place.
G2M0361
6) Lift-up the vehicle.
7) Remove fuel filler pipe protector.
G2M0353
8) Remove clip, and separate air vent hose from pipe.
9) Loosen clamp, and separate fuel filler hose from pipe.


1Fuel filler hose


2Air vent hose
10) Remove fuel filler pipe to under side of the vehicle.
G2M0364
B: INSTALLATION
1) Hold fuel filler flap open.
2) Set fuel saucer

1with rubber packing
3, and insert fuel
filler pipe into hole from the inner side of apron.
3) Align holes in fuel filler pipe neck and set cup

2, and
tighten screws.
NOTE:
If edges of rubber packing are folded toward the inside,
straighten it with a screwdriver.
G2M0353
4) Insert fuel filler hose approximately 25 to 30 mm (0.98
to 1.18 in) over the lower end of fuel filler pipe and tighten
clamp.


1Fuel filler hose


2Air vent hose
CAUTION:
Do not allow clips to touch air vent hose and rear sus-
pension crossmember.
17
2-8SERVICE PROCEDURE
4. Fuel Filler Pipe

G2M0248
2. CLUTCH COVER
Visually check for the following items without
disassembling, and replace or repair if defective.
1) Loose thrust rivet.
2) Damaged or worn bearing contact area at center of
diaphragm spring.
G2M0249
3) Damaged or worn disc contact surface of pressure
plate.
4) Loose strap plate setting bolt.
5) Worn diaphragm sliding surface.
G2M0250
3. FLYWHEEL
CAUTION:
Since this bearing is grease sealed and is of a nonlu-
brication type, do not wash with gasoline or any sol-
vent.
1) Damage of facing and ring gear
If defective, replace flywheel.
G2M0251
2) Smoothness of rotation
Rotate ball bearing applying pressure in thrust direction.
If noise or excessive play is noted, replace ball bearing as
follows:
(1) Drive out ball bearing from flywheel.
(2) Press bearing into flywheel until bearing end sur-
face is flush with clutch disc contact surface of flywheel.
Do not press inner race.
ST 899754112 SNAP RING PRESS
9
2-10SERVICE PROCEDURE
4. Clutch Disc and Cover

3. Performance Test
A: STALL TEST
1. GENERAL
The stall test is of extreme importance in diagnosing the
condition of the automatic transmission and the engine. It
should be conducted to measure the engine stall speeds in
all shift ranges except the P and N ranges.
Purposes of the stall test:
1) To check the operation of the automatic transmission
clutch.
2) To check the operation of the torque converter clutch.
3) To check engine performance.
2. TEST METHODS
Preparations before test:


1Check that throttle valve opens fully.


2Check that engine oil level is correct.


3Check that coolant level is correct.


4Check that ATF level is correct.


5Check that differential gear oil level is correct.


6Increase ATF temperature to 50 to 80°C (122 to 176°F)
by idling the engine for approximately 30 minutes (with
select lever set to“N”or“P”).
1) Install an engine tachometer at a location visible from
the driver’s compartment and mark the stall speed range
on the tachometer scale.
2) Place the wheel chocks at the front and rear of all
wheels and engage the parking brake.
3) Move the manual linkage to ensure it operates properly,
and shift the select lever to the 2 range.
B3M0286B
4) While forcibly depressing the foot brake pedal, gradu-
ally depress the accelerator pedal until the engine operates
at full throttle.
5) When the engine speed is stabilized, read that speed
quickly and release the accelerator pedal.
6) Shift the select lever to Neutral, and cool down the
engine by idling it for more than one minute.
7) Record the stall speed.
8) If stall speed in 2 range is higher than specifications,
forward clutch slipping on brake band slipping may occur.
To identify it, conduct the same test as above in D range.
9) Perform the stall tests with the select lever in the R
range.
CAUTION:
Do not continue the stall test for MORE THAN FIVE
SECONDS at a time (from closed throttle, fully open
throttle to stall speed reading). Failure to follow this
instruction causes the engine oil and ATF to deterio-
rate and the clutch and brake band to be adversely
affected.
38
3-2SERVICE PROCEDURE
3. Performance Test

C: LINE PRESSURE TEST
1. GENERAL
If the clutch or the brake band shows a sign of slippage or
shifting sensation is not correct, the line pressure should be
checked.
Excessive shocks during upshifting or shifting takes
place at a higher point than under normal circumstances,
may be due to the line pressure being too high.
Slippage or inability to operate the vehicle may, in most
cases, be due to loss of oil pressure for the operation of
the clutch, brake band or control valve.
G3M0869
1) Line pressure measurement (under no load)
CAUTION:
Before measuring line pressure, jack-up front
wheels (front-wheel-drive model) or all wheels (4-wheel
drive model).
Maintain temperature of ATF at approximately 50°C
(122°F) during measurement.
(ATF will reach the above temperature after idling the
engine for approximately 30 minutes with select lever
in“N”or“P”.)
G3M0869
2) Line pressure measurement (under heavy load)
CAUTION:
Before measuring line pressure, apply both foot and
parking brakes with all wheels chocked (Same as for
“stall”test conditions).
Measure line pressure when select lever is in“R”,
“2”with engine under stall conditions.
Measure line pressure within 5 seconds after shift-
ing the select lever to each position. (If line pressure
needs to be measured again, allow the engine to idle
and then stop. Wait for at least one minute before mea-
surement.)
Maintain the temperature of ATF at approximately
50°C (122°F) during measurement. (ATF will reach the
above temperature after idling the engine for approxi-
mately 30 minutes with the select lever in“N”or“P”.)
41
3-2SERVICE PROCEDURE
3. Performance Test

1. Rear Differential
Symptom and possible cause Remedy
1. Oil leakage


1Worn, scratched, or incorrectly seated front or side oil seal.
Scored, battered, or excessively worn sliding surface of com-
panion flange.Repair or replace.


2Clogged or damaged air breather. Clean, repair or replace.


3Loose bolts on differential spindle or side retainer, or incor-
rectly fitted O-ring.Tighten bolts to specified torque. Replace O-ring.


4Loose rear cover attaching bolts or damaged gasket. Tighten bolts to specified torque. Replace gasket and apply liquid
packing.


5Loose oil filler or drain plug. Retighten and apply liquid packing.


6Wear, damage or incorrectly fitting for spindle, side retainer
and oil seal.Repair or replace.
2. Seizure
Seized or damaged parts should be replaced, and also other parts should be thoroughly checked for any defect and should be
repaired or replaced as required.


1Insufficient backlash for hypoid gear. Readjust or replace.


2Excessive preload for side, rear, or front bearing. Readjust or replace.


3Insufficient or improper oil used. Replace seized part and fill with specified oil to specified level.
3. Damage
Damaged parts should be replaced, and also other parts should be thoroughly checked for any defect and should be repaired or
replaced as required.


1Improper backlash for hypoid gear. Replace.


2Insufficient or excessive preload for side, rear, or front bear-
ing.Readjust or replace.


3Excessive backlash for differential gear. Replace gear or thrust washer.


4Loose bolts and nuts such as crown gear bolt. Retighten.


5Damage due to overloading. Replace.
4. Noises when starting or shifting gears
Noises may be caused by differential assembly, universal joint, wheel bearing, etc. Find out what is actually making noise before dis-
assembly.


1Excessive backlash for hypoid gear. Readjust.


2Excessive backlash for differential gear. Replace gear or thrust washer.


3Insufficient preload for front or rear bearing. Readjust.


4Loose drive pinion nut. Tighten to specified torque.


5Loose bolts and nuts such as side bearing retainer attaching
bolt.Tighten to specified torque.
40
3-4DIAGNOSTICS
1. Rear Differential