engine oil YAMAHA WR 450F 2010 Owner's Manual
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Page 82 of 230
3-23
CHASSIS
When installing the drive chain, apply
the lithium soap base grease on the
chain joint and O-rings.
7. Install:
• Link plate
• Press the link plate onto the chain
joint using a drive chain riveter "5".
• Rivet the end of the chain joint us-
ing a drive chain riveter.
• After riveting the chain joint, make
sure its movement is smooth.
8. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".
c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine as well as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Page 83 of 230
3-24
CHASSIS
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screw
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Remove:
• Rubber cap
2. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
3. Install:
• Rubber cap
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame
3. Measure:
• Spring fitting length
The I.D. mark "a" is marked at the end
of the spring.
4. Adjust:
• Spring preload
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1". Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
8 clicks out
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
9 clicks out
Standard fitting length:
I.D. MARK/Q'TY Length
Pink/1 252.5 mm
(9.94 in)
* 251.5 mm
(9.90 in)
* For EUROPE
Page 88 of 230
3-29
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
1. Remove:
• Spark plug
2. Inspect:
• Electrode "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
• Insulator color "2"
Normal condition is a medium to
light tan color.
Distinctly different color→Check
the engine condition.
When the engine runs for many hours
at low speeds, the spark plug insula-
tor will become sooty, even if the en-
gine and carburetor are in good
operating condition.
3. Measure:
• Plug gap "a"
Use a wire gauge or thickness
gauge.
Out of specification→Regap.
4. Clean the plug with a spark plug
cleaner if necessary.
5. Tighten:
• Spark plug
• Before installing a spark plug, clean
the gasket surface and plug sur-
face.
• Finger-tighten "a" the spark plug
before torquing to specification "b".
CHECKING THE IGNITION TIMING
1. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"
2. Attach:
• Timing light
• Digital tachometer
To the ignition coil lead (orange
lead"1").
3. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE EN-
GINE IDLING SPEED" section.
4. Check:
• Ignition timing
Visually check the stationary
pointer "a" is within the firing
range "b" on the rotor.
Incorrect firing range→Check ro-
tor and pickup assembly.
5. Install:
• Timing mark accessing screw
CHECKING AND CHARGING THE
BATTERY
Batteries generate explosive hy-
drogen gas and contain electrolyte
which is made of poisonous and
highly caustic sulfuric acid. There-
fore, always follow these preven-
tive measures:
• Wear protective eye gear when
handling or working near batter-
ies.• Charge batteries in a well-venti-
lated area.
• Keep batteries away from fire,
sparks or open flames (e.g.,
welding equipment, lighted ciga-
rettes).
• DO NOT SMOKE when charging
or handling batteries.
• KEEP BATTERIES AND ELEC-
TROLYTE OUT OF REACH OF
CHILDREN.
• Avoid bodily contact with elec-
trolyte as it can cause severe
burns or permanent eye injury.
FIRST AID IN CASE OF BODILY
CONTACT:
EXTERNAL
• Skin — Wash with water.
• Eyes — Flush with water for 15
minutes and get immediate med-
ical attention.
INTERNAL
• Drink large quantities of water or
milk followed with milk of magne-
sia, beaten egg or vegetable oil.
Get immediate medical attention.
Charging time, charging amperage
and charging voltage for an MF
battery are different from those of
conventional batteries. The MF
battery should be charged as ex-
plained in the charging method il-
lustrations. If the battery is
overcharged, the electrolyte level
will drop considerably. Therefore,
take special care when charging
the battery.
Since MF batteries are sealed, it is
not possible to check the charge state
of the battery by measuring the spe-
cific gravity of the electrolyte. There-
fore, the charge of the battery has to
be checked by measuring the voltage
at the battery terminals.
1. Remove:
• Seat
2. Disconnect:
• Battery leads
(from the battery terminals)
First, disconnect the negative bat-
tery lead "1", and then the positive
battery lead "2".
Spark plug gap:
0.7–0.8 mm (0.028–
0.031 in)
Spark plug:
13 Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4
ft•lb)
Timing light:
YM-33277-A/90890-
03141
Page 98 of 230
4-5
CHASSIS
CHASSIS
SELECTION OF THE SECONDARY
REDUCTION RATIO (SPROCKET)
• It is generally said that the second-
ary gear ratio should be reduced for
a longer straight portion of a speed
course and should be increased for
a course with many corners. Actual-
ly, however, as the speed depends
on the ground condition of the day
of the ride, be sure to run through
the circuit to set the machine suit-
able for the entire course.
• In actuality, it is very difficult to
achieve settings suitable for the en-
tire course and some settings may
be sacrificed. Thus, the settings
should be matched to the portion of
the course that has the greatest ef-
fect on the ride result. In such a
case, run through the entire course
while making notes of lap times to
find the best balance; then, deter-
mine the secondary reduction ratio.
• If a course has a long straight por-
tion where a machine can run at
maximum speed, the machine is
generally set such that it can devel-
op its maximum revolutions toward
the end of the straight line, with care
taken to avoid the engine over-rev-
ving.
Riding technique varies from rider to
rider and the performance of a ma-
chine also vary from machine to ma-
chine. Therefore, do not imitate other
rider's settings from the beginning but
choose your own setting according to
the level of your riding technique.
DRIVE AND REAR WHEEL
SPROCKETS SETTING PARTSTIRE PRESSURE
Tire pressure should be adjust to suit
the road surface condition of the cir-
cuit.
• Under a rainy, muddy, sandy, or
slippery condition, the tire pressure
should be lower for a larger area of
contact with the road surface.
• Under a stony or hard road condi-
tion, the tire pressure should be
higher to prevent a flat tire.
FRONT FORK SETTING
The front fork setting should be made
depending on the rider's feeling of an
actual run and the circuit conditions.
The front fork setting includes the fol-
lowing three factors:
1. Setting of air spring characteris-
tics
• Change the fork oil level.
2. Setting of spring preload
• Change the spring.
• Install the adjustment washer.
3. Setting of damping force
• Change the compression damp-
ing.
• Change the rebound damping.
The spring acts on the load and
the damping force acts on the
cushion travel speed.
CHANGE IN LEVEL AND
CHARACTERISTICS OF FORK OIL
Damping characteristic near the final
stroke can be changed by changing
the fork oil amount.
Adjust the oil level in 5 mm (0.2 in)
increments or decrements. Too
low oil level causes the front fork
to produce a noise at full rebound
or the rider to feel some pressure
on his hands or body. Alternative-
ly, too high oil level will develop
unexpectedly early oil lock with
the consequent shorter front fork
travel and deteriorated perfor-
mance and characteristics. There-
fore, adjust the front fork within
the specified range.
Secondary reduction ratio =
Number of rear wheel sprocket
teeth/Number of drive sprocket
teeth
Standard secondary
reduction ratio50/13
(3.846)
* 47/14
(3.357)
* For EUROPE
Part
nameSize Part number
Drive
sprocket
"1"
*(STD) *13T 9383E-13233
(STD) 13T 5TJ-17460-00
* 14T 9383E-14215
** (STD) ** 14T 5NG-17460-00
* For AUS and NZ
** For EUROPE
Part
nameSize Part number
Rear
wheel
sprocket
"2"
** (STD) ** 47T 1C3-25447-00
48T 5GS-25448-50
* 48T 1C3-25448-00
* 49T 1C3-25449-00
(STD) 50T 5TJ-25450-80
* (STD) * 50T 1C3-25450-00
* 51T 1C3-25451-00
52T 5TJ-25452-80
* 52T 1C3-25452-00
* For AUS and NZ
** For EUROPE
Standard tire pressure:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2,
15 psi)
Extent of adjustment:
60–80 kPa (0.6–0.8 kgf/
cm
2, 9.0–12 psi)
Extent of adjustment:
100–120 kPa (1.0–1.2
kgf/cm
2, 15–18 psi)
Page 122 of 230
5-19
CAMSHAFTS
INSTALLING THE CAMSHAFT
1. Install:
• Exhaust camshaft "1"
• Intake camshaft "2"
Installation steps:
a. Turn the crankshaft counterclock-
wise with a wrench.
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the camshafts.
• Apply the engine oil on the decom-
pression system.
b. Align the T.D.C. mark "a" on the
rotor with the align mark "b" on the
crankcase cover when piston is at
T.D.C. on compression stroke.
c. Fit the timing chain "3" onto both
camshaft sprockets and install the
camshafts on the cylinder head.
The camshafts should be installed
onto the cylinder head so that the
punch mark "c" on the exhaust cam-
shaft and the punch mark "d" on the
intake camshaft must align with the
cylinder head surface, as shown in
the illustration.
Do not turn the crankshaft during
the camshaft installation. Damage
or improper valve timing will re-
sult.
d. Install the clips, camshaft caps "4"
and bolts (camshaft cap) "5".
• Before installing the clips, cover the
cylinder head with a clean rag to
prevent the clips from into the cylin-
der head cavity.
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the thread of the bolts (camshaft
cap).
• Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque in two or three steps in the
proper tightening sequence as
shown.
The bolts (camshaft cap) must be
tightened evenly, or damage to the
cylinder head, camshaft caps, and
camshaft will result.
2. Install:
• Timing chain tensioner
Installation steps:
a. While pressing the tensioner rod
lightly with fingers, use a thin
screwdriver and wind the tension-
er rod up fully clockwise.
b. With the rod fully wound and the
chain tensioner UP mark "a" fac-
ing upward, install the gasket "1",
the timing chain tensioner "2", and
the gasket "3", and tighten the bolt
"4" to the specified torque.c. Release the screwdriver, check
the tensioner rod to come out and
tighten the gasket "5" and the cap
bolt "6" to the specified torque.
3. Turn:
• Crankshaft
Counterclockwise several turns.
4. Check:
• Rotor T.D.C. mark
Align with the crankcase align
mark.
• Camshaft match marks
Align with the cylinder head sur-
face.
Out of alignment→Adjust.
Bolt (camshaft cap):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (timing chain ten-
sioner):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Tensioner cap bolt:
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Page 129 of 230
5-26
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
h. Press the valve through the valve
guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
i. Measure the valve seat width
again. If the valve seat width is out
of specification, reface and relap
the valve seat.
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Valve spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
2. Measure:
• Compressed spring force "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
b. Installed length
3. Measure:
• Spring tilt "a"
Out of specification→Replace.CHECKING THE VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect:
• Valve lifter
Scratches/damage→Replace
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply:
• Molybdenum disulfide oil
Onto the valve stem and valve
stem seal.
2. Install:
• Valves "1"
• Valve spring seats "2"
• Valve stem seals "3"
• Valve springs "4"
• Valve spring retainers "5"
• Make sure that each valve is in-
stalled in its original place, also re-
ferring to the painted color as
follows.
Intake (middle) "a": blue
Intake (right/left) "b": gray
Exhaust "c": brown
• Install the valve springs with the
larger pitch "d" facing upward.
e. Smaller pitch
3. Install:
• Valve cotters
While compressing the valve spring
with a valve spring compressor "1" in-
stall the valve cotters.
4. To secure the valve cotters onto
the valve stem, lightly tap the
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:
• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift-
ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly
when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters
and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve
spring):
Intake:
39.46 mm (1.55 in)
(1.51 in)
Exhaust:
37.61 mm (1.48 in)
(1.44 in)
Compressed spring
force:
Intake:
130.2–149.8 N at 27.87
mm (13.28–15.28 kg at
27.87 mm, 29.27–
33.68 lb at 1.10 in)
Exhaust:
123.1–141.7 N at 28.38
mm (12.55–14.45 kg at
28.38 mm, 27.67–
31.85 lb at 1.12 in)
Spring tilt limit:
Intake:
2.5°/1.7 mm (0.067 in)
Exhaust:
2.5°/1.6 mm (0.063 in)
Valve spring compres-
sor:
YM-4019/90890-04019
Page 132 of 230
5-29
CYLINDER AND PISTON
3. Measure:
• Ring end gap
Out of specification→Replace.
You cannot measure the end gap on
the expander spacer of the oil control
ring. If the oil control ring rails show
excessive gap, replace all three rings.
CHECKING THE PISTON PIN
1. Inspect:
• Piston pin
Blue discoloration/grooves→Re-
place, then inspect the lubrication
system.
2. Measure:
• Piston pin-to-piston clearance
Measurement steps:
a. Measure the outside diameter
(piston pin) "a".
If out of specification, replace the
piston pin.
b. Measure the inside diameter (pis-
ton) "b".c. Calculate the piston pin-to-piston
clearance with the following for-
mula.
d. If out of specification, replace the
piston.
INSTALLING THE PISTON RING
AND PISTON
1. Install:
•Piston ring
Onto the piston.
• Be sure to install the piston rings so
that the manufacturer's marks or
numbers are located on the upper
side of the rings.
• Lubricate the piston and piston
rings liberally with engine oil.
2. Position:
•Top ring
• 2nd ring
• Oil ring
Offset the piston ring end gaps as
shown.
a. Top ring end
b. 2nd ring end
c. Oil ring end (upper)
d. Oil ring
e. Oil ring end (lower)
3. Install:
•Piston "1"
• Piston pin "2"
• Piston pin clip "3"
• Apply engine oil onto the piston pin
and piston.
• Be sure that the arrow mark "a" on
the piston points to the exhaust side
of the engine.
• Before installing the piston pin clip,
cover the crankcase with a clean
rag to prevent the piston pin clip
from falling into the crankcase.
• Install the piston pin clips with their
ends facing downward.
INSTALLING THE CYLINDER
1. Install:
• Dowel pins
• Cylinder gasket "1"
• Cylinder "2"
Install the cylinder with one hand
while compressing the piston rings
with the other hand.
• Pass the timing chain "3"
through the timing chain cavity.
• Be careful not to damage the tim-
ing chain guide "4" during instal-
lation.
2. Install:
• Bolt (cylinder) End gap:
Standard
Top
ring0.20–0.30
mm (0.008–
0.012 in)0.55 mm
(0.022 in)
2nd
ring0.35–0.50
mm (0.014–
0.020 in)0.85 mm
(0.033 in)
Oil
ring0.20–0.50
mm (0.01–
0.02 in)—
Outside diameter (piston
pin):
17.991–18.000 mm
(0.7083–0.7087 in)
Inside diameter (piston):
18.004–18.015 mm
(0.7088–0.7093 in)
Piston pin-to-piston clearance =
Inside diameter (piston) "b" -
Outside diameter (piston pin)
"a"
Piston pin-to-piston
clearance:
0.004–0.024 mm
(0.00016–0.00094 in)
in)
Bolt (cylinder):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
New
Page 133 of 230
5-30
CLUTCH
CLUTCH
REMOVING THE CLUTCH
Order Part name Q'ty Remarks
Drain the engine oil. Refer to "CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL"
section in the CHAPTER 3.
Brake pedal Refer to "ENGINE REMOVAL" section.
Clutch cable Disconnect at engine side.
1 Clutch cover 1
2 Gasket 1
3 Dowel pin 2
4 Clutch spring 6
5 Pressure plate 1
6 Push rod 1 1
7 Circlip 1
8 Washer 1
9 Bearing 1
10 Ball 1
11 Push rod 2 1
12 Clutch plate 7
13 Friction plate 8
Page 135 of 230
5-32
CLUTCH
REMOVING THE CLUTCH BOSS
1. Remove:
•Nut "1"
• Lock washer "2"
• Clutch boss "3"
Straighten the lock washer tab and
use the clutch holding tool "4" to hold
the clutch boss.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
CHECKING THE CLUTCH
HOUSING AND BOSS
1. Inspect:
• Clutch housing "1"
Cracks/wear/damage→Replace.
• Clutch boss "2"
Scoring/wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVEN
GEAR
1. Check:
• Circumferential play
Free play exists→Replace.
• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CLUTCH
SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Clutch spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace
springs as a set.
CHECKING THE FRICTION
PLATES
1. Measure:
• Friction plate thickness
Out of specification→Replace
friction plate as a set.
Measure at all four points.
CHECKING THE CLUTCH PLATES
1. Measure:
• Clutch plate warpage
Out of specification→Replace
clutch plate as a set.
Use a surface plate "1" and thick-
ness gauge "2".CHECKING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Push lever shaft "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE PUSH ROD
1. Inspect:
• Push rod 1 "1"
• Bearing "2"
• Washer "3"
• Push rod 2 "4"
•Ball "5"
Wear/damage/bend→Replace.
INSTALLING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Install:
• Push lever shaft "1"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
• Apply the engine oil on the push le-
ver shaft.
INSTALLING THE CLUTCH
1. Install:
• Primary driven gear "1"
• Thrust washer "2"
• Clutch boss "3"
Apply the engine oil on the primary
driven gear inner circumference.
Clutch holding tool:
YM-91042/90890-04086
Clutch spring free
length:
50.0 mm (1.97 in)
in)
Friction plate thickness:
2.92–3.08 mm (0.115–
0.121 in)
in)
Warp limit:
0.1 mm (0.004 in)
Page 136 of 230
5-33
CLUTCH
2. Install:
• Lock washer "1"
• Nut (clutch boss) "2"
Make sure to tighten to specifica-
tion; otherwise, it may damage the
other part that is fastened togeth-
er.
• Install the lock washer with its con-
caves fitted over the convexes of
the clutch boss.
• Use the clutch holding tool "3" to
hold the clutch boss.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
3. Bend the lock washer "1" tab.
4. Install:
• Friction plate "1"
• Clutch plate 1 [t=2.0 mm (0.079
in)] "2"• Clutch plate 2 [t=1.6 mm (0.063
in)] "3"
• Install the clutch plates and friction
plates alternately on the clutch
boss, starting with a friction plate
and ending with a friction plate.
• Apply the engine oil on the friction
plates and clutch plates.
• Check the clutch plate for thickness
and install 4 thicker ones "a" on the
engine side and 3 thinner ones "b"
on the outside.
5. Install:
•Bearing "1"
• Washer "2"
• Circlip "3"
To push rod 1 "4".
Apply the engine oil on the bearing
and washer.
6. Install:
• Push rod 2 "1"
• Ball "2"
• Push rod 1 "3"
Apply the engine oil on the push rod
1, 2 and ball.
7. Install:
• Pressure plate "1"
8. Install:
• Clutch spring
• Bolt (clutch spring)
Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
9. Install:
• Gasket (clutch cover) "1"
• Dowel pin "2"
10. Install:
• Clutch cover "1"
• Bolt (clutch cover)
Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
Nut (clutch boss):
75 Nm (7.5 m•kg, 54
ft•lb)
Clutch holding tool:
YM-91042/90890-04086
Bolt (clutch spring):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (clutch cover):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)