clock YAMAHA YZ125LC 2013 Owners Manual

3-6
ENGINE
ENGINE
CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low →Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-
gine.2. Remove:
• Coolant drain bolt "1"
3. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
4. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
5. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
6. Fill:
• Radiator
•Engine
To specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Handling notes of coolant:
The coolant is harmful so it should be
handled with special care.
• When coolant splashes to your
eye.
Thoroughly wash your eye with
water and see your doctor.
• When coolant splashes to your
clothes.
Quickly wash it away with water
and then with soap.
• When coolant is swallowed.
Quickly make him vomit and take
him to a doctor.
7. Install:
• Radiator cap
Start the engine and warm it up
for a several minutes.
8. Check:
• Coolant level
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
1. Inspect:
• Seal (radiator cap) "1"
• Valve and valve seat "2"
Crack/damage →Replace.
Exist fur deposits "3" →Clean or
replace.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
OPENING PRESSURE
1. Attach:
• Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-
er "2"
Apply water on the radiator cap seal.
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
0.9 L (0.79 Imp qt, 0.95
US qt)
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-01/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter:
YU-33984/90890-01352

3-13
CHASSIS
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff → Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification → Adjust.

Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine as well as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage →
Repair or replace.

Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack "a":
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

3-19
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
1. Remove:
• Spark plug
2. Inspect:
• Electrode "1"
Wear/damage → Replace.
• Insulator color "2"
Normal condition is a medium to
light tan color.
Distinctly different color → Check
the engine condition.
When the engine runs for many hours
at low speeds, the spark plug insula-
tor will become sooty, even if the en-
gine and carburetor are in good
operating condition.
3. Measure:
• Plug gap "a"
Use a wire gauge or thickness
gauge.
Out of specification → Regap.

4. Clean the plug with a spark plug
cleaner if necessary.
5. Tighten:
• Spark plug
• Before installing a spark plug, clean
the gasket surface and plug sur-
face.
• Finger-tighten "a" the spark plug
before torquing to specification "b".
CHECKING THE IGNITION TIMING
1. Remove:
•Fuel tank
Refer to "SEAT, FUEL TANK
AND SIDE COVERS" section in
the CHAPTER 4.
• Spark plug
• Crankcase cover (left)
2. Attach:
• Dial gauge "1"
• Spark plug hole dial stand "2"
3. Rotate the magneto rotor "1" until
the piston reaches top dead cen-
ter (TDC). When this happens,
the needle on the dial gauge will
stop and reverse directions even
though the rotor is being turned in
the same direction.
4. Set the dial gauge to zero at TDC.
5. From TDC, rotate the rotor clock-
wise until the dial gauge indicates
that the piston is at a specified
distance from TDC.
6. Check:
• Ignition timing
Punch mark "a" on rotor should be
aligned with punch mark "b" on
stator.
Not aligned → Adjust.
7. Adjust:
• Ignition timing
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the screws (stator) "1".
b. Align the punch mark on the rotor
with punch mark on the stator "2"
by moving the stator.
c. Tighten the screws (stator).
Spark plug gap "a":
0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–
0.028 in)
Standard spark plug:
BR9EVX/NGK (resistance type)
Spark plug:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Dial gauge:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Spark plug hole dial
stand:
YU-1256
Ignition timing (B.T.D.C.):
0.48 mm (0.019 in)
Screw (stator):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

4-6
RADIATOR
HANDLING NOTE
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine and radiator are
hot. Scalding hot fluid and steam
may be blown out under pressure,
which could cause serious injury.
When the engine has cooled, open
the radiator cap by the following
procedure:
Place a thick rag, like a towel, over
the radiator cap, slowly rotate the
cap counterclockwise to the de-
tent. This procedure allows any re-
sidual pressure to escape. When
the hissing sound has stopped,
press down on the cap while turn-
ing counterclockwise and remove
it.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR
1. Inspect:
• Radiator core "1"
Obstruction → Blow out with com-
pressed air through rear of the ra-
diator.
Bent fin → Repair/replace.
INSTALLING THE RADIATOR
1. Install:
• Radiator breather hose "1"
• Radiator hose 3 "2"
• Radiator hose 1 "3"
To right radiator "4".
Clamp the radiator hose in the direc-
tion as shown.
2. Install:
• Right radiator "1"
• Washer "2"
• Bolt (right radiator) "3"
• Radiator hose 4 "4"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
3. Install:
• Left radiator "1"
• Washer "2"
• Bolt (left radiator) "3"
• Radiator hose 2 "4"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
4. Tighten:
• Radiator hose clamp 1, 3 "5"
5. Install:
• Radiator guard "1"
• Bolt (radiator guard) "2"
Fit the hook "a" on the inner side first
into the radiator.
Radiator hose 3:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 1:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (right radiator):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 4:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (left radiator):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 2:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose clamp 1, 3:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (radiator guard):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-25
KICK SHAFT AND SHIFT SHAFT
REMOVING THE PRIMARY DRIVE
GEAR
1. Loosen:
• Bolt (primary drive gear) "1"
Place an aluminum plate "a" between
the teeth of the primary drive gear "2"
and driven gear "3".
REMOVING THE KICK SHAFT
ASSEMBLY
1. Remove:
• Kick shaft assembly "1"
Unhook the torsion spring "2" from
the hole "a" in the crankcase.
REMOVING THE SHIFT GUIDE
AND SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
1. Remove:
• Bolt (shift guide)
• Shift guide "1"
• Shift lever assembly "2"
The shift lever assembly is disassem-
bled at the same time as the shift
guide.
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
CHECKING THE KICK SHAFT AND
KICK GEAR
1. Check:
• Kick gear smooth movement
Unsmooth movement → R e p l a c e .
2. Inspect:
• Kick shaft "1"
Wear/damage → Replace.
CHECKING THE KICK GEAR AND
KICK IDLE GEAR
1. Inspect:
• Kick gear "1"
• Kick idle gear "2"
• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage → Replace.
CHECKING THE KICK GEAR CLIP
1. Measure:
• Kick clip friction force
Out of specification → R e p l a c e .
Use a spring gauge "1".CHECKING THE SHIFT SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Shift shaft "1"
Bend/damage → Replace.
• Spring "2"
Broken → Replace.
CHECKING THE SHIFT GUIDE AND
SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
1. Inspect:
• Shift guide "1"
• Shift lever "2"
•Pawl "3"
• Pawl pin "4"
• Spring "5"
Wear/damage → Replace.
CHECKING THE STOPPER LEVER
1. Inspect:
• Stopper lever "1"
Wear/damage → Replace.
•Roller "2"
Rotate outer race with a finger.
Rough spot/Seizure → Replace
the stopper lever.
• Torsion spring "3"
Broken → Replace.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVE
GEAR AND PRIMARY DRIVEN
GEAR
1. Inspect:
• Primary drive gear "1"
• Primary driven gear "2"
Wear/Damage → Replace.

Kick clip friction force:
0.8–1.2 kg (1.8–2.6 lb)

4-27
KICK SHAFT AND SHIFT SHAFT
3. Install:
• Kick shaft assembly "1"
• Apply the transmission oil on the
kick shaft.
• Slide the kick shaft assembly into
the crankcase, make sure the clip
"2" and kick shaft stopper "a" fit into
their home position "b", "c".
4. Hook:
• Torsion spring "1"
Turn the torsion spring clockwise and
hook into the proper hole "a" in the
crankcase.
INSTALLING THE KICK IDLE
GEAR
1. Install:
• Kick idle gear "1"
• Washer "2"
• Circlip "3"
Apply the transmission oil on the kick
idle gear inner circumference.
INSTALLING THE PRIMARY DRIVE
GEAR
1. Install:
• Spacer "1"
• Primary drive gear "2"
•Bolt "3"
Install the primary drive gear with its
depressed side toward you.
2. Install:
• Primary driven gear
Refer to "CLUTCH" section.
3. Tighten:
• Bolt (primary drive gear) "1"
Place an aluminum plate "a" between
the teeth of the primary drive gear
and driven gear.
4. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• Gasket [crankcase cover (right)]
"2"
5. Install:
• Crankcase cover (right) "1"
Mesh the governor gear "2", and im-
peller shaft gear "3" with primary
drive gear "4".
6. Install:
• Bolt [crankcase cover (right)] "1"
Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
7. Install:
• Kick starter "1"
• Plain washer "2"
• Bolt (kick starter) "3"
Install the kick starter closest to but
not contacting the pillar tube "4".
8. Install:
• Shift pedal "1"
• Bolt (shift pedal) "2"
Align the upper line "a" of the shift
pedal with the center "b" of the crank-
case projection and rotate the shift
pedal counterclockwise until it first
engages. Then install the shift pedal.
Bolt (primary drive gear):
48 Nm (4.8 m•kg, 35
ft•lb)
Bolt [crankcase cover
(right)] :
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (kick starter) :
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (shift pedal) :
12 Nm (1.2 m•kg, 8.7
ft•lb)

4-34
CDI MAGNETO
REMOVING THE ROTOR
1. Remove:
• Nut (rotor) "1"
• Washer "2"
Use the rotor holding tool "3".
2. Remove:
• Rotor "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
When installing the flywheel puller,
turn it counterclockwise.
CHECKING THE CDI MAGNETO
1. Inspect:
• Rotor inner surface "a"
• Stator outer surface "b"
Damage → Inspect the crank-
shaft runout and crankshaft bear-
ing.
If necessary, replace CDI magne-
to and/or stator.
CHECKING THE WOODRUFF KEY
1. Inspect:
• Woodruff key "1"
Damage → Replace. INSTALLING THE CDI MAGNETO
1. Install:
• Stator "1"
• Screw (stator) "2"
Temporarily tighten the screws (sta-
tor) at this point.
2. Install:
• Woodruff key "1"
• Rotor "2"
• Clean the tapered portions of the
crankshaft and rotor.
• When installing the woodruff key,
make sure that its flat surface "a" is
in parallel with the crankshaft center
line "b".
• When installing the rotor, align the
keyway "c" of the rotor with the
woodruff key.
3. Install:
• Washer "1"
• Nut (rotor) "2"
Use the rotor holding tool "3".4. Adjust:
• Ignition timing
Refer to "CHECKING THE IGNI-
TION TIMING" section in the
CHAPTER 3.
5. Tighten:
• Screw (stator) "1"
6. Check:
• Ignition timing
Re-check the ignition timing.
7. Connect:
• CDI magneto lead "1"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
8. Install:
• Gasket (left crankcase cover)

• Left crankcase cover "1"
• Screw (left crankcase cover) "2"
Tighten the screws in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
Rotor holding tool:
YU-1235/90890-01235
Flywheel puller:
YM-1189/90890-01189
Nut (rotor):
56 Nm (5.6 m•kg, 40
ft•lb)
Rotor holding tool:
YU-1235/90890-01235
Ignition timing (B.T.D.C):
0.48 mm (0.019 in)
Screw (stator):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Screw [crankcase cover
(left)]:
5 Nm (0.5 m•kg, 3.6
ft•lb)

4-41
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Remove:
• Crankcase (right) "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
• Make appropriate bolts "3" as
shown available by yourself and at-
tach the tool with them.
• Fully tighten the tool holding bolts,
but make sure the tool body is par-
allel with the case. If necessary,
one screw may be backed out
slightly to level tool body.
• As pressure is applied, alternately
tap on the engine mounting boss
and transmission shafts.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If one
end "hangs up", take pressure off
the push screw, realign, and start
over. If the cases do not separate,
check for a remaining case bolt or
fitting. Do not force.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Make appropriate bolts "3" as shown
available by yourself and attach the
tool with them.
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner race
as shown in "A".
• If the bearing is removed together
with the crankshaft, remove the
bearing using a general bearing
puller "2" as shown in "B".
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches → Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage → Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure → R e p l a c e .
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Damage →Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification → R e p l a c e .
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge. Flywheel puller:
YU-33270-B/90890-
01362
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252

4-43
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease
to the surface "a" where the crank-
shaft and bearing come in contact.
• Use two plain washers (Yamaha
genuine: 90201-243K3) "5" or the
ones of a size as shown one on the
other. (Except for USA and CDN)
• Install so that the plain washers do
not deviate from the crankshaft cen-
ter. (Except for USA and CDN)
• When installing the crankcase, the
connecting rod should be posi-
tioned at TDC (top dead center).
• Install while checking that the dowel
pin is in place.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
6. Install:
• Clamp "1"
• Bolt (crankcase) "2"
Tighten the crankcase tightening
bolts in stage, using a crisscross pat-
tern.
7. Install:
• Holder "1"
• Bolt (holder) "2"
8. Install:
• Segment "1"
• Bolt (segment) "2"
• When installing the segment onto
the shift cam "3", align the punch
mark "a" with the dowel pin "b".
• Turn the segment clockwise until it
stops and tighten the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when tightening the bolt.
9. Remove:
• Sealant
Forced out on the cylinder mating
surface.
10. Apply:
• Engine oil
To the crank pin, bearing, oil de-
livery hole and connecting rod big
end washer.11. Check:
• Crankshaft and transmission op-
eration.
Unsmooth operation → R e p a i r .
If the crankshaft will not turn smooth-
ly, make an adjustment by gently tap-
ping its right end with a soft hammer.
Bolt (crankcase):
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
Bolt (holder):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (segment):
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)

6-4
IGNITION SYSTEM
SPARK GAP TEST
1. Disconnect the spark plug cap
from spark plug.
2. Connect the dynamic spark tester
"1" (ignition checker "2") as
shown.
• Ignition coil "3"
• Spark plug "4"
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
3. Kick the kickstarter crank.
4. Check the ignition spark gap.
5. Start engine, and increase spark
gap until misfire occurs. (for USA
and CDN only)
CHECKING THE COUPLERS,
LEADS AND IGNITION COIL
CONNECTION
1. Check:
• Couplers and leads connection
Rust/dust/looseness/short-cir-
cuit → Repair or replace. CHECKING THE ENGINE STOP
SWITCH
1. Inspect:
• Engine stop switch conduction
Not conductive while it is pushed →
Replace.
Conductive while it is freed → Re-
place.
Set the tester selection position to "
Ω × 1".
CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL
1. Inspect:
• Primary coil resistance
Out of specification → R e p l a c e .
2. Inspect:
• Secondary coil resistance
Out of specification → R e p l a c e .
• Remove the spark plug cap by turn-
ing it counterclockwise and inspect.
• Install the spark plug cap by turning
it clockwise until it is tight.
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
CAP
1. Inspect:
• Spark plug cap
Loose connection → T i g h t e n .
Deteriorated/damaged → Re-
place.
• Spark plug cap resistance
Out of specification → R e p l a c e . Minimum spark gap:
6.0 mm (0.24 in)
Tester (+) lead→Black/White lead
"1"
Tester (-) lead→Black lead "2"
Result
Conductive (while the
engine stop switch is
pushed)
Tester (+) lead→Yellow lead "1"
Tester (-) lead→Black lead "2"
Primary
coil resis-
tanceTester se-
lector posi-
tion
0.24–0.36
Ω at 20 °C
(68 °F) Ω × 1
Tester (+) lead→Spark plug lead
"1"
Tester (-) lead→Yellow lead "2"
Secondary
coil resis-
tanceTester se-
lector posi-
tion
5.7–8.5
kΩat 20 °C
(68 °F) kΩ × 1
Tester (+) lead→Spark plug lead
terminal "1"
Tester (-) lead→Spark plug termi-
nal "2"
Spark plug
cap resis-
tanceTester se-
lector posi-
tion
4–6 kΩ at
20 °C (68
°F) kΩ × 1