light YAMAHA YZ450F 2009 Owner's Manual

4-60
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT CAM AND SHIFT FORK
REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Remove:
• Main axle "1"
•Drive axle "2"
•Shift cam
• Shift fork 3
• Shift fork 2
• Shift fork 1
• Remove assembly with the collar
"3" installed to the crankcase.
• Remove assembly carefully. Note
the position of each part. Pay partic-
ular attention to the location and di-
rection of shift forks.
• Remove the main axle, drive axle,
shift cam and shift fork all together
by tapping lightly on the transmis-
sion drive axle with a soft hammer.
CHECKING THE GEARS
1. Inspect:
• Matching dog "a"
• Gear teeth "b"
• Shift fork groove "c"
Wear/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Gears movement
Unsmooth movement→Repair or
replace.
CHECKING THE BEARING
1. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.CHECKING THE SHIFT FORK,
SHIFT CAM AND SEGMENT
1. Inspect:
• Shift fork "1"
Wear/damage/scratches→Re-
place.
2. Inspect:
• Shift cam "1"
• Segment "2"
Wear/damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Shift fork movement
Unsmooth operation→Replace
shift fork.
For a malfunctioning shift fork, re-
place not only the shift fork itself but
the two gears each adjacent to the
shift fork.
INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Install:
• 5th pinion gear (21T) "1"
• 3rd pinion gear (18T) "2"
•Collar "3"
• 4th pinion gear (22T) "4"
• 2nd pinion gear (15T) "5"
To main axle "6".
Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface of
the sliding gear, then install.
2. Install:
•Collar "1"
• 2nd wheel gear (23T) "2"
• 4th wheel gear (24T) "3"
• 3rd wheel gear (23T) "4"
• 5th wheel gear (20T) "5"
•Collar "6"
• 1st wheel gear (27T) "7"
• O-ring "8"
To drive axle "9".
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface
of the sliding gear, then install.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
3. Install:
• Washer "1"
• Circlip "2"

5-13
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
2. Install:
• Brake lever "1"
• Bolt (brake lever) "2"
• Nut (brake lever) "3"
Apply the silicone grease on the
brake lever sliding surface, bolt and
tip of the push rod.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
MASTER CYLINDER
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
•Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake master cylinder.
2. Install:
• Brake master cylinder "1"
• Bolt (brake master cylinder) "2"
3. Install:
• Spring "1"
• Brake pedal "2"
• O-ring "3"
• Bolt (brake pedal) "4"
•Clip "5"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bolt, O-ring and brake pedal
bracket.
4. Install:
•Pin "1"
•Washer "2"
• Cotter pin "3"
After installing, check the brake pedal
height. Refer to "ADJUSTING THE
REAR BRAKE" section in the CHAP-
TER 3.
INSTALLING THE FRONT BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Bolt (brake hose holder) "2"
Align the top "a" of the brake hose
holder with the paint "b" of the brake
hose.
3. Pass the brake hose through the
cable guide "1". Bolt (brake lever):
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Nut (brake lever):
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake master cylin-
der):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake pedal):
26 Nm (2.6 m•kg, 19
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake hose holder):
8 Nm (0.8 m•kg, 5.8 ft
•lb)

5-14
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
4. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
•Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake master cylinder.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
•Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Screw (brake hose holder) "2"
After installing the brake hose
holders, make sure the brake hose
does not contact the spring (rear
shock absorber). If it does, correct
its twist.
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
•Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section in
the CHAPTER 3.
4. Install:
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Diaphragm
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Screw (brake master cylinder
cap) "2"
After installation, while pulling the
brake lever in or pushing down on
the brake pedal, check whether
there is any brake fluid leaking
where the union bolts are installed
respectively at the brake master
cylinder and brake caliper.
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Screw (brake hose hold-
er):
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Screw (bolt) {brake mas-
ter cylinder cap}:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)

7-1
ENGINE
TUNING
ENGINE
CARBURETOR SETTING
• The air/fuel mixture will vary de-
pending on atmospheric conditions.
Therefore, it is necessary to take
into consideration the air pressure,
ambient temperature, humidity,
etc., when adjusting the carburetor.
• Perform a test run to check for prop-
er engine performance (e.g., throt-
tle response) and spark plug(-s)
discoloration or fouling. Use these
readings to determine the best pos-
sible carburetor setting.
It is recommended to keep a record of
all carburetor settings and external
conditions (e.g., atmospheric condi-
tions, track/surface conditions, lap
times) to make future carburetor set-
ting easier.
• The carburetor is a part of the
fuel line. Therefore, be sure to in-
stall it in a wellventilated area,
away from flammable objects
and any sources of fire.
• Never look into the carburetor in-
take. Flames may shoot out from
the pipe if the engine backfires
while it is being started. Gasoline
may be discharged from the ac-
celerator pump nozzle when the
carburetor has been removed.
• The carburetor is extremely sen-
sitive to foreign matter (dirt,
sand, water, etc.). During instal-
lation, do not allow foreign mat-
ter to get into the carburetor.
• Always handle the carburetor
and its components carefully.
Even slight scratches, bends or
damage to carburetor parts may
prevent the carburetor from
functioning correctly. Carefully
perform all servicing with the ap-
propriate tools and without ap-
plying excessive force.
• When the engine is stopped or
when riding at no load, do not
open and close the throttle un-
necessarily. Otherwise, too
much fuel may be discharged,
starting may become difficult or
the engine may not run well.• After installing the carburetor,
check that the throttle operates
correctly and opens and closes
smoothly.
ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS AND
CARBURETOR SETTINGS
The air density (i.e., concentration of
oxygen in the air) determines the rich-
ness or leanness of the air/fuel mix-
ture.
• Higher temperature expands the air
with its resultant reduced density.
• Higher humidity reduces the
amount of oxygen in the air by so
much of the water vapor in the
same air.
• Lower atmospheric pressure (at a
high altitude) reduces the density of
the air.
EFFECT OF SETTING PARTS IN
RELATION TO THROTTLE VALVE
OPENING
A. Closed
B. Fully open
1. Pilot screw/pilot jet
2. Throttle valve cutaway
3. Jet needle
4. Main jetCONSTRUCTION OF
CARBURETOR AND SETTING
PARTS
The FLATCR carburetor has a prima-
ry main jet. This type of main jet is
perfect for racing machines since it
supplies an even flow of fuel, even at
full load. Use the main jet and the jet
needle to set the carburetor.
The FLATCR carburetor is manufac-
tured with a pilot screw. The pilot
screw adjustment ranges from fully
closed throttle to 1/4 open throttle.
1. Jet needle
2. Pilot air jet
3. Needle jet
4. Main jet
5. Pilot jet
6. Pilot screw
ADJUSTING THE MAIN JET
The richness of the air-fuel mixture at
full throttle can be set by changing the
main jet "1".
If the air-fuel mixture is too rich or too
lean, the engine power will drop, re-
sulting in poor acceleration.
Effects of changing the main jet
(reference)
A. Idle
B. Fully open
1. #162
2. #158
3. #160 Air
tem
p.Hu-
midi-
tyAir
pres-
sure
(alti-
tude)Mix-
tureSet-
ting
High HighLow
(high)Rich-
erLean-
er
Low LowHigh
(low)Lean-
erRich-
er
Standard main jet #160
7