AUDI A4 2008 B8 / 4.G Owners Manual

Self-help289
Controls
Safety
Driving tips
General maintenance
Self-help
Technical data
–Loosen the wheel bolts ⇒page 289.
–Raise the car with the jack* ⇒page 290.
–Ta k e o f f the wheel with the flat tyre and then put on the
spare wheel* ⇒page 291.
–Lower the vehicle to the ground.
– Tighten the wheel bolts firmly i n d i a g o n a l s e qu e n c e w i t h
the box spanner ⇒page 289.
–Fit the hub cap back on.After changing a wheel
What you must do after changing a wheel.– Place the wheel with the defective tyre in the spare wheel
well and secure it.
– Put the tools and the jack* back in the luggage compart-
ment.
–The inflation pressure of the newly fitted spare tyre must
be checked as soon as possible.
–Have the tightening torque of the wheel bolts checked as
soon as possible with a torque wrench. The correct tight-
ening torque is 120 Nm.
– Have the flat tyre replaced as quickly as possible.
Note•
If you notice that the wheel bolts are corroded and difficult to
turn when changing a wheel, they must be replaced before having
the tightening torque checked.
•
In the interest of safety, drive at moderate speeds until the tight-
ening torque of the wheel bolts has been checked.
Hub caps
The hub caps must be removed for access to the wheel
bolts.Removing
– Insert the hook (provided in the vehicle's tool kit) in the
hole in the hub cap.
–Pull off the hub cap ⇒fig. 271.Loosening and tightening the wheel bolts
The wheel bolts must be loosened before raising the
vehicle.
Fig. 271 Changing a
wheel: Removing a hub
capFig. 272 Changing a
wheel: Loosening
wheel bolts
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Self-help 290
Loosening
–Fit the box spanner as far as it will go over the wheel
bolt
5).
– Grip the box spanner as close to the end as possible and
turn the wheel bolts about one turn anti-clockwise
⇒page 289, fig. 272 -arrow-.
Tightening
– Fit the box spanner as far as it will go over the wheel
bolt5).
– Grip the box spanner as close to the end as possible and
tighten the bolt firmly by turning clockwise.
WARNING
To avoid accidents, the wheel bolts should only be loosened
slightly (about one turn) before raising the vehicle with the jack*.
Note
•
Do not use the hexagonal socket in the screwdriver handle to
loosen or tighten the wheel bolts.
•
If the wheel bolt is very tight, it may be possible to loosen it by
pushing down the end of the spanner carefully with your foot. Hold
on to the car for support and take care not to slip.
Raising the vehicle
The vehicle must be raised with the jack* to remove the
wheel.Each jacking point is marked by a recess underneath the
vehicle ⇒fig. 273.
– Place the jack ⇒page 283 underneath the jacking point
closest to the wheel being changed. Make sure the base
plate is flat on the ground.
– Wind up the jack by the knob until the claw of the jack
completely surrounds the seam on your vehicle
⇒fig. 274.
5)An adapter is required to unscrew or tighten the anti-theft wheel bolts*
⇒page 292.
Fig. 273 Changing a
wheel: Jacking pointsFig. 274 Changing a
wheel: Jack
AA
AB
AC
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Self-help291
Controls
Safety
Driving tips
General maintenance
Self-help
Technical data
– Now fit the crank handle onto the jack by inserting it
in the opening on the knob ⇒page 290, fig. 274. Turn the
crank handle clockwise or anti-clockwise to secure it in
place.
– Raise the vehicle by winding the crank handle until the
defective wheel is clear of the ground.Recesses at the front and rear of the door sills mark the jacking
points ⇒page 290, fig. 273. There is one jacking point for each
wheel. The distance from the jacking points to the wheel arches is
approximately 20 cm at the front and 40 cm at the rear. The jack may
only be applied at the seam of the jacking points shown.
An unstable surface under the jack may cause the vehicle to slip off
the jack. Always provide a firm base for the jack on the ground. If
necessary use a large, strong board or similar support. On a hard,
slippery surface (such as tiles) use a rubber mat or similar to prevent
the jack from slipping.
WARNING
•
Prevent the base of the jack from slipping – risk of injury.
•
The car can be damaged if the jack is not applied at the correct
jacking points. There is also a risk of injury since the jack can slip
off suddenly if it is not properly engaged.
Taking off the wheel and putting on the spare wheel
Step-by-step instructions for taking off the wheel and
putting on the spare wheel.Change the wheel as described below after loosening the
wheel bolts and raising the vehicle with the jack*.
Taking off the wheel
–Using the hexagonal socket in the screwdriver handle
(provided in the vehicle's tool kit) ⇒fig. 275, unscrew the
wheel bolt nearest to the top and place the bolt on a
clean surface.
AD
Fig. 275 Changing a
wheel: Hexagonal
socket in screwdriver
handle to turn the
wheel bolts after they
have been loosenedFig. 276 Changing a
wheel: Mounting pin in
wheel bolt hole nearest
to the top
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Self-help 292
– Screw in the mounting pin (provided in the vehicle's tool
kit) by hand in place of the wheel bolt ⇒page 291,
fig. 276.
– Then unscrew the other wheel bolts as described above.
– Take off the wheel. The mounting pin stays where it is.
Putting on the spare wheel
– Put on the spare wheel, using the mounting pin to guide
it into place.
– Screw in the wheel bolts and tighten them lightly using
the hexagonal opening in the screwdriver handle.
– Then unscrew the mounting pin and tighten the
remaining wheel bolt lightly.
– Carry out the steps required after you have changed the
wheel ⇒page 289, “After changing a wheel”.The wheel bolts should be clean and turn easily. Before putting on
the spare wheel, inspect the condition of the wheel and hub
mounting surfaces. These surfaces must be clean before mounting
the wheel.
The wheel bolts are easier to remove from the wheel rim if you use
the hexagonal socket in the screwdriver handle. The reversible
screwdriver blade should be removed as a precautionary measure
when the tool is used for this purpose.
Note the direction of rotation when putting on a tyre with direc-
tional tread pattern ⇒page 292.
Note
Do not use the hexagonal socket in the screwdriver handle to loosen
or tighten the wheel bolts.
Tyres with directional tread pattern
Tyres with directional tread pattern must be mounted so
that they rotate in the correct direction.A directional tread pattern is identified by arrows on the sidewall
pointing in the forward running direction. Always note the direction
of rotation indicated when mounting the wheel. This is important so
that these tyres can give maximum grip and avoid excessive noise,
tread wear and aquaplaning.
Drive carefully should you ever have a puncture and have to mount
the spare wheel so it rotates in the wrong direction. This is because
the tyre will not give optimum performance. Bear this in mind
particularly when driving on wet roads.
To benefit from the advantages of tyres with this type of tread
pattern, the defective tyre should be replaced and refitted as soon
as possible so that all tyres again rotate in the correct direction.Applies to vehicles: with anti-theft wheel boltsAnti-theft wheel bolts
A special adapter is required to turn the anti-theft wheel
bolts.
Fig. 277 Anti-theft
wheel bolt with
adapter
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Self-help293
Controls
Safety
Driving tips
General maintenance
Self-help
Technical data
– Insert the hook (provided in the vehicle's tool kit) in the
hole in the hub cap.
–Pull off the hub cap ⇒page 289, fig. 271.
– Insert the adapter completely into the wheel bolt .
– F i t t h e b o x s p a n n e r as f a r as i t w i l l g o o v e r t h e a d a p t e r .
– Loosen or tighten the wheel bolt ⇒page 289.It is advisable to carry the wheel bolt adapter in the vehicle. The
adapter is normally stored in the vehicle tool kit, underneath the
towline anchorage. It should be put back there after use.
The code number of the anti-theft wheel bolt is stamped on the front
o f t h e a d a p t e r. Yo u r A u d i d e a l e r w i l l n e e d t h i s n u m b e r t o r e p l a c e t h e
adapter if lost.
Note
Note the code number of the anti-theft wheel bolt and keep it in a
safe place – not in your vehicle.Jump-startingBefore starting the engine
If necessary, the engine can be started by connecting it to
the battery of another vehicle.If the engine should ever fail to start because of a discharged
battery, the battery can be connected to the battery of another
vehicle to start the engine. Suitable jump leads are required.
Both batteries must be rated at 12 Volts. The capacity (Ah) of the
booster battery should not be significantly lower than that of the
discharged battery.Jump leads
The jump leads must be heavy enough to carry the starter current.
Refer to the details given by the manufacturer.
Only use jump leads with insulated battery clamps.
Positive cable – usually red
Negative cable – usually black
WARNING
•
When it is discharged the battery can freeze at temperatures
around 0°C. A frozen battery must first be thawed out before
connecting the jump leads, as it could otherwise explode.
•
Please note the safety warnings referring to working in the
engine compartment ⇒page 255.Note
•
There must be no contact between the two vehicles as otherwise
current could flow as soon as the positive terminals are connected.
•
The discharged battery must be properly connected to the
vehicle's electrical system.
•
Switch off the car telephone if necessary. Details will be given in
the manufacturer's instructions for the car telephone.
A2
A1A2
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Self-help 294Starting the engine
The two jump leads must be connected in the correct
sequence.The jump-start terminals are located in the engine compart-
ment ⇒fig. 278.
Connecting the positive terminals with the
positive lead (red)
– Open the red cap on the positive terminal ⇒fig. 278.
1. Connect one end of the lead to the jump-start terminal
⇒fig. 279 (terminal under red cap = “positive”) of the
vehicle with the flat battery .2. Connect the other end of the positive lead to the positive
terminal of the boosting battery .
Connecting negative terminals with the
negative lead (black)
3. Connect one end of the negative lead to the negative
terminal of the boosting battery .
4. Connect the other end of the lead to the jump-start
terminal (terminal with hexagon = “negative”) of the
vehicle with the flat battery .
Starting the engine
– Start the engine of the vehicle with the boosting battery
and let it run at idling speed.
– Now start the engine of the vehicle with the discharged
battery .
– If the engine fails to start: do not operate the starter for
longer than 10 seconds. Wait for about 30 seconds and
try again.
– When the engine is running, disconnect the leads in
exactly the opposite sequence to that described above.
– Refit the red cap onto the positive terminal.
The battery is vented to the outside to prevent gases entering the
vehicle's interior.
Connect the battery clamps so they have good metal-to-metal
contact with the respective terminals.
WARNING
•
The non-insulated parts of the battery clamps must not be
allowed to touch. The jump lead attached to the positive battery
Fig. 278 Engine
compartment: Termi-
nals for jump leads and
battery chargerFig. 279 Jump-
starting with the
battery of another
vehicle: A – Discharged
battery, B – Boosting
battery
A1
AA
A2
AB
A3
AB
A4
AA
AB
AA
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Controls
Safety
Driving tips
General maintenance
Self-help
Technical data terminal must not touch metal parts of the vehicle: this can cause
short circuiting.
•
Do not bend over the batteries – risk of acid burns.
•
The screw plugs on the battery cells must be screwed in firmly.
•
Keep sparks, flame and lighted cigarettes away from batteries:
the gases given off can cause an explosion.
•
If jump-starting another vehicle, position the jump leads in
such a way that they cannot come into contact with any moving
parts in the engine compartment of the other vehicle.Caution
Please note that the above method of connecting the leads is meant
for jump-starting your vehicle. If jump-starting another vehicle, you
should not connect the negative lead (–) to the negative terminal of
the discharged battery, but directly to the engine block or a solid
metal part bolted to the engine block. If the battery of the other
vehicle does not have a gas vent, there is a risk that a mixture of
oxygen and hydrogen gas can accumulate and cause an
explosion.Tow-starting and towing awayGeneral notes
Points to observe when tow-starting or towing awayIf you use a towrope:
Notes for the driver of the towing vehicle
– The towrope must be taut before driving off.– Engage the clutch very gently when starting to move; on
vehicles with automatic gearbox press the accelerator
slowly.
Notes for the driver of the towed vehicle
– The ignition should be switched on so that the turn
signals, horn, windscreen wipers and washers can be
used. Please ensure that the steering wheel is unlocked
when you switch on the ignition, and that it moves freely.
–Put gear lever in neutral (manual gearbox) or move
selector lever to position N (automatic gearbox).
– The brake servo and power steering only work when the
engine is running. Considerably more effort is required
on the brake pedal and steering wheel when the engine
is switched off.
– Ensure that the towrope remains taut at all times when
towing.
Towrope or towbar
It is easier and safer to tow a vehicle with a towbar. You should only
use a towrope if you do not have a towbar.
A towrope should be slightly elastic to reduce the loading on both
vehicles. It is advisable to use a towrope made of synthetic fibre or
similar material.
Attach the tow-rope or tow-bar only to the towing anchorages
intended for this purpose ⇒page 296 or ⇒page 297.
Driving technique
Towing requires some experience – especially when using a
towrope. Both drivers should be familiar with the technique required
for towing. Inexperienced drivers should not attempt to tow-start or
tow away another vehicle.
WARNING (continued)
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Self-help 296Do not pull too hard with the towing vehicle and take care to avoid
jerking the towrope. When towing on a loose surface there is always
a risk of overloading and damaging the anchorage points.
Caution
If there is no oil in the gearbox or no lubricant in the automatic
transmission the car may only be towed with the driven wheels
lifted clear of the road, or transported on a special car transporter
or trailer.
Note
•
Note the regulations concerning towing.
•
The hazard warning lights of both vehicles must normally be
switched on. However, observe any regulations to the contrary.
•
Make sure that the towrope is not twisted, as otherwise the front
towline anchorage on your vehicle could work itself loose.
Front towline anchorage
The front towline anchorage is only mounted if the vehicle
has to be towed.
The screw connection for the towline anchorage is located
behind a cover cap on the right side of the front bumper.
– Take the towline anchorage out of the vehicle's tool kit
⇒page 283.
– To detach the cover cap from the bumper, firmly press
the lower part of the cap inwards to release it ⇒fig. 280.
– Screw the towline anchorage firmly all the way into the
screw connection ⇒fig. 281.After use, unscrew the towline anchorage and put it back in the
toolbox. Replace the cap in the bumper. The towline anchorage
should always be kept in the vehicle.
WARNING
If the towline anchorage is not screwed in as far as the stop, there
is a risk of the screw connection shearing off during towing (acci-
dent risk).
Fig. 280 Front
bumper: Cover cap
Fig. 281 Front
bumper: Fitting the
towing eye
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Controls
Safety
Driving tips
General maintenance
Self-help
Technical data
Rear towline anchorage
Vehicles which do not have a factory-fitted towing
bracket* have a towline anchorage on the right side of the
rear bumper.Vehicles with towline anchorage
– Take the towline anchorage out of the vehicle's tool kit.
– To detach the cover cap from the bumper, firmly press
the lower part of the cap inwards to release it ⇒fig. 282.
– Screw the towline anchorage firmly all the way into the
screw connection.
Vehicles with towing bracket*
– Fit the towing bracket.
– Attach the towbar or the towrope to the towing bracket.After use, unscrew the towline anchorage and put it back in the
toolbox. Replace the cap in the screw connection. The towline
anchorage or towing bracket should always be kept in the vehicle.
Vehicles which have a factory-fitted towing bracket* do not have a
screw connection at the rear for the towline anchorage.
WARNING
•
If the towline anchorage is not screwed in as far as the stop,
there is a risk of the screw connection shearing off during towing
(accident risk).
•
If your car has a towing bracket*, please use only special tow
bars with suitable attachments (i.e. tow bars which are specially
designed for use with towing brackets) to avoid damage to the
coupling equipment.
•
If your car has a towing bracket*, please use only special
towing ropes (risk of accident).
To w - s t a r t i n g
As a general rule, tow-starting is not recommended.– Engage 2nd or 3rd gear before moving off.
– Press the clutch and hold the pedal down.
– Switch on the ignition.
– Once both vehicles are moving, release the clutch.
– As soon as the engine starts: press the clutch and put the
gear lever in neutral.If the engine will not start, it is best to try starting it using the
battery of another vehicle ⇒page 293 before attempting to tow
start. You should only try to tow-start the engine if jump-starting is
not successful. Tow-starting is an attempt to start the engine via the
movement of the wheels.
When tow-starting a vehicle with a petrol engine, do not tow it more
than a short distance, otherwise unburnt fuel can enter the catalytic
converter and cause damage.
For technical reasons, it is not possible to tow-start a vehicle with
automatic gearbox.
Fig. 282 Rear bumper:
Fitting the towing eye
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Self-help 298
WARNING
There is a high risk of accidents when tow-starting, as the towed
vehicle can easily be driven into the towing vehicle.
Caution
When tow-starting the vehicle, do not tow it further than 50 metres:
otherwise the catalytic converter could be damaged.Towing a vehicle with manual gearbox and front-wheel drive
Towing is relatively straightforward.Please observe the notes ⇒page 295.
The vehicle can be towed using a towbar or towrope in the normal
way, with all four wheels on the road; it can also be towed with
either the front or rear wheels lifted off the road. The vehicle must
not be towed faster than 50 km/h.Towing a vehicle with automatic gearbox and front-wheel drive
Certain restrictions must be observed when towing your
vehicle.Please observe the notes ⇒page 295.
The vehicle can be towed with a towbar or towrope in the normal
way, with all four wheels on the ground. When doing so, please note
the following points:•
Release the parking brake ⇒page 121.
•
Make sure the selector lever is in the N position.
•
The vehicle must not be towed faster than 50 km/h.
•
The vehicle must not be towed further than 50 km. The reason
for this is: when the engine is not running, the gearbox oil pump
does not work and the gearbox is not adequately lubricated for
higher speeds or longer distances.
If the vehicle has to be towed with a breakdown truck, it must only
be suspended at the front wheels. The reason for this is: the drive
shafts are located on the front wheels. If the car is towed with the
rear wheels lifted off the road (i.e. travelling backwards), the drive
shafts also turn backwards. The planetary gears in the automatic
gearbox then turn at such high speeds that the gearbox will be
severely damaged in a short time.Note
If it is not possible to tow the vehicle as described above, or if it has
to be towed further than 50 km, it must be transported on a special
car transporter or trailer.Towing a vehicle with manual gearbox and four-wheel drive
Certain restrictions must be observed when towing your
vehicle.Please observe the notes ⇒page 295.
The vehicle can be towed with a towbar or towrope in the normal
way, with all four wheels on the ground. It can also be towed by a
breakdown truck, with the wheels lifted at either the front or rear.
When doing so, please note the following points:•
The vehicle must not be towed faster than 50 km/h.
•
The vehicle must not be towed further than 50 km.
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