engine BUICK CENTURY 1993 Owner's Manual

A CAUTION:
Your brake system may not be working properly
if the brake warning light is on.
Driving with the brake warning light on can
lead to an accident.
If the light is still on after
you’ve pulled
off the road and stopped
carefully, have the vehicle towed
for service.
Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light
---I
This light tells you that
your engine coolant has
overheated or your radiator
cooling
fan is not working.
If you have been operating
your vehicle under normal
driving conditions, you should pull
off the road,
stop your vehicle and
turn
the engine off as soon as
possible.
HOT COOLANT CAN
BURN YOU BADLY!
In “Problems on the Road:’ this manual shows what to
do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage (Option)
‘1 If you have the Gage
Cluster, you have a gage
that shows the engine
coolant temperature.
If the
gage pointer moves into the red area, your engine is too
hot! That reading means the same thing as the warning
light. It means that your engine coolant has
overheated. If you have
been operating your vehicle under normal driving
conditions, you should pull off the road, stop your-
vehicle and
turn off the engine as soon as possible.
Also, the temperature symbol on the gage will come on
when your engine is too hot.
HOT COOLANT CAN BURN YOU BADLY!
In “Problems on the Road:’ this manual shows what to
do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
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X"' 1 r-l
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(Service Engine Soon Light)
A computer monitors
I operation of your fuel,
ignition and. emission
control systems. This light should come on when the
ignition is on, but the
engine is not running, as a
check to show
you it is
working.
If it does not
come on at all, have it fixed
right away.
If it stays on, or
it comes on while you are
driving, the computer is
I
indicating that you have a problem. You should take your
vehicle in
for service soon.
Liftgate Ajar Warning Light (Wagon)
.-
- The "TAILGATE AJAR"
~ light on your instrument
panel
will come on if your
I
TAI! GAY E
ALAR
liftgate is not completely
1 closed.
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The air conditioner compressor operates in all AIR COND
positions, and in DEF (Defrost) when the outside
temperature is above about 40°F (4.5"
C).
Ventilation
For mild outside temperatures, when little heating or
cooling is needed, slide the upper lever to
VENT. Air
flow is through the instrument panel outlets. Rotate the
control next to the outlets to turn on, adjust or
turn off
the air flow. Adjust the lower lever on the control panel
to the temperature desired.
Heating
When outside temperatures are cold, sliding the upper
lever to
HEATER and the lower lever to HOT will send
heated air through the heater ducts, and some through the
defroster vents.
VENT and HEAmR are labeled
ECONOMY positions because the air conditioner
compressor doesn't run
in these two settings. This
reduces engine load, resulting
in improved he1 economy.
If either setting fails to keep you comfortable, or causes
your windows
to fog up, slide the upper lever to one of
the
AIR COND positions, or to DEF (Defrost).
Defrosting
The DEF setting directs most of the air through the
defroster vents, and some through the heater ducts.
Defogging Windows with Four Season
Climate Control
To quickly defog the windshield, set the upper lever to
DEF and move the hn switch to HI. Slide the lower
lever
to HOT.
In damp, cool weather (temperatures about 45"-65"F,
7"- 18" C), you can use BI-LEV to defog the side windows.
Set the upper lever to
BI-LEV and the fan switch to HI.
Aim the side vents toward the side windows. For increased
air flow to the side vents, close the center vents.
Rear Window Defogger (Option)
--
The rear window defogger
uses
a warming grid to
remove fog from the rear
window.
In winter, it can
also keep ice from forming
on the rear window.
Press the
ON portion of the
switch. The indicator light
will glow. The rear window
defogger will
turn off
automatically after about
10
minutes of use. You can
also turn
it off by turning
off the ignition or pressing the
OFF portion of the
switch.
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If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic
following distances, you
will eliminate a lot of
unnecessary braking. That means better braking and
longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you're driving, brake
normally but don't pump your brakes. If you do, the
pedal may get harder
to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will use it when
you brake. Once the power assist
is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake
pedal will be harder to push.
Disc Brake Wear Indicators
Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
I A CAUTION:
The brake wear wamlng sound means that
sooner or later pur brakes won't work well.
That could lead to an accident. When you hear
the brake wear warning sound, have your
vehlcle serviced.
I
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a
high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
worn and new pads
are needed. The sound may come squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
and
go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving applied. This do\
es not mean something is wrong with
(except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly). your brakes.
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Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops
or the system
fails to function, you can steer but it will
take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The
traction
of the tires against the road surface makes it
possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep
the vehicle going
in the same direction. If you’ve ever
tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand
this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition
of your tires and the road surhce, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re
in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through
a sharp curve. Then you
suddenly apply
the brakes. Both control systems-
steering and braking-have
to do their work where the
tires meet the road. Adding the hard braking can demand
too much at those places. You can lose control.
The
same thing can happen if you’re steering through a’
sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two
control systems-steering and acceleration-can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose ‘control.
What should you do
if this ever happens? Let up on the
brake or accelerator
pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust
your
speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on
good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable
conditions you’ll want
to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a
curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels
are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so
you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are
out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the
straightaway.
When you drive
into a curve at night, it’s harder to see
the road ahead of you because it bends away .from the
straight beams of your lights.
This is one good reason to
drive slower.
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Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it
may be
slowing down or starting to turn.
driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little
to the right.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens
when the three control systems (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires
meet the road
to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and
constantly
seek an escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids
by taking reasonable
care suited
to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your Buick‘s three
control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t
rolling.
In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed
or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And
in the acceleration skid too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
I
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot
off the accelerator pedal. If
your vehicle starts to slide (as when you turn a corner on
a wet, snow- or ice-covered road), ease your
foot off the
accelerator pedal as soon as you feel the vehicle start to
slide. Quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you
start steering quickly enough, your vehicle will
straighten out. As it does, straighten the front wheels.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road.
For safety, you’ll
want to slow down and adjust your driving
to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surfhce
with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking (including engine braking
by shifting to a lower
gear).
Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues-
such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road
to
make a “mirrored surface”-and slow down when you
have
any doubt.
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Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out.
Of course, you’ll
find experienced and able service experts in Buick
dealerships
all across North America. They’ll be ready
and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before
a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
hel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all
Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free
trip.
Is the tread good enough for long-distance
driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended
pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along
your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to
avoid a major storm system?
levels?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
On the Road
Unless you
are the only driver, it is good to share the
driving task with others. Limit
turns behind the wheel to
about
100 miles (160 km) or two hours at a sitting. Then,
either change drivers or stop for some refreshment like
coffee, tea or
sol3 drinks and some limbering up. But do
stop and move around. Eat lightly along the way. Heavier
meals tend
to make some people sleepy.
On two-lane highways or undivided multilane highways
that do not have controlled access, you’ll want to watch for some situations not usually found on freeways.
Examples are: stop signs and signals, shopping centers
with direct access to the highway, no passing zones and school zones, vehicles turning left and right
off the road,
pedestrians, cyclists, parked vehicles, and even animals.
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”?
Or is it just plain falling asleep at the .wheel? Call it
highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch
of road with the
same scenery, along with the hum
of the tires on the
road, the drone
of the engine, and the rush of the wind
against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it \
happen to you!
If it does, your vehicle can leave the road
in
less than a second, and you could crash and be
injured.
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Know how to go down hills. The most important thing
to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing
down. Don’t make your brakes do
it all. Shift to a
lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
That way, you will slow down without excessive use
of
your brakes.
I A CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going
down
a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhil lope.
Coasting downhill in
“N” (Neutral) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do
all the work of slowing down. They could
get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You
could crash. Always have your engine running
and your vehicle in gear when you go
downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transaxle, and you can climb the
hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads
in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across
the center
of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay
in your own lane. That way, you won’t be surprised by
a vehicle coming toward you in the same lane.
going uphill. You’ll want to leave extra
room to pass. If
a vehicle is passing you and doesn’t have enough room,
slow down to
make it easier for the other vehicle to get by.
be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an
accident.
It takes longer to pass another vehicle when you’re
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a Ming rocks area, or winding
roads. Be alert to these and
take appropriate action.
Winter driving can present special problems. See
“Winter Driving” in the Index.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your Buick in good shape for winter. Be sure
your engine coolant mix is correct.
Snow tires can help in loose snow, but they may give
you less traction on ice than regular tires. If you do not
expect to
be driving in deep snow, but may have to
travel over ice,
you may not want to switch to snow
tires at all.
vehicle.
You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a
small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth,
and a couple of reflective warning triangles.
And, if
you will
be driving under severe conditions, include a
small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of
burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you
properly secure these items in your vehicle.
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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
J 1
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you
know for sure that you are near help
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things
to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your
vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the
snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around
you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body
insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor
mats-anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck
under your clothing
to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep
warm, but be careful.
I-
I A CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly
CO (carbon
monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can’t see
it or
smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base
of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe.
And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
I CAUTION (Continued)
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