run flat CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 User Guide

CYLINDER HEADS: Cylinder heads incorporate
valve shrouding to create turbulence-producing com-
bustion chambers, described as fast burn. Valve seat
and guides are inserts. A steel flanged composition
type gasket is used between head and block. VALVE COVERS: The covers are sealed with
steel reinforced silicon rubber gaskets. INTAKE MANIFOLD: The intake manifold is a
tuned two-piece semi-permanent mold aluminum casting with individual primary runners leading
from a plenum to the cylinders. The manifold is de-
signed to boost torque in the 3600 rpm range and
contributes to the engine's broad, flat torque curve,
which was desired for excellent engine tractability,
response and usable power output. The intake manifold is also cored with upper level
EGR passages for balanced cylinder to cylinder EGR
distribution. VALVE TRAIN: Valve train design incorporates
the use of hydraulic roller tappets. Rocker arms are
installed on a rocker arm shaft attached to the cylin-
der head with four bolts and retainers. Viton valve
stem seals provide valve sealing. Conventional type
pushrods, retainers and valve stem locks are used.
Unique beehive style valve spring are used with
lightweight retainers for improved high RPM perfor-
mance. EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: Exhaust manifolds are
log type with a crossover and is attached directly to
the cylinder heads.ENGINE MOUNTS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
RIGHT SIDE MOUNT
(1) Remove the right engine mount insulator ver-
tical fasteners from frame rail. (2) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts
by carefully supporting the engine and transmission
assembly with a floor jack.
Fig. 1 3.3/3.8L V-6 Engine
Fig. 2 Engine Identification
Ä 3.3/3.8L ENGINE 9 - 99

(15) Install rocker arm covers tighten screws to 14
N Im (120 in. lbs.) and connector to ignition coils.
(16) Install Intake Manifold; Refer to Intake Mani-
fold Installation 3.3/3.8L Engine, Group 11 Exhaust
System and Intake Manifold.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
The valve train includes roller tappet assemblies,
aligning yokes and yoke retainer. Roller tappet alignment is maintained by machined
flats on tappet body being fitted in pairs into six
aligning yokes. The yokes are secured by an alignment
yoke retainer (Fig. 26).
PRELIMINARY STEP TO CHECKING THE HY- DRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, read the oil pressure at the gauge.
Install a reliable gauge at pressure sending unit if
vehicle has no oil pressure gauge and check the oil level
in the oil pan. The pressure should be between 30 and
80 psi (206.8 to 551.6 kPa) at 2000 rpm. The oil level in the pan should never be above the
MAX mark on dipstick, or below the MIN mark. Either
of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy
tappets. Oil Level Check: stop engine after reach-
ing normal operating temperature . Allow 5 min-
utes to stabilize oil level, check dipstick.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dip stick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while
engine is running and create foam. Foam in oil pan
would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump
causing them to become soft and allow valves to seat
noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the tappets, causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump through which air can be drawn will
create the same tappet action. Check the lubri- cation system from the intake strainer to the pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all of the
air inside of the tappets to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE DIAGNOSIS
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise. Worn valve guides or cocked springs are some-
times mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appre-
ciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in
the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod
sockets and push rod ends for wear. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy
click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leakdown around the unit plunger which will necessi-
tate replacing the tappet, or by the plunger partially
sticking in the tappet body cylinder. A heavy click is
caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by
foreign particles becoming wedged between the
plunger and the tappet body causing the plunger to
stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve
stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and
cleaning.
TAPPET REMOVAL
(1) Refer to Cylinder Head Removal of this section to
remove intake manifold and cylinder heads for access
to tappets for service. (2) Remove yoke retainer and aligning yokes.
(3) Use Tool C-4129 to remove tappets from their
bores. If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets
to insure installation in original location. If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore
to next oversize and replace with oversize tap-
pet.
CAUTION: The plunger and tappet bodies are not
interchangeable. The plunger and valve must always
be fitted to the original body. It is advisable to work on
one tappet at a time to avoid mixing of parts. Mixed
parts are not compatible. Do not disassemble a tap-
pet on a dirty work bench.
DISASSEMBLY (FIG. 27)
(1) Pry out plunger retainer spring clip.
Fig. 26 Roller Tappets Aligning Yoke and Retainer
9 - 108 3.3/3.8L ENGINE Ä

(2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of tappet
body above plunger cap. (3) Invert tappet body and remove plunger cap,
plunger, flat or ball check valve, check valve spring,
check valve retainer and plunger spring. Check valve
could be flat or ball.
CLEANING AND ASSEMBLY
(1) Clean all tappet parts in a solvent that will re-
move all varnish and carbon. (2) Replace tappets that are unfit for further ser-
vice with new assemblies. (3) If plunger shows signs of scoring or wear, valve
is pitted, or valve seat on end of plunger indicates
any condition that would prevent valve from seating,
install a new tappet assembly. (4) Assemble tappets (Fig. 27).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
(2) Install tappets in their original positions.
(3) With roller tappets, install aligning yokes with
(Fig. 26). (4) Install yoke retainer and torque screws to 12
N Im (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 26).
(5) Install cylinder heads. Refer to cylinder head
installation of this section for procedure. (6) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all hy-
draulic tappets have filled with oil and have become
quiet.
VALVE TIMING
(1) Remove front valve cover and all 6 spark plugs.
(2) Rotate engine until the #2 piston is at TDC of
the compression stroke. (3) Install a degree wheel on the crankshaft pulley.
(4) With proper adaptor, install a dial into #2
spark plug hole. Using the indicator find TDC on the
compression stroke. (5) Position the degree wheel to zero.
(6) Remove dial indicator from spark plug hole. (7) Place a 5.08mm (.200 inch) spacer between the
valve stem tip of #2 intake valve and rocker arm
pad. Allow tappet to bleed down to give a solid tap-
pet effect. (8) Install a dial indicator so plunger contacts the
#2 intake valve spring retainer as nearly perpendic-
ular as possible. Zero the indicator. (9) Rotate the engine clockwise until the in take
valve has lifted .254mm (0.010 inch).
CAUTION: Do not turn crankshaft any further clock-
wise as intake valve might bottom and result in se-
rious damage.
(10) Degree wheel should read 3 degrees BTDC to
4 degrees ATDC.
TIMING CHAIN COVER, OIL SEAL AND CHAIN
COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Cooling System
Group 7 for procedure. (3) Support engine and remove right engine
mount. (4) Raise vehicle on hoist. Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove oil pan and oil pump pick-up. It may
necessary to remove transmission inspection cover. (6) Remove right wheel and inner splash shield.
(7) Remove drive belt. Refer to Cooling System
Group 7 for procedure. (8) Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
(9) Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket.
(10) Remove crankshaft pulley (Fig. 1).
(11) Remove idler pulley from engine bracket.
(12) Remove engine bracket (Fig. 2).
(13) Remove cam sensor from chain case cover
(Fig. 3).
Fig. 27 Hydraulic Roller Tappet Assembly
Fig. 1 Removing Crankshaft Pulley
Ä 3.3/3.8L ENGINE 9 - 109

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
(1) Discard gaskets and clean all gasket surfaces
on both manifolds and on cylinder head. (2) Test gasket surfaces of manifolds for flatness
with a straight edge. Surfaces must be flat within
0.15mm per 300mm (.006 in. per foot) of manifold
length. (3) Inspect manifolds for cracks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new intake and exhaust manifold gas-
ket. Coat steel gasket lightly with Gasket Sealer on
manifold side. Do notcoat composition gasket with
(any) sealer. (2) Set exhaust manifold in place. Tighten retain-
ing nuts starting at center and progressing outward
in both directions to 23 N Im (200 in. lbs.) torque. Re-
peat this procedure until all nuts are at specified
torque. (3) Set intake manifold in place.
(4) Raise vehicle and tighten retaining screws
starting at center and progressing outward in both
directions to 23 N Im (200 in. lbs.) torque (Fig. 3). Re-
peat this procedure until all screws are at specified
torque. (5) Reverse removal procedures 1-9 for installation.
(6) With the DRBII Scan Tool use ASD Fuel Sys-
tem Test to pressurize system to check for leaks.
CAUTION: When using the ASD Fuel System Test,
the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay will remain ener-
gized for 7 minutes or until the ignition switch is
turned to the OFF position, or Stop All Test is se-
lected.
INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDSÐFLEXIBLE
FUEL ENGINE
INTAKE MANIFOLD
The manifold is die-cast aluminum with upper ple-
num and 4 tubes lower runners. These attach to the
cylinder head, with each runner leading directly to a
cylinder. The manifold is also machined for fuel rail attach-
ment and injector installation. The throttle body is
installed on the upper plenum of the manifold.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
All high strength iron casting that intermesh with
the intake manifold. For standard engines a four
branch design collects and directs exhaust gases to
the conical (articulated joint connection) outlet.
INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
SERVICEÐFLEXIBLE FUEL ENGINES
Intake and exhaust manifolds use a one piece gas-
ket. Service procedures requiring removal and instal-
lation of either must include both manifolds.
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Methanol is more toxic than gasoline. Always re-
lease fuel system pressure before servicing fuel sys-
tem components and wear methanol resistant gloves
and eye protection. Avoid breathing methanol vapors or ingesting
methanol. Headaches, dizziness and even uncon-
sciousness could result from breathing these vapors.
Serious injury, blindness and even death could result
from ingesting methanol. Methanol vapors are extremely flammable and can
travel along the ground. Service vehicles in well ven-
tilated areas and avoid ignition sources. Never
smoke while servicing the vehicle. Do not allow methanol to contact skin. Prolonged
contact with methanol can cause dry skin or an al-
lergic skin reaction. Also, prolonged contact could re-
sult in absorption through the skin.
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE
WARNING: RELEASE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
BEFORE SERVICING FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
WEAR METHANOL RESISTANT GLOVES AND EYE
PROTECTION WHILE SERVICING THE FUEL SYS-
TEM.
(a) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(b) Remove fuel filler cap.
(c) Remove the protective cap from the fuel pres-
sure test port on the fuel rail (Fig. 4).
(d) Place the open end of fuel pressure release
hose, tool number C-4799-1, into an approved gas-
oline container. Connect the other end of hose
C-4799-1 to the fuel pressure test port (Fig. 5).
Fuel pressure will bleed off through the hose into
the gasoline container. Fuel gauge C-4799-A con-
tains hose C-4799-1.
Fig. 4 Fuel Pressure Test Port
Ä EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 11 - 7

terrupted. This creates an alternating voltage in
each photo diode which is converted into on-off
pulses. The pulses are the input to the PCM. During cranking, the PCM cannot determine
crankshaft position until the 10 degree flat spot on
the outer set of slots passes through the optical unit.
Once the flat spot is detected, the PCM knows piston
number 6 will be the next piston at TDC. Since the disk rotates at half crankshaft speed, it
may take 2 engine revolutions during cranking for
the PCM to determine the position of piston number
6. For this reason the PCM will energize all six in-
jectors at the same time until it senses the position
of piston number 6.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSORÐPCM INPUT
The PCM supplies 5 volts to the MAP sensor. The
Map sensor converts intake manifold pressure into
voltage. The PCM monitors the MAP sensor output
voltage. As vacuum increases, MAP sensor voltage
decreases proportionately. Also, as vacuum decreases,
MAP sensor voltage increases proportionately. During cranking, before the engine starts running,
the PCM determines atmospheric air pressure from
the MAP sensor voltage. While the engine operates,
the PCM determines intake manifold pressure from
the MAP sensor voltage. Based on MAP sensor voltage and inputs from
other sensors, the PCM adjusts spark advance and
the air/fuel mixture. The MAP sensor (Fig. 6) mounts on a bracket at-
tached to the generator bracket. The sensor is con-
nected to the throttle body with a vacuum hose and
to the PCM electrically.
HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (O2SENSOR)ÐPCM
INPUT
The O2sensor is located in the exhaust manifold
and provides an input voltage to the PCM. The input
tells the PCM the oxygen content of the exhaust gas
(Fig. 7). The PCM uses this information to fine tune
the air-fuel ratio by adjusting injector pulse width.
The O
2sensor produces voltages from 0 to 1 volt,
depending upon the oxygen content of the exhaust
gas. When a large amount of oxygen is present
Fig. 4 Distributor Pick-up
Fig. 5 Inner and Outer Slots of Rotating Disk
Fig. 6 Map Sensor
Fig. 7 Heated Oxygen SensorÐ3.0L Engine
14 - 116 FUEL SYSTEMS Ä

ponents. Under extremes of suspension and steering
travel tire damage may occur.
WARNING: FAILURE TO EQUIP THE VEHICLE WITH
TIRES HAVING ADEQUATE SPEED RATING CAN
CAUSE SUDDEN TIRE FAILURE.
ROTATION
DIRECTIONAL TREAD PATTERN TIRES
Some vehicles are fitted with special high-perfor-
mance tires having a directional tread pattern de-
signed to improve traction on wet pavement. To obtain the full benefits of this design, the tires
must be installed so that they rotate in the correct
direction. This is indicated by arrows on the tire
sidewalls. When wheels and tires are being installed, extra
care is needed to ensure that this direction of rota-
tion is maintained. Refer to Owner's Manual for rotation schedule.
NONDIRECTIONAL TIRES
Tires on the front and rear axles of vehicles oper-
ate at different loads and perform different steering,
driving, and braking functions. For these reasons,
they wear at unequal rates, and tend to develop ir-
regular wear patterns. These effects can be reduced
by timely rotation of tires. Rotation will increase
tread life, help to maintain mud, snow, and wet trac-
tion levels, and contribute to a smooth, quiet ride. The suggested rotation method is the forward-cross
tire rotation method. This method takes advantage of
current tire industry practice which now allows cross
rotation of radial-ply tires. Refer to the owner's man-
ual (usually found in the glove box) for additional in-
formation. Other rotation methods may be used, but
may not have all the benefits of the recommended
method. Always check air pressure and wheel nut tightness
after rotation. Do NOT use oil or grease on studs
or nuts. Refer to Owner's Manual for rotation schedule.
TREAD WEAR INDICATORS
Tread wear indicators (Fig. 3) are molded into the
bottom of the tread grooves. When tread is 1.6 mm
(1/16 in.), the tread wear indicators will appear as a
13 mm (1/2 in.) band. Tire replacement is necessary when indicators ap-
pear in two or more grooves, or if localized balding
occurs.
REPAIRING LEAKS
For proper repairing, a radial tire must be removed
from the wheel. Repairs should only be made if the
defect or puncture is in the tread area otherwise the
tire should be replaced. Deflate tire completely before dismounting tire
from the wheel. Use lubrication such as a mild soap
solution when dismounting or mounting tire. Use
tools free of burrs or sharp edges which could dam-
age the tire or wheel rim. Before mounting tire on wheel, make sure all rust
scale is removed from the rim and repaint if neces-
sary. Install wheels on vehicle, progressively tightening
wheel nuts to 129 N Im (95 ft. lbs.) torque (See
Wheels).
TIRE NOISE OR VIBRATION
Radial-ply tires are sensitive to force impulses
caused by improper mounting, wheel irregularities,
or imbalance. To determine if the tires are causing the noise or
vibration, drive the vehicle over a smooth portion of
highway at different speeds and note the effect of ac-
celeration and deceleration on noise level. Differen-
tial and exhaust noise will change in intensity as
speed varies, while tire noise will usually remain
constant.
TIRE WEAR PATTERNS
Under inflation results in faster wear on shoulders
of tire. Over inflation causes faster wear at center of tread.
Excessive camber causes the tire to run at an angle
to the road. One side of tread is worn more than the
other. Excessive toe-in or toe-out causes wear on the
tread edges of the tire, from dragging of tire. There
is a feathered effect across the tread (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 Tread Wear Indicators
Ä WHEELSÐTIRES 22 - 3

WHEELS SERVICE PROCEDURES INDEX
page page
General Information ........................ 6
Tire and Wheel Balance .................... 6
Tire and Wheel Run Out .................... 7 Wheel Installation
......................... 6
Wheel Replacement ....................... 6
GENERAL INFORMATION
Original equipment wheels are designed for proper
operation at all loads up to the maximum vehicle ca-
pacity. All models use steel or cast aluminum drop center
wheels. The safety rim wheel (Fig. 1) has raised sec-
tions between the rim flanges and the rim well A.
Initial inflation of the tires forces the bead over
these raised sections. In case of tire failure the raised
sections help hold the tire in position on the wheel
until the vehicle can be brought to a safe stop. Cast aluminum wheels require special balance
weights and alignment equipment.
WHEEL INSTALLATION
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications and must be replaced with equivalent
parts. Do not use replacement parts of lessor quality
or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an en-
larged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to en-
sure proper retention of the aluminum wheels. Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces
with scraping and wire brushing. Installing wheels
without good metal-to-metal contact could cause later
loosening of wheel nuts. This could adversely affect
the safety and handling of your vehicle. To install the wheel, position it properly on the
mounting surface using the hub pilot as a guide. All wheel nuts should be lightly tightened before progres-
sively tightening them in sequence (Fig. 2). Tighten
wheel nuts to 129 N Im (95 ft. lbs.). Never use oil or
grease on studs or nuts.
WHEEL REPLACEMENT
Wheels must be replaced if they:
² have excessive run out
² are bent or dented
² leak air through welds
² have damaged bolt holes
Wheel repairs employing hammering, heating, or
welding are not allowed. Original equipment replacement wheels are avail-
able through your dealer. When obtaining wheels from
any other source, the replacement wheels should be
equivalent in load carrying capacity. The wheel dimen-
sions (diameter, width, offset, and mounting configura-
tion) must match original equipment wheels. Failure to
use equivalent replacement wheels may adversely af-
fect the safety and handling of your vehicle. Replace-
ment with used wheels is not recommended as
their service history may have included severe
treatment or very high mileage and they could
fail without warning.
TIRE AND WHEEL BALANCE
Balancing need is indicated by vibration of seats,
floor pan, or steering wheel when driving over 90 km/h
(55 mph) on a smooth road.
Fig. 1 Safety Rim
Fig. 2 Tightening Wheel Nuts (5-Stud)
22 - 6 WHEELSÐTIRES Ä

It is recommended that a two plane dynamic bal-
ancing machine be used when a wheel and tire as-
sembly require balancing. Static balancing should be
used only when a two plane dynamic balancing is not
available. For static imbalance, find location of heavy spot
causing imbalance and counterbalance wheel directly
opposite the heavy spot. Determine weight required
to counterbalance the area of imbalance. Place half
of this weight on the inner rim flange. Then place
the other half on the outer rim flange (Fig. 3). Off-
vehicle balancing is preferred.
TIRE AND WHEEL RUN OUT
Radial run out is the difference between the high
and low points on the tire or wheel periphery. Lateral run out is the wobble of the tire or wheel.
Radial run out of more than 1.5 mm (.060 inch)
measured at the center line of the tread may cause
the vehicle to shake. Lateral run out of more than 2.0 mm (.080 inch)
measured near the shoulder of the tire may cause the
vehicle to shake. Sometimes radial run out can be reduced by relo-
cating the wheel and tire assembly on the mounting
studs (See Method 1). If this does not reduce run out
to an acceptable level, the tire can be rotated on the
wheel. (See Method 2).
METHOD 1 (RELOCATE WHEEL ON HUB)
Check accuracy of the wheel mounting surface;ad-
just wheel bearings. Drive vehicle a short distance to eliminate tire flat
spotting from a parked position. Make sure all wheel nuts are properly torqued
(Fig. 2). Use run out gauge D-128-TR to determine run out
(Fig. 4).
Relocate wheel on the mounting, two studs over
from the original position. Retighten wheel nuts (Fig. 2) until all are properly
torqued, to eliminate brake distortion. Check radial run out. If still excessive, mark tire
sidewall, wheel, and stud at point of maximum run
out (Fig. 5), and proceed to Method #2.
METHOD 2 (RELOCATE TIRE ON WHEEL)
Rotating tire on wheel is particularly effective
when there is run out in both tire and wheel. Remove tire from wheel and remount wheel on hub
in former position. Check wheel radial run out (Fig. 6). It should be no
more than 0.9 mm (.035 inch). Lateral run out (Fig. 6) should be no more than 1.1
mm (.045 inch). If point of greatest wheel radial run out is near
original chalk mark, remount tire 180 degrees from
its original position. Recheck run out.
Fig. 3 Counterbalancing
Fig. 4 Run out Gauge D-128-TR
Fig. 5 Chalk Marking on Wheel, Tire, and Stud
Ä WHEELSÐTIRES 22 - 7

(7) Install lower portion of rear window in position
on rear tack strip, align to the bottom center mark. (8) Staple the corners of the rear window valance
and carrier to the rear tack strip. Verify the edges
are even. (9) Position rear stay pads and suspender straps
over fourth roof bow and over the outboard ends of
the rear window fabric. (10) Stretch lower end of suspender straps to edge
of rear tack strip. (11) Staple lower end of suspender straps to rear
tack strip. (12) Staple lower end of rear stay pad to rear tack
strip. (13) Position top cover retainer channel on fourth
roof bow. (14) Rivet top cover retainer channel to fourth roof
bow with aluminum pop-rivets. (15) Position top cover over the fourth roof bow re-
tainer locating the centerline reference marks. (16) Slide feature strip insert into the fourth roof
bow retainer channel. (17) Position top cover on rear tack strip.
(18) Staple top cover to rear tack strip starting
from the outboard corner and stapling inward. (19) Position rear tack strip over the mounting
studs on inside of quarter panels. (20) Install nuts and bolts to hold rear tack strip to
the quarter panels an deck panel. (21) Install rear seat back.
(22) Remove protective materials that was applied
to the body during to removal operation.
TOP COVER
REMOVAL (FIG. 18)
(1) Open rear window and position glass, as flat as
possible, in the drop well. (2) Lower convertible top.
(3) Remove rear seat cushion and back.
(4) Remove quarter trim panels.
(5) Remove quarter glass assemblies.
(6) Raise top to mid-point.
(7) Remove screws holding cover retainer to top
header. Separate retainer from header. (8) Separate top cover from adhesive on top
header. (9) Open trunk lid. Remove screws holding rear
deck filler panel to rear deck below rear window.
Mark screw locations before removal to aid installa-
tion. The rear deck filler panel applies pressure to
top cover to eliminate wrinkles. (10) From in luggage compartment, remove nuts
and bolts holding lower top tack strip to deck and
quarter panels. Lift sling well upward to gain access
to fasteners. CAUTION: Do not damage painted surfaces when
separating tack strip from mounting locations.
(11) Separate tack strip from deck and quarter
panels and remove staples holding top cover. Leave
rear window skirt, pads and drop well attached to
tack strip. (12) Pull top cover from adhesive in quarter glass
weatherstrip channel. (13) Remove rivets holding top cover roof rail ten-
sion cables to top header. Pull tension cables from
rear of listing pockets on top cover. (14) Remove screws holding top cover fastener
strip to center roof bows. Separate top cover from
roof bows and pull retainers from listing pockets on
top cover. (15) Fold top cover so that all material is above
rear roof bow. Slide rear top cover retainer to one
side from rear roof bow channel. (16) Separate top cover from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation. Use contact adhe-
sive to secure top cover to header and quarter glass
weatherstrip channels. Fold replacement convertible
top along center line and mark with tailors chalk.
Measure and mark the center line of header, center
bow and tack strip. Install top cover from the center
line out. Do not over stretch top cover when remov-
ing wrinkles. Allow for some shrinkage. Water leak
and wind noise tests should be performed before re-
turning vehicle to use.
SLING-WELL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove rear seat cushion and back.
(2) Remove quarter trim panels.
(3) Remove rear shoulder harness turning loop cov-
ers. (4) Remove bolts holding shoulder harness turning
loops to seat back support. (5) Remove seat back support trim cover.
(6) Disengage wire hanger from hole in quarter
panel near front seat belt retractor. (7) Disengage convertible top header latches.
(8) From in luggage compartment, remove nuts
and bolts holding lower top tack strip to deck and
quarter panels. Lift sling well upward to gain access
to fasteners.
CAUTION: Do not damage painted surfaces when
separating tack strip from mounting locations.
(9) Separate tack strip from deck and quarter pan-
els and remove staples holding sling well and top
cover to tack strip. (10) Separate sling well from vehicle.
23 - 124 AP/27 CONVERTIBLE Ä

(8) With the front clutch plate assembly tight
against the shims, measure the air gap between ar-
mature plate and rotor-pulley face with feeler gauges
(Fig. 4). The air gap should be between 0.35 and 0.65
mm (0.013 and 0.025 inch). If proper air gap is not
obtained, add or subtract shims until desired air gap
is obtained.
(9) Install compressor shaft nut. Tighten nut to
17.5 N Im (155 in. lbs.) torque.
Shims may compress after tightening shaft bolt.
Check air gap in four or more places to verify if air
gap is still correct. Spin pulley for final check. (10) Install the compressor onto the mount.
CLUTCH/COIL BREAK-IN
After a new clutch/coil has been installed, cycle the
A/C clutch 20 times (5 sec. on and 5 sec. off). During
this procedure, run engine at 1500-2000 rpm and set
the A/C on the HIGH mode. This procedure (burnish-
ing) will seat the opposing friction surfaces and pro-
vide a higher clutch torque capability.
THERMAL LIMITER SWITCH
The Thermal Limiter Switch (Fig. 5) is bolted to
the side of the compressor case. It measures compres-
sor surface temperature and is used as a safety de-
vice to cut battery voltage to the compressor clutch
coil. This is performed if compressor case tempera-
ture is excessive. This switch is NOT USEDto cycle the clutch coil.
After the compressor has cooled to normal operating
temperature, the switch will reset.
DIAGNOSIS
The switch can remain bolted to the compressor for
testing. (1) Disconnect the wiring connectors from the ther-
mal limiter switch. (2) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity be-
tween the two wiring leads. If continuity is not de-
tected, replace switch. Also check for possible
compressor overheating.
² Switch cut-out (no continuity) occurs at 125ÉC
6 3ÉC (255ÉF 637ÉF).
² Switch cuts back in (continuity) at 110ÉC 66ÉC
(230ÉF 642ÉF).
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remained fully charged
for thermal limiter switch replacement. After removing the thermal limiter switch, always
replace with a new unit. (1) Disconnect wiring connectors from switch.
(2) Remove the bolt retaining the switch holding
clamp and the switch to the side of the compressor
(Fig. 6). (3) Pry the switch from compressor case with a
screwdriver.
CLEANING
Remove silicone filler from the socket and thor-
oughly clean the socket with thinners.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the new thermal limiter switch so that
the flat copper surface faces upward. (2) Apply the specified silicone filler (KE 347 RTV)
to the flat copper surface until the surface is evenly
covered. When silicone is applied, apply only from
tube and not by hand. (3) Install the thermal limiter switch into the
socket and secure it with the thermal protector (lim-
iting switch) fixing plate and bolt. Tighten the bolt
Fig. 4 Measuring Air Gap
Fig. 5 Thermal Limiter Switch
24 - 34 HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING Ä