body CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2005 Owner's Manual

body of the vehicle by an isolator bushing located in
each end of the track bar.
OPERATION
The track bar prevents excessive side-to-side move-
ment of the rear axle. The track bar is used to keep
the location of the axle in the correct position for
optimum handling and control of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut and bolt mounting the track
bar to the rear axle (Fig. 42).(2) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the track
bar to the track bracket on the body of the vehicle
(Fig. 42). Remove the track bar.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the track bar first into the body bracket
for the track bar (Fig. 42). Install the track bar
mounting bolt in the direction shown, then install
the nut.Do not tighten at this time.
(2) Install the track bar into its mounting bracket
on the rear axle (Fig. 42). Install the track bar
mounting bolt in the direction shown, then install
the nut.Do not tighten at this time.
(3) Lower the vehicle to the ground until the full
weight of the vehicle is supported by the wheels.
Tighten both track bar mounting bolts to 95 N´m (70
ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 42 Track Bar Mounting
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - NUT
4 - MOUNTING BOLT
5 - TRACK BAR
6 - REAR AXLE
7 - FRAME MOUNTED BRACKET
2 - 46 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
TRACK BAR (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified
torque
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
required adjustment of camber and caster after the
vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension
components. Thus, when performing a wheel align-
ment, caster and camber are not normally considered
adjustable angles. Camber and caster should be
checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
If front camber is found not to meet alignment
specifications, it can be adjusted using an available
camber adjustment bolt package. Before installing a
camber adjustment bolt package on a vehicle found
to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspen-
sion components for any signs of damage or bending.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicles
wheel alignment by heating, bending or by perform-
ing any other modification to the vehicle's front
suspension components or body.
If camber readings are not within specifications,
use the following procedure to install the front cam-
ber adjustment bolt package and then adjust front
camber.
CAMBER ADJUSTMENT BOLT PACKAGE INSTALLATION
The camber adjustment bolt package contains 2
flange bolts, 2 cam bolts, 2 dog bone washers, and 4
nuts. This package services both sides of the vehicle.
Use the package to attach the strut clevis bracket to
the steering knuckle after the strut clevis brackethas been modified. To install and adjust the camber
adjustment bolt package, follow the procedure below.
(1) Raise the vehicle until its tires are not support-
ing the weight of the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
CAUTION: When removing the steering knuckle
from the strut clevis bracket, do not put a strain on
the brake flex hose. Also, do not let the weight of
the steering knuckle assembly be supported by the
brake flex hose when removed from the strut
assembly. If necessary use a wire hanger to sup-
port the steering knuckle assembly or if required
remove the brake flex hose from the caliper assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The knuckle to strut assembly attaching
bolt shanks are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the
bolts stationary.
(3) Remove the top and bottom, strut clevis
bracket to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig.
7)and discard. Separate the steering knuckle from
the strut clevis bracket and position steering knuckle
so it is out of the way of the strut.
CAUTION: When slotting the bottom mounting hole
on the strut clevis bracket, do not enlarge the hole
beyond the indentations on the sides of the strut
clevis bracket (Fig. 8).
Fig. 7 Clevis Bracket To Steering Knuckle Attaching
Bolts
1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - TIE ROD END
4 - ROTOR
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-53
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Slide inner CV joint seal boot retaining clamp,
onto the interconnecting shaft. Then, slide the
replacement inner CV joint sealing boot onto the
interconnecting shaft.Inner CV joint seal boot
MUST be positioned on interconnecting shaft
so the raised bead on the inside of the small
diameter end of the seal boot is in mating
groove on interconnecting shaft (Fig. 15).(2) Install spider assembly onto interconnecting
shaft (Fig. 16). Spider assembly must be installed on
interconnecting shaft far enough to fully install spi-
der retaining snap-ring. If the spider assembly will
not fully install on interconnecting shaft by hand, it
can be installed by tapping the spider body with a
brass drift (Fig. 17).Do not hit the outer tripod
bearings in an attempt to install spider assem-
bly on interconnecting shaft.
Fig. 14 Spider Assembly Removal from
Interconnecting Shaft
1 - SPIDER ASSEMBLY
2 - DO NOT HIT SPIDER ASSEMBLY BEARINGS WHEN
REMOVING SPIDER ASSEMBLY
3 - BRASS DRIFT
4 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
Fig. 15 Sealing Boot Installation on Interconnecting
Shaft
1 - SEALING BOOT
2 - RAISED BEAD IN THIS AREA OF SEALING BOOT
3 - GROOVE
4 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
Fig. 16 Spider Assembly Installation on
Interconnecting Shaft
1 - SPIDER ASSEMBLY
2 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
Fig. 17 Installing Spider Assembly on
Interconnecting Shaft
1 - DO NOT HIT BEARINGS WHEN INSTALLING THE SPIDER
ASSEMBLY
2 - SPIDER ASSEMBLY
3 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
4 - BRASS DRIFT
RSHALF SHAFT - FRONT3-7
CV BOOT - INNER (Continued)

As disc brake shoe linings wear, master cylinder
reservoir brake fluid level will drop. Adjust as neces-
sary. Fluid level should always be checked after
replacing shoes.
OPERATION - DISC BRAKES (REAR)
The rear disc brakes operate similarly to front disc
brakes, however, there are some features that require
different service procedures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DRUM BRAKE
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
The rear drum brakes on this vehicle automatically
adjust when required during the normal operation of
the vehicle every time the brakes are applied. Use
the following procedure to test the operation of the
automatic adjuster.
Place the vehicle on a hoist with a helper in the
driver's seat to apply the brakes. Remove the access
plug from the adjustment hole in each brake support
plate to provide visual access of the brake adjuster
star wheel.
To eliminate the condition where maximum adjust-
ment of the rear brake shoes does not allow the auto-
matic adjuster to operate when tested, back the star
wheel off approximately 30 notches. It will be neces-
sary to hold the adjuster lever away from the star
wheel to permit this adjustment.
Have the helper apply the brakes. Upon applica-
tion of the brake pedal, the adjuster lever should
move down, turning the adjuster star wheel. Thus, a
definite rotation of the adjuster star wheel can be
observed if the automatic adjuster is working prop-
erly. If one or more adjusters do not function prop-
erly, the respective drum must be removed for
adjuster servicing.
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The brake tubes are steel with a corrosion-resis-
tant nylon coating applied to the external surfaces.
The flex hoses are made of reinforced rubber with fit-
tings at each end.
The primary and secondary brake tubes leading
from the master cylinder to the ABS ICU Hydraulic
Control Unit (HCU) or the non-ABS junction block
have a special flexible section. This flexible section is
required due to cradle movement while the vehicle is
in motion (The ICU and non-ABS junction block are
mounted to the cradle).If replacement of these
lines is necessary, only the original factory
brake line containing the flexible section must
be used.
OPERATION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The purpose of the chassis brake tubes and flex
hoses is to transfer the pressurized brake fluid devel-
oped by the master cylinder to the wheel brakes of
the vehicle. The flex hoses are made of rubber to
allow for the movement of the vehicle's suspension.
INSPECTION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle. Inspection of brake hoses
should be performed whenever the brake system is
serviced and every 7,500 miles or 12 months, which-
ever comes first (every engine oil change). Inspect
hydraulic brake hoses for surface cracking, scuffing,
or worn spots. If the fabric casing of the rubber hose
becomes exposed due to cracks or abrasions in the
rubber hose cover, the hose should be replaced imme-
diately. Eventual deterioration of the hose can take
place with possible burst failure. Faulty installation
can cause twisting, resulting in wheel, tire, or chassis
interference.
The brake tubing should be inspected periodically
for evidence of physical damage or contact with mov-
ing or hot components.
The flexible brake tube sections used on this vehi-
cle in the primary and secondary tubes from the
master cylinder to the ABS hydraulic control unit
connections must also be inspected. This flexible tub-
ing must be inspected for kinks, fraying and contact
with other components or with the body of the vehi-
cle.
Fig. 10 Caliper Piston Seal Function For Automatic
Adjustment
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASERS
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

shoes on the opposite side of the vehicle as well as
the shoes failing inspection.
If the brake shoe assemblies do not require
replacement, be sure to reinstall the brake shoes in
the original position they were removed from.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Completely retract caliper piston back into pis-
ton bore of caliper assembly.
(2) Lubricate both adapter abutments where the
shoes contact with a liberal amount of MopartMul-
tipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent.
(3) If removed, install the brake rotor on the hub,
making sure it is squarely seated on the face of the
hub.
(4) Install the inboard brake shoe into the caliper
piston by firmly pressing it into the piston bore using
your thumbs. Be sure inboard brake shoe is posi-
tioned squarely against the face of the caliper piston.
NOTE: The outboard shoes are different left to
right. They can be identified by a L or R stamped on
the clip.
(5) Install the outboard brake shoe on the disc
brake caliper. Be sure the outboard shoe is positioned
squarely against the outboard fingers of the caliper.
CAUTION: Use care when installing the caliper
assembly onto the adapter, so the caliper guide pin
bushings do not get damaged by the mounting
bosses.
(6) Carefully lower caliper and brake shoes over
rotor and onto adapter, reversing the removal proce-
dure (Fig. 15).
CAUTION: When installing the caliper guide pin
bolts extreme caution should be taken not to
crossthread the guide pin bolts.
(7) Install the caliper guide pin bolts. Tighten the
guide pin bolts to a torque of 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence until all
nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat
the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of
135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(9) Lower vehicle.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump the brake
pedal several times to insure the vehicle has a firm
brake pedal to adequately stop the vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal several times to set brake
shoes to rotors.
(11) Check fluid level in reservoir.(12) Road test the vehicle and make several stops
to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to
seat the brake shoe linings.
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REAR
DRUM
REMOVAL - REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies
from the vehicle.
(3) Remove rear brake drum to hub retaining clips
(if equipped), then remove rear brake drums. (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM
- REMOVAL)
NOTE: When creating slack in the park brake cables
by locking out the automatic adjuster, (Fig. 18) be
sure that the park brake pedal is in the released
(most upward) position.
(4) Create slack in the rear park brake cables.
Slack is created by grabbing exposed section of front
park brake cable and pulling it down and rearward.
Slack is maintained in the park brake cable by
installing a pair of locking pliers on the park brake
cable just rearward ofonly the rearbody outrigger
bracket. (Fig. 18)
Fig. 18 Locked Out Park Brake Automatic Adjuster
1 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
2 - REAR BODY OUTRIGGER BRACKET
3 - LOCKING PLIERS
RSBRAKES - BASE5-19
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REAR DISC (Continued)

DISC BRAKE CALIPER -
FRONT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(CONTINENTAL TEVES BRAKES)
(1) Depress the brake pedal past its first inch of
travel and hold it in this position using a brake pedal
depressor (holding) tool. This is done to isolate the
master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system dis-
allowing the brake fluid to completely drain out of
the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper. There are two washers (one
on each side of the brake hose fitting) that will come
off with the banjo bolt. Discard these washers.
(5) Remove the 2 caliper guide pin bolts.
(6) Remove the brake caliper from the adapter.
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(TRW BRAKES)
(1) Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress the
brake pedal past its first one inch of travel and hold
it in this position. This will isolate the master cylin-
der from the brake hydraulic system and will not
allow the brake fluid to drain out of the master cyl-
inder reservoir when the lines are opened.
(2) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.
(3) Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper (Fig. 31). There are two
washers (one on each side of the flex hose fitting)
that will come off with the banjo bolt. Discard the
washers.
(5) Remove the two brake caliper guide pin bolts
(Fig. 31).
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the disc
brake adapter.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER GUIDE PIN
BUSHINGS (CONTINENTAL TEVES BRAKES)
Before disassembling the brake caliper, clean and
inspect it. Refer to CLEANING or INSPECTION in
this section.(1) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the rub-
ber guide pin bushing. Pull the guide pin bushing out
the other side of the brake caliper mounting boss.
(2) Repeat this procedure on the remaining bush-
ing.
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
Fig. 31 Brake Caliper Mounting (Typical)
1 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - BANJO BOLT
4 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASERS

DISC BRAKE CALIPER - REAR
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
NOTE: Handling of the rotor and caliper, must be
done in such a way as to avoid damage to the rotor
and scratching or nicking of lining on the brake
shoes.
(1) Depress the brake pedal past its first inch of
travel and hold it in this position using a brake pedal
depressor (holding) tool. This is done to isolate the
master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system dis-
allowing the brake fluid to completely drain out of
the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(3) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly from
vehicle.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper. There are two washers (one
on each side of the brake hose fitting) that will come
off with the banjo bolt. Discard these washers.
(5) Remove the disc brake caliper to adapter guide
pin bolts (Fig. 36).
(6) Remove rear caliper from adapter using the fol-
lowing procedure. First rotate front of caliper up
from the adapter. Then pull the rear of the caliper
and the outboard brake shoe anti-rattle clip out from
under the rear abutment on the adapter (Fig. 37).
(7) If the brake rotor requires removal, it can now
be removed by first removing the retainer clips fromthe wheel mounting studs, then pulling the rotor
straight off the studs.
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.
Fig. 36 Caliper Guide Pin Bolts
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - ADAPTER
3 - AXLE
4 - GUIDE PIN BOLTS
5 - DRIVESHAFT (AWD MODELS ONLY)
Fig. 37 Removing/Installing Caliper
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER
5 - 28 BRAKES - BASERS

MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder is located on the power brake
booster in the engine compartment on the driver's
side (Fig. 45). This vehicle uses 3 different master
cylinders. Master cylinder usage depends on what
type of brake system the vehicle is equipped with.
CAUTION: Master cylinders are not interchangeable
between systems. Performance and stopping dis-
tance issues will result if the incorrect master cyl-
inder is installed on the vehicle.
For information on master cylinder application,
bore and type, view the following table:
BRAKE SYSTEMMASTER CYLINDER
BORE/TYPE
Disc/Drum - ABS23.8 mm (15/16 in.)
Conventional
Compensating Port
Disc/Drum - Non-ABS23.8 mm (15/16 in.)
Conventional
Compensating Port
Disc/Disc - ABS25.4 mm (1.0 in.)
Conventional
Compensating Port
Disc/Disc ABS With
Traction Control25.4 mm (1.0 in.) Dual
Center PortCAUTION: When replacing a master cylinder, be
sure to use the correct master cylinder for the type
of brake system the vehicle is equipped with.
The body of the master cylinder is an anodized alu-
minum casting. It has a machined bore to accept the
master cylinder pistons and threaded ports with
seats for the hydraulic brake line connections.
The brake fluid reservoir is mounted on the top of
the master cylinder. It is made of a see-through
polypropylene type plastic for easy fluid level view-
ing. A brake fluid level switch is attached to the
brake fluid reservoir.
The master cylinder is not a repairable component
and must be replaced if diagnosed to be functioning
improperly. The brake fluid reservoir and brake fluid
level switch can be replaced separately.
CAUTION: Do not hone the bore of the cylinder as
this will remove the anodized surface from the bore.
DESCRIPTION - RHD
The master cylinder used on right hand drive
(RHD) vehicles functions similarly to that used on
left hand drive (LHD) vehicles. The RHD master cyl-
inder, as well as the RHD power brake booster, is
located in the same area, but lower in the engine
compartment than LHD models (Fig. 46). For that
reason an extension manifold is placed between the
fluid reservoir and master cylinder housing allowing
the fluid reservoir to be positioned in the same loca-
tion as on LHD models.
Fig. 45 Master Cylinder And Booster Location
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
Fig. 46 RHD MASTER CYLINDER AND POWER
BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
3 - FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-35

OPERATION
When the brake pedal is depressed, the master cyl-
inder primary and secondary pistons apply brake
pressure through the chassis tubes to the brakes at
each tire and wheel assembly.
The master cylinder primary outlet port supplies
hydraulic pressure to the right front and left rear
brakes. The secondary outlet port supplies hydraulic
pressure to the left front and right rear brakes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
CAUTION: When clamping master cylinder in vise,
only clamp master cylinder by its mounting flange.
Do not clamp master cylinder piston rod, reservoir,
seal or body.
(1) Clamp master cylinder in a vise.
NOTE: Use correct bleeder tubes when bleeding
master cylinder. Master cylinder outlet ports vary in
size and type depending on whether master cylin-
der is for a vehicle equipped with ABS or not. ABS
equipped master cylinders require the additional
use of ISO style flare adapters supplied in Special
Tool Package 8822 to be used in conjunction with
Bleeder Tubes, Special Tool Package 8358.
(2) Attach special tools for bleeding master cylin-
der in the following fashion:
(a)For non-ABS control equipped master
cylinders, thread a Bleeder Tube, Special Tool
8358±1, into each outlet port. Tighten each tube to
17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque. Flex bleeder tubes and
place open ends into mouth of fluid reservoir as far
down as possible (Fig. 47).
(b)For ABS equipped master cylinders,
thread one Adapter, Special Tool 8822±2, in each
outlet port. Tighten Adapters to 17 N´m (145 in.
lbs.) torque. Next, thread a Bleeder Tube, Special
Tool 8358±1, into each Adapter. Tighten each tube
to 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.) torque. Flex bleeder tubes
and place open ends into mouth of fluid reservoir
as far down as possible (Fig. 47).
NOTE: Make sure open ends of bleeder tubes stay
below surface of brake fluid once reservoir is filled
to proper level.
(3) Fill brake fluid reservoir with Mopartbrake
fluid or equivalent conforming to DOT 3 (DOT 4 and
DOT 4+ are acceptable) specifications. Make sure
fluid level is above tips of bleeder tubes in reservoir
to ensure no air is ingested during bleeding.
(4) Using a wooden dowel as a pushrod (Fig. 47),
slowly depress master cylinder pistons, then releasepressure, allowing pistons to return to released posi-
tion. Repeat several times until all air bubbles are
expelled. Make sure fluid level stays above tips of
bleeder tubes in reservoir while bleeding.
(5) Remove bleeder tubes from master cylinder
outlet ports, then plug outlet ports and install fill cap
on reservoir.
(6) Remove master cylinder from vise.
(7) Install master cylinder on vehicle. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - BASE/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MAS-
TER CYLINDER - INSTALLATION)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Vacuum in the power brake booster must
be pumped down (removed) before removing mas-
ter cylinder from power brake booster. This is nec-
essary to prevent the power brake booster from
sucking in any contamination as the master cylin-
der is removed. This can be done simply by pump-
ing the brake pedal, with the vehicle's engine not
running, until a firm feeling brake pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump brake pedal
until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
(3) Disconnect positive battery terminal.
(4) Remove battery shield.
Fig. 47 Master Cylinder Set Up For Bleeding
1 - BLEEDER TUBES 8358
2 - WOODEN DOWEL
3 - ADAPTER 8822-2 (USE ONLY ON ABS EQUIPPED MASTER
CYLINDERS)
4 - ADAPTER 8822-2 (USE ONLY ON ABS EQUIPPED MASTER
CYLINDERS)
5 - 36 BRAKES - BASERS
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)