check engine light CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 Owner's Guide

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 54).
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(19) Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining
clip center tang to pass over end of brake pedal pin.
Then pull retaining clip off brake pedal pin.Discard
retaining clip. It is not to be reused. Replace
only with a new retaining clip when assem-
bling.
(20) Slide booster input rod off pedal pin.
(21) Remove the four nuts attaching power brake
booster to dash panel (Fig. 57).
(22) Slide power brake booster forward and remove
through engine compartment (Fig. 58).
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the power
brake vacuum booster it is serviced ONLY as a
complete assembly.INSTALLATION - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
(1) Position power brake booster on dash panel
using the reverse procedure of its removal (Fig. 58).
It may be necessary to push in on booster input rod
as it is guided through the dash panel.
(2) Install the four nuts mounting the booster to
the dash panel (Fig. 57). Tighten the mounting nuts
to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal pin where it contacts the
booster input rod.
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal pin on
the power brake booster input rod, do not re-use
the old retaining clip.
(4) Install booster input rod on brake pedal pin
and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 59).
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(5) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the silencer panel below the steering
column.
(7) Connect vacuum hose to check valve on power
brake booster.
Fig. 57 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - DASH BRACKET
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Fig. 58 BOOSTER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Fig. 59 Retaining Pin Installed On Brake Pedal Pin
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - BOOSTER INPUT ROD
5 - 40 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH SYSTEM
Clutch problem diagnosis will generally require a
road test to determine the type of fault. Component
inspection will then determine the problem after road
testing.
Drive the vehicle at normal speeds during road
test. Shift the transaxle through all gear ranges and
observe clutch action. If chatter, grab, slip, or
improper release is experienced, remove and inspect
the clutch components. If the problem is noise or
hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed. The
transaxle or other driveline components may actually
be at fault.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS - CLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC FACING
COVERED WITH OIL OR
GREASEOil leak at engine rear main or
transaxle input shaft seal.Correct leak and replace modular clutch
assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover and
disc (2.5L TD).
Too much grease applied to splines
of disc and input shaft.Apply lighter coating of grease to splines.
NO FAULT FOUND WITH
CLUTCH
COMPONENTSProblem actually related to
suspension or driveline component.Further diagnosis required. Check
engine/transmission mounts, suspension
attaching parts and other driveline
components as needed.
Engine related problems. Check EFI and ignition systems.
PARTIAL ENGAGEMENT
OF CLUTCH DISCClutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent, distorted (rough
handling, improper assembly).Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Clutch disc damaged or distorted. Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Clutch misalignment. Verify modular clutch pilot plate alignment
to crankshaft. Replace the modular clutch
assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover and
disc (2.5L TD) if the pilot plate is loose or
bent.
Improper transaxle-to-engine
installation.Verify transaxle is properly installed to
engine.
Fig. 8 Release Bearing and Lever (RHD)
1 - RELEASE LEVER
2 - RELEASE BEARING
6a - 4 CLUTCHRG
CLUTCH (Continued)

ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM
Establish what driving condition caused the cooling
system complaint. The problem may be caused by an
abnormal load on the system such as the following:
prolonged idle, very high ambient temperature, slight
tail wind at idle, slow traffic speed, traffic jam, high
speed, steep grade.
DRIVING TECHNIQUES
To avoid overheating the cooling system:
(1) Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
(2) Do not increase engine speed for more air flow
and coolant flow because the electric motor fan sys-
tems are not responsive to engine RPM. The added
cooling from higher coolant flow rate is more than
offset by increased heat rejection (engine heat added
to coolant).
TRAILER TOWING
Consult the owner's manual under Trailer Towing
and do not exceed specified limits.
VISUAL INSPECTION
If the cooling system problem is not caused by a
driving condition, perform a visual inspection to
determine if there was a recent service or accident
repair, including the following:
²Loose/damaged water pump drive belt
²Incorrect cooling system refilling (trapped air or
low level)
²Brakes possibly dragging
²Damaged hoses
²Loose/damaged hose clamps
²Damaged/incorrect engine thermostat
²Damaged cooling fan motor, fan blade and fan
shroud
²Damaged head gasket
²Damaged water pump
²Damaged radiator
²Damaged coolant recovery system
²Damaged heater core
²Open/shorted electrical circuits
If the visual inspection reveals none of the above
as cause for a cooling system complaint, refer to the
following diagnostic charts.
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK.1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective, or was not
properly seated.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seal. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Replace cap as
necessary.
2. Incorrect cap was installed. 2. Replace cap as necessary.
3. Incorrect coolant mixture. 3. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE IS
READING HIGH OR HOT.1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
7 - 14 ENGINERS

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN
COOLANT BOTTLE.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN
NORMAL RANGE.1. Level changes are to be
expected as coolant volume
fluctuates with engine temperature.
The coolant level will also drop as
the system removes air from a
recent filling.1. A normal condition. No repair is
necessary.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
IS INCONSISTENT (FLUCTUATES,
CYCLES OR IS ERRATIC).1. Normal reaction to fan and/or
thermostat cycle 1, Examples B
and C. During cold weather
operation with the heater blower in
the high position, the gauge reading
may drop slightly 1, Example D.
Fluctuation is also influenced by
outside temperature and heavy
loads 1, Example E.1. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary.
2. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running) 1,
Example F.2. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge reading should
return to normal range 1, Example
A, after vehicle is driven.
3. Gauge reading high after
restarting a warmed-up (hot)
engine.3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range 1, Example
A, after a few minutes of engine
operation.
4. Temperature gauge or engine
coolant temperature sensor
defective or shorted. Also, corroded
or loose wiring in the electrical
circuit.4. Check operation of gauge or
engine coolant temperature sensor
and repair, if necessary.
CLEANING
Drain cooling system and refill with clean water.
Refer to procedures in this section. Run engine with
radiator cap installed until upper radiator hose is
hot. Stop engine and drain water from system. If
water is dirty; fill, run, and drain system again, until
water runs clear.
INSPECTION
After performing a cleaning/flush procedure,
inspect all hoses, clamps and connections for deterio-
ration and leaks. Inspect radiator and heater core for
leaks.
COOLANT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLANT
CONCENTRATION
Coolant concentration should be checked when any
additional coolant was added to system or after a cool-
ant drain, flush and refill. The coolant mixture offers
optimum engine cooling and protection against corrosion
when mixed to a freeze point of -37ÉC (-34ÉF) to -59ÉC
(-50ÉF). The use of a hydrometer or a refractometer can
be used to test coolant concentration.
A hydrometer will test the amount of glycol in a
mixture by measuring the specific gravity of the mix-
ture. The higher the concentration of ethylene glycol,
the larger the number of balls that will float, and
higher the freeze protection (up to a maximum of
60% by volume glycol).
RSENGINE7-17
ENGINE (Continued)

A refractometer will test the amount of glycol in a
coolant mixture by measuring the amount a beam of
light bends as it passes through the fluid.
Some coolant manufactures use other types of gly-
cols into their coolant formulations. Propylene glycol
is the most common new coolant. However, propylene
glycol based coolants do not provide the same freez-
ing protection and corrosion protection and is not rec-
ommended.
CAUTION: Do not mix types of coolantÐcorrosion
protection will be severely reduced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLANT SERVICE
For engine coolant recommended service schedule,
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAIN-
TENANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER
DESCRIPTION
The coolant recovery/reserve system container is
mounted in the engine compartment (Fig. 2). The
container is made of plastic.
OPERATION
The coolant recovery system works with the radia-
tor pressure cap to use thermal expansion and con-
traction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. Provides a convenient and safe method
for checking coolant level and adjusting level at
atmospheric pressure without removing the radiator
pressure cap. It also provides some reserve coolant to
cover deaeration, evaporation, or boiling losses.
Fig. 1 Temperature Gauge Indications
7 - 18 ENGINERS
COOLANT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLANT
RECOVERY SYSTEM
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator.
(1) With the engineoffand cooling systemnot
under pressure, drain several ounces of coolant from
the radiator draincock while observing the coolant
recovery container. Coolant level in the container
should drop.
(2) Remove the radiator pressure cap. The coolant
level should be full to the top radiator neck. If not,
and the coolant level in the container is at or above
the MIN mark, there is an air leak in the coolant
recovery system.
(3) Check hose and hose connections to the con-
tainer, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap seal to
the radiator filler neck for leaks.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the lower attaching screws (Fig. 2).
(3) Lower the vehicle.
(4) Remove the upper attaching screw (Fig. 2).
(5)
Disconnect recovery hose from container (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the recovery container.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the recovery hose to container (Fig. 2).
(2) Position the recovery container on the frame
rail (Fig. 2).
(3) Install the upper attaching screw and tighten
to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).(4) Raise the vehicle on hoist.
(5) Install the lower attaching screws and tighten
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Add coolant to container as necessary. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
The engine block heater is available as an optional
accessory on all models. The heater is operated by
ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a
power cord located behind the radiator grille. This
provides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the engine block,
with the heating element immersed in coolant.
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cool-
ing system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt
A.C.) is applied to the element, it creates heat. This
heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This pro-
vides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either
the power cord or the heater element. Test power
cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-
volt test light; test heater element continuity with an
ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Disconnect the power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove the
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean block core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Install power cord plug to heater.
(5) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
Fig. 2 COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
1 - UPPER BOLT ATTACHING TO BATTERY TRAY
2 - COOLANT RECOVERY/RESERVE CONTAINER
3 - UPPER BOLT
4 - HOSE
5 - LOWER BOLT (QTY. 2)
6 - LEFT SIDE FRAME RAIL
RSENGINE7-19
COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER (Continued)

WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ªDO NOT OPEN
HOTº ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM
IS HOT OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust coolant freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new coolant.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN
PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE COUNTERCLOCK-
WISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE)
BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST
STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap to clean the pressure cap.
INSPECTION
Hold the cap in your hand,top side up(Fig. 20).
The vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open.
If the rubber gasket has swollen, preventing the
valve from opening, replace the cap.
Hold the cleaned cap in your hand,upside down.
If any light can be seen between vent valve and the
rubber gasket, replace the cap.Do not use a
replacement cap that has a spring to hold the
vent shut.
A replacement cap must be of the type designed for
coolant reserve systems. This design ensures coolant
return to the radiator.
RADIATOR FAN
DESCRIPTION
The dual radiator fans are mounted to the back
side of the radiator (Fig. 21). The radiator fan consist
of the fan blade, electric motor and a support shroud
which are all serviced as an assembly.
Fig. 19 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - PRESSURE BOTTLE
8 - FILLER NECK
Fig. 20 Cooling System Pressure Cap
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ENGINE OUTLET CONNECTOR
8 - FILLER NECK
RSENGINE7-27
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL
DESCRIPTION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................1
COOLING SYSTEM......................1
COOLING SYSTEM LEAK TEST.............6
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK..........7COOLING SYSTEM AERATION.............7
CLEANING...............................7
INSPECTION.............................7
SPECIFICATIONS.........................8
ACCESSORY DRIVE.......................9
ENGINE................................14
COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible, maintains
normal operating temperature and prevents over-
heating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment. The cooling system
is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water pump to
circulate coolant throughout the system. A separate
and remotely mounted, pressurized coolant tank
using a pressure/vent cap is used.
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of:
²Charge Air Cooler
²Electric Cooling Fans
²A aluminum-core radiator with plastic side
tanks
²A separate pressurized coolant tank
²A pressure/vent cap on the coolant tank
²Fan shroud
²Thermostat
²Coolant
²Low coolant warning lamp
²Coolant temperature gauge
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
(1) PROLONGED IDLE, VERY HIGH AMBIENT
TEMPERATURE, SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE,
SLOW TRAFFIC, TRAFFIC JAMS, HIGH SPEED
OR STEEP GRADES.
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is rec-
ommended.
(2) TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
(3) RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts (incorrect water pump)
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to following Cooling System Diagnosis
charts.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only.
RGCOOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL7a-1

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
6. Freeze point of antifreeze not
correct. Mixture may be too rich.6. Check antifreeze. Adjust
antifreeze-to-water ratio as
required.
7. Coolant not flowing through
system.7. Check for coolant flow in
coolant tank with engine warm
and thermostat open. Coolant
should be observed flowing
through the tank. If flow is not
observed, determine reason for
lack of flow and repair as
necessary.
8. Radiator or A/C condensor fins
are dirty or clogged.8. Clean debris from radiator or
A/C condensor
9. Radiator core is corroded or
plugged.9. Have radiator re-cored or
replaced.
10. Aftermarket A/C installed without
proper A/C condensor.10. Install proper A/C
condensor.
11. Dragging Brakes. 11. Check and correct as
necessary.
12. Non-factory bug screen is being
used reducing airflow.12. Only a factory screen
should be used.
13. Thermostat partially or
completely shut. This is more
prevalent on high mileage vehicles.13. Check thermostat and
replace if necessary.
14. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 14. Check cylinder head gasket
for leaks.
15. Heater core leaking. 15. Check heater cor for leaks.
Repair as necessary.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING IS
INCONSISTENT
(FLUCTUATES, CYCLES
OR IS ERRATIC)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly. Fluctuation is also
influenced by loads, outside
temperature and extended idle time
with diesel engines.1. A normal condition. No
correction is necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge
and repair as necessary.
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle
is brought to a stop after heavy use
(engine still running).3. A normal condition. No
correction needed. Gauge
should return to normal range
after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after starting
a warm-iup (hot) engine.4. A normal condition. No
correction needed. Gauge
should return to normal after a
few minutes of engine
operation.
RGCOOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL7a-3
COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)