CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2002 Service Manual

(3) Tighten all five wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence (Fig. 33). Tighten wheel nuts to a
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS -
FRONT
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If a wheel mounting stud needs to be
replaced in the hub and bearing assembly, the
studs MUST NOT be hammered out of the hub
flange. If a stud is removed by hammering it out of
the bearing flange, damage to the hub and bearing
assembly will occur leading to premature bearing
failure.(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.
(3) Remove the two adapter mounting bolts secur-
ing both the disc brake caliper adapter to the steer-
ing knuckle (Fig. 34).
(4) Remove the disc brake caliper and adapter as
an assembly from the steering knuckle (Fig. 34).
Hang the assembly out of the way using wire or a
bungee cord. Use care not to overextend the brake
hose when doing this.
(5) Remove brake rotor from hub by pulling it
straight off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 34).
(6) On the wheel mounting stud to be removed,
install a wheel mounting (lug) nut far enough so the
threads on the stud are even with end of nut. Install
Remover, Special Tool C-4150A on hub and bearing
assembly flange and wheel stud (Fig. 35).
(7) Tighten down on special tool, pushing wheel
stud out of the hub flange. When shoulder of wheel
stud is past flange, remove special tool from hub and
bearing. Remove nut from stud and remove stud
from hub flange.
Fig. 32 Wheel Cover Installation Over Two Nuts
1 - RETAINING TABS
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - BOLT-ON WHEEL COVER
Fig. 33 Nut Tightening Sequence
Fig. 34 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
22 - 20 TIRES/WHEELSRS
WHEEL COVER (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

INSTALLATION
(1) Install replacement wheel stud into flange of
hub and bearing assembly. Install washers on wheel
stud, then install a wheel mounting (lug) nut on stud
with flat side of lug nut against washers as shown
(Fig. 36).(2) Tighten the nut, pulling the wheel stud into
the flange of the hub and bearing. When the head of
the stud is fully seated against the rear of the hub
flange, remove nut and washers from stud.
(3) Install the brake rotor back on the hub and
bearing (Fig. 34).
(4) Install brake caliper and adapter back over
brake rotor aligning adapter with mounting holes on
steering knuckle (Fig. 34).
(5) Install the two adapter mounting bolts securing
the adapter to the steering knuckle. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting lug nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion, then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle to the ground.
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS -
REAR
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If a wheel attaching stud needs to be
replaced in the hub and bearing assembly the studs
MUST NOT be hammered out of the hub flange. If a
stud is removed by hammering it out of the bearing
flange, damage to the hub and bearing assembly
will occur leading to premature hub and bearing
failure.
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the brake drum or disc brake caliper
and rotor. Refer to Brakes.
(4) Install a lug nut on the wheel stud to be
removed from the hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 37)
so the threads on stud are even with end of lug nut.
Install Remover, Special Tool C-4150A on hub and
bearing assembly flange and wheel stud (Fig. 37).
(5) Tightening down on special tool will push
wheel stud out of the hub and bearing assembly
flange.
(6) Remove lug nut from stud and remove wheel
stud from flange.
Fig. 35 Wheel Stud Removal (Typical)
1 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150A
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
5 - WHEEL STUD
Fig. 36 Installing Wheel Stud (Typical)
1 - WASHERS
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
RSTIRES/WHEELS22-21
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS - FRONT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

INSTALLATION
(1) Install replacement wheel stud into flange of
hub and bearing assembly. Install washers on wheel
stud, then install a wheel lug nut on stud with flat
side of lug nut against washers (Fig. 38).
(2) Tighten the wheel lug nut, pulling the wheel
stud into the flange of the hub and bearing assembly.
When the head of the stud is fully seated against the
bearing flange, remove lug nut and washers from
wheel stud.(3) Install the brake drum or disc brake rotor and
caliper on the hub and bearing assembly.
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.
Fig. 37 Wheel Stud Removal From Hub And Bearing
1 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
3 - WHEEL STUD
4 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150A
Fig. 38 Wheel Stud Installation
1 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - WASHERS
4 - WHEEL STUD
22 - 22 TIRES/WHEELSRS
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS - REAR (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DESCRIPTION - VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION....1
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE . . . 2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR........................3
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING . 10
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE............................11
BODY LUBRICATION...................12SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY..............................13
DOOR - FRONT.........................14
DOORS - SLIDING.......................24
DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE.......39
EXTERIOR.............................44
HOOD.................................60
INSTRUMENT PANEL.....................63
INTERIOR..............................72
PAINT.................................83
SEATS................................85
STATIONARY GLASS....................107
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................112
BODY STRUCTURE.....................115
BODY
DESCRIPTION - VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
Throughout this group, references to the
DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicle family identifi-
cation code are used when describing a procedure
that is unique to that vehicle. Refer to Introduction
Group of this manual for detailed information on
vehicle identification. If a procedure is common to all
vehicles covered in this manual, no reference will be
made to a vehicle family code.
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING: USE A OSHA APPROVED BREATHING
FILTER WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN
A CONFINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH PETRO-
LEUM OR ALCOHOL ± BASED CLEANING SOL-
VENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT STAND UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE THAT
IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: When holes must be drilled or punched
in an inner body panel, verify depth of space to the
outer body panel, electrical wiring, or other compo-
nents. Damage to vehicle can result.
Do not weld exterior panels unless combustiblematerial on the interior of vehicle is removed from
the repair area. Fire or hazardous conditions, can
result.
Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use when
welding.
Disconnect the negative (-) cable clamp from the
battery when servicing electrical components that
are live when the ignition is OFF. Damage to electri-
cal system can result.
Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
painted surfaces. Damage to finish can result.
Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning solvents
on painted or upholstered surfaces. Damage to fin-
ish or color can result.
Do not hammer or pound on plastic trim panel
when servicing interior trim. Plastic panels can
break.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
RSBODY23-1
ProCarManuals.com

enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair theleak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
23 - 2 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR
There are many different types of plastics used in
today's automotive environment. We group plastics in
three different categories: Rigid, Semi-Rigid, and
Flexible. Any of these plastics may require the use of
an adhesion promoter for repair. These types of plas-
tic are used extensively on DaimlerChrysler Motors
vehicles. Always follow repair material manufactur-
er's plastic identification and repair procedures.
Rigid Plastics:
Examples of rigid plastic use: Fascias, Hoods,
Doors, and other Body Panels, which include SMC,
ABS, and Polycarbonates.
Semi-Rigid Plastics:
Examples of semi-rigid plastic use: Interior Panels,
Under Hood Panels, and other Body Trim Panels.
Flexible Plastics:
Examples of flexible plastic use: Fascias, Body
Moldings, and upper and lower Fascia Covers.
Repair Procedure:
The repair procedure for all three categories of
plastics is basically the same. The one difference is
the material used for the repair. The materials must
be specific for each substrate, rigid repair material
for rigid plastic repair, semi-rigid repair material for
semi-rigid plastic repair and flexible repair material
for flexible plastic repair.
Adhesion Promoter/Surface Modifier:
Adhesion Promoters/Surface Modifiers are required
for certain plastics. All three categories may have
plastics that require the use of adhesion promoter/
surface modifiers. Always follow repair material man-
ufacturer's plastic identification and repair
procedures.
SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING:
²EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN
SERVICING COMPONENTS. PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²USE AN OSHA APPROVED BREATHING MASK
WHEN MIXING EPOXY, GRINDING, AND SPRAYING
PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CONFINED AREA. PER-
SONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH
RESIN, PETROLEUM, OR ALCOHOL BASED SOL-
VENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHI-
CLE THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON
SAFETY STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
NOTE:
²When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components
and electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds
on undamaged painted surfaces around repair
areas. Damage to finish can result.
RSBODY23-3
BODY (Continued)
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RIGID, SEMI-RIGID, AND FLEXIBLE PLASTIC PARTS TYPES
CODE FAMILY NAME COMMON TRADE NAME TYPICAL APPLICATION
ASA ACRYLONITRILE STYRENE
ACRYLITELURAN S CONSOLES, GRILLES
ABS ACRYLONITRILE
BUTADIENE STYRENETERLURAN9A9PILLARS, CONSOLES,
GRILLES
ABS/PC ABS/PC ALLOY PULSE, PROLOY,
BAYBLENDDOORS, INSTRUMENT
PANELS
ABS/PVC ABS/PV ALLOY PROLOY, PULSE, LUSTRAN,
CYCLOVINDOOR PANELS, GRILLES,
TRIM
BMC BULK MOLDING
COMPOUNDBMC FENDER EXTENSIONS
EMA EHTYLENE METHYL
ACRYLATE/IONOMERSURLYN, EMA, IONOMER BUMPER GUARDS, PADS
METTON METTON METTON GRILLES, KICK PANELS,
RUNNING BOARDS
MPPO MODIFIED
POLYPHENYLENE OXIDEMPPO SPOILER ASSEMBLY
PA POLYAMID ZYTEL, VYDYNE, PA,
MINLONFENDERS, QUARTER PANELS
PET THERMOPLASTIC
POLYESTERRYNITE TRIM
PBT/PPO PBT/PPO ALLOY GERMAX CLADDINGS
PBTP POLYBUTYLENE
THEREPTHALATEPBT, PBTP, POCAN, VALOX WHEEL COVERS, FENDERS,
GRILLES
PBTP/EEBC POLYBUTYLENE
THEREPTHALATE/EEBC
ALLOYBEXLOY,9M9, PBTP/EEBC FASCIAS, ROCKER PANEL,
MOLDINGS
PC POLYCARBONATE LEXAN, MERLON, CALIBRE,
MAKROLON PCTAIL LIGHT LENSES, IP TRIM,
VALANCE PANELS
PC/ABS PC/ABS ALLOY GERMAX, BAY BLENDS,
PULSEDOORS, INSTRUMENT
PANELS
PPO POLYPHENYLENE OXIDE AZDEL, HOSTALEN,
MARLEX, PRFAX, NORYL,
GTX, PPOINTERIOR TRIM, DOOR
PANELS, SPLASH SHIELDS,
STEERING COLUMN SHROUD
PPO/PA POLYPHENYLENE/
POLYAMIDPPO/PA, GTX 910 FENDERS, QUARTER PANELS
PR/FV FIBERGLASS REINFORCED
PLASTICFIBERGLASS, FV, PR/FV BODY PANELS
PS POLYSTYRENE LUSTREX, STYRON, PS DOOR PANELS, DASH
PANELS
RTM RESIN TRANSFER
MOLDING COMPOUNDRTM BODY PANELS
SMC SHEET MOLDED
COMPOUNDSMC BODY PANELS
TMC TRANSFER MOLDING
COMPOUNDTMC GRILLES
23 - 4 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)
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CODE FAMILY NAME COMMON TRADE NAME TYPICAL APPLICATION
UP UNSATURATED
POLYESTER
(THERMOSETTING)SMC, BMC, TMC, ZMC, IMC,
XSMC, UPGRILLE OPENING PANEL,
LIFTGATES, FLARESIDE
FENDERS, FENDER
EXTENSIONS
EEBC ETHER/ESTER BLOCKED
CO-POLYMEREEBC BUMPERS
EEBC/PBTP EEBC/POLYBUTYLENE
TEREPTHALATEEEBC, PBTP, BEXLOY BUMPER, ROCKER PANELS
EMPP ETHYLENE MODIFIED
POLYPROPYLENEEMPP BUMPER COVERS
EPDM ETHYLENE/
PROPROPYLENE DIENE
MONOMEREPDM, NORDEL, VISTALON BUMPERS
EPM ETHYLENE/
PROPROPYLENE CO-
POLYMEREPM FENDERS
MPU FOAM POLYURETHANE MPU SPOILERS
PE POLYETHYLENE ALATHON, DYLAN,
LUPOLEN, MARLEX-
PP POLYPROPYLENE
(BLENDS)NORYL, AZDEL, MARLOX,
DYLON, PRAVEXINNER FENDER, SPOILERS,
KICK PANELS
PP/EPDM PP/EPDM ALLOY PP/EPDM SPOILERS, GRILLES
PUR POLYURETHANE COLONELS, PUR, PU FASCIAS, BUMPERS
PUR/PC PUR/PC ALLOY TEXIN BUMPERS
PVC POLYVINYL CHLORIDE APEX, GEON, VINYLITE BODY MOLDINGS, WIRE
INSULATION, STEERING
WHEELS
RIM REACTION INJECTED
MOLDED POLYURETHANERIM, BAYFLEX FRONT FASCIAS, MODULAR
WINDOWS
RRIM REINFORCED REACTION
INJECTED MOLDEDPUR, RRIM FASCIAS, BODY PANELS,
BODY TRIMS
TPE THERMO POLYETHYLENE TPE, HYTREL, BEXLOY-V FASCIAS, BUMPERS,
CLADDINGS
TPO THERMOPOLYOLEFIN POLYTROPE, RENFLEX,
SANTOPRENE, VISAFLEX,
ETA, APEX, TPO, SHIELDS,
CLADDINGSBUMPERS, END CAPS,
TELCAR, RUBBER, STRIPS,
SIGHT, INTERIOR B POST
TPP THERMO-
POLYPROPYLENETPP BUMPERS
TPU THERMOPOLYURETHANE,
POLYESTERTPU, HYTREL, TEXIN,
ESTANEBUMPERS, BODY SIDE,
MOLDINGS, FENDERS,
FASCIAS
RSBODY23-5
BODY (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

PANEL SECTIONING
If it is required to section a large panel for a plas-
tic repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the panel
(Fig. 1). To bond two plastic panels together, a rein-
forcement must overlap both panels. The panels
must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The area to be
reinforced should be washed, then sanded. Be sure to
wipe off any excess soap and water when finished.
Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an abrasive
pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with compressed
air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding plastic panels, Follow repair mate-
rial manufacturers recommendations. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had time
to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the final
adhesive filler to the area being repaired. Smooth the
filler with a spreader, wooden tongue depressor, or
squeegee. For fine texturing, a small amount of
water can be applied to the filler surface while
smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as neces-
sary and, as a final step, cleanup can be done with
soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry cloth
allowing time for the panel to dry before moving on
with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels with
large cracks and holes will require a reinforcement
backing. Reinforcements can be made with several
applications of glass cloth saturated with structural
adhesive. Semi-rigid or flexible repair materials
should be used for semi-rigid or flexible backing rein-
forcement (Fig. 2) and (Fig. 3). Open meshed fiber-
glass dry wall tape can be used to form a
reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin to
penetrate through and make a good bond between
the panel and the adhesive. Structurally, the more
dry wall tape used, the stronger the repair.
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair
large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of sim-
ilar plastic and bond with structural adhesive. The
reinforcement should cover the entire break and
should have a generous amount of overlap on either
side of the cracked or broken area.
When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first
ªV'dº out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desir-
able when repairing plastic because small repairs are
less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area
around a crack at a 20 degree angle will increase the
bonding surface for a repair (Fig. 4). It is recom-
mended that sharp edges be avoided because the
joint may show through after the panel is refinished.
Fig. 1 PANEL SECTIONING
1 - EXISTING PANEL
2 - NEW PANEL
3 - PANEL ADHESIVE
4 - BONDING STRIP
Fig. 2 SOFTENED EDGES
1 - SOFTENED EDGES
2 - PANEL ADHESIVE
3 - BONDING STRIP
Fig. 3 PANEL REINFORCEMENT
1 - PANEL ADHESIVE
2 - REINFORCEMENT
23 - 6 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)
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²Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels
are basically the same. The primary difference
between flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair
is in the adhesive materials used (Fig. 5).
²The technician should first decide what needs to
be done when working on any type of body panel.
One should determine if it is possible to return the
damage part to its original strength and appearance
without exceeding the value of the replacement part.
²When plastic repairs are required, it is recom-
mended that the part be left on the vehicle when
every possible. That will save time, and the panel
will remain stationary during the repair. Misalign-
ment can cause stress in the repair areas and can
result in future failure.
VISUAL INSPECTION
Composite materials can mask the severity of an
accident. Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of
the doors, and steel structures need to be inspected
carefully to get a true damage assessment. Close
inspection may require partial removal of interior
trim or inner panels.
Identify the type of repair: Puncture or Crack -
Damage that has penetrated completely through the
panel. Damage is confined to one general area; a
panel section is not required. However, a backer
panel, open fiberglass tape, or matted material must
be bonded from behind (Fig. 7) (Fig. 6).
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or
crushed, the damaged area must be removed from
the panel to achieve a successful repair. All spider
web cracks leading away from a damaged area must
be stopped or removed. To stop a running crack in a
panel, drilla6mm(0.250 in.) hole at the end of the
crack farthest away from the damage. If spider web
cracks can not be stopped, the panel would require
replacement. The surfaces around the damaged area
should be stripped of paint and freed from wax and
oil. Scuff surfaces around repair area with 360 grit
wet/dry sandpaper, or equivalent, to assure adhesion
of repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
An panel that has extensive puncture type damage
can be repaired by cutting out the damaged material
(Fig. 7). Use a suitable reciprocating saw or cut off
wheel to remove the section of the panel that is dam-
aged. The piece cut out can be used as a template to
shape the new patch. It is not necessary to have
access to the back of the panel to install a patch.
Bevel edges of cutout at 20 degrees to expose a larger
bonding area on the outer side. This will allow for an
increased reinforcement areas.
Fig. 4 BEVELING ANGLE - 20 DEGREE
Fig. 5 FIBERGLASS TAPE
Fig. 6 DAMAGE COMPONENT
1 - PUNCTURE
RSBODY23-7
BODY (Continued)
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