tow DODGE DURANGO 1998 1.G Workshop Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHARTÐCYLINDER HEADS: TABLE 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to front)1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design
with eight counterweights for balancing purposes.
The crankshaft is supported by five select main bear-
ings with the number three serving as the thrust
washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft
are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication.
The number eight counterweight has provisions for
crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting.
The select fit main bearing markings are located on
the rear side of the target wheel. The crankshaft oil
seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is
retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal
is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block
and the bedplate assembly.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con-
necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink
or a scratch awl.
EARLY BUILD
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum
alloy with an anodized top ring groove and crown. Piston
skirts are coated with a solid lubricant (Molykote) to
reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The connect-
ing rods are made of forged powdered metal, with a
ªfractured capº design. A pressed fit piston pin is used to
attach the piston and connecting rod.
LATE BUILD
The pistons are made of high strength aluminum
alloy. The top ring groove and crown areNotanod-
ized, instead the top ring is coated with an anti-scuff
coating to reduce friction on the top ring. The piston
skirts are coated with a solid lubricant (Molykote) to
reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The con-
necting rods are made of forged powdered metal,
with a ªfractured capº design. A pressed fit piston pin
is used to attach the piston and connecting rod.
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy.
The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder
with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The
cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing
chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin-
der heads.
VALVE GUIDES
DESCRIPTION
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
VALVES
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each
valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots
on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three
bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote
valve rotation.
VALVE STEM SEAL
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals are made of rubber and incor-
porate an integral steel valve spring seat. The inte-
gral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication
control to the valve stems.
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
2000 DN Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-0016
TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 3) and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb IdleÐ25 Kpa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpmÐ170 - 550 KPa (25 - 80 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Eachhave different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
Fig. 3 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
1 ± BELT
2 ± OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 ± OIL FILTER
4 ± ELEC. CONNECTOR
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 9).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 8 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 18 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine PISTON RINGSÐFITTING
RING END GAP
Before reinstalling used rings or installing new
rings, the ring clearances must be checked.
(1) Wipe the cylinder bore clean.
(2) Insert the ring in the cylinder bore.
NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made
with the ring positioned at least 12mm (0.50 inch.)
from bottom of cylinder bore.
(3) Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is
squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward
into the cylinder.
(4) Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap
(Fig. 20). Replace any rings not within specification.
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE
NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean
and free of nicks and burrs.
(5) Measure the ring side clearance as shown (Fig.
21) make sure the feeler gauge fits snugly between
the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not
within specification.
(6) Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring
must rotate in the groove with out binding.
EARLY BUILD
(7) The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a differ-
ent cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with
manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top
of the piston.
LATE BUILD
The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different
cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with
manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top
of the piston. On late build engines the piston top
ring groove and crown are not anodized therefore,
the No. 1 piston ring is coated with an anti-friction
coating. Care must be used to ensure that wheninstalling piston rings on late build engines that the
correct No. 1 piston ring be installed, failure to use
the correct piston ring can cause severe damage to
the piston and/or cylinder block.
Fig. 20 Ring End Gap MeasurementÐTypical
1 ± FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 21 Measuring Piston Ring Side Clearance
1 ± FEELER GAUGE
PISTON RING SPECIFICATION CHART
Ring Position Groove Maximum
Clearance Clearance
Upper Ring .051-.094mm 0.11mm
(0.0020-.0037
in.)(0.004 in.)
Intermediate
Ring0.04-0.08mm 0.10mm
(0.0016-0.0031
in.)(0.004 in.)
Oil Control Ring .019-.229mm .25mm
(Steel Rails) (.0007-.0090 in.) (0.010 in.)
Ring Position Ring Gap Wear Limit
Upper Ring 0.20-0.36mm 0.40mm
(0.008-0.014 in.) (0.0016in.)
Intermediate
Ring0.37-0.63mm 0.71mm
(0.014-0.025 in.) (0.028in.)
Oil Control Ring 0.025-0.76mm 1.52mm
(Steel Rail) (0.010- 0.030
in.)(0.060in.)
9 - 24 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
2000 DN Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-0016
TSB 26-12-99 December, 1999

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 29). Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.Plas-
tigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If the
clearance varies, it may be caused by either a
tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign
material trapped between the insert and cap or
rod.
(7) If the correct clearance is indicated, replace-
ment of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove
the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing
insert. Proceed with installation.
(8) If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the
specification, determin which services bearing set to
use the bearing sizes are as follows:
Fig. 25 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
1 ± UPPER BEARING HALF
2 ± MATING EDGES
3 ± GROOVES CAUSED BY ROD BOLTS SCRATCHING
JOURNAL DURING INSTALLATION
4 ± WEAR PATTERN Ð ALWAYS GREATER ON UPPER
BEARING
5 ± LOWER BEARING HALF
Fig. 26 Locking Tab Inspection
1 ± ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 27 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or by Damaged Crankshaft Pin Journal
Fig. 28 Piston and Connecting RodÐInstallation
1 ± ªFº TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
2 ± OIL SLINGER SLOT
3 ± RING COMPRESSOR
4 ± SPECIAL TOOL 8507
9 - 26 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components: Refer to FUEL SYSTEM for compo-
nent locations.
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster
hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(6) Disconnect generator electrical connections.
(7) Disconnect air conditioning compressor electri-
cal connections.
(8) Disconnect left and right radio suppressor
straps.
(9) Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
(10) Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt
and ground strap.
(11) Bleed fuel system. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(12) Remove fuel rail.
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold (Fig. 50).
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor. Refer to
FUEL SYSTEM.
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence (Fig. 51).
(19) Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Install intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in (Fig. 51) to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail.
(9) Install ignition coil towers.
Fig. 48 Body Ground StrapÐRight Side Removal /
Installation
1 ± NUT
2 ± A/C ACCUMULATOR
3 ± GROUND STRAP
Fig. 49 Body Ground StrapÐLeft Side Removal /
Installation
1 ± NUT
2 ± GROUND STRAP
3 ± BRAKE BOOSTER
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 35
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (10) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(11) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.(12) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(13) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(14) Connect generator electrical connections.
(15) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Fill cooling system.
(17) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM.
(4) Remove A/C compressor from mounting and set
aside.
(5) Remove A/C accumulator support bracket fas-
tener.
(6) Drain coolant below heater hose level. Refer to
COOLING SYSTEM.
(7) Remove heater hoses at engine.
(8) Remove fasteners attaching exhaust manifold
heat shield.
(9) Remove heat shield.
(10) Remove upper exhaust manifold attaching fas-
teners.
(11) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(12) Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
(13) Remove fasteners attaching starter. Move
starter aside.
(14) Remove lower exhaust manifold attaching fas-
teners.
(15) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig.
52). Manifold is removed from below the engine com-
partment.
Fig. 50 Heater Hoses and Tubes Removal /
Installation
1 ± HEATER HOSES AND TUBES
2 ± ROUTING/RETAINING CLIPS
Fig. 51 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
9 - 36 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the
bedplate and oil pan.
(2) Position the oil pan gasket and pickup tube
with new o-ring. Install the mounting bolt and nuts.
Tighten bolt and nuts to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position the oil pan and install the mounting
bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15 N´m (11 ft.
lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 110).
(4) Install structural dust cover.
(5) Install oil filter.
(6) Install front axle. Refer to DIFFERENTIAL
AND DRIVELINE.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Fill engine oil.
(9) Start engine check for leaks.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the following components: (Refer to
procedures in this section)
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray.
²Cylinder head covers.
²Timing chain cover.
²Cylinder head(s).
(3) If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores
with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons
from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops of pis-
tons covered during this operation.Pistons and
connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder
block. When removing piston and connecting rod
assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the
each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch
to mark connecting rods or caps, as damage to
connecting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not
interchangeable and should be marked before
removing to ensure correct reassembly.
(4) Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions
using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool (Fig.
111).
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine
damage may occur.
(5) Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool
8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod
being removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore.
Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed.CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crank-
shaft journals, as engine damage may occur
(6) Immediately after piston and connecting rod
removal, install bearing cap on the mating connect-
ing rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and
rod surfaces.
(7) Carefully remove piston rings from piston(s),
starting from the top ring down.
PISTON RINGSÐINSTALLATION
(1) The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a differ-
ent cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with
manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top
of the piston.
NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following
order:
²Oil ring expander.
²Upper oil ring side rail.
²Lower oil ring side rail.
²No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
²No. 1 Upper piston ring.
(2) Install the oil ring expander.
(3) Install upper side rail (Fig. 112) by placing one
end between the piston ring groove and the expander
ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to
be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this
step for the lower side rail.
(4) Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a
piston ring installer (Fig. 113).
(5) Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston
ring installer (Fig. 113).
(6) Position piston ring end gaps as shown in (Fig.
114). It is important that expander ring gap is at
least 45É from the side rail gaps, but not on the pis-
ton pin center or on the thrust direction.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing piston and connecting rod
assemblies in to the bore, ensure all rings are in
position shown in (Fig. 114).
Fig. 111 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
PositionÐTypical
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 65
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure posi-
tion of rings do not change during this opera-
tion.
(3) Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure
that hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connect-
ing rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine
oil.
(4) Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod
Guides into connecting rod bolt threads (Fig. 115).
(5) The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore
surface with an raised ªFº indicating installation
position. This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connect-
ing rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine
(Fig. 116).
(6) Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with
engine oil.
Fig. 112 Side RailÐInstallation
1 ± SIDE RAIL END
Fig. 113 Upper and Intermediate RingsÐInstallation
Fig. 114 Piston Ring End Gap Position
1 ± SIDE RAIL UPPER
2 ± NO. 1 RING GAP
3 ± PISTON PIN
4 ± SIDE RAIL LOWER
5 ± NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
Fig. 115 Piston and Connecting RodÐInstallation
1 ± ªFº TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
2 ± OIL SLINGER SLOT
3 ± RING COMPRESSOR
4 ± SPECIAL TOOL 8507
9 - 66 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abra-
sive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or con-
necting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this
coating must not be damaged.
(1) Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pis-
tons in warm water and towel dry.
(2) Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring
land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the
piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the crankshaft connecting rod journal for
excessive wear, taper and scoring.
Check the pistons for taper and elliptical shape
before they are fitted into the cylinder bore.
Replace any piston and connecting rod not meeting
the specifications.
OIL PAN
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
(2) Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends
or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
OIL PUMP
CLEANING
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and
spring should not be removed from the oil pump. If
the these components are disassembled andùr
removed from the pump the entire oil pump assem-
bly must be replaced.(1) Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of
the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump
cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly
should be replaced.
(2) Lay a straight edge across the pump cover sur-
face (Fig. 137). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge
can be inserted between the cover and the straight
edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
(3) Measure the thickness of the outer rotor (Fig.
138). If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.400 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(4) Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the
outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (0.400
in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
(5) Measure the thickness of the inner rotor (Fig.
139). If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.400 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly
must be replaced.
(6) Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump.
Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and
the body (Fig. 140). If the measurement is 0.47mm
(0.0186 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(7) Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump
body. Measure the clearance between the inner and
outer rotors (Fig. 141). If the clearance between the
rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump
assembly must be replaced.
(8) Place a straight edge across the body of the oil
pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of
.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted
between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump
must be replaced (Fig. 142).
NOTE: 4.7 Oil pump is released as an assembly.
There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for Sub-
Assembly components. In the event the oil pump is
not functioning or out of specification it must be
replaced as an assembly.
CYLINDER BLOCK
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
9 - 76 4.7L ENGINEDN
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)