One DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

Page 365 of 2627

(9) Install support rod.
(10) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH-
GAS ENGINES
DESCRIPTION
The thermal viscous fan drive (Fig. 31) is a sili-
cone-fluid- filled coupling used to connect the fan
blades to the water pump shaft. The coupling allows
the fan to be driven in a normal manner. This is
done at low engine speeds while limiting the top
speed of the fan to a predetermined maximum level
at higher engine speeds.
OPERATION
A thermostatic bimetallic spring coil is located on
the front face of the viscous fan drive unit (a typical
viscous unit is shown in (Fig. 32). This spring coilreacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge
air. It engages the viscous fan drive for higher fan
speed if the air temperature from the radiator rises
above a certain point. Until additional engine cooling
is necessary, the fan will remain at a reduced rpm
regardless of engine speed.
Only when sufficient heat is present, will the vis-
cous fan drive engage. This is when the air flowing
through the radiator core causes a reaction to the
bimetallic coil. It then increases fan speed to provide
the necessary additional engine cooling.
Once the engine has cooled, the radiator discharge
temperature will drop. The bimetallic coil again
reacts and the fan speed is reduced to the previous
disengaged speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VISCOUS FAN
DRIVE
NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²The underhood temperature is above the engage-
ment point for the viscous drive coupling. This may
occur when ambient (outside air temperature) is very
high.
Fig. 30 Thermostat - 8.0L V-10 Engine
1 - COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR (FOR PCM)
2 - HEATER SUPPLY FITTING
3 - BOLTS (6)
4 - HOUSING WITH INTEGRAL SEAL
5 - THERMOSTAT
6 - RUBBER LIP SEAL
7 - TEMP. GAUGE SENDING UNIT
Fig. 31 Viscous Fan
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
5 - Bolts (4)
7 - 50 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 8.0L (Continued)

Page 366 of 2627

²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is
being redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
VISCOUS DRIVE
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against exces-
sively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE
FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the
top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem
(or equivalent). It should have a range of -18É-to-
105ÉC (0É-to-220É F). Insert thermometer through the
hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate
clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition
timing light. The timing light is to be used as a
strobe light. This step cannot be used on the diesel
engine.(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure
a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator. Use tape at
the top to secure the plastic and be sure that the air
flow is blocked.
(5) Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped)
and blowe fan is turned off.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(6) Start the engine and operate at 2400 rpm.
Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on
the dial thermometer) should be up to 88É C (190É F).
Fan driveengagementshould start to occur at/be-
tween:
²3.7L Automatic - 93É C - 99ÉC (200É F - 210É F)
²3.7L Manual/4.7L Automatic/5.9L - 85É - 91É C
(185É - 195É F)
²4.7L Manual - 74É - 79É C (165É - 175É F)
²5.7L
²5.9L
²Engagement is distinguishable by a definite
increasein fan flow noise (roaring). The timing light
also will indicate an increase in the speed of the fan.
(7) When viscous drive engagement is verified,
remove the plastic sheet. Fan drivedisengagement
should start to occur at or between:
²3.7L Automatic - 76ÉC - 81ÉC (168É F - 178É F)
²3.7L Manual/4.7L Auto/ 5.9L - 67ÉC - 73ÉC (153É
F - 163É F)
²4.7L Manual - 56ÉC - 62ÉC (133É F - 143É F)
²5.7L
²5.9L
²8.0L engine - 93É to 101É C (190É - 205É F) Min-
imum 73ÉC (163ÉF). A definitedecreaseof fan flow
noise (roaring) should be noticed. If not, replace the
defective viscous fan drive unit.
CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
Fig. 32 Viscous Fan Drive - Typical
1 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
2 - THERMOSTATIC SPRING
3 - MOUNTING NUT TO WATER PUMP HUB
DRENGINE 7 - 51
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH-GAS ENGINES (Continued)

Page 367 of 2627

CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH
- 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The electronically controlled viscous fan drive (Fig.
34) and (Fig. 33)is attached to the fan drive pulley
mounted to the engine. The coupling allows the fan
to be driven in a normal manner. The fan speed is
controlled by the electronic control module.
OPERATION
The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the
level of engagement of the electronically controlled
viscous fan clutch by monitoring coolant tempera-
ture, intake manifold temperature, and air condition-
ing status. Based on cooling requirements, the ECMsends a signal to the viscous fan clutch to increase or
decrease the fan speed.
Fan speed is monitored by the ECM. Fan speeds
above or below a calibrated threshold will set a DTC.
Circuit concerns will also set fan clutch DTC's.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ELECTRONICALLY
CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roar-
ing) when:
²Fan duty cycle high. This may occur when ambi-
ent (outside air temperature) is very high.
²Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
²Aggressive engine braking down a steep grade
where transmission temperatures may be high
²Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is
being redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
Fig. 33 Electronically Controlled Viscous Drive
1 - ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
2 - MOUNTING NUT
3 - WIRING SUPPORT BRACKET
4 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 34 Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive - 5.9L Diesel
Engine
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
3 - FAN BLADE
4 - BOLT (6)
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY
7 - 52 ENGINEDR
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH-GAS ENGINES (Continued)

Page 368 of 2627

LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS DRIVE
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), do not replace the fan drive. This
spin test must be performed when the engine is cool.
If the fan assembly does not free-wheel and a
metallic grinding sound exists, replace the electroni-
cally controlled fan drive (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The following test may take up to 15 minutes
to perform.
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature.
(1) Set the parking brake and verify the transmis-
sion is in park or neutral.
(2) Set air conditioner (if equipped) and blower fan
to OFF.
(3) Start and allow engine to reach normal operat-
ing temperatures.
(4) Stop engine, connect the DRB III and select
appropriate model year and engine option.
(5) Check for and correct existing DTC's
(6) Using Tool 6801, connect pin 1 of the electron-
ically controlled viscous fan drive connector, located
at the lower fan shroud to battery ground (Fig. 35).
(7) Using the DRB III, verify that DTC 0480 set.
(8) Start the engine.
(9) Go to the SENSOR screen and observe the fan
speed.
(10) Run the engine at 2500 rpm.
NOTE: It maybe take 15 minutes before fan speed
increases.
(11) The fan speed should increase according to
the table below.
(12) If fan speed does not increase, replace the
electronically control viscous fan drive.
ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN
DRIVE SPEEDS
ENGINE RPM FAN RPM(Min)
500 490
1000 950
1500 1420
2000 1850
2500 2230
3000 2440
(13) If the fan speed does increase and there is
still a concern, refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnosis Manual to diagnosis the electronically con-
trolled viscous fan drive control circuit.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks or chips that could result in excessive vibra-
tion. Replace fan blade assembly if any of these
conditions are found.
Fig. 35 Electronically Controlled Viscous Fan Drive
Connector
1 - ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
CONNECTOR
2 - TOOL 6801
3 - PIN 1
DRENGINE 7 - 53
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

Page 370 of 2627

(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 37).
(12) Lift the radiator straight up and out of the
engine compartment. Take care not to damage cool-
ing fins or tubes on the radiator and oil coolers when
removing.
NOTE: The radiator is equipped with one alignment
dowel on the bottom of the outlet tank and one
retaining bracket on the front side of the inlet tank.
Both features have rubber insulators attached to
them that must be present. The alignment dowel fits
into a hole at the bottom of the front end sheet
metal vertical support post and the support bracket
rests on top of the lower radiator closure tube.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, and bro-
ken or missing fittings. Inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fan shroud over the fan blades
rearward towards engine.
(2) Install the rubber insulators to the lower radi-
ator mounting features (alignment dowel and support
bracket at the lower part of the radiator).
(3) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the alignment dowel into the vertical post bracket.
Position and seat the lower radiator support bracket
onto the lower radiator closure tube.
(4) Install the upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the lower radiator hose and install the
clamp in the proper position.
(6) Connect the power steering hoses to the power
steering oil cooler and install the clamps.
(7) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the
transmission oil cooler and install the secondary
latches.
(8) Position the fan shroud into the mounting clips
on the radiator tanks and secure with bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(9) Secure the power steering hoses into the clip
on the lower fan shroud.
(10) Install the windshield washer reservoir tank
and connect the hose and electrical connector.
(11) Install coolant reserve/overflow container
hose(s) to radiator filler neck and secure properly
with clamps.
(12) Install coolant reserve/overflow container or
degas container to fan shroud and tighten the bolts
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(13) Connect upper radiator hose and install
clamp.
(14) Install battery negative cable.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Check cooling system fluid
levels.
Fig. 37 Radiator
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 55
RADIATOR-3.7L/4.7L/5.7L (Continued)

Page 373 of 2627

loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 97-to-
124 kPa (14-to-18 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in the cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve
to open and coolant in the reserve/overflow container
to be drawn through the recovery hose connecting
the filler neck and reserve/overflow container. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or the recovery hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
the radiator filler neck tube. Attach the hose of the
pressure tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to the tube.
It will be necessary to disconnect hose from its
adapter for the filler neck. Pump air into radiator.
The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69
to 124kPa (10 to 18 psi) and hold pressure at a min-
imum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS, ºDO NOT OPEN
HOTº, ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove the radiator cap at any timeexcept
for the following purposes:
²Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
²Refill the system with new antifreeze.
²Conducting service procedures.
²Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
Remove the cap from the radiator. Be sure that the
sealing surfaces are clean. Moisten the rubber gasket
with water and install the cap on the pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent (Fig. 41).
Operate the tester pump to bring the pressure to
104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap
fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi)
replace the cap. Refer to the followingCAUTION.
Fig. 40 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
7 - 58 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

Page 374 of 2627

The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 42) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary.
Both heater hoses are connected to fittings on the
timing chain front cover. The water pump is also
mounted directly to the timing chain cover and is
equipped with a non serviceable integral pulley (Fig.
43).
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP BYPASS
The 3.7L and 4.7L engine uses an internal water/
coolant bypass system. The design uses galleries in
the timing chain cover to circulate coolant during
Fig. 41 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 42 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

Page 376 of 2627

(5) Remove the radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove accessory drive belt (Fig. 46) (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the lower radiator hose clamp and
remove the lower hose at the water pump.
(8) Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain
case/cover. The machined surfaces may be dam-
aged resulting in leaks.
(9) Remove the water pump and gasket. Discard
gasket.
CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not
to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the
housing, water leaks from shaft seal, worn bearing or
impeller rubbing either the pump body or timing
chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
The water pump on 3.7L/4.7L engine is bolted
directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
(1) Clean the gasket mating surfaces.(2) Using a new gasket, position water pump and
install the mounting bolts. (Fig. 47). Tighten the
water pump mounting bolts to 58 N´m (43 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 45 Viscous Fan and Fan Drive 4.7L Engine
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER
PINS 8346
2-FAN
Fig. 46 Automatic Belt TensionerÐ4.7L
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
2 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
Fig. 47 Water Pump InstallationÐ3.7L/4.7L Typical
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
DRENGINE 7 - 61
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L (Continued)

Page 377 of 2627

(3) Spin the water pump to be sure that the pump
impeller does not rub against the timing chain case/
cover.
(4) Connect the radiator lower hose to the water
pump.
(5) Relax the tension from the belt tensioner (Fig.
46). Install the drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 48) for
the correct belt routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing
Label located in the engine compartment. The cor-
rect belt with correct length must be used.
(6) Install the radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(7) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Connect the negative battery cable.
(9) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.WATER PUMP - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The water pump is mounted to the front of the
engine block between the automatic belt tensioner
and the fan drive pulley.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in a bearing pressed into the
water pump body. The body has a small hole for ven-
tilation. The water pump seals are lubricated by
antifreeze in the coolant mixture. Additional lubrica-
tion is not necessary.
OPERATION
The diesel engine water pump draws coolant from
the radiator outlet and circulates it through engine,
heater core and back to radiator inlet. The crank-
shaft pulley drives the water pump with a serpentine
drive belt.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove water pump mounting bolts (Fig. 49).
(5) Clean water pump sealing surface on cylinder
block.
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the water pump and replace if it
has any of the following conditions:
²The body is cracked or damaged
²Water leaks from the shaft seal. This is evident
by traces of coolant below the vent hole
²Loose or rough turning bearing.
²Impeller rubbing the pump body
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring seal in groove on water
pump (Fig. 50).
(2) Install water pump with the weep hole facing
downward. Tighten mounting bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft.
lbs.) torque.
Fig. 48 Belt Routing 3.7L
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
7 - 62 ENGINEDR
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L (Continued)

Page 378 of 2627

(3) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(4) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Connect both battery cables.
(6) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
WATER PUMP - 5.7L
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Drain coolant.
(3) Remove serpentine belt.
(4) Remove fan clutch assembly.
(5) Remove coolant fill bottle.
(6) Disconnect washer bottle wiring and hose.
(7) Remove fan shroud assembly.
(8) Remove A/C compressor and generator brace.
(9) Remove idler pulleys.
(10) Remove belt tensioner assembly.
(11) Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.
(12) Remove heater hoses.
(13) Remove water pump mounting bolts and
remove pump.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install water pump and mounting bolts.
Tighten moubting bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install heater hoses.
(3) Install upper and lower radiator hoses.
(4) Install belt tensioner assembly.
(5) Install idler pulleys.
(6) Install A/C compressor and alternator brace.
Tighten bolt and nuts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install fan shroud assembly.
(8) Connect washer bottle wiring and hose.
(9) Install coolant fill bottle.
(10) Install fan clutch assembly.
(11) Install serpentine belt.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Fill coolant.
(14) Pressure test coolant system
WATER PUMP - 8.0L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
Fig. 49 Water Pump Removal/Installation
1 - O-RING SEAL (SQUARE)
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - BOLT (2)
Fig. 50 Pump O-ring Seal
1 - O-RING SEAL
2 - GROOVE
3 - WATER PUMP
DRENGINE 7 - 63
WATER PUMP - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

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