jack DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G User Guide

engine warm-up preventing the coolant from flowing
through the radiator (Fig. 44).
OPERATION
OPERATIONÐWATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core,
this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the
engine is running. The pump is driven by the engine
crankshaft via a drive belt.
OPERATION - WATER PUMP BYPASS
When the thermostat is in the closed position the
bypass gallery is not obstructed allowing 100% flow.
When the thermostat is in the open position the pill
partially covers the bypass hole, reducing the amount
of bypass flow. This design allows the coolant to
reach operating temperature quickly when cold,
while adding extra cooling during normal tempera-
ture operation.
REMOVAL
The water pump on 3.7L/4.7L engines is bolted
directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from
water pump (Fig. 45) (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL). Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous
fan drive assembly from vehicle at this time.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter and width.
(4) If the water pump is being replaced, do not
unbolt the fan blade assembly from the thermal vis-
cous fan drive.
Fig. 43 Water Pump and Timing Chain Cover - 4.7L
1 - INTEGRAL WATER PUMP PULLEY
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
3 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
4 - HEATER HOSE FITTINGS
5 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 44 Water/Coolant Bypass Flow and Thermostat
1 - FROM HEATER AND DEGAS CONTAINER
2 - FROM RADIATOR
3 - TO WATER PUMP
4- THERMOSTAT
7 - 60 ENGINEDR
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L (Continued)

(6) Remove the battery hold down retaining bolt.
WARNING: WEAR A SUITABLE PAIR OF RUBBER
GLOVES (NOT THE HOUSEHOLD TYPE) WHEN
REMOVING A BATTERY BY HAND. SAFETY
GLASSES SHOULD ALSO BE WORN. IF THE BAT-
TERY IS CRACKED OR LEAKING, THE ELECTRO-
LYTE CAN BURN THE SKIN AND EYES.
(7) Remove the battery from the battery tray.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery.
(2) Position the battery onto the battery tray.
Ensure that the battery positive and negative termi-
nal posts are correctly positioned. The battery cable
terminal clamps must reach the correct battery ter-
minal post without stretching the cables.
(3) Position the battery hold down and install the
retaining bolt.
CAUTION: Be certain that the battery cable terminal
clamps are connected to the correct battery termi-
nal posts. Reversed battery polarity may damage
electrical components of the vehicle.
(4) Clean the battery cable terminal clamps and
the battery terminal posts.
(5) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 4 N´m (35
in. lbs.).
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 4 N´m (35
in. lbs.).
(7) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or chas-
sis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery cable
terminal clamps and the battery terminal posts.
(8) Obtain a DRB IIItscan tool and check the
PCM for any stored battery disconnect trouble code,
if required.
BATTERY HOLDDOWN
DESCRIPTION
The battery hold down hardware includes a bolt
and a molded plastic hold down bracket which
meshes with the battery tray when properly
installed. The battery tray and hold down hardware
combine to form a very stable and secure battery
hold down assembly.
OPERATION
The battery holddown secures the battery in the
battery tray. This holddown is designed to prevent
battery movement during the most extreme vehicle
operation conditions. Periodic removal and lubrica-
tion of the battery holddown hardware is recom-
mended to prevent hardware seizure at a later date.
CAUTION: Never operate a vehicle without a battery
holddown device properly installed. Damage to the
vehicle, components and battery could result.
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen and remove the battery hold down
retaining bolt.
(2) Remove the battery hold down bracket from
the battery case.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery hold down hard-
ware (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM
- CLEANING).
(2) Position the battery hold down bracket in the
battery tray. Be certain that the hold down bracket is
properly positioned in the battery tray before tight-
ening the hold down hardware.
(3) Install and tighten the battery hold down
retaining bolt.
BATTERY CABLES
DESCRIPTION
The battery cables are large gauge, stranded cop-
per wires sheathed within a heavy plastic or syn-
thetic rubber insulating jacket. The wire used in the
battery cables combines excellent flexibility and reli-
ability with high electrical current carrying capacity.
Refer to Wiring for the location of the proper battery
cable wire gauge information.
The battery cables cannot be repaired and, if dam-
aged or faulty they must be replaced. Both the bat-
tery positive and negative cables are available for
service replacement only as a unit with the battery
positive cable wire harness or the battery negative
cable wire harness, which may include portions of
the wiring circuits for the generator and other com-
ponents on some models.
Most models feature a stamped brass clamping
type female battery terminal crimped onto one end of
the battery cable wire and then solder-dipped. A
pinch-bolt and hex nut are installed at the open end
of the female battery terminal clamp. The battery
positive cable also includes a red molded rubber pro-
tective cover for the female battery terminal clamp.
8F - 14 BATTERY SYSTEMDR
BATTERY (Continued)

Large eyelet type terminals are crimped onto the
opposite end of the battery cable wire and then sol-
der-dipped. The battery positive cable wires have a
red insulating jacket to provide visual identification
and feature a larger female battery terminal clamp
to allow connection to the larger battery positive ter-
minal post. The battery negative cable wires have a
black insulating jacket and a smaller female battery
terminal clamp.
OPERATION
The battery cables connect the battery terminal
posts to the vehicle electrical system. These cables
also provide a return path for electrical current gen-
erated by the charging system for restoring the volt-
age potential of the battery. The female battery
terminal clamps on the ends of the battery cable
wires provide a strong and reliable connection of the
battery cable to the battery terminal posts. The ter-
minal pinch bolts allow the female terminal clamps
to be tightened around the male terminal posts on
the top of the battery. The eyelet terminals secured
to the ends of the battery cable wires opposite the
female battery terminal clamps provide secure and
reliable connection of the battery to the vehicle elec-
trical system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BATTERY CABLES
A voltage drop test will determine if there is exces-
sive resistance in the battery cable terminal connec-
tions or the battery cables. If excessive resistance is
found in the battery cable connections, the connec-
tion point should be disassembled, cleaned of all cor-
rosion or foreign material, then reassembled.
Following reassembly, check the voltage drop for the
battery cable connection and the battery cable again
to confirm repair.
When performing the voltage drop test, it is impor-
tant to remember that the voltage drop is giving an
indication of the resistance between the two points at
which the voltmeter probes are attached.EXAM-
PLE:When testing the resistance of the battery pos-
itive cable, touch the voltmeter leads to the battery
positive cable terminal clamp and to the battery pos-
itive cable eyelet terminal at the starter solenoid
B(+) terminal stud. If you probe the battery positive
terminal post and the battery positive cable eyelet
terminal at the starter solenoid B(+) terminal stud,
you are reading the combined voltage drop in the
battery positive cable terminal clamp-to-terminal
post connection and the battery positive cable.
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
WARNING: MODELS EQUIPPED WITH A DIESEL
ENGINE HAVE AN AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN (ASD)RELAY LOCATED IN THE POWER DISTRIBUTION
CENTER (PDC). REMOVAL OF THE ASD RELAY
MAY NOT PREVENT THE DIESEL ENGINE FROM
STARTING. BE CERTAIN TO DISCONNECT THE
FUEL SHUTDOWN SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS
CONNECTOR TO PREVENT THE ENGINE FROM
STARTING. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN
PERSONAL INJURY.
The following operation will require a voltmeter
accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing this
test, be certain that the following procedures are
accomplished:
²The battery is fully-charged and tested (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
²Fully engage the parking brake.
²If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in the
Park position. If the vehicle is equipped with a man-
ual transmission, place the gearshift selector lever in
the Neutral position and block the clutch pedal in the
fully depressed position.
²Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned
off.
²To prevent a gasoline engine from starting,
remove the Automatic ShutDown (ASD) relay. The
ASD relay is located in the Integrated Power Module
(IPM), in the engine compartment. See the fuse and
relay layout label on the underside of the IPM cover
for ASD relay identification and location.
(1) Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to
the battery negative terminal post. Connect the neg-
ative lead of the voltmeter to the battery negative
cable terminal clamp (Fig. 11). Rotate and hold the
ignition switch in the Start position. Observe the
voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct the poor con-
nection between the battery negative cable terminal
clamp and the battery negative terminal post.
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with two 12v bat-
teries, step #1 must be performed twice, once for
each battery.
(2) Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to
the battery positive terminal post. Connect the nega-
tive lead of the voltmeter to the battery positive cable
terminal clamp (Fig. 12). Rotate and hold the ignition
switch in the Start position. Observe the voltmeter. If
voltage is detected, correct the poor connection
between the battery positive cable terminal clamp
and the battery positive terminal post.
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with two 12v bat-
teries, step #2 must be performed twice, once for
each battery.
DRBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 15
BATTERY CABLES (Continued)

DRIVER AIRBAG
DESCRIPTION
The color-keyed, injection molded, thermoplastic
driver airbag protective trim cover is the most visible
part of the driver airbag (Fig. 21). The driver airbag
is located in the center of the steering wheel, where
it is secured with two screws to the armature of the
four-spoke steering wheel. All models have a chrome
Dodge Ram emblem in the center of the trim cover.
Concealed beneath the driver airbag trim cover are
the horn switch, the folded airbag cushion, the airbag
cushion retainer, the airbag housing, the airbag infla-
tor, and the retainers that secure the inflator to the
airbag housing.
The airbag cushion, housing, and inflator are
secured within an integral receptacle molded into the
back of the trim cover. The four vertical walls of this
receptacle have a total of twelve small windows with
blocking tabs that are engaged by twelve hook forma-
tions around the perimeter of the airbag housing.
Each hook is inserted through one of the windows
and the blocking tab in each window keeps the hook
properly engaged with the trim cover, locking the
trim cover securely into place on the airbag housing.
The resistive membrane-type horn switch is
secured with heat stakes to the inside surface of the
driver airbag trim cover, between the trim cover and
the folded airbag cushion. The horn switch ground
pigtail wire has an eyelet terminal connector that is
captured beneath a flanged nut on the upper right
inflator mounting stud on the back of the housing
(Fig. 22). The horn switch feed pigtail wire has a
black, molded plastic insulator that is secured by an
integral retainer in a locator hole near the upper
right corner of the airbag housing and is connected tothe vehicle electrical system through a dedicated
take out and connector of the steering wheel wire
harness. Both horn switch wires are routed through
an integral notch in the center of the upper edge of
the airbag housing stamping.
The airbag used in this model is a multistage, Next
Generation-type that complies with revised federal
airbag standards to deploy with less force than those
used in some prior models. A 71 centimeter (28 inch)
diameter, radial deploying fabric cushion with inter-
nal tethers is used. The airbag inflator is a dual-ini-
tiator, non-azide, pyrotechnic-type unit with four
mounting studs and is secured to the stamped metal
airbag housing by four flanged hex nuts. Two keyed
and color-coded connector receptacles on the driver
airbag inflator connect the two inflator initiators to
the vehicle electrical system through two yellow-jack-
eted, two-wire pigtail harnesses of the clockspring.
The driver airbag unit cannot be repaired, and
must be replaced if deployed or in any way damaged.
The driver airbag trim cover and horn switch unit
may be disassembled from the driver airbag unit,
and is available for separate service replacement.
OPERATION
The multistage driver airbag is deployed by electri-
cal signals generated by the Airbag Control Module
(ACM) through the driver airbag squib 1 and squib 2
circuits to the two initiators in the airbag inflator. By
using two initiators, the airbag can be deployed at
multiple levels of force. The force level is controlled
Fig. 21 Driver Airbag Trim Cover
1 - STEERING WHEEL
2 - TRIM COVER
Fig. 22 Driver Airbag Housing
1 - HORN SWITCH FEED WIRE
2 - HORN SWITCH GROUND WIRE
3 - INFLATOR
4 - TRIM COVER
5 - HOUSING
DRRESTRAINTS 8O - 23

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Leaking valve guide seals. 5. Replace valve guide seals.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
(4) Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN
RELAY - REMOVAL).
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(7) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner hose.
(6) Calibrate the tester according to the manufac-
turer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compres-
sion,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.
9 - 8 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

(12) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(13) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(14) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(15) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove radiator/cooling module assembly.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.
(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick con-
nect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine
removal.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
(27) Remove intake manifold.
(28) Install engine lifting fixture,special tool#8247,
using original fasteners from the removed intake
manifold, and fuel rail. Torque to factory specifica-
tions.
NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate
before removing engine.
(29) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(30) Raise vehicle.
(31) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(32) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(33) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(34) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the front prop-
shaft for access to the starter and left side exhaust
flange.(35) Remove the starter.
(36) Remove the ground straps from the left and
right side of the block.
(37) Disconnect the right and left exhaust pipes at
the manifolds and from the crossover, and remove
from the vehicle.
NOTE: The exhaust clamps at the manifolds cannot
be reused. New clamps must be used or leaks may
occur.
(38) Remove the structural cover.
(39) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(40) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(41) Remove left and right engine mount thru
bolts.
(42) Lower the vehicle.
(43) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(44) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine
lift plate.
(45) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
onto engine.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
(8) Install the starter.
(9) Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Install the engine block heater power cable, if
equipped.
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.
(11) Install the structural cover.
NOTE: New clamps must be used on exhaust man-
ifold flanges. Failure to use new clamps may result
in exhaust leaks.
(12) Install the left and right exhaust pipes.
(13) Connect the left and right oxygen sensors.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Remove the engine lift plate.
(16) Connect the knock sensors.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Pry over 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) from housing
cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(3) Release housing cover from locating tabs on
housing (Fig. 3) and remove cover.
(4) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(5) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
Housing Assembly
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating
pins (Fig. 4).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install filter element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs (Fig. 3).(3) Pry up 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) and lock cover to
housing.
(4) Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten
hose clamp to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) If any other hose clamps were removed from
air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N´m (30 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) If any bolts were removed from air resonator
housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
1 - CLAMP
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - LOCATING TABS
5 - CLIPS (4)
Fig. 4 AIR CLEANER HOUSING
1 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - LOCATING PINS (4)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 21

²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.(6) Remove the intake manifold(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the master cylinder and booster assem-
bly(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assem-
bly(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN
- REMOVAL).
(10) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(12) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
5).
(13) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 6). Rotate the crank-
shaft one turn if necessary.
(14) Remove the crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(15) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 5 Engine Top Dead Center
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
9 - 22 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)

FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the
fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the engine oil filter.
(5) Remove the oil drain trough.
(6)
Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
(7) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(8) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle.
(9) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(10) Lower the front axle.
(11) Remove the through bolts(12) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left and right engine mounts.
(13) Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching
bolts
(14) Remove the engine mounts.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the
fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the skid plate.
(5) Remove the front crossmember.
(6) Remove the engine oil filter.
(7) Remove the oil drain trough.
(8) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(9) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(10) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle (Fig. 66).
Fig. 66 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
9 - 58 ENGINE - 3.7LDR

REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 70).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.
(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pres-
sure feed type.
OPERATION
Oil from the oil pan is pumped by a gerotor type oil
pump directly mounted to the crankshaft nose. Oil
pressure is controlled by a relief valve mounted
inside the oil pump housing. For lubrication flow
refer to (Fig. 71)
The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms
are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker
arm; oil flows through the lash adjuster then through
the rocker arm and onto the camshaft lobe. Due to
the orientation of the rocker arm, the camshaft
intake lobes are not lubed in the same manner as the
exhaust lobes. The intake lobes are lubed through
internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows through
a bore in the No. 3 camshaft bearing bore, and as the
camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns with
the hole in the camshaft bore allowing engine oil to
enter the camshaft tube. The oil then exits through
1.6mm (0.063 in.) holes drilled into the intake lobes,
lubricating the lobes and the rocker arms.
Fig. 70 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 61