Starting DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Repair Manual

(4) Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the
bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle
cap working outward (Fig. 35).(5) Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(6) Position the camshaft drive gear into the tim-
ing chain aligning the V8 mark between the two
marked chain links (Two links marked during
removal) (Fig. 36).
NOTE: When gripping the camshaft, place the pliers
on the tube portion of the camshaft only. Do not
grip the lobes or the sprocket areas.
(7) Using the adjustable pliers, rotate the cam-
shaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned
with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the
sprocket onto the camshaft (Fig. 37).
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-
torque resulting in bolt failure.
(8) Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt,
then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
hand tighten.
(9) Remove timing chain wedge special tool 8350
(Fig. 32).
Fig. 36 Timing Chain to Sprocket Alignment
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 35 Camshaft Bearing Caps Tightening
Sequence
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 121
CAMSHAFT(S) - RIGHT (Continued)

(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
43).
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves.
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.
(7) Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts. Tighten the bolts 9±13 N´m (100 in. lbs.) in
1¤2
turn increments in the sequence shown (Fig. 44).
(8) Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and
rocker arms.
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSEMBLY
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an inte-
gral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for
roller and camshaft lubrication.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft atFig. 43 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
Fig. 44 Camshaft Bearing Caps Tightening
Sequence
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 125
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

tons covered during this operation.Pistons and
connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder
block. When removing piston and connecting rod
assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the
each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch
to mark connecting rods or caps, as damage to
connecting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not
interchangeable and should be marked before
removing to ensure correct reassembly.
(4) Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions
using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool (Fig.
73).
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine
damage may occur.
(5) Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool
8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod
being removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore.
Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crank-
shaft journals, as engine damage may occur
(6) Immediately after piston and connecting rod
removal, install bearing cap on the mating connect-
ing rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and
rod surfaces.
(7) Carefully remove piston rings from piston(s),
starting from the top ring down.CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abra-
sive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or con-
necting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this
coating must not be damaged.
(1) Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pis-
tons in warm water and towel dry.
(2) Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring
land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the
piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in
the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks
and/or deterioration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
(2) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure posi-
tion of rings do not change during this opera-
tion.
(3) Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure
that hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connect-
ing rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine
oil.
Fig. 73 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
PositionÐTypical
9 - 140 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 86) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 86) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(6) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the
fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the engine oil filter.
(5) Remove the oil drain trough.
(6) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(7) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(8) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle.
(9) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(10) Lower the front axle.
(11) Remove the through bolts
(12) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left and right engine mounts.
(13) Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching
bolts
(14) Remove the engine mounts.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove the viscous fan.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the skid plate.
(5) Remove the front crossmember.
(6) Remove the engine oil filter.
(7) Remove the oil drain trough.
(8) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(9) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(10) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle (Fig. 87).
(11) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(12) Lower the front axle.
(13) Remove the (6) through bolts
Fig. 86 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
9 - 146 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig. 112)
from below engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO
NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at
center and working outward to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4)
Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten fas-
teners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45 degrees.
(5) Install starter and fasteners.
(6) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7) Connect heater hoses at engine.
(8) Install fastener attaching A/C accumulator.
(9) Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
(10) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Install battery and connect cables.
(13) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 112 Exhaust ManifoldÐRight
ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE
1 Stud (Qty 2)
25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.)4 Nut (Qty 2) 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.),
then loosen 45
degrees 2 Bolt (Qty 4) 5 Nut (Qty 2)
3 Stud (Qty 2)
9 - 164 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners (Fig.
113). DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners (Fig. 113). Tighten all manifold bolts
starting at center and working outward to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield (Fig.
113). Tighten fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then
loosen 45 degrees.
(5) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 113 Exhaust ManifoldÐLeft
ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE
1 Stud (Qty 2)
25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.)4 Nut (Qty 2) 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.),
then loosen 45
degrees 2 Bolt (Qty 4) 5 Nut (Qty 2)
3 Stud (Qty 2)
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 165
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL
- REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 183
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)

(6) Remove the viscous fan/drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the upper crossmember and top core
support.
NOTE: It is not necessary to drain A/C system for
engine removal.
(9) Remove the A/C compressor with the lines
attached. Secure compressor out of the way.
(10) Remove generator assembly (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR -
REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the intake manifold and IAFM as an
assembly(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/IN-
TAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(12) Disconnect the heater hoses.
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect P/S hoses
from pump, for P/S pump removal.
(13) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(14) Disconnect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist and
drain the engine oil.
(16) Remove engine front mount thru-bolt nuts.
(17) Remove right side axle retaining bolts.
(18) Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines
from their retainers at the oil pan bolts.
(19) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifolds.
(20) Disconnect the starter wires. Remove starter
motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(21) Remove the structural dust cover and trans-
mission inspection cover,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOVAL).
(22) Remove drive plate to converter bolts (Auto-
matic transmission equipped vehicles).
(23) Remove transmission bell housing to engine
block bolts.
(24) Lower the vehicle.
(25) Install engine lift fixture, special tool # 8984.
(26) Separate engine from transmission, remove
engine from vehicle, and install engine assembly on a
repair stand.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install engine lift fixture Special tool # 8984.
(2) Position the engine in the engine compartment.
(3) Lower engine into compartment and align
engine with transmission:²Manual Transmission: Align clutch disc assem-
bly (if disturbed). Install transmission input shaft
into clutch disc while mating engine and transmis-
sion surfaces. Install two transmission to engine
block mounting bolts finger tight.
²Automatic Transmission: Mate engine and trans-
mission and install two transmission to engine block
mounting bolts finger tight.
(4) Position the thru-bolt into the support cushion
brackets.
(5) Lower engine assembly until engine mount
through bolts rest in mount perches.
(6) Install remaining transmission to engine block
mounting bolts and tighten.
(7) Tighten engine mount through bolts.
(8) Install drive plate to torque converter bolts.
(Automatic transmission models)
(9) Install the structural dust cover and transmis-
sion dust cover,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the starter and connect the starter
wires (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install exhaust pipe to manifold.
(12) Lower the vehicle.
(13) Remove engine lift fixture, special tool # 8984.
(14) Connect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Reinstall the power steering pump.
(16) Connect the heater hoses.
(17) Install the intake manifold.
(18) Using a new gasket, install throttle body
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - INSTALLATION).
(19) Install the generator and wire connections
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GENERA-
TOR - INSTALLATION).
(20) Install a/c compressor and lines (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
(21) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(22) Install upper radiator support crossmember.
(23) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(24) Connect the radiator lower hose.
(25) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to
the radiator.
(26) Install the fan shroud.
(27) Install the fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(28) Connect the radiator upper hose.
(29) Install the washer bottle.
(30) Connect the transmission cooler lines.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 191
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)

(10) Remove the thrust washers.
(11) Remove the rear oil seal retainer(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT REAR
OIL SEAL RETAINE - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the crankshaft out of the block.
(13) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seal.
(14) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Select the proper main bearings(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
(2) Install main bearings in block and caps, and
lubricate bearings.
(3) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers.
NOTE: The main cap crossbolts are torqued after
final torque of the main cap bolts. Always use a
new washer/seal on crossbolts.
(5) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten in two steps using the following sequence
(Fig. 8).
²Step1±27N´m(20ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step2±Turnmain cap bolts an additional 90É.(6) Install the crossbolts with new washer/gasket.
Starting with crossbolt A (Fig. 8) torque each cross-
bolt to 28 N´m torque.
(7) Repeat crossbolt torque procedure.
(8) Measure crankshaft end play(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
(9) Position the connecting rods onto the crank-
shaft and install the rod bearing caps(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install timing drive(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION) .
(11) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the rear main seal and retainer(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT
REAR OIL SEAL RETAINE - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the windage tray/oil pan gasket.
(15) Install the oil pick up tube.
(16) Install the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(17) Install the vibration damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(18) Install the engine(Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARING - FITTING
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER
(CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal
with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90É
apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004
inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.0002
inch). Compare the measured diameter with the jour-
nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting
Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified
bearing-to-journal clearance.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
The main bearings are ªselect fitº to achieve proper
oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crank-
Fig. 8 MAINCAP TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
1 - Stud Location
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 207
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)