DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

Page 1351 of 2889

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan and oil pump pick-up tube
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
(2) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps one at a time.
(3) Remove upper half of bearing by inserting
Crankshaft Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool
C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 31).
(4) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing shell.
INSTALLATION
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly tight-
ened. All bearing capbolts removed during service
procedures are to be cleaned and oiled before instal-
lation.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 31).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.
(3) Lubricate the main journals with clean engine
oil. Install main bearing caps and bolts. Follow the 2
step tightening sequence, starting with No. 1 main
bearing cap.
(4) Apply a rearward axial load of 667 N (150
lbs-f) on crankshaft centerline, driving No.3 main cap
and thrust bearing against No.3 bulkhead. Repeatprocedure, driving crankshaft forward to align rear
flange of thrust bearings in a common plane. Front
face of No.1 main cap must not extend forward in
front of face of No.1 bulkhead.
(5) Install the oil pump pick-up tube and oil pan
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVALÐFRONT OIL SEAL - FRONT COVER
INSTALLED
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper from the crankshaft
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
(3) Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover (Fig.
32).
REMOVALÐFRONT OIL SEAL - FRONT COVER
REMOVED
(1) Remove engine front cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover.
Fig. 31 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 - BEARING
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 - BEARING
Fig. 32 Timing Chain Cover and Oil Seal
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - OIL SEAL
9 - 204 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)

Page 1352 of 2889

INSTALLATIONÐFRONT OIL SEAL ± FRONT
COVER INSTALLED
(1) Position the crankshaft front oil seal onto seal
installer special tool 6806 and C-3688 (Fig. 33).
Install seal.
(2) Install vibration damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(3) Install serpentine belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Install cooling fan and shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(5) Connect negative cable to the battery.
(6) Start engine and check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐFRONT OIL SEAL - FRONT
COVER REMOVED
(1) Position the crankshaft front oil seal onto seal
installer special tool 6806.
(2) Use tool 6761 to support timing chain cover
when installing oil seal with tool 6806 (Fig. 34)
install seal (Fig. 35).
(3) Install engine front cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 34 Oil Seal, ToolsÐ6806 and 6761
1 - FRONT COVER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6761
3 - FRONT OIL SEAL
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6806
Fig. 35 Oil Seal Installed
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6806
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6761
Fig. 33 Timing Chain Cover and Oil Seal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3688
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6806
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 205
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

Page 1353 of 2889

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure does not require the removal
of the seal retainer from the engine block.
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Carefully, remove the rear seal from the
retainer. Discard the oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
(2) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide, onto the
crankshaft.
(3) Position the oil seal onto the Seal guide, then
using Special Tool 8359 Seal Installer and C±4171
Driver Handle, Install the oil seal.
(4) The seal face surface must be countersunk into
the retainer.762±1.27mm (0.030±0.050 in.).
(5) Install the transmission.
(6) Check and verify engine oil is at correct level.
(7) Start engine and check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
9 - 206 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE

Page 1354 of 2889

NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 36).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove the air cleaner.
(3) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify
push rods to ensure installation in original location.
(5) Remove upper and lower intake manifold
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - REMOVAL).
(6) Cut the cylinder head gasket for accessibility if
the end tappets are to be removed.
(7) Remove yoke retainer spider and tappet align-
ing yokes (Fig. 37).
(8) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
(9) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
(10) Check camshaft lobes for abnormal wear.
Fig. 36 Leak-Down Tester
1 - POINTER
2 - WEIGHTED ARM
3 - RAM
4 - CUP
5 - HANDLE
6 - PUSH ROD
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 207
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

Page 1355 of 2889

CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
(2) Install tappets in their original positions.
Ensure that the oil bleed hole (if so equipped)
faces forward.
(3) Install tappet aligning yokes. Position the yoke
retainer spider over the tappet aligning yokes (Fig.
37)Install the yoke retaining spider bolts and tighten
to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the push rods in their original location.
(5) Install the rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install lower and upper intake manifold (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(7) The cylinder head cover gasket can be used
again. Install the gasket onto the head rail.For the
left side the number tab is at the front of
engine with the number up. For the right side
the number tab is at the rear of engine with the
number up.(8) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the air cleaner.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
(10) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(11) Road test vehicle and check for leaks.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons (Fig. 38) are elliptically turned so that
the diameter at the pin boss is less than its diameter
across the thrust face. This allows for expansion
under normal operating conditions. Under operating
temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away
from each other, causing the piston to assume a more
nearly round shape.
All pistons are machined to the same weight,
regardless of size, to maintain piston balance.
The piston pin rotates in the piston only and is
retained by the press interference fit of the piston
pin in the connecting rod.
The pistons have a unique dry-film lubricant coat-
ing baked onto the skirts to reduce friction. The
lubricant is particularly effective during engine
break-in, but with time, the material becomes embed-
ded into cylinder bore walls and continues to reduce
friction.
The pistons are LH and RH bank specific.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐPISTON FITTING
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.
Specified clearance between the piston and the cylin-
der wall is 0.013-0.038 mm (0.0005-0.0015 inch). The
max. allowable clearance is 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).
Piston diameter should be measured at the top of
skirt, 90É to piston pin axis. Cylinder bores should be
measured halfway down the cylinder bore and trans-
verse to the engine crankshaft center line.
Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in.00019INCRE-
MENTS is required (Fig. 39). If a bore gauge is not
available, do not use an inside micrometer.The coat-
ing material is applied to the piston after the final
piston machining process. Measuring the outside
diameter of a coated piston will not provide accurate
results. Therefore measuring the inside diameter of
the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge isMANDA-
Fig. 37 Tappets, Aligning Yoke and Yoke Retaining
Spider
1 - TAPPET ALIGNING YOLK
2 - YOKE RETAINING SPIDER
3 - TAPPET
9 - 208 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

Page 1356 of 2889

TORY.. To correctly select the proper size piston, a
cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in .00019
increments is required.Piston installation into the
cylinder bore require slightly more pressure than
that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded
coating on the piston will give the appearance of a
line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine from the vehicle (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and oil pump pick-up tube
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered
during this operation.(5) Be sure the connecting rod and connecting rod
cap are identified with the cylinder number. Remove
connecting rod cap. Install connecting rod bolt guide
set on connecting rod bolts.
(6) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and
connecting rod assemblies, rotate crankshaft center
the connecting rod in the cylinder bore and at BDC.
Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals. DO
NOT try to remove black coating on skirt. This
is the dry film lubricant.
(7) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
CLEANING
Clean the piston and connecting rod assembly
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 38 Piston and Connecting RodÐ8.0L Engine
1 - FRONT I.D. TOWARDS THIS SIDE
2 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS REAR
(R.H. ONLY)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10
3 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS FRONT
(L.H. ONLY)
1, 3, 5, 7, 9
Fig. 39 Bore Gauge
1 - BORE GAUGE
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - 2-5/16 in.
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 209
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

Page 1357 of 2889

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in
the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks
and/or deterioration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check the crankshaft connecting rod journal
for excessive wear, taper and scoring.
(2) Check the cylinder block bore for out-of-round,
taper, scoring and scuffing.
(3) Be sure that compression ring gaps are stag-
gered so that neither is in line with oil ring rail gap.
(4) Before installing the ring compressor, make
sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the
rail gaps located properly (Fig. 40).
NOTE: Be sure position of rings does not change
during the following step.
(5) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385
over the piston and tighten with the special wrench
(part of Tool C-385).
(6) Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod
bolts, a long protector should be installed on the
numbered side of the connecting rod.
(7) Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod
journal is on the center of the cylinder bore in the
bottom dead center (BDC) position. Be sure connect-
ing rod and cylinder bore number are the same.
Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore. Be sure the
piston and rod assemblies are installed in the proper
orientation (Fig. 41).
(8) The notch, groove or arrow on top of piston
must be pointing toward front of engine. The largerchamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed
toward crankshaft journal fillet.
(9) While tapping the piston down in cylinder bore
with the handle of a hammer, guide the connecting
rod over the crankshaft journal.
(10) Install rod caps. Install nuts on cleaned and
oiled rod bolts and tighten nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(11) Install the oil pump pick-up tube and oil pan
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION) and
cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Install intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(14) Install the engine into the vehicle (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 40 Proper Ring Installation
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
UPPER OIL RING GAP
2 - 2ND COMPRESSION RING GAP
LOWER OIL RAIL GAP
3 - SPACER GAP
Fig. 41 Piston and Rod Orientation
1 - FRONT I.D. TOWARDS THIS SIDE
2 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS REAR
(R.H. ONLY) 2, 4, 6, 8, 10
3 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS FRONT
(L.H. ONLY) 1, 3, 5, 7, 9
9 - 210 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

Page 1358 of 2889

PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐFITTING PISTON
RINGS
(1) Measurement of end gaps:
(a) Measure piston ring gap 2 inches from bot-
tom of cylinder bore. An inverted piston can be
used to push the rings down to ensure positioning
rings squarely in the cylinder bore before measur-
ing.
(b) Insert feeler stock in the gap. Gap for com-
pression rings should be between 0.254-0.508 mm
(0.010-0.020 inch). The oil ring gap should be
0.381- 1.397 mm (0.015-0.055 inch).
(c) Rings with insufficient end gap may be prop-
erly filed to the correct dimension. Ends should be
stoned smooth after filing with Arkansas White
Stone. Rings with excess gaps should not be used.
(2) Install rings and confirm ring side clearance:
(a) Install oil rings being careful not to nick or
scratch the piston. Install the oil control rings
according to instructions in the package. It is not
necessary to use a tool to install the upper and
lower rails. Insert oil rail spacer first, then side
rails.
(b) Install the second compression rings using
Installation Tool C-4184. The compression rings
must be installed with the identification mark face
up (toward top of piston) and chamfer facing down.
An identification mark on the ring is a drill point,
a stamped letter O, an oval depression or the word
TOP (Fig. 42) (Fig. 44).
(c) Using a ring installer, install the top com-
pression ring with the chamfer facing up (Fig. 44).
An identification mark on the ring is a drill point,a stamped letter O, an oval depression or the word
TOP facing up (Fig. 43).
(d) Measure side clearance between piston ring
and ring land. Clearance should be 0.074-0.097 mm
(0.0029-0.0038 inch) for the compression rings. The
steel rail oil ring should be free in groove, but
should not exceed 0.246 mm (0.0097 inch) side
clearance.
(e) Pistons with insufficient or excessive side
clearance should be replaced.
Fig. 43 Top Compression Ring IdentificationÐ
Typical
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING (GRAY IN COLOR)
2 - CHAMFER
3 - ONE DOT
Fig. 42 Second Compression Ring IdentificationÐ
Typical
1 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING (BLACK CAST IRON)
2 - CHAMFER
3 - TWO DOTS
Fig. 44 Compression Ring Chamfer LocationÐTypical
1 - CHAMFER
2 - TOP COMPRESSION RING
3 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING
4 - PISTON
5 - CHAMFER
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 211

Page 1359 of 2889

(3) Arrange ring gaps 180É apart as shown in (Fig.
45).
VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove the following:
²Radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
²Accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)
²Radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RA-
DIATOR - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove crankshaft pulley/damper bolt and
washer from end of crankshaft.
(4) Using Special Tool, 1026 3 Jaw Puller and Spe-
cial Tool 8513 Insert, remove pulleyÐdamper from
the crankshaft (Fig. 46).
(5) Inspect crankshaft oil seal. If damaged or
worn, replace the front oil seal (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT - REMOVAL).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the crankshaft pulley/damper onto the
crankshaft.
(2) Use Special Tool, C-3688 Crankshaft Pulley/
Damper Installer to press the pulleyÐdamper onto
the crankshaft. Install crankshaft bolt and washer
and tighten to 312 N´m (230 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 47).
(3) Install the following:
²Radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RA-
DIATOR - INSTALLATION)²Accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION)
²Radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION)
(4) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Fig. 45 Proper Ring Installation
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
UPPER OIL RING GAP
2 - 2ND COMPRESSION RING GAP
LOWER OIL RAIL GAP
3 - SPACER GAP
Fig. 46 Crankshaft PulleyÐDamper Removal
1-3JAWPULLER
Fig. 47 Installing Crankshaft PulleyÐDamper
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3688
9 - 212 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
PISTON RINGS (Continued)

Page 1360 of 2889

FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Position fan to assure clearance for radiator top
tank and hose.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(3) Install engine support/lifting fixture.
(4) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(5) Lift the engine SLIGHTLY and remove the
thru-bolt and nut (Fig. 48).
(6) Remove engine support bracket/cushion bolts
(Fig. 48). Remove the support bracket/cushion and
heat shields.
INSTALLATION
(1) With engine raised SLIGHTLY, position the
engine support bracket/cushion and heat shields to
the block. Install new bolts and tighten to 81 N´m (60
ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the thru-bolt and 2 piece rubber engine
rubber restrictors onto the engine support bracket/
cushion.
(3) Lower engine with support/lifting fixture while
guiding the engine bracket/cushion and thru-bolt into
support cushion brackets (Fig. 49).
(4) Install thru-bolt nuts and tighten the nuts to
68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove lifting fixture.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Position a transmission jack in place.
(3) Remove support cushion stud nuts (Fig. 50).
(4) Raise rear of transmission and engine
SLIGHTLY.
(5) Remove the bolts holding the support cushion
to the transmission support bracket. Remove the sup-
port cushion.
(6) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission. Install new attaching
bolts and tighten to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position support cushion to transmission sup-
port bracket. Install stud nuts and tighten to 47 N´m
(35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 50).
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 48 Engine Front Mounts
1 - ENGINE MOUNT HEAT SHIELD
2 - THRU-BOLT
3 - RESTRICTION PADS
4 - ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET/CUSHION
Fig. 49 Positioning Engine MountsÐFront
1 - ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET/CUSHION
2 - SUPPORT CUSHION BRACKET
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 213

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