FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Workshop Manual

together, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate. When the
engine is positioned flush with the engine
adapter plate and the transmission housing,
check that the torque converter is free to move
axially a small amount before refitting and
tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts.
6Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering
wheel are in the straight-ahead position then
align the marks made on removal and
reconnect the intermediate shaft to the
steering gearing. Tighten the clamp bolt to the
specified torque.
8Reconnect the selector rod and adjust as
described in Chapter 7, PartB.
9Refit the propeller shaft.
10Refit the exhaust system.
11Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
12Check the throttle cable adjustment. Where
necessary, also adjust the speed control cable
in the same way so that there is only a small
amount of slack present in the cable.
13Reconnect the coolant hoses to the water
pump housing.
14Fill the cooling system.
15Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
16Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 23
of this Chapter but note that on certain
models, it may be necessary to unbolt the
engine mounting brackets from the cylinder
block to allow sufficient clearance to remove
the mountings.
1Refer to Part A, Section 8 of this Chapter,
paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
2A selection of splined and Torx sockets will
be required to remove many of the bolts when
dismantling the engine.
3Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed.
a)Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where
applicable).
b)Exhaust manifold.
c)Alternator.
d)Water pump, and thermostat.
e)Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner.
f)Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs.
g)Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
h)Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
i)Oil filter.
j)Dipstick.
k)Engine mounting brackets (if not already
done).
l)Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses.m)Clutch.
n)Alternator mounting bracket.
o)Air conditioning compressor mounting
bracket (where applicable).
p)Engine lifting brackets.
Note: A puller will be required to remove the
crankshaft pulley. A new crankshaft pulley bolt,
a new timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly, new upper and lower timing chain
cover gaskets and a new camshaft cover
gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings
must be used on refitting.
1If the engine is in the car, carry out thefollowing operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
d)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
e)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
f)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11
inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).
3Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt.
15Timing chain and sprockets -
removal and refitting
14Engine dismantling - general
information
13Engine mountings - renewal
2B•8DOHCengine
1 Upper timing chain guide
2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket
3 Timing chain
4 Lower timing chain guide
5 Crankshaft sprocket (double)
6 Crankshaft
7 Oil pump chain tensioner
8 Oil pump drive chain
9 Oil pump10 Oil pressure relief valve
11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner
plunger
12 Plug
13 Timing chain tensioner plunger
14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket
15 Timing chain tensioner arm
16 Inlet camshaft sprocket
17 Copper chain links
15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components
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4Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
5Unscrew the bolt part way, and use a
suitable legged-puller to draw the crankshaft
pulley off the crankshaft. The legs of the puller
must be suitably shaped to enable them to
rest on the metal surfaces of the pulley.Note:
Do not attempt to remove the pulley with a
puller whose legs contact the rubber surface
of the pulley(see illustrations). Note that a
new crankshaft pulley retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
6Loosen the alternator lower mountingthrough-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
7Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
8Unscrew the eleven securing bolts, and
remove the lower timing chain cover. Remove
the rubber gasket and discard it; a new one
must be used on refitting.
9Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
securing screw, and carefully withdraw the oil
pump chain tensioner (see illustration).
10Unscrew the Torx type securing bolt, and
withdraw the oil pump sprocket, complete
with the oil pump drive chain.
11Unscrew the two Torx bolts securing the
lower timing chain guide, noting theirlocations, and withdraw the timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case (see
illustrations).
12Remove the Woodruff key from the end of
the crankshaft, prising it free with a
screwdriver if necessary, then slide the double
chain sprocket from the end of the crankshaft,
and lift the chain from the sprocket(see
illustration).
13Withdraw the timing chain through the top
of the timing case and, where applicable,
remove the cable-tie from the chain (see
illustration).
14The timing chain, sprockets and tensioner
can now be examined for wear and damage.
15Commence refitting as follows. Note that
coppered links are provided in the timing
chain to assist with refitting, but these can be
difficult to see on a chain which has already
been in service. If possible, position the
coppered links as described during the
following procedure. If the coppered links are
not visible, the chain should still be refitted as
described, but ignore the references to the
coppered links.
16Make sure that the slot for the Woodruff
key in the end of the crankshaft is pointing
vertically downwards. If necessary,
temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt in
order to turn the crankshaft to the required
position.
17Lower the timing chain into the timing
case from above, with the single coppered link
at the bottom. If desired, use a cable-tie to
DOHCengine 2B•9
2B
15.5a Using a puller to remove the
crankshaft pulley (viewed from underneath
vehicle)15.5b Position the legs of the puller on the
metal surfaces of the pulley (A), not the
rubber surface (B)15.9 Oil pump chain tensioner securing
screw (arrowed)
15.12 Sliding the double chain sprocket
from the end of the crankshaft
15.11a Lower timing chain guide upper
securing bolt (arrowed)
15.13 Withdrawing the timing chain through
the top of the timing case
15.11b Lower timing chain guide lower
securing bolt (arrowed)
15.11c Withdrawing the lower timing chain
guide
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prevent the chain from dropping into the
timing case, as during removal.
18Locate the double chain sprocket loosely
over the end of the crankshaft (larger sprocket
nearest the crankcase), with the timing mark
pointing vertically down.
19Fit the chain over the inner, larger
sprocket, aligning the coppered link in the
chain with the timing mark on the sprocket
(see illustration).
20Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide lower securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound.
21Introduce the lower timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case,
manipulating the chain around the guide as
necessary, then fit the chain guide lower
securing bolt and tighten it finger-tight.
22Push the double chain sprocket onto the
crankshaft, engaging the notch in the sprocket
with the groove in the end of the crankshaft.
23Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 42
of Section 18, but when fitting the chain over the
camshaft sprockets, align the timing mark on
each sprocket between the two corresponding
coppered links in the chain.
24Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide upper securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound, then fit the bolt and
tighten it finger-tight.
25Proceed as described in paragraphs 43 to 46
of Section 18.
26Tighten the two chain guide securing bolts
to the specified torque.
27Proceed as described in paragraphs 47 to 55
of Section 18.
28Fit the oil pump drive chain around the
outer crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump
sprocket, then refit the oil pump sprocket, and
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque. If necessary, a screwdriver can be
inserted through one of the holes in the
sprocket to prevent it from turning as the
securing bolt is tightened.
29Refit the oil pump drive chain tensioner,
and tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque.
30Refit the Woodruff key to the end of the
crankshaft.
31Inspect the oil seal in the lower timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary,
carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the
seal lip faces into the engine. Note that the oil
seal should be fitted dry. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover (see
illustration).
32Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
33Loosely refit the timing chain cover
securing bolts.
34Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centering the lower timing chain cover.
35With the lower timing chain cover
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
fit a new bolt.
36Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, in the two stages given in
the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning
as during removal.
37Tighten the lower timing chain cover
securing bolts to the specified torque.
38Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly,
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the
tensioner bracket engages with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and
tighten the securing bolt.39Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt,
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower
through-bolt.
40Refit the water pump/alternator drivebelt.
41If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1 of
Section 15.
42Where applicable, refill the cooling
system.
1Examine all the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner plastic
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is evident,
the complete tensioner assembly must be
renewed as the sprocket cannot be renewed
independently.Note that the tensioner plunger
assembly must be renewed whenever the
timing chain is removed.
3Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
chain has been in operation for a considerable
time, or if when held horizontally (rollers
vertical) it takes on a deeply bowed
appearance, renew it.
Note: The cylinder head must not be removed
when the engine is warm. Refer to the note at
the beginning of the following Section before
proceeding.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
3On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid
as an assembly.
4Drain the cooling system.
5Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
17Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
16Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - examination and
renovation
2B•10DOHCengine
15.19 Coppered link in timing chain aligned
with crankshaft sprocket timing mark
(arrowed)
17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant hose
from the inlet manifold
15.31 Fitting a new lower timing chain
cover oil seal15.32 Lower timing chain cover gasket in
position. Ensure that lug on gasket
engages with notch in cover (arrowed)
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6Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head
(see illustration).
7Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect
the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the
cylinder head.
8Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing, as applicable.
If necessary, mark the HT leads to aid refitting.
9The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds and fuel rail,
where applicable (it is easiest to remove the
head complete with the manifolds and fuel
rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel
rail can be unbolted and moved to one side,
leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to
place any strain on them.
10Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts
(in which case apply the handbrake and
support the front of the vehicle securely on
axle stands) (see “Jacking”). Discard the
gasket.
11If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where
applicable) are to be removed with the cylinder
head, disconnect all relevant wires, hoses,
pipes and cables, otherwise, unbolt the
manifold and the fuel rail, and move them to
one side, ensuring that they are adequately
supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
12Refer to the procedure described in
paragraphs 2 to 19 of Section 18 to complete
cylinder head removal.
13Commence refitting by referring to
paragraphs 20 to 55 of Section 18, then
reverse the procedure described in
paragraphs 1 to 11 of this Section, noting the
following points.
a)Use a new gasket when reconnecting the
exhaust downpipe to the manifold.
b)Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected
correctly.
c)Fill the cooling system.Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder
head gasket, a new timing chain tensioner
plunger assembly, a new upper timing chain
cover gasket, and a new camshaft cover
gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings
must be used on refitting. It is essential that
the three smaller M8 bolts are of the latest type
with hexagonal heads, not the earlier Torx type
(see illustration).
1With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2Unscrew the eleven bolts and four nuts, and
remove the camshaft cover. Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the four securing bolts and three
studs, and remove the upper timing chain
cover. Note the locations of the studs to aid
refitting.
4Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley,
turn the crankshaft to bring No 1 piston to the
firing point (TDC). With No 1 piston at the firing
point, the timing marks on the camshaft
sprockets should be pointing away from each
other, and should be approximately level with
the top edge of the cylinder head. Timing
notches are provided in the camshaft
sprockets, and corresponding paint marks are
provided on the outside edges of the
sprockets (see illustration).
5Hold the inlet camshaft sprocket stationary
using a peg spanner which engages with thespokes of the camshaft sprocket. Unscrew the
camshaft sprocket bolt, and remove the
distributor rotor shaft (see illustration).
6Repeat the procedure given in paragraph 5
for the exhaust camshaft, but note that a spacer
is fitted in place of the distributor rotor shaft.
7Squeeze the upper timing chain guide
securing lugs together, using pliers if
necessary, and withdraw the guide from the
plate at the front of the cylinder head (see
illustration).
8Mark the position of the timing chain in
relation to the camshaft sprockets, so that the
chain can be refitted in precisely its original
position (ie, make alignment marks between
each sprocket and a corresponding link in the
chain), then slide the camshaft sprockets from
the camshafts. Withdraw the sprockets and
lay the timing chain over the exhaust side of
the timing case, having eliminated the slack in18Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine removed)
DOHCengine 2B•11
2B
17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head
(arrowed)18.0 Use new M8 (auxiliary) cylinder head
bolts with hexagonal heads (A), not the
earlier Torx type bolts (B)
18.4 Timing mark positions with No 1
cylinder at TDC
18.5 Removing the inlet camshaft sprocket
bolt and the distributor rotor shaft18.7 Upper timing chain guide securing
lugs (arrowed)
If a peg spanner is not available,
a tool can be made from two
lengths of steel strip (one long,
the other short) and three nuts
and bolts; one nut and bolt forming the
pivot of a forked tool with the remaining
two nuts and bolts at the tips of the “forks”
to engage with the sprocket spokes.
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the chain. Secure the chain using a cable-tie
through two of the chain links to prevent it
from dropping off the crankshaft sprocket.
9Using a suitable pair of pliers, extract the
circlip from the chain tensioner arm pivot pin,
taking care not to drop it into the timing case,
then withdraw the pivot pin from the tensioner
arm. If the pivot pin proves difficult to
withdraw, an M6 bolt can be screwed into the
end to facilitate removal (see illustration).
10Lift the tensioner arm from the timing case.
11Lift the tensioner plunger assembly from the
cylinder head, and discard it (see illustration).12Take note of the markings on the camshaft
bearing caps, then progressively unscrew the
bearing cap securing nuts.
13Remove the bearing cap securing nuts,
then lift off the camshaft oil spray bars, and
the timing chain guide plate(see illustration).
14Lift off the bearing caps, and then lift out
the two camshafts (see illustrations).
15Withdraw the cam followers from their
locations in the cylinder head, keeping them in
order so that they can be refitted in theiroriginal locations (see illustration). It is
advisable to store the cam followers upright in
an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure
that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover
the cam followers.
16Working at the front of the cylinder head,
unscrew the three small M8 cylinder head
bolts which are accessible through the timing
case(see illustration).
17Working in the reverse order to that shown
for tightening the cylinder head bolts(see
illustration), progressively loosen the
remaining cylinder head bolts, and withdraw
them from the cylinder head.
18Lift the cylinder head from the block. If the
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a soft-
faced mallet. Do not insert a lever into the joint
between the cylinder head and block, as this
may result in damage to the mating faces.
Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.
19Recover the gasket, and the locating
dowels if they are loose, noting the positions
of the locating dowels.
20Commence refitting as follows.
21Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent possible contact
between the valves and pistons.
22Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then refit the locating dowels (where
applicable) and locate a new gasket over the
2B•12DOHCengine
18.9 Removing the chain tensioner arm
pivot pin circlip
18.15 Withdrawing a cam follower
18.14a Lifting off a camshaft bearing cap
18.16 M8 cylinder head bolts (arrowed)
located at front of cylinder head
18.14b Lifting out the exhaust camshaft
18.17 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
A Long M8 boltsB Short M8 bolt
18.11 Lifting the chain tensioner plunger
assembly from the cylinder head18.13 Lifting off a camshaft oil spray bar
The inlet camshaft is normally
identified by a green paint
mark. If necessary, identify
the camshafts so that they
can be refitted in their correct positions.
Warning: Take care when removing
the plunger assembly; injury could
result if the piston flies out. A new
timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly should be installed on refitting.
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dowels. Note that the gasket can only fit in one
position (see illustration). Do not use jointing
compound.
23Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
24Oil the threads of the new main cylinder
head bolts, and insert them into their locations
in the cylinder head.
25Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see
illustration)and in the four stages given in the
Specifications.
26Insert the three smaller M8 cylinder head
bolts through the top of the timing case (see
illustration)and tighten them to the specified
torque. Note that new bolts must be used, and
that they should be of the latest type with
hexagonal heads.
27Lubricate the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head, and the cam followers
themselves, then insert the cam followers into
their original locations in the cylinder head.
28Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head and the bearing caps.
29Lubricate the surfaces of the camshafts,
then carefully lay the camshafts in their original
positions in the cylinder head. Position the
camshafts with the slots in their front ends
pointing away from each other.
30Fit the bearing caps L1, L3, L5, R1, R3,
and R5 (see illustration), then lay the
camshaft oil spray bars and the timing chain
guide plate in position over the studs (see
illustrations).31Carefully tighten the bearing cap securing
nuts by hand in the following stages to lower
the camshafts into position.
Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L1 and R1
by half-a-turn (180°)
Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L5 and R5
by half-a-turn (180°)
Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L3 and R3
by half-a-turn (180°)
Continue to tighten the nuts in the small
stages given until the bearing caps contact the
cylinder head.
32Fit bearing caps L2, L4, R2 and R4, and
tap them into position on the cylinder head
using light taps from a soft-faced mallet.
Tighten the securing nuts evenly by hand.
33Tighten all the bearing cap nuts to the
specified torque in half turn stages, using the
following sequence.
L1 and R1
L5 and R5
L3 and R3
L2 and L4
R2 and R4
34Fit a newchain tensioner plunger
assembly to the housing in the cylinder head
with the piston uppermost. Before fitting the
new plunger assembly, take note of the
position of the piston (see illustration). The
assembly is normally supplied with the piston
protruding slightly from the cylinder, or slightlybelow the top surface of the cylinder (A). If the
new assembly is supplied with the piston
partially unlatched (B), or fully unlatched with
the latching ring visible (C), it must not be used.
35Locate the chain tensioner arm in position,
then insert the pivot pin, and secure it with the
circlip. Take care not to drop the circlip into
the timing case.
36Release the cable-tie securing the timing
chain, and lay the chain over the exhaust
camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
previously on the chain and sprocket, so that
the timing chain is taught on the exhaust side
of the engine.
37Fit the sprocket to the exhaust camshaft,
with the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with
the exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark in
line with the top edge of the cylinder head,
pointing to the exhaust side of the engine, see
paragraph 4). If necessary, use a pair of pliers
on one of the unmachined sections of the
camshaft to turn the camshaft to the TDC
position. Take care not to damage the
machined surfaces of the camshaft.
38With the sprocket fitted, fit the spacer to
the end of the camshaft, and tighten the
securing bolt finger-tight (see illustration).
39Lay the timing chain over the inlet
DOHCengine 2B•13
2B
18.22 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket18.30a Camshaft bearing cap tightening
sequence18.30b Camshaft oil spray bars correctly
fitted
18.30c Fitting the timing chain guide plate
18.34 Timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly
A Piston retracted - plunger assembly useable
B Piston partially unlatched - discard plunger
assembly
C Latching ring (1) visible - discard plunger
assembly
18.38 Spacer and sprocket securing bolt
fitted to end of camshaft, with camshaft in
TDC position (timing marks arrowed)
Warning: Take care when
installing the plunger assembly,
as there is a risk of injury if the
piston flies out.
procarmanuals.com

camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
previously on the chain and the sprocket.
40Fit the sprocket to the inlet camshaft, with
the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with the
inlet camshaft sprocket timing mark in line
with the top edge of the cylinder head,
pointing to the inlet side of the engine see
paragraph 4). Again, turn the camshaft if
necessary to enable the sprocket to be fitted.
41With the sprocket fitted, fit the distributor
rotor shaft to the end of the camshaft, and
tighten the securing bolt finger-tight. Note that
it is acceptable for the timing chain to sag
slightly between the two pulleys.
42Fit a new upper timing chain guide to the
plate at the front of the cylinder head.
43Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the
inlet camshaft begins to turn.
44If the chain tensioner plunger piston
protrudes from the cylinder, unlatch the piston by
pressing the chain tensioner arm down by hand.
45If the plunger piston is below the top
surface of the cylinder, a tool must be
fabricated to unlatch the piston (see
illustration). It is suggested that 2.5 mm
diameter welding rod is used to manufacture
the tool. Use the tool to release the piston as
follows.
46Carefully lift the chain tensioner arm with a
screwdriver, and insert the tool between the
tensioner arm and the piston. Remove the
screwdriver, and release the piston by
pressing the tensioner arm down by hand.
Carefully withdraw the tool once the piston
has been released.
47Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing
bolts to the specified torque, holding the
sprockets stationary as during removal.
48Turn the crankshaft clockwise through two
complete revolutions, and check that the
timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are
still aligned with the top face of the cylinder
head as described in paragraph 4.
49Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
another complete revolution, and check that
the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets
are facing each other, directly in line with the
top face of the cylinder head.
50If the timing marks do not align as
described, the timing chain has been
incorrectly fitted (probably one chain link awayfrom the correct position on one of the
camshaft sprockets), and the chain should be
removed from the sprockets and fitted in the
correct position.
51Inspect the oil seal in the upper timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,
the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary,
carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the
seal lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover.
52Fit the upper timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket. Great care must be taken
to avoid damage to the oil seal when passing
the seal over the end of the inlet camshaft.
Careful manipulation will be required (possibly
using a thin feeler blade) to avoid damage to
the oil seal sealing lip. Note that the oil seal
should be fitted dry.
53Refit the timing chain cover securing bolts
and studs in their original locations and tighten
them to the specified torque (see illustration).
54Remove the reinforcing sleeves from the
camshaft cover, and renew the rubber sealing
rings. Note that the four short reinforcing
sleeves fit at the front of the cover (see
illustration).
55Refit the camshaft cover using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts and
studs to the specified torque.
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
required during this procedure. New valve
stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.
Dismantle the cylinder head as described in
paragraphs 2 to 4, Section 12, PartA of this
Chapterand reassemble the head as
described in paragraphs 4 to 6, Section 42,
Part A of this Chapter, noting the following
points:
a)Ignore the references to the special tool.
b)Double valve springs are used on all the
valves (see illustration).
c)Refer to the following Section if the
cylinder head is to be inspected and
renovated.Refer to Part A, Section 34 of this Chapter,
noting the following points.
a)Valve and valve seat cutting and
regrinding can be carried out using
conventional tools.
b)The cylinder head cannot be resurfaced,
and if the surface distortion exceeds the
specified limits, the cylinder head must be
renewed.
Note: Once the timing chain has been
removed from the camshaft sprockets, do not
turn the crankshaft until the timing chain has
been correctly refitted - this is to prevent
contact between the valves and pistons. A
new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly,
a new upper timing chain cover gasket, and a
new camshaft cover and reinforcing sleeve
sealing rings must be used on refitting.
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
c)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
21Camshafts and cam followers
- removal, inspection and
refitting
20Cylinder head - inspection and
renovation
19Cylinder head - dismantling
and reassembly
2B•14DOHCengine
18.45 Fabricated tool used to unlatch
tensioner plunger piston
19.1 Withdrawing the double valve springs
from the cylinder head
18.53 Upper timing chain cover securing
stud locations (arrowed)18.54 Fitting a camshaft cover reinforcing
sleeve and sealing ring
procarmanuals.com

d)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
e)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If
necessary, mark the HT leads to aid
refitting.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15
inclusive of Section 18.
3Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive, considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam followers
cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual
components.
4Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
complete with bearing caps.
5Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
7Refit the cam followers and the camshafts as
described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of Section 18.
8If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter,
noting the following points.
a)If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter
6 when removing and refitting the clutch,
where applicable.
b)The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be renewed on refitting; the new
bolts are supplied ready-coated with
thread-locking compound (see
illustration).
c)Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring
gear.Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket must be used on refitting.
1The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip
faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover. Note that the
seal should be fitted dry.
5Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 32 to 40 of Section 15.
6If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the seal using an oil seal removal tool
if available. It may also be possible to remove
the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using
self-tapping screws and a pair of grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.
4Install a new oil seal. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine (see illustration).5With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: A new sump gasket will be required on
refitting, and suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and cylinder
block mating faces. Shims may be required
when mating the gearbox/transmission.
1Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle,
however if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed
as follows. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 9.
2Remove the clutch or automatic
transmission, as applicable.
3Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
5Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a
dab of paint or a marker pen, make alignment
marks between the intermediate shaft lower
clamp and steering gear pinion. Slacken and
remove the lower clamp bolt then disconnect
the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
6Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the sump to be removed.
9If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump has
been removed to prevent sludge from entering
the engine internals.
10Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the engine.
Do not prise between the mating faces of the
sump and cylinder block. Discard the old
gasket.
11Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
12Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25Sump - removal and refitting
24Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHCengine 2B•15
2B
22.1 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
24.4 Tool used to fit the oil seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool
A tool can be improvised using
a metal tube, a metal disc or
flat bar, and two flywheel
bolts.Draw the seal into
position using the two flywheel bolts.
If the sump is stuck, gently
tap it sideways to free it (the
sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on
studs in the cylinder block).
procarmanuals.com

13Apply a sealing compound to the faces of
the cylinder block and sump at the points
indicated(see illustration).
14Apply suitable thread-locking compound
to the sump securing studs and bolts, then
locate the sump on the cylinder block and fit
the securing nuts and bolts, but do not fully
tighten them at this stage.
15Align the sump so that the end faces and
the cylinder block are flush. To do this, use a
straight-edge. If the sump cannot be
positioned so that the faces of the cylinder
block and sump are flush, measure the
difference in height using a feeler blade as
shown (see illustration).
16Tighten the sump securing nuts and bolts
to the specified torque, then repeat the
measurement made in paragraph 15. If the
end faces of the sump and cylinder block are
not flush, suitable shims must be fitted
(available from a Ford dealer) between the
sump and the gearbox/transmission to
eliminate the clearance when mating the
engine to the gearbox/transmission. Note that
shims should be fitted at both sides of the
sump, as required. Select suitable shims from
those listed in the following table.
Clearance measuredShims required
0 to 0.25 mmNo shims required
0.25 to 0.29 mm0.15 mm (silver)
0.30 to 0.44 mm0.30 mm (light blue)
0.45 to 0.59 mm0.45 mm (red)
0.60 to 0.75 mm0.60 mm (black)
17If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
procedure described in paragraphs 3 to 8,
noting the following points.
a)Ensure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are in the straight-aheadposition then align the marks made on
removal and reconnect the intermediate
shaft to the steering gear. Tighten the
clamp bolt to the specified torque.
b)Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
c)Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
d)Refit the gearbox or automatic
transmission, as applicable, ensuring that
the required shims are fitted between the
sump and the gearbox/transmission.
e)Tighten all fixings to the specified torque
where applicable.
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt, a new lower timing
chain cover gasket and a new oil pump gasket
must be used on refitting.
1If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To Improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 10
of Section 15.3Unscrew the four securing bolts and
withdraw the oil pump from the cylinder block
(see illustration). Recover the gasket and
discard it.
4If desired, the pump can now be dismantled
and inspected.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
pump and the cylinder block.
6Prime the pump by injecting clean engine oil
into it and turning it by hand.
7Place a new gasket on the oil pump flange,
ensuring that the gasket is correctly located so
that the holes align with the oil passages in the
pump.
8Fit the oil pump, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
9Proceed as described in paragraphs 28 to 40
of Section 15.
10If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
1The oil pump can be dismantled for
cleaning, but if any of the components are
worn, the pump must be renewed as an
assembly.
2To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows.
3Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the pump cover (see illustration).
4Lift the inner and outer rotors from the
pump casing.
5Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug from
27Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
26Oil pump - removal and
refitting
2B•16DOHCengine
25.13 Apply sealing compound to the
sump/cylinder block mating faces at the
points indicated (2)
Dimensions are for guidance only
27.3 Removing the oil pump cover27.5a Unscrew the pressure relief valve
plug and washer . . .
25.15 Measuring the clearance between the
cylinder block and sump end faces26.3 Oil pump securing bolts (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

the pump cover, recover the washer, and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
illustrations).
6Thoroughly clean all components in petrol
or paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
7Examine the rotors and the pump casing for
signs of excessive wear on the machined
surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete
pump assembly must be renewed, as spare
parts are not available individually.
8Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the
spring, and screw the plug into place, ensuring
that the washer is in place under the plug.
9Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the
pump casing with the punch marks facing the
pump cover (see illustration).
10Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.
11Prime the pump before refitting.
1Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If the
teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew the
sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner for wear and
renew it if necessary.
3Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in
operation for a considerable time, or if when
held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a
deeply bowed appearance, renew it.Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil
pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.
1Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
Recover the gasket and discard it.
3Unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the
main bearing caps (see illustration).
4Removal is as described in Part A, Section 21,
paragraphs 2 to 5 of this Chapter, and refitting
as described in Part A, Section 37, noting the
following additional points:
a)Take note of the orientation of the bearing
shells during dismantling, and ensure that
they are fitted correctly during reassembly.
b)When fitting the pistons, ensure that the
arrow on the piston crown and the letter F
on the face of the connecting rod are
pointing towards the front of the engine.
c)Use new connecting rod bolts on
reassembly; before fitting, oil the threads
and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten
the bolts to the three stages given in the
Specifications.
d)Refit the oil baffle and tighten the securing
nuts.
e)Clean the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit
the pick-up pipe using a new gasket.
f)Refit the cylinder head and the sump.Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new
rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on
reassembly.
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing chain and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing
and remove it from the rear of the cylinder
block. Recover the gasket and discard it.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts and remove
the sump mounting plate from the front of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
5Check the main bearing caps for identification
marks, and if necessary use a centre punch to
identify them (see illustration).
6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers
(the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase,
not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether
or not new thrustwashers are required.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block,
and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place
on the crankshaft.30Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting29Pistons and connecting rods
- removal and refitting
28Oil pump drive chain and
sprockets - examination and
renovation
DOHCengine 2B•17
2B
27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and
plunger27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil
pump rotors must face the pump cover29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe
29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate
securing bolt30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com