FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Guide

1Remove the camshaft as described in the
previous Section. (If tool 21-005-A is available,
leave the camshaft in place until the valves
have been removed).
2Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor and
remove the cap and spring, keeping them
identified for location (see illustrations).
3Remove each valve from the cylinder head,
but identify them for location (see illustration).
4Prise the valve stem oil seals from the tops
of the valve guides (see illustration).
5If necessary unscrew the cam follower ball-
pins from the cylinder head, keeping them
identified for location.
6If necessary unscrew the bolts and remove
the timing belt tensioner.
7Remove the thermostat and housing.
8Remove the temperature gauge sender unit.
9Remove the manifold studs if wished by
locking two nuts onto each stud in turn and
unscrewing it.
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the radiator and disconnect the
hose from the thermostat housing
c)Remove the accessory drivebelt(s)
2Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover. Note the location of the cover in the
special bolt.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt,
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is alignedwith the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head. Note the position of the
distributor rotor arm. Mark the contact end of
the rotor in relation to the rim of the distributor
body.
4Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolts then pivot the tensioner pulley away from
the belt, to obtain maximum drivebelt free play
(see illustration). Hold the tensioner pulley in
this position and securely retighten the
retaining bolts.
5Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the camshaft
sprocket.
6Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging 5thgear (manual gearbox), or by removing the
starter motor and jamming the ring gear teeth.
Alternatively, if the pulley has peripheral bolt
holes, screw in a couple of bolts and use a
lever between them to jam it. Do not allow the
crankshaft to turn very far, or piston/valve
contact may occur.
7Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw
the pulley. If the pulley will not come off easily,
refit the bolt part way and use a puller (see
illustration). A puller will almost certainly be
required on fuel-injection models.
8Remove the guide washer from in front of
the crankshaft sprocket, then remove the
timing belt (see illustration). Do not kink it or
get oil on it if it is to be re-used.
9Remove the crankshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary (see illustration).
13Timing belt and sprockets -
removal
12Cylinder head - dismantling
2A•8SOHCengines
12.2a Compressing a valve spring
13.4 Timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed)13.7 Using a puller to remove the
crankshaft pulley
12.4 Removing a valve stem oil seal
13.8 Remove the guide washer from in
front of the crankshaft sprocket
12.2b Removing a valve spring and cap
12.3 Removing a valve
If the caps are difficult to
remove do not continue to
tighten the compressor, but
gently tap the top of the tool
with a hammer. Always ensure that the
compressor is held firmly over the cap.
procarmanuals.com

10Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
11Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket using
a puller if necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver engaged in one of the grooves.
Alternatively remove the rocker cover and use
a spanner on the camshaft lug.
13Remove the camshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary, then remove the backplate.
Note that the oil seal can be removed using a
special removal tool or by using self-tapping
screws and a pair of grips.
1Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket (only) (Section 13).
2Remove the distributor.
3Remove the fuel pump and pushrod (not
applicable to models with an electric pump).
4Unscrew the bolts and remove the auxiliary
shaft front cover (see illustration).
5Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
thrust plate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
from the block (see illustrations).
6Cut the front cover gasket along the top of
the crankshaft front oil seal housing and
scrape off the gasket.
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, remove
the clutch or automatic transmission.
2Prevent the flywheel or driveplate rotating
by jamming the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap to it.
3Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
the flywheel or driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
heavy.
4The engine adapter plate (backplate) may
now be withdrawn from the dowels if required
(see illustration).1If the engine is out of the vehicle, start at
paragraph 11. If possible, remove the sump
without inverting the engine, so that any
sludge in the bottom of the sump stays there.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
4Remove the splash guard, if fitted, and drain
the engine oil.
5Remove the starter motor.
6Remove the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the engine mountings.
7Release the steering shaft universal joint
strap bolt to allow for subsequent movement.
8Free the brake hydraulic pipes from the
clips on the front crossmember.9Support the engine, either with conventional
lifting tackle or with a bar positioned across
the engine bay and resting on two wooden
blocks drilled to fit securely on the suspension
turrets. Make sure the support arrangements
are satisfactory, as you will be working
underneath the suspended engine.
10Take the weight of the engine. Place a jack
under the front crossmember, remove the
crossmember mounting bolts and carefully
lower the jack. Only lower the crossmember
far enough to permit removal of the sump.
11Remove the 23 bolts retaining the sump.
12Remove the sump from the cylinder block
(see illustration). If it is stuck, hit it with a soft-
faced mallet, or prise it sideways (notbetween
the mating faces) with a large screwdriver or
bar.
13Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
16Sump - removal
15Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - removal
14Auxiliary shaft - removal
SOHCengines 2A•9
2A
13.9 Removing the crankshaft sprocket13.11 Removing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket14.4 Removing the auxiliary shaft front
cover
14.5b Removing the auxiliary shaft14.5a Removing the auxiliary shaft thrust
plate
15.4 Removing the engine adaptor plate
(backplate)16.12 Removing the sump
procarmanuals.com

1Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
sprocket (only).
2If an oil seal removal tool is available. the oil
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling
the outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump.
Also remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
Unbolt the oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
front cover and remove the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside (see
illustrations).
4Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using metal tubing or a suitable
socket (see illustration). Make sure that thesealing lip faces into the engine, and lightly oil
the lip.
5If applicable fit the oil seal housing and
auxiliary shaft front cover to the block together
with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. Make
sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block (see
illustrations). Fit the sump.
6Refit the timing belt and sprockets.
1Remove the flywheel or driveplate and the
engine adapter plate (backplate).
2Using a special removal tool extract the oil
seal (see illustration).However it may be
possible to remove the oil seal by drilling the
outer face and using self-tapping screws and
a pair of grips.3Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make
sure that the sealing lip faces into the engine,
and lightly oil the lip.
4Refit the adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the block (see illustration).
3Using a special splined key, unscrew the
bolts and withdraw the oil pump and strainer
(see illustration).
4Withdraw the hexagon shaped driveshaft
which engages the bottom of the distributor,
noting which way round it is fitted (see
illustration).
19Oil pump - removal
18Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
17Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
2A•10SOHCengines
17.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil
seal housing
19.2 Unbolting the oil pump pick-up
strainer from the block19.3 Removing the splined bolts which
secure the oil pump19.4 Removing the oil pump driveshaft
18.2 Using an oil seal removal tool to
extract the crankshaft rear oil seal
17.3b Driving the oil seal out of the housing
17.5a Oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
cover gasket in position17.5b Checking the alignment of the front
oil seal housing
17.4 Using a socket and a hammer to seat
the new seal
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 8.
1Remove the sump and cylinder head.
2Check the big-end caps for identification
marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
identify the caps and connecting rods (see
illustration).
3Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and
tap off the cap. Keep the bearing shells in the
cap and connecting rod.4Using the handle of a hammer, push the
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod
(see illustration).
5Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and 4
on the No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
and connecting rods.
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the pistons and connecting rods as
described in the previous Section. (In fact it is
not necessary to push the pistons out of the
bores if no work is to be done on them.)2Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel or driveplate. Also
remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
3Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and auxiliary shaft front cover and remove the
gasket.
4Remove the oil pump and strainer.
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them (see
illustration).
6Before removing the crankshaft check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see
illustration). This will indicate whether new
thrustwashers are required or not.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells
(see illustration). If the thrustwashers are to
be re-used identify them for location.
8Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the rear oil seal. Remove the
remaining thrustwashers (see illustrations).
9Extract the bearing shells keeping them
identified for location (see illustration).
1Unscrew the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the tops of the mountings.
Recover the washers(see illustration).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Remove the two nuts which secure the
23Engine mountings - renewal
22Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal
21Pistons and connecting rods
- removal
20Oil filter - renewal
SOHCengines 2A•11
2A
21.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
identification numbers21.4 Piston, connecting rod, cap and
bearing shells22.5 Main bearing cap identification marks
The arrow points to the front of the engine
22.8a Removing the crankshaft
22.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat
22.8b Removing a thrustwasher from the
centre main bearing
22.7 Removing the rear main bearing cap
22.9 Removing the centre main bearing
shell
procarmanuals.com

mountings to the front crossmember. Recover
the washers.
3Raise the engine with a hoist or a suitable
protected jack until the mountings are free,
then remove them.
4Fit the new mountings and lower the engine
onto them.
5Fit the nuts and washers and tighten the
nuts.
6Lower the vehicle.
Carburettor models
The crankcase ventilation system consists
of the special oil filter cap (containing a steel
wool filter) and an oil separator and vent valve
on the left-hand side of the engine. This is
connected by hose to the inlet manifold. The
system operates according to the vacuum in
the inlet manifold. Air is drawn through the
filler cap, through the crankcase, and then
together with piston blow-by gasses through
the oil separator and vent valve to the inlet
manifold. The blow-by gases are then drawn
into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.
Fuel-injection models
This system is closed, consisting of an oilseparator on the left-hand side of the engine
and a hose connecting it to the inlet air
trunking. Because the trunking is not subject
to manifold vacuum, no vent valve is needed.
1With the engine completely stripped, clean
all the components and examine them for
wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the following Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless you know that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
2If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
3Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
cylinder head bolts must be renewed because
of the high stresses to which they are
subjected.
4Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.1Unscrew the bolts and remove the oil pump
cover (see illustration).
2Using feeler blades check that the rotor
clearances are within the limits given in
Specifications (see illustrations). If not,
unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer and
obtain a new unit (see illustration).Fit the
pick-up tube and strainer to the new pump
using a new gasket, and tighten the bolts.
3If the oil pump is serviceable refit the cover
and tighten the bolts.
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
27Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
26Oil pump - examination and
renovation
25Examination and renovation -
general information
24Crankcase ventilation system -
general information
2A•12SOHCengines
23.1 An engine mounting
26.2b Checking the inner-to-outer rotor
clearance26.2c Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat
26.2d Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D CoverE Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Relief valve
26.1 Removing the oil pump cover26.2a Checking the outer rotor-to-housing
clearance
procarmanuals.com

3Note that undersize bearings may already
have been fitted, either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones(see
illustrations).Production undersizes are also
indicated by paint marks as follows:
White line on main bearing cap - parent bore
0.40 mm oversize
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize
4If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearings. These are usually supplied
together with the main and big-end bearings
on a reground crankshaft.
5An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings (and
big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filaments is checked against a scale which
shows the bearing running clearance. This
clearance is then compared with that given in
the Specifications (see illustration).
6If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavygrease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1The cylinder bores must be examined for
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
examining the top of the bores; if these are
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
consumption rate accompanied by blue
smoke from the exhaust.
2If available, use an inside dial gauge to
measure the bore diameter just below the
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
3Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
However, any improvement brought about by
such rings may be short-lived.
4If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
paper or a “glaze buster” tool. The object is to
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assist
the new rings to bed in. 5If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
new piston rings are being fitted, either the top
piston ring must be stepped (“ridge dodger”
pattern) or the ridge must be removed with a
ridge reamer. If the ridge is left, the piston ring
may hit it and break.
6Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensure that they are
unobstructed.
1Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring and
scratches. Check the connecting rods for wear
and damage. The connecting rods carry a
letter indicating their weight class; all the rods
fitted to one engine must be of the same class
(see illustration).
2The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
be fitted to the existing connecting rods the
work should be carried out by a Ford garage
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
the oil splash hole on the connecting rod must
be located on the right-hand side of the piston
(the arrow on the piston crown faces forwards)
(see illustration).
3If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections.
4Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
feeler blade to check that the end gaps are
within the specified limits (see illustrations).
5Clean out the piston ring grooves using a
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be
careful not to scratch the aluminium surface of
the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston ring
edges are sharp. Also probe the groove oil
return holes.
6Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the
piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm
29Pistons and connecting rods
- examination and renovation
28Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation
SOHCengines 2A•13
2A
27.3a Undersize crankshaft bearings are
indicated by a spot and/or line on the front
counterweight27.3b Main bearing cap marks (arrowed)
denote oversize parent bore27.5 Checking the width of the Plastigage
filament against the scale on the packet
29.1 Weight class mark (arrowed) on
connecting rod29.2 Relationship of piston crown arrow and
connecting rod oil splash hole (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

(1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the TOP
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
150°from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 150°on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
7Note that the compression rings are made
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.
Examine the surface of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the cam followers for
wear. If excessive, considerable noise would
have been noticed from the top of the engine
and a new camshaft and followers must be
fitted.
Check the camshaft bearings for wear and if
necessary have them renewed by a Ford
garage.
Check the camshaft lubrication tube for
obstructions and make sure that the jet holes
are clear. Obstruction of the holes can be due
to sludge build-up which occurs when regular
oil changes have been neglected.
Examine the auxiliary shaft for wear and
damage and renew it if necessary.
If the auxiliary shaft endfloat is outside the
limits given in the Specifications fit a new
thrust plate. If this does not bring the endfloat
within limits, renew the shaft.
Whenever the timing belt is removed it is
worthwhile renewing it, especially if it has
covered a high mileage. This is more important
on the 2.0 litre engine where stripped teeth on
the timing belt can cause the pistons to foul
the valves.If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it should be renewed. The old ring can
be removed from the flywheel by cutting a
notch between two teeth with a hacksaw and
then splitting it with a cold chisel. Wear eye
protection when doing this.
To fit a new ring gear requires heating the
ring to 204°C (400°F). This can be done by
polishing four equal sections of the gear,
laying it on a suitable heat resistant surface
(such as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with
a blow lamp or torch until the polished areas
turn a light yellow tinge. Do not overheat or the
hard wearing properties will be lost. The gear
has a chamfered inner edge which should go
against the shoulder when put on the flywheel.
When hot enough place the gear in position
quickly, tapping it home if necessary and let it
cool naturally, without quenching.
1This operation will normally only be required
at comparatively high mileages. However, if
persistent pinking occurs and performance
has deteriorated even though the engine
adjustments are correct, decarbonising and
valve grinding may be required.
2With the cylinder head removed, use a
scraper to remove the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
3Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
4If the engine is still in the car, clean the
piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
but make sure that no carbon drops between
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal
off the remaining bores with paper and
masking tape. Press a little grease between
the two pistons and their bores to collect any
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when the
piston is lowered.5Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the exhaust valve
heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
grinding the valve heads and seats together
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
6Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
7Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench on blocks of wood.
8Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and press a suction grinding
tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary
action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste as
before. A light spring placed under the valve
head will greatly ease this operation. When a
smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish
is produced on both the valve and seat, the
grinding operation is complete.
9Scrape away all carbon from the valve head
and stem, and clean away all traces of
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
with a clean rag.
10If the guides are worn they will need
reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide
inserts. The valve seats will also need
recutting to ensure that they are concentric
with the stems. This work should be given to
your Ford dealer or local engineering works.
11If the valve springs have been in use
for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more, renew
them. Always renew the valve stem oil seals
when the valves are removed.
1To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring washers
must be fitted where indicated. Oil all bearings
and other working surfaces thoroughly with
engine oil during assembly.
2Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or
studs with damaged threads.
3Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
4If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts and flywheel bolts will also be
required.
35Engine reassembly - general
information
34Cylinder head - decarbonising,
valve grinding and renovation
33Flywheel ring gear -
examination and renovation
32Timing belt - examination and
renovation
31Auxiliary shaft - examination
and renovation
30Camshaft and cam followers
- examination and renovation
2A•14SOHCengines
29.4a Checking a piston ring gap at the top
of the cylinder29.4b Checking a ring gap at the bottom of
the cylinder
To prevent carbon build-up,
polish the piston crown with
metal polish, but remove all
traces of the polish after.
procarmanuals.com

1Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
2Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
non-fluffy rag.
3Fit the five upper half main bearing shells to
their locations in the crankcase. If the old
shells are being re-used, make sure they are
refitted to their old locations.
4Identify each main bearing cap and place in
order. The number is cast onto the cap and on
intermediate caps an arrow is also marked
which should point towards front of engine.
5Wipe the cap bearing shell location with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
6Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
bearing cap.
7Apply a little grease to each side of the
centre main bearing so as to retain the
thrustwasher.
8Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers
into their grooves either side of the main
bearing. The slots must face outwards.
9Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
engine oil and locate the rear oil seal (with lip
lubricated) on the rear of the crankshaft.
10Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase.
11Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.12Make sure that the mating faces are clean,
then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or equivalent)
to the areas on the rear main bearing cap (see
illustration).
13Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two
securing bolts, but as before do not tighten yet.
14Apply a little grease to either side of the
centre main bearing cap so as to retain the
thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the
tag located in the groove and the slots facing
outwards (see illustration).
15Fit the centre main bearing cap and the
two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate
main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows
point towards the front of the engine.
16Lightly tighten all main cap securing bolts
and then fully tighten in a progressive manner
to the specified torque wrench setting.
17Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
18Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
19Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main
bearing cap wedges with sealing compound,
then press them into position with the rounded
red face towards the cap (see illustration).
20Refit the oil pump and strainer.
21Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing,
and auxiliary shaft front cover, if applicable,
together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts.Make sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block.
22Refit the flywheel or driveplate and the
pistons and connecting rods.
23Refit the timing belt and sprockets.
1Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
end caps.
2Press the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
them liberally. Note that the lugs must be
adjacent to each other (see illustration).
3Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine oil.
4Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston, then
insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
point, drive the piston carefully into the
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
and at the same time guide the connecting rod
onto the crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on
the piston crown is facing the front of the
engine (see illustrations).
5Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end bearing
cap in its previously noted position. Oil the
big-end bearing cap nuts, fit the nuts and
tighten them to the specified torque.
6Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
7Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 4
to 6 inclusive on the remaining pistons.
8Refit the cylinder head and sump.
37Pistons and connecting rods
- refitting
36Crankshaft and main
bearings - refitting
SOHCengines 2A•15
2A
36.12 Apply sealant to the rear main
bearing cap areas shown darkened36.14 Fitting a thrust washer to the centre
main bearing cap36.19 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear
main bearing cap
37.2 Big-end bearing shell lugs (arrowed)
are adjacent37.4a Fitting a piston ring compressor37.4b Piston crown markings
Arrow points to front of engine
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1Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the block
in its previously noted position.
2Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand (see illustration).
3Fit the pump. insert the bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque with the splined
key.
4Insert the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
5Where applicable refit the crankshaft front
oil seal housing together with a new gasket
and tighten the bolts. Make sure that the
bottom face of the housing is aligned with the
bottom face of the block.
6Refit the sump.
1Apply sealing compound to the corners of
the front and rear rubber sealing strap
locations, then press the strips into the
grooves of the rear main bearing cap and
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations)
2Apply a little sealing compound to the
bottom face of the cylinder block, then fit the
sump gaskets in position and locate the end
tabs beneath the rubber sealing strips (see
illustration).3Locate the sump on the gaskets and insert
the bolts loosely.
4Tighten the bolts to the specified torques in
the two stages given in the Specifications(see
illustration).Tighten to the first stage in
circular sequence starting at point A, then
tighten to the second stage starting at point B.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
5If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access to the sump.
1If it was removed, refit the adapter plate
(backplate) over the dowels on the rear of the
block.2Wipe the mating faces, then locate the
flywheel/driveplate on the rear of the
crankshaft.
3Coat the threads of the bolts with a liquid
locking agent before fitting. Note that the
manufacturers recommend using new bolts.
4Using a piece of angle iron, hold the
flywheel/driveplate stationary, then tighten the
bolts evenly to the specified torque in diagonal
sequence (see illustrations).
5If the engine is in the car, refit the automatic
transmission or the clutch.
1Oil the auxiliary shaft journals, then insert
the shaft into the cylinder block.
2Locate the thrust plate in the shaft groove,
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
them with an impact screwdriver.
3Support the front cover on blocks of wood and
drive out the old oil seal. Drive in the new seal
using a metal tube or socket (see illustrations).
Make sure that the sealing lip faces toward the
engine. Smear a little oil on the lip.
4If applicable cut the unwanted top half of a
new gasket and locate it on the cylinder block,
then fit the front cover and tighten the bolts.
5Refit the fuel pump and operating rod (when
applicable).
6Refit the distributor.
7Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and timing
belt.
41Auxiliary shaft - refitting
40Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - refitting
39Sump - refitting
38Oil pump - refitting
2A•16SOHCengines
38.2 Priming the oil pump
40.4a Method of holding the flywheel when
tightening the bolts39.4 Sump bolt tightening sequence
For A and B see text40.4b Tightening a flywheel bolt
39.2 Locate the gasket tabs beneath the
sealing strips39.1a Applying sealing compound to a
rubber strip location39.1b Fitting the rubber strip into its groove
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1Refit the thermostat and housing.
2Refit the timing belt tensioner if it was
removed, but do not tighten the bolts yet.
3If applicable, screw the cam follower ball-
pins in their correct locations (see
illustration).
4Oil the valve stems and insert the valves in
their correct guides.
5Wrap some adhesive tape over the collet
groove of each valve, then oil the oil seals and
slide them over the valve onto the guides. Use
a suitable metal tube if necessary to press
them onto the guides. Remove the adhesive
tape.
6Working on each valve in turn, fit the valve
spring and cap, then compress the spring with
the compressor and insert the split collets.
Release the compressor and remove it. Tap
the end of the valve stem with a non-metallic
mallet to settle the collets. If tool 21-005-A is
being used, first locate the camshaft in its
bearings.
7Refit the camshaft.1Drive the new oil seal into the camshaft front
bearing location on the cylinder head using a
suitable metal tube or socket (see
illustration). Smear the lip with engine oil.
2Lubricate the bearings with hypoid
SAE 80/90 oil, then carefully insert the camshaft.
3Locate the thrust plate in the camshaft
groove, then insert and tighten the bolts.
4Using feeler blades check that the endfloat
is as given in the Specifications.
5Lubricate the ball-pins with hypoid
SAE 80/90 oil, then fit the cam followers in
their correct locations and retain with the
spring clips. It will be necessary to rotate the
camshaft during this operation.
6Fit the oil supply tube and tighten the bolts.
7Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate and
sprocket. Insert and tighten the bolt while
holding the camshaft stationary with a spanner
on the lug (see illustration).
8Refit the cylinder head.
1Adjust the valve clearances. This work is
easier to carry out on the bench rather than in
the car.
2Turn the engine so that No 1 piston is
approximately 2 cm (0.8 in) before top deadcentre. This precaution will prevent any
damage to open valves.
3Make sure that the faces of the cylinder
block and cylinder head are perfectly clean,
then locate the new gasket on the block
making sure that all the internal holes are
aligned (see illustration). Do not use jointing
compound.
4Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer is
aligned with the indentation on the front of the
cylinder head.
5Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
The help of an assistant will ensure that the
gasket is not dislodged. Alternatively, make a
couple of guide studs by sawing the heads off
two old cylinder head bolts; remove the studs
when the head is in position.
6Lightly oil the heads and threads of the new
head bolts and insert them into their holes.
7Using the Torx key, tighten the bolts
progressively to the Stage 1 specified torque
in the indicated sequence(see illustration).
8In the same sequence tighten the bolts to
the Stage 2 specified torque.
9Wait five minutes, then tighten the bolts
through the angle specified for Stage 3, still
following the same sequence. (If the engine is
on the bench, it may be preferable to leave this
final stage until after refitting the engine, when
the problem of holding it still will not arise.)
10Refit the rocker cover, using a new gasket.
Make sure that the dovetail sections of the
gasket engage correctly (see illustration).
11Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing
plates. Tighten the bolts as follows, referring to
44Cylinder head - refitting
43Camshaft - refitting42Cylinder head - reassembly
SOHCengines 2A•17
2A
41.3a Driving out the auxiliary shaft cover
oil seal41.3b Fitting a new oil seal in the auxiliary
shaft cover42.3 Cam follower ball-pins and spring
clips fitted
43.1 Fitting the camshaft front bearing oil
seal43.7 Fitting the camshaft sprocket
backplate44.3 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket
A dab of grease on the collets
will keep them in position on
the valve stem
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