ECU FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Cooling And Air Conditioning Systems Workshop Manual

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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Radiator upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2515 to 18
Radiator lower mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 126 to 9
Coolant pump bolts:
SOHC models:
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4226 to 31
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
CVH (R6A type) models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Thermostat housing bolts:
SOHC/DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2013 to 15
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
CVH (R6A type) models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 126 to 9
Cooling fan shroud-to-radiator nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Coolant pump pulley bolts:
SOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner bolt:
CVH models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 3017 to 22
DOHC models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 9752 to 72
Cooling fan blades-to-fan hub bolts (SOHC models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Air conditioning compressor-to-bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 to 7548 to 55
Air conditioning compressor bracket-to-engine bolts:
M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 to 9263 to 68
M12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 to 12081 to 89
Air conditioning condenser fan assembly-to-condenser bolts:
Models up to 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 31 to 2
Models from 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Air conditioning condenser securing bolts (models from 1987) . . . . . . .27 to 3320 to 24
General information
The cooling system is of pressurised type,
and consists of a front mounted radiator,
coolant pump, cooling fan, wax type
thermostat, and an expansion tank.
The radiator matrix is manufactured from
honeycombed metal, and the end tanks are
made of plastic. On automatic transmission
models, the right-hand end tank incorporates
the transmission fluid cooler.
The coolant pump is located on the front
face of the engine block, and is belt-driven.
The pump is of the impeller type.
The cooling fan draws cold air over the
radiator matrix to assist the cooling process
when the forward speed of the vehicle is too
low to provide sufficient cooling airflow, or the
ambient temperature is unusually high. SOHC
models have a thermo-viscous fan, whereas
CVH and DOHC models have an
electrically-operated fan.
The thermo-viscous fan is controlled by the
temperature of the air behind the radiator.
When the air temperature reaches a
predetermined level, a bi-metallic coil
commences to open a valve within the unit,
and silicon fluid is fed through a system of
vanes. Half the vanes are driven directly by
the coolant pump, and the remaining half are
connected to the fan blades. The vanes are
arranged so that drive is transmitted to the fan
blades in relation to the viscosity of the silicon
fluid, and this in turn depends on ambienttemperature and engine speed. The fan is
therefore only operating when required, and
compared with direct-drive type fans
represents a considerable improvement in fuel
economy, drivebelt wear and fan noise.
The electrically-operated fan is switched on
by a temperature sensor mounted in the
thermostat housing when the temperature
reaches a predetermined level. The fan is
therefore only operating when required, and like
the thermo-viscous fan, offers a considerable
advantage over direct-drive type fans.
A thermostat is fitted. Its purpose is to
ensure rapid engine warm-up by restricting
the flow of coolant to the engine when cold
and also to assist in regulating the normal
operating temperature of the engine.
The expansion tank incorporates a pressure
cap which effectively pressurises the cooling
system as the coolant temperature rises,
thereby increasing the boiling point of the
coolant. The tank also has a further degas
function. Any accumulation of air bubbles in the
coolant is returned to the tank and released in
the air space, thus maintaining the efficiency of
the coolant. The pressure cap also incorporates
a vacuum relief valve which prevents a vacuum
forming in the system as it cools.
The system functions as follows. Cold
coolant in the bottom of the radiator circulates
through the bottom hose to the coolant pump
where the pump impeller pushes the coolant
through the passages within the cylinder
block, cylinder head and inlet manifold. After
cooling the cylinder bores, combustion
chambers and valve seats, the coolant
reaches the underside of the thermostat
which is initially closed. A small proportion ofthe coolant passes from the thermostat
housing to the expansion tank, but the main
circulation is through the inlet manifold,
automatic choke (where applicable), and
heater matrix, finally returning to the coolant
pump. When the coolant reaches a
predetermined temperature, the thermostat
opens and hot water passes through the top
hose to the top of the radiator. As the coolant
circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by
the flow of air to the vehicle’s forward motion,
supplemented by the action of the cooling fan
where necessary. By the time it reaches the
bottom of the radiator the coolant is cooled,
and the cycle is repeated. Circulation of
coolant continues through the expansion
tank, inlet manifold, automatic choke (where
applicable) and heater at all times, the heater
temperature being controlled by an air flap.
An air conditioning system is available as
an optional extra on certain models. In
conjunction with the heater, the system
enables any reasonable air temperature to be
achieved inside the vehicle; it also reduces
the humidity of the incoming air, aiding
demisting even when cooling is not required.
The refrigeration side of the air conditioning
system functions in a similar way to a
domestic refrigerator. A compressor, belt-
driven from the crankshaft pulley, draws
refrigerant in its gaseous phase from an
evaporator. The compressed refrigerant
passes through a condenser where it loses
heat and enters its liquid phase. After passing
through the dehydrator, which acts as a
reservoir and filter to extract moisture from
the circuit, the refrigerant returns to the
evaporator where it absorbs heat from the air
1General information and
precautions
3•2Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

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passing over the evaporator fins on its way to
the vehicle interior. The refrigerant becomes a
gas again and the cycle is repeated.
Various subsidiary controls and sensors
protect the system against excessive
temperature and pressures. Additionally,
engine idle speed is increased when the
system is in use to compensate for the
additional load imposed by the compressor.
Precautions
Air conditioning refrigerant
Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in
the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted
cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid
refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause
frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse
them with a dilute solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.
In view of the above points, and of the need
for specialised equipment for evacuating and
recharging the system, any work which
requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line
must be left to a specialist.
Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed
to temperatures above 230°F (110°C) - eg
during welding or paint drying operations and
do not operate the air conditioning system if it
is known to be short of refrigerant, or further
damage may result.
Antifreeze mixture
Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out
of reach of children and pets. Wash splashes
off skin and clothing with plenty of water.
Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid
discolouration.
Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed
at the specified intervals to preserve its anti-
corrosive properties. In climates where
antifreeze protection is unnecessary, a
corrosion inhibitor may be used instead -
consult a Ford dealer. Never run the engine
for long periods with plain water as coolant.
Only use the specified antifreeze as inferior
brands may not contain the necessary
corrosion inhibitors, or may break down at
high temperatures. Antifreeze containing
methanol is particularly to be avoided, as the
methanol evaporates.
The specified mixture is 45 to 50%
antifreeze and 50 to 55% clean soft water (by
volume). Mix the required quantity in a clean
container.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 46.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 46.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 46.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3If not already done, disconnect the bottom
hose from the radiator.
4Disconnect the top hose and the expansion
tank hose from the radiator.
5On automatic transmission models, place a
suitable container beneath the fluid cooler
pipe connections at the radiator. Unscrew the
union and plug the upper pipe, then repeat
the procedure on the lower pipe.
6Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
7To improve access, remove the cooling fan
shroud as follows, according to model.
8On SOHC models, remove the four
retaining clips and unscrew the two retaining
screws, then withdraw the upper section of
the fan shroud. Unclip and remove the lower
section of the shroud.
9On CVH and DOHC models, unclip the
wiring connector from the fan motor(s) then
unscrew the retaining nuts and washers, and
withdraw the fan shroud(s) and cooling fan
assembly(s) (see illustration).
10On early models, unscrew and remove the
upper radiator mounting nuts and washers
(see illustration). Unscrew and remove the
lower mounting bolts and washers and
withdraw the radiator from under the vehicle
(see illustration).11On all later models, the radiator is secured
to the engine compartment front panel using
clips and locking pegs. To release the top of
the radiator, work through the cut-outs in the
engine compartment front panel and remove
the two radiator upper locking pegs (see
illustration). Working under the front of the
vehicle, remove the two radiator lower
mounting bolts. Support the radiator from
underneath. Squeeze the upper radiator
locking pegs to release them from the engine
compartment front panel and lower the
radiator assembly from the vehicle.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
13Refill the cooling system.
14On automatic transmission models, check
and if necessary top-up the transmission fluid
level.
1If the radiator has been removed because
of suspected blockage, reverse-flush it.
2Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins
using an air jet or water and a soft brush. Be
careful not to damage the fins or cut your
fingers.
6Radiator -inspectionand
cleaning
5Radiator - removal and refitting
4Cooling system - filling
3Cooling system - flushing
2Cooling system - draining
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
3
5.10a Radiator and cooling fan shroud
upper mountings
A Radiator mounting nut
B Shroud securing screw
C Shroud securing clips
D Radiator top hose clip
5.11Removing a radiator upper locking peg5.10b Lower radiator mounting bolt
5.9 Unscrew the fan shroud/radiator
retaining nuts

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3A radiator specialist can perform a “flow
test” on the radiator to establish whether an
internal blockage exists.
4A leaking radiator must be referred to a
specialist for permanent repair. Do not
attempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator,
as damage to the plastic parts may result.
5In an emergency, minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a sealant.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Proceed as follows according to model:
SOHC models
4Disconnect the radiator top hose and
expansion tank hose from the thermostathousing situated at the front of the cylinder
head (see illustrations).
5Unscrew the two securing bolts and
remove the housing and gasket.
6Using a screwdriver, prise the retaining clip
from the housing, and extract the thermostat
and sealing ring (see illustrations).
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
8Clean the housing and the mating face of
the cylinder head. Check the thermostat
sealing ring for condition and renew it if
necessary. Use a new gasket when refitting
the housing.
9The thermostat wax capsule must face into
the cylinder head with the flow direction arrow
facing forward (see illustration).
10Refill the cooling system.CVH models
11Disconnect the wiring plug from thecooling fan switch on the thermostat housing
situated at the front of the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the automatic choke hose,
radiator top hose and expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing. Where
applicable, take care not to strain the wiring
which is routed around the housing. If
necessary, disconnect the wiring connector
(see illustrations).
13Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the housing and gasket (see
illustration).
14Lift the thermostat from the housing, and
carefully prise out the sealing ring.
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Clean the housing and the mating face of
the inlet manifold. Check the thermostat
sealing ring for condition and renew it if
necessary. Use a new gasket when refitting
the housing.
7Thermostat -removaland
refitting
3•4Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
7.4a Radiator top hose connection at
thermostat housing7.6a Prise out the retaining clip . . .
7.12c . . . and the expansion tank hose7.12b . . . the radiator top hose . . .7.12a Disconnect the automatic choke
hose . . .
7.4b Disconnect the expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing
7.6b . . . and extract the thermostat . . .7.9 Thermostat flow direction markings
(arrowed)7.6c . . . and sealing ring

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17Note that the thermostat wax capsule
must face into the inlet manifold, with the flow
direction arrow pointing forward, in line with
the pressure relief valve in the housing (see
illustration).
18Refill the cooling system.
DOHC models
19On fuel injection models, for access to the
thermostat housing loosen the clips and
remove the air inlet tube which connects the
plenum chamber to the inlet manifold.
20Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).
21Disconnect the wiring plug from the
cooling fan switch mounted in the thermostat
housing (see illustration).
22Unscrew the three securing bolts, and
withdraw the thermostat housing (see
illustration).
23Manipulate the thermostat from the inlet
manifold, and recover the O-ring. If it isnecessary to prise the thermostat out, take
care not to damage the surface of the housing
in the inlet manifold.
24Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
25Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly
fitted around the edge of the thermostat.
26When fitting the thermostat to the inlet
manifold, ensure that the relief valve is located
in the 12 o’clock position (see illustration).
27Tighten the thermostat housing securing
bolts to the specified torque.
28Refill the cooling system.
1To test the thermostat, suspend it by a
piece of string in a container of water (see
illustration).2Gradually heat the water, and using a
thermometer with a range of at least 100ºC,
note the temperature at which the thermostat
starts to open.
3Remove the thermostat from the water and
check that it is fully closed when cold.
4Renew the thermostat if the opening
temperature is not as given in the
Specifications, or if the unit does not fully
close when cold.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Proceed as follows according to model:
SOHC models
4Disconnect the heater and radiator bottom
hoses from the coolant pump.
5Remove the thermo-viscous fan (Section 12).
6If not already done, remove the coolant
pump drivebelt, then unscrew the four
retaining bolts and remove the coolant pump
pulley. If necessary, the pulley can be
prevented from turning using a strap wrench.
7Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
9Coolant pump - removal and
refitting
8Thermostat - testing
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
7.20a Disconnect the coolant hoses . . .
8.1 Testing the thermostat opening
temperature7.26 Thermostat relief valve (arrowed)
should be in the 12 o’clock position7.22 Withdrawing the thermostat housing
7.21 Disconnect the cooling fan switch
wiring plug7.20b . . . from the thermostat housing
7.17 Correct orientation of thermostat with
flow direction arrow pointing towards
pressure relief valve7.13 Removing the thermostat housing and
gasket
Holding the pulley can be
improvised using an old
drivebelt, and a suitable
socket and wrench.

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8Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the coolant pump and gasket from the
front of the cylinder block. Note that on
certain models, the alternator adjusting link is
secured by the right-hand retaining bolt (see
illustration).
9If the coolant pump is faulty, it must be
renewed, as it is not possible to obtain
individual components.
10Before refitting, clean the mating faces of
the coolant pump and cylinder block.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
12Use a new gasket, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
13Before fitting the coolant pump pulley,
ensure that the timing belt cover support bolt
is located in its hole in the pump.14Refill the cooling system.
CVH models
15Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
disconnect the coolant elbow from the
left-hand side of the coolant pump (see
illustration).
16Remove the timing belt.
17Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and
withdraw the distributor drive sleeve.
18Screw the camshaft sprocket bolt part
way back into the end of the camshaft, and
using a suitable puller, pull the sprocket from
the camshaft.
19Remove the plastic rear timing belt cover.
20Unscrew the two retaining bolts, and
remove the timing belt tensioner (see
illustration).
21Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the coolant pump (see illustration).
22If the coolant pump is faulty it must be
renewed, as it is not possible to obtain
individual components.
23Before refitting, clean the mating faces of
the coolant pump and cylinder block.
24Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
25Use a new gasket, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
26Before refitting the camshaft sprocket
bolt, the threads must be coated with sealer
(Loctite 74 or 274, or Omnifit 30M blue), as the
bolt acts as an oil seal for the hollow
camshaft. Do not forget to fit the distributor
drive sleeve.
27Correctly tension the timing belt.
28Refill the cooling system.
DOHC models
Note:Before proceeding, take note of the
following modifications: On models up to May
1990, the coolant hoses were connected to the
coolant pump housing as shown (see
illustration). On models from May 1990, the
heater hose (A) and the expansion tank hose (B)
connections were swapped over. If the hoses
are disconnected on earlier models,they should
be reconnected as on later models, ie connect
the heater hose to connection “B”, and connect
the expansion tank hose to connection “A”.
This will prevent the possibility of noises from
the heater matrix due to air in the system.
29On fuel injection models, for access to the
coolant pump, remove the air inlet hose,
plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid as an
assembly.
30Remove the coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt.
31If the pump pulley is to be removed, it is
easiest to do this with the pump in position, as
follows. Prevent the pulley from rotating using
a strap wrench and unscrew the four pulley
securing bolts. Withdraw the pulley.
32Position a suitable container beneath the
coolant pump, to catch the coolant which will
be released as the pump is removed. Unscrew
the five securing bolts, and withdraw the pump
from the housing in the cylinder block (see
illustration). Recover the O-ring seal.
33Before refitting, clean the mating faces of
the coolant pump and the cylinder block.
34Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
35Use a new O-ring seal (see illustration).
3•6Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
9.8 Location of the alternator adjusting
link under the right-hand retaining bolt9.20 Remove the timing belt tensioner
9.35 Coolant pump O-ring (arrowed)9.32 Withdrawing the coolant pump from
the cylinder block (engine removed)
9.29 Coolant pump housing hose
connections
A Heater hose connection - up to May 1990
B Expansion tank hose connection - up to
May 1990
C Bottom radiator hose
9.21 Withdraw the coolant pump
9.15 Disconnect the coolant elbow from
the coolant pump

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36Tighten the coolant pump securing bolts,
and where applicable the pump pulley
securing bolts, to the specified torque.
37On completion, refill the cooling system.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 21.
Removal
1Remove the alternator drivebelt.
2Loosen the alternator lower mounting
through-bolt, then remove the alternator
upper mounting bolt and swing the alternator
away from the engine.
3Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly
(see illustration).
Refitting
4Commence refitting by positioning the
tensioner on the cylinder block, ensuring that
the lug on the rear of the tensioner bracket
engages with the corresponding hole in the
cylinder block. Tighten the securing bolt.
5Swing the alternator into position, to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensionerassembly. Refit the upper mounting bolt, and
tighten the upper bolt and lower through-bolt.
6Fit the drivebelt by reversing the removal
procedure, and release the tensioner to
tension the drivebelt.
7Observe the tensioner indicator, which
should be central in its slot (see illustration).
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the four retaining clips and
unscrew the two retaining screws, then
withdraw the upper section of the fan shroud
(see illustrations).
3The cooling fan hub nut must now be
unscrewed from the coolant pump drive
flange. A thin cranked 32.0 mm (1.25 in AF)
spanner with a jaw thickness not exceeding
5.0 mm (0.2 in) will be required (see
illustration). Alternatively, if two of the
coolant pump pulley bolts are removed, a
normal thickness spanner can be used.Note
that the fan hub nut has a left-hand thread, (ie
it is undone in a clockwise direction.) If the
pulley turns as the nut is undone, remove the
drivebelt, and clamp an old drivebelt round
the pulley to restrain it, using self-locking
pliers. Tap the spanner with a mallet if
required to remove the nut.4If required, the fan blades can be separated
from the fan hub by unscrewing the four
securing bolts.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where
applicable, take care not to overtighten the
bolts securing the fan blades to the fan hub,
as thread damage may require the whole unit
to be renewed. Where applicable, refit and
tension the drivebelt.
CVH models
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Unclip the wiring connector from the fan
motor then unscrew the retaining nuts and
washers. Withdraw the fan shroud and
cooling fan assembly (see illustration).
2To remove the fan blades, prise the
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft
(see illustration).
3The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
4Where two cooling fans are fitted, both fans
are secured to the fan shroud in the same
manner.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
refitting the fan blades, ensure that the
direction of rotation arrow faces away from
the motor, towards the radiator.
13Electric cooling fan -removal
andrefitting
12Thermo-viscous cooling fan
(SOHC models) - removal and
refitting
11Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt tensioner (DOHC
models with power steering)
- removal and refitting
10Coolant pump/alternator
drivebelt(s) - checking, renewal
and tensioning
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7
3
12.2a Remove the retaining clips followed
by the screws . . .
13.1 Withdrawing the fan shroud and
cooling fan assembly
12.3 Modified spanner required for
removing the thermo-viscous cooling fan
X = 25.0 mm (1.0 in)Y = 12.0 mm (0.5 in)12.2b . . . and withdraw the upper section
of the fan shroud
11.7 Alternator/coolant pump drivebelt
tensioner indicator position
Inset shows tensioner at maximum
adjustment11.3 Withdrawing the coolant
pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner
assembly. Note lug (A) on tensioner which
engages with hole (B) in mounting bracket

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DOHC models
6Disconnect the battery negative lead.
7To provide additional clearance when
removing the cooling fan shroud assembly
(which is removed from below the vehicle),
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
8Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the
motor(s), and where applicable, unclip the
wiring from the fan shroud.
9Unclip the expansion tank hose from the
fan shroud.
10Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan
shroud to the top of the radiator, then tilt the
top of the shroud away from the radiator, and
lift the shroud to release the lower securing
clips. Withdraw the assembly from below the
vehicle.
11To remove the fan blades, prise the
securing clip from the end of the motor shaft.12The motor can be separated from the fan
shroud by unscrewing the three securing nuts
and bolts.
13Where two cooling fans are fitted, both are
secured to the shroud in the same manner.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
when fitting the fan blades, ensure that the
drive dog on the motor shaft engages with the
slot in the rear of the fan blades.
On CVH models, the cooling fan switch is
located on the right-hand side of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On
DOHC models, the switch is located in the
end of the thermostat housing.
Removal and refitting of the switch is as
described for the temperature gauge sender.
Removal
1With the engine cold, slowly unscrew the
expansion tank cap to release any remaining
pressure from the cooling system. Remove
the cap.
2Place a suitable container beneath the
expansion tank.
3Disconnect and plug the upper hose.
4Where applicable, disconnect the coolant
level sensor wiring plug. 5Unscrew the expansion tank securing
screws, and tilt the tank so that the coolant
runs to the sealed end.
6Disconnect and plug the lower hose.
7Drain the expansion tank into the container
and remove the tank.
8Where applicable, the coolant level sensor
can be removed from the tank by unscrewing
the collar from the sensor, then withdrawing
the spacer, sensor and seal (see illustration).
Renew the seal if necessary. Note that the
sensor can only be fitted in one position (see
illustration). Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10On completion, top-up the coolant level to
the maximum mark, then refit the expansion
tank cap and run the engine at a fast idling
speed for several minutes. Check the
expansion tank for leaks, then stop the engine
and if necessary top-up the coolant level.
Removal
1On SOHC models, the temperature gauge
sender is located on the front left-hand side of
the cylinder head, just in front of the inlet
manifold. On CVH models, the sender is
located on the front face of the inlet manifold,
next to the thermostat housing. On DOHC
models, the sender is located at the front of
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
16Temperature gauge sender
- removal and refitting
15Expansion tank and coolant
level sensor - removal and
refitting
14Cooling fan switch -removal
andrefitting
3•8Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
13.2 Fan blade securing clip and direction
of rotation arrow
15.8a Removing the coolant level sensor
from the expansion tank
16.3a Disconnect the temperature gauge
sender wiring - SOHC16.1 Temperature gauge sender location
(arrowed)16.3b Disconnect the temperature gauge
sender wiring - CVH
15.8b Fitting the coolant level sensor
14.1 Disconnecting the wiring plug from
the cooling fan switch

Page 9 of 12

2With the engine cold, slowly unscrew the
expansion tank cap to release any remaining
pressure from the cooling system, then refit
the cap.
3Disconnect the wiring from the sender
terminal (see illustrations).
4Unscrew and remove the sender, and
temporarily plug the aperture.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but smear
a little sealing compound on the sender unit
threads before fitting.
6On completion, check and if necessary top-
up the coolant level.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the securing screws and unclip the
lower and upper steering column shrouds.
3Remove the four securing screws and
withdraw the instrument panel surround. Note
that the bottom right-hand screw is covered
by a plastic panel which must be prised out.
4Remove the passenger side lower facia
panel.
5Where necessary for improved access,
detach the two vent hoses from the left-hand
side of the heater, then detach the lower ends
of the two control cables from the heater by
removing the retaining screws (see
illustration).
6Unscrew the three securing screws, and
remove the heater control panel by sliding it
through the facia panel and withdrawing it
downwards. Disconnect the wiring from the
control panel illumination bulb.
7If necessary, the bulb can be removed with
its holder.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
9When reconnecting the wiring to the control
panel illumination bulb, wrap insulating tapearound the wiring loom over a length of
approximately 330.0 mm (13.0 in) starting
from the bulbholder. Route the loom, ensuring
that it is located in the two retaining clips,
bend it over and secure it to the bulbholder
with insulating tape as shown (see
illustration). This procedure will prevent the
wiring loom from chafing against the heater
control levers.
10When reconnecting the control cables to
the heater, move the control levers on the
control panel to the fully up position, then
attach the cables to the clips on the heater.
The cable ends should project from the clips
by between 0 and 4.0 mm (0 and 0.16 in). The
cables are adjusted automatically by moving
the control levers fully downwards. It is
possible that considerable resistance may
have to be overcome when moving the control
levers.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2If the coolant is still hot, release the
pressure in the system by slowly unscrewing
the expansion tank cap. Place a thick rag over
the cap to prevent scalding as the pressure is
released.
3Note the location of the two heater hoseson the engine compartment bulkhead, then
disconnect and plug them (see illustration).
Alternatively, the hoses can be secured high
enough to prevent the coolant from draining.
4To prevent unnecessary spillage of coolant
when the heater unit is removed, blow into the
upper heater pipe until all the coolant has
been expelled through the lower pipe.
5Remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the heater pipe cover from the
bulkhead (see illustration). Recover the
gasket.
6Working inside the vehicle, remove the
passenger side lower facia panel.
7Disconnect the ends of the two control
cables from the heater by removing the two
retaining screws.
8Detach the five vent hoses from the heater.
9Unscrew the two mounting bolts, and move
the heater to the rear until the pipes are clear
of the bulkhead, then withdraw the heater to
the left. If necessary, remove the lower facia
bracket (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
adjust the control cables by moving the levers
on the control panel to the top and then the
bottom stops. Considerable resistance may
be encountered when moving the levers
towards the bottom stops, which should be
overcome.
11On completion, top-up the coolant level.
18Heater unit - removal and
refitting
17Heater controls - removal and
refitting
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•9
3
18.3 Location of heater hoses on engine
compartment bulkhead18.9 Withdrawing the heater18.5 Heater pipe cover
17.9 Heater control panel illumination bulb
wiring loom correctly routed17.5 Heater control cable lower end fittings
(arrowed)

Page 10 of 12

1With the heater unit removed from the
vehicle, remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the heater matrix from the casing
(see illustrations).
2Cut the heater casing gasket in line with the
casing joint, then use two suitable
screwdrivers to prise off the retaining clips
and separate the casing halves. Withdraw the
lower part of the casing to the side.
3Remove the air flap valves, then press the
control levers from the casing. Note that the
“up/down” control lever can only be removed
when the marks are aligned as shown (see
illustration).
4Clean all components and hose through the
matrix to remove any debris. If necessary usea chemical cleaner to clear the inner passage
of the matrix. Renew the components as
necessary.
5Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Where necessary, unclip the brake servo
vacuum hose for improved access.
3On models from 1987, unclip the
windscreen washer hoses and wiring from the
motor cover, and secure them to the
bodywork out of the way.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts from the
motor cover, pull off the rubber moulding,
then withdraw the cover (see illustration).
5Disconnect the wiring from the motor, and
detach the earth lead from its bracket. 6Unscrew the two motor securing nuts, and
withdraw the motor assembly (see illustration).
7Unclip the casing halves, then prise open
the motor retaining strap using a screwdriver,
or if necessary a drift.
8Detach the wiring from the motor, then
remove the motor and fan wheels from the
casing. Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal.
1Only those items which can be renewed
without discharging the system are described
here(see illustration).Other items must be
dealt with by a Ford dealer or air conditioning
specialist.
21Air conditioning system -
component renewal
20Heater motor - removal and
refitting
19Heater unit - overhaul
3•10Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
19.1a Remove the securing screws . . .19.3 Heater “up/down” control lever must
be aligned as shown before removal
Note that the cross marks are for right-hand
drive vehicles
1 De-ice thermostat
2 Evaporator
3 Expansion valve
4 Compressor
5 Compressor clutch6 Pressure switch
7 Sight glass
8 Dehydrator/collector
9 Cooling fan
10 Condenser
21.1 Layout of air conditioning system components
20.6 Heater motor and wiring
20.4 Unscrew the securing bolts and
withdraw the heater motor cover
19.1b . . . and withdraw the heater matrix

Page 11 of 12

Compressor drivebelt
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3On SOHC models, remove the thermo-
viscous cooling fan.
4Slacken the compressor mounting and
pivot bolts, move the compressor towards the
engine and remove the old drivebelt (see
illustration).
5Fit the new drivebelt, position the
compressor to achieve the correct belt
tension, then tighten the mounting and pivot
bolts.
6On SOHC models, refit the thermo-viscous
cooling fan.
7Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Condenser fan and motor
Models up to 1987
8Disconnect the battery negative lead, and
remove the radiator grille. On Ghia models,
remove the front bumper.9Disconnect the fan wiring connector at the
side of the condenser.
10Remove the three securing bolts and
withdraw the fan assembly. Turn the frame to
position the fan wiring on the dehydrator side
to avoid damaging the wiring. Take care also
not to damage the condenser fins or tube.
11To remove the fan blades from the motor,
remove the retaining nut and circlip. The nut
has a left-hand thread, ie, it is undone in a
clockwise direction.
12With the blades removed, the motor can
be unscrewed from the frame.
13Reassemble and refit in the reverse order
of dismantling and removal.
Models from 1987
14Disconnect the battery negative lead.
15Remove the bonnet lock.
16Unclip the guard from the fan frame.
17Disconnect the fan wiring connector (see
illustration).
18Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
19Unscrew the two lower condenser
securing bolts and disengage the condenser
from the top of the radiator by releasing the
three clips.
20Unscrew the four securing bolts and
detach the fan assembly from the condenser.
Withdraw the fan assembly from underneath
the vehicle.
21Proceed as described in paragraphs 11 to
13 inclusive.
De-ice thermostat
22Disconnect and remove the battery.23Disconnect any vacuum hoses,
windscreen washer hoses and electrical
wiring as necessary, then unscrew the four
securing bolts and on models up to 1987 the
single nut, and remove the right-hand plenum
chamber cover plate from the bulkhead.
24Disconnect the thermostat from the
evaporator casing and withdraw it. Also
withdraw the thermostat probe from the
casing.
25Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Heating/air conditioning controls
26The procedure is similar to that described
for the heater controls but additionally the
vacuum hoses must be disconnected from
the control unit vacuum valve during removal,
and reconnected when refitting.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11
3
21.17 Air conditioning condenser fan
wiring connector location (arrowed) -
models from 198721.4 Typical air conditioning compressor
mounting and pivot bolts (arrowed)