gas type JEEP CJ 1953 Owner's Manual

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

F2

14043

FIG.
F2-6—REPLACING VACUUM MOTOR ASSEMBLY

A—Drill
VW
Hole
B—Sensor
Unit
Replacement Position
1—
Motor
3—Sensor
Unit

2—
Spot
Welds
4—Retaining
Strap
•e.
Drill
a
%j
inch [2,78 mm.] hole in snorkel tube

at
point
"A"
as shown in Fig.
F2-6.
f.
Use the motor strap retainer and the
sheet
metal

screw
provided in the motor replacement kit to secure the retainer and motor to the snorkel tube.
g. Make sure the screw
does
not interfere with the
operation of the damper assembly. Shorten screw
if
required.

F2-9.
Replacement
of Air
Cleaner Sensor

a.
Remove two sensor retaining clips by
prying.
See

Fig.
F2-7.

b.
Pull
vacuum
hoses
from sensor.

c.
Note
carefully the installed position of the sensor so that you can install new sensor in same position.

Then
remove sensor.

d.
Install
sensor and gasket assembly in air cleaner

m
same position as noted in
step
c.
This
is to eliminate the possibility of interference with the air

filter
element.
e.
Install
sensor retaining
clip,
meanwhile support­
ing
sensor at B around the outside rim to prevent 14042

FIG.
F2-7—REPLACING SENSOR ASSEMBLY

1—Sensor
Retaining
Clip
damage to the temperature sensing spring. See

Fig.
F2-7.

f.
Reinstall
vacuum hoses.

F2-10.
AIR
PUMP
The
air injection pump is a positive displacement
vane type which is permanently lubricated and
requires
no periodic maintenance.

The
pump contains an integral relief valve which
controls the
air
supplied to the
engine
exhaust ports

during
high speed operation to limit maximum exhaust system temperatures.

F2-11.
AIR
FILTER
The
air injection system draws clean air from the
carburetor
air filter through an inlet hose, into the

air
pump and from the pump through two
outlets
(one for each cylinder head).

F2-12.
AIR
DELIVERY MANIFOLD

The
air delivery manifolds constructed of cold
rolled
steel with a zinc plating, distribute the air

from
the pump to each of the air delivery tubes in

a
uniform manner.

Two
check valves are included to prevent the
reverse
flow of exhaust
gases
to the pump should
the pump drive
fail.
This
reverse flow would dam­
age the air pump and connecting hose.

F2-13.
AIR
INJECTION TUBES
The
air injection tubes of stainless steel are in­ serted into machined
bosses
of the cylinder head.

The
tubes project into the exhaust ports directing
air
into the vicinity of the exhaust valve stem.

F2-14.
ANTI-BACKFIRE VALVE
The
anti-backfire valve is used to provide a "gulp" of air into the
engine
induction system during
rapid

throttle opening and subsequent closure.
During
rapid
throttle closure, the valve
opens
for approxi­
mately one (1) second and bleeds air into the
intake
manifold through a fitting in the carburetor.

Its
function is to bleed an adequate amount of

air
below the carburetor throttle plate to compen­ sate for the
overrich
fuel mixture normally inducted
into the combustion chamber during
rapid
throttle

closure.

Filtered
air from the pump is provided to the
anti-backfire
valve by means of a connecting hose.

An
exhaust system backfire
will
result if the valve

fails
to function properly.

F2-15.
ENGINE COMPONENTS
The
following item varies in design or specifications

from
those
on vehicles not equipped with the Ex­

haust
Emission
Control
System.

F2-16.
Carburetor

Check
carburetor number for proper application. Specifications are listed in this section.

Proper
carburetor idle mixture adjustment is im­ perative for
best
exhaust emission control.

The
idle adjustment should be made with the en­
gine
at normal operating temperature, lights and accessories off and the air cleaner in place.
Adjust
155

F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
F2-3L
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS
GUIDE

Pump Noisy
Hoses Touching Other Parts of Engine or Body (Hood).

Note:
The Air Pump is not completely noiseless.

Under
normal conditions, pump
noise
rises in pitch as
engine
speed
increases. It is desirable to allow
for normal break-in wear of the pump prior to re­
placement for
excessive
noise.
Pump Seized
Replace pump.
-
do not pry on housing.
Leak
In Hose

Check
for leaks; using
soap
and water, tighten clamps or replace
hoses.

Pump Inoperative
Loose Belt — tighten belt
-

Filter
Plugged — replace.

Exhaust
Backfire

Check
for vacuum leaks — correct as necessary.
Check
anti-backfire valve — replace as necessary
Induction System Backfire

Verify
engine
timing and distributor dwell.
Verify
accelerator pump charge.

F2-32.
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE CHART

Efficient
performance of the Exhaust Emission very important that all of the maintenance require-

Control
System is
dependent
upon precise main-
ments
are performed with extreme care at the
tenance. As indicated in the following chart, it is specific interval indicated.
Thousands of miles* or

OPERATION
number of months whichever occurs first 2 6 12 18 24 30
Inspect engine-driven
belts
for condition and tension R R
Replace positive crankcase ventilation valve
(PCV)
R R

Check
for free operation of exhaust manifold heat control valve O O O O O

Clean
carburetor air cleaner — Oil Bath O O O O O
Replace carburetor air cleaner
element
— Dry Type O
Check
heated air system O O

Engine
tune-up O O

Check
engine
timing R O O O
Adjust
carburetor idle
speed
and mixture R O O O

Perform
factory-recommended road
test
for evaluation of overall performance and handling O O O O O

R
— Required Services O — Recommended Services

*
Miles Kilometers
2,000
—
3,200

6,000
—
9,600

12,000
—
19,200 18,000
—
28,800
24,000
—
38,400
30,000
—
48,000

F2-33.
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Air
Pump Belt Tension 60 lb.

Rotor
Ring Screw Torque . 37 lb-in.
Housing Cover Bolt Torque 10 lb-ft. Speed Ratio, Air Pump to Engine
1
\i to 1

F2-34.
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS

Make
Rochester Model Designation 2G Code Number
7027082
—
7041185

Choke
Manual
Number of Barrels 2

Throttle
Bore... \W [3,65 cm.]
Main
Metering Jet Production .051" - 60° [1,29 mm.]
High
Altitude — over
5000
ft .049" - 60° [1,24 mm.]
—
over
10,000
ft .047" - 60° [1,19 mm.]

Float
Level
Adjustment* 1%," [2,94 cm.]
Float
Drop Adjustment l%" [4,76 cm.]
Pump Rod Adjustment** 1%" [2,94 cm.]
Engine
Idle
R.P.M.
(In Neutral) 650 to 700

Initial
Idle Speed-screw
setting
3 turns in

Initial
Idle Mixture-screw
setting
2 turns out
Dash
Pot Setting. Y%w [3,75 mm.]
*From
air horn gasket to top of float at toe.

**From
air cleaner ring to top of pump rod.
158

G
COOLING SYSTEM
engine
connections. Insert flushing gun and flush
heater core.
Care
must be taken when applying air
pressure to prevent damage to the heater core.

G-2.
Filling
Cooling System
To
fill
the cooling system, remove the
fill
cap and

fill
the tank to the top. Replace the cap and run
the
engine
at medium speed for approximately one
minute. Remove the cap and recheck the coolant level. Add more coolant if necessary to bring the level back to the top of the tank. If the cooling system is filled when the
engine
is cold, recheck the coolant level after the
engine
has warmed up.
This

will
ensure that the thermostat has opened allow­ ing complete cooling system circulation.

Always
correct any cooling system leaks before installing antifreeze. A corrosion inhibitor should be used in the cooling system to prevent the forma­
tion of rust and scale. A quality brand antifreeze containing a corrosion inhibitor should be used.

When
the antifreeze is drained in the spring, a
corrosion inhibitor should be added with the water.

Note:
Cooling system components for both V6 and

F4
engines
are shown in
Figs.
G-2 and G-3.

G-3. Draining
Cooling System

To
completely
drain
the cooling system, open the

drain
in the
bottom
of the radiator and also a

drain
on the right side of the cylinder block on the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The Dauntless V-6
engine

has two
drain
plugs, one located on each side of the cylinder block. Both plugs must be removed to
completely
drain
the cooling system.
Remove the radiator cap to break any vacuum
that may have developed.

Should
the cooling solution be lost from the system

and
the
engine
become
overheated do not
refill

the system immediately but allow the
engine
to cool or
refill
slowly while the
engine
is running. If
cold solution is poured into the radiator while the

engine
is overheated there is danger of cracking the

cylinder
block and/or cylinder head.
G-4.
Radiator Pressure
Cap

All
radiators are equipped with pressure caps which
reduce evaporation of cooling solution and make the
engines
more efficient by permitting slightly
higher operating temperatures. When operating
properly,
the pressure cap permits pressure build-up

in
the cooling system during periods of severe heat

load.
This
pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant and thus reduces overflow losses. The

effectiveness
of the cap is limited by its opening
pressure and the boiling point of the coolant (see
note
below). The pressure cap employs a spring-
loaded, rubber-faced pressure seal which presses against a seat in the radiator top tank. Spring pres­

sure
determines the opening pressure of the valve.

A
typical pressure cap is shown in Fig. G-5.

Note:
Refer to cooling system specifications (Par.

G-21)
for opening (relief) pressure when the ve­
hicle is equipped with either the
Hurricane
F4
or
Dauntless V-6 engine. If a new cap is required, always install a cap of the same type and pressure
rating
specified. It should never be altered or re­
placed by a plain cap.

A
vacuum release valve (Fig. G-5) is employed to
prevent undesirable vacuum build-up when the system
cools
down. The vacuum release valve is
held against its seat under light spring pressure.

Vacuum
in the system is relieved by the valve
which
opens
at V2 to 1 psi. [0,035 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

vacuum.
A pressure tester can be used to check and
test
the vacuum pressure rate (see Fig. G-6).
Although the mechanism of the pressure cap re­ quires no maintenance, the cap should be inspected
periodically for cleanliness and freedom of opera­ tion. The pressure cap gasket and radiator filler neck seat should also be inspected to be sure they

are
providing a proper seal. If the rubber face of
the valve is defective, a new cap should be installed.
Filler
neck reseating
tools
are commercially
avail­
able to correct minor
defects
at the surface of the seat. Follow instructions of the reseating tool manu­

facturer.

To
remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine
coolant temperature is high or boiling, place

a
cloth over the pressure cap and
turn
counter­ clockwise about Vi
turn
until the first (pressure release)
stop
is reached. Keep the cap in this posi­
tion until all pressure is released.
Then
push cap
down and
turn
still
further until cap can be re­ moved. To install the pressure cap, place it in posi­
tion and
turn
it clockwise as far as it
will
go.

Caution:
Use extreme care in removing the radiator
pressure cap. In overheated systems, the sudden release of pressure can cause a steam flash and this

flash,
or the
loosened
cap can cause serious personal

injury.

G-5.
RADIATOR

Maintenance of the radiator consists of keeping
the exterior of the radiator core clean, the interior free from rust and scale, and the radiator free from

leaks.
Check
the cooling system fluid level and for
leaks each
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] or every 30
days, whichever occurs first.
This
exterior of the

radiator
core should be cleaned and the radiator inspected for leaks each
6000
miles
[9.600
km.]
of normal service of the vehicle. Cleaning should be performed by blowing out with air stream or water stream directed from the
rear
of the radiator.

Visual
inspection is not sufficient as the accumula­ tion of small particles of foreign material on core
surfaces can restrict cooling without closing the core openings.

Radiator
leakage occasionally results from cor­
rosion perforation of the metal but most leakage results from mechanical failure of soldered joints
when too much strain has been put on the joint.
Fractures
occur most
often
at the joint where the
radiator
inlet and
outlet
pipes are attached to the

tanks.
When the seams break, the entire soldered

joint
is
exposed
and can corrode, but breakage
rather
than corrosion is the
primary
cause of seam
leakage. Examine the radiator carefully for leaks before and after cleaning. Cleaning may uncover points of leakage already existing but plugged with
rust.
White, rusty, or colored leakage stains indicate 164

G
COOLING SYSTEM and
the outlet
hose
is connected to the water pump
housing.
When
installing a new hose, clean the pipe connec­
tions and apply a thin layer of nonhardening seal­
ing compound. Hose clamps should be properly
located over the connections to provide secure fastening. The pressurized cooling system pressure

can
blow off improperly installed hoses.

G-8.
Cylinder
Block

Any
coolant leaks at the engine block water joints

are
aggravated by pump pressure in the water

jacket
and by pressure developed in the cooling system when the pressure cap is in place.
Small
leaks showing up only as moist
spots
often
cannot
be detected when the engine is hot except by the
appearance of rust, corrosion, and dye stains where
leakage evaporated. Also, expansion and contrac­ tion of the engine block resulting from extreme
temperature changes can aggravate leaks. For
these

reasons, when checking for coolant leaks inspect
the block when it is cold and while the engine is

running.
A
leaking
drain
cock or plug that cannot be stopped

leaking
by tightening should be replaced.
Leaking

core-hole expansion plugs should be replaced.
If
tightening gasketed joints
will
not correct leak­
age, install new gaskets. Use a sealing compound
where recommended.

G-9.
Thermostat
a.
The cooling system of the engine is designed
to provide adequate cooling under most adverse conditions. However, it is necessary to employ
some

device to provide quick warming and to prevent
overcooling during normal operation. Automatic
control
of engine operating temperature is provided
by a water flow control thermostat installed in the
water
outlet of the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The ther­
mostat is a heat-operated valve. It should always
be maintained in working order and the vehicle
should never be driven without one installed as there would then be no control of engine tempera­

ture.
The temperature at which the thermostat
opens
is preset and cannot be altered.

b.
The thermostat on the
Hurricane
F4 engine is
located in a housing on the top front of the cylinder

head.
On the Dauntless V-6 engine it is located
in
the thermostat housing of the air intake manifold.

The
standard engine thermostat for the
Hurricane

F4
and Dauntless V-6 engine has a normal rating
of
190°F.
[87.8°C]
and should begin to open at

a
coolant temperature between
180°F.
[82°C]
to
192°F.
[89°C]
and be fully open at
202°F.
[94°C.].
See Fig. G-7 for method of testing.

When
the thermostat is not operating properly, the engine may
run
too hot or too cold. Overheating

may
damage the thermostat so that its valve
will

not function properly, and a cold engine
will
not achieve
full
efficiency.
Rust
can also interfere with
thermostat operation. To
test
the thermostat, place

it
in water heated approximately
25°F.
[17°C]
above the temperature stamped on the thermostat

valve.
Submerge the bellows completely and agitate
the water thoroughly. The valve should open fully.
Next, place the thermostat in water heated approxi-
FIG.
G-7—THERMOSTAT
TEST

mately 10°F.
[11°C]
below the temperature
stamped on the thermostat valve. Submerge the bellows completely and agitate the water thorough­
ly.
The valve should close completely. If the ther­
mostat fails either of
these
tests, it should be re­ placed with a new one of the same type and rating.

G-10. Temperature
Sending Unit

The
sending unit incorporates a temperature sens­ ing element that when it is surrounded by cold engine coolant, the unit provides the highest resist­
ance in the temperature
gauge
indicator
circuit.
Resultant
low current flow in the circuit causes the

indicator
on the instrument panel to read at the low (C) end of the
gauge.
As engine coolant tem­

perature
increases, the resistance of the unit is
decreased allowing an increased current flow in
the
circuit,
making the instrument panel
gauge

register in proportion to the temperature of the engine coolant.

To
test
the sending unit, first run the engine until

it
has had time enough to warm up.
If
no reading is indicated on the
gauge,
check the
sending unit to
gauge
wire by removing the wire

from
the sending unit and momentarily grounding
the wire. If the
gauge
now indicates, the sending

unit
is faulty. If the
gauge
still
does
not indicate, the wire is defective.
Repair
or replace the wire,

a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

The
thermo-couple coolant temperature sending
unit
is mounted in the right
rear
of the cylinder head (Fig. G-8) and is connected by a single wire
to the dash unit of the instrument cluster. 166

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
G-8—TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT- HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
1—Temperature
Sending Unit

b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

The
thermo-couple coolant sending unit is mounted
in
the left
rear
area of the intake manifold and is
connected by a single wire to the dash unit of
the instrument cluster.

G-ll.
WATER PUMP

a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

The
water pump on the
Hurricane
F4
engine
is a

centrifugal
impeller type of large capacity to
cir­

culate water in the entire cooling system. The double row
ball
bearing (Fig. G-9), is integral with
the shaft and is packed at assembly with a special
high melting point grease which
will
last the life of
the bearing. The bearing is sealed to retain the
lubricant
and prevent
dirt
and dust from entering.

The
bearing and shaft are retained in the water
pump body by the bearing retaining wire. The
water
seal bears against the ground seat on the
pump body and the inside of the impeller, maintain­
ing a constant pressure against both and preventing

water
leakage. A
drain
hole
in the
bottom
of the
pump body precludes any water
seepage
past the

seal
from entering the bearing.
The
impeller and the pulley hub are pressed on
the shaft under high pressure,
b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

A
centrifugal-type water pump, shown in
Fig.
G-10,

circulates
coolant through the Dauntless V-6
engine

and
its cooling system.
This
pump is mounted on
the timing chain cover.
Similar
to the
engine
cooling
fan
mounted on its hub, the pump is driven through
a
V-belt from the crankshaft pulley.

Coolant
enters the water pump at its center.
Centri­

fugal force then forces coolant radially outward, through vanes of the pump impeller, and backward
through two discharge passages in the timing chain cover. These passages conduct an equal amount of
coolant to each cylinder bank water jacket.
This

water
pump has a sealed double row
ball
bearing
and
a ceramic water seal, neither of which can be

serviced.
In
event
of bearing or water seal failure, the entire water pump assembly must be replaced.
G-l2.
Water
Pump Inspection

Check
the water pump for leaks, and excessive end play or
looseness
of the shaft in the pump. A

quick
way to check is to work the fan blades up
and
down by hand. If any play is noticed, this
indicates that the bearings are rough. Rough bear­ings should be checked to see if the water pump
should be replaced or rebuilt.

G-13.
Water Pump
Disassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.

a.
Remove the fan belt, fan blades, and fan pulley.

b.
Remove the
bolts
attaching the water pump
to the block. Remove the pump.

c.
Remove the bearing retainer spring.

d.
Remove the pump impeller and pulley with a suitable puller.

e.
Remove the pump seal, bearing and shaft, and

bearing
slinger.

G-l4.
Water Pump Reassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.
Before assembling the water pump, examine water
seal
seat in the pump body and should it be rough,

install
a new pump body.

To
reassemble the unit, insert the long end of the shaft into the pump body from the front end until
the outer end of the bearing is flush against the

FIG.
G-9—WATER
PUMP-
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Fan
and Pump Pulley
2—
Bearing
and Shaft

3—
Bearing
Retainer Spring

A—Pipe
Plug 5—
Pump
Body
6—
Seal
Washer 7—
Pump
Seal
8—
Impeller

9—
Gasket
167

G
COOLING SYSTEM G-20.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY

Overheating:
Lack
of Coolant Refill radiator
Thermostat inoperative . Replace thermostat
Water
pump inoperative. Overhaul or replace
Incorrect
ignition or valve timing. Set
engine
timing
Excessive piston blowby Check pistons, rings and cylinder walls
Fan
belt
broken or badly worn Replace
belt

Radiator
clogged
Reverse flush and clean
Air
passages
in core
clogged
Clean with water and air pressure
Excessive carbon formation. Remove carbon from cylinder head(s) Muffler
clogged
or
bent
exhaust
pipe
Replace damaged part

Loss
of Cooling
Liquid:
Loose
hose
connections
Tighten
connections

Damaged
hose
Replace
hose

Leaking
water pump Overhaul or replace

Leak
in radiator Remove and repair
Leaky
cylinder head
gasket
Replace
gasket
Crack
in cylinder block. Small crack can be closed with
Radiator
or Block Sealer

G-21. COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

Radiator
Cap:
Relief
Pressure

Vacuum
Valve Release.
Thermostat:
Rating

Starts to Open

Fully
Open

Water
Pump:
Type.

Drive

Radiator:

Type

Cooling System Capacity: Without Heater

With
Heater..

Fan:
Number of Blades Diameter

Drive
Belt: Angle of V

Length
Width
HURRICANE
F4
7 and 15 psi. [0,5 kg-cm2 and 1,05 kg cm2]
lA to 1 psi. [0,04 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

190°F.
[87,8°C]
180°F.
[82°C]

202°F.
[94°C]

Centrifugal
V-Belt

Tube
8s Fin
11 qt. [10,4 ltr.] 12 qt. [11,5 ltr.]
15" [38 cm.]
38°

42%" [108 cm.] [1,74 cmJ
DAUNTLESS
V-6 15 psi. [1,05 kg-cm2]
1 psi. [0,07 kg-cm2]

190°F.
[87,8°C]
180°F.
[82°C]

202°F.
[94°C]

Centrifugal
V-Belt

Tube
& Fin
9 qt. [8.5 ltr.]
10 qt. [9,4 ltr.]
4

\SbA"
[39,7 cm.]

38°

43.92"
[111,5
cm.] Vg"
[0.952
cm.] G-22. ANTIFREEZE CHERT

Quarts
i
Quarts
Ethylene Glycol

U.S.
Imperial
Liters
Fahr.
Cent.

10-Quart
System

2
m
2

16°
-
8.8°

3
2V2
2%
4°

-15.5°

4
3H
-12°

-24.4°

5 4M -34°

-36.6°

6
5

5Vs
-62°

-52.2°

11-Quart
System

2 2

18° -
7.6°

3 2H
2%
8°

-13.3°

4
3%
-
6°

:
-21.10

5 4M 4M -23°

-30.5°

6
5

SVs
-47°

-43.8°

12-Quart
System

2
1 m 2 1

19° ;
- 7.2°

3
2*A
10°
!
-12.2°

4
I
3H
3M 0°
;
-17.7°

5 !
4M 4^ :
-15°

s
-26.1°

6 1 5
5%
-34°

-36.6°
170

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
H

FIG.
H-52—MAIN
LIGHT SWITCH (LATE)
1—
Circuit
Breaker

2—
Light
Switch

3—
Rear
Lights

4—
Head
Lights
5—
Parking
Lights
The
light switch shown in
Fig.
H-51 was superseded
by the one shown in
Fig.
H-52.

H-127.
Headlight Dimmer Switch To
remove the headlight dimmer switch, first raise
the hood and disconnect the wires attached to the

switch.
Then
remove the two screws that hold the

dimmer
switch to the floor board. Remove the

switch.
Check
the operation of the dimmer switch

with
a
test
light. A
circuit
across two different pairs of contacts (one to headlights, the other to the
high-beam indicator light) should alternately light
the
test
lamp when the switch is operated.
H-128.
Stop Light Switch
The
stop
light switch is of the diaphragm type.

Should
the switch
become
inoperative, it is neces­

sary
to install a new one.
Current
production vehicles are equipped with two
stop
light switches
that operate independently of each other. Both
switches are located along the
left
side of frame, in the front and
rear
brake lines.

Caution:
Do not apply the brakes while making
this exchange as air may enter the hydraulic line.
Bleed
the brakes after replacing the switch.

Fig.
H-54 shows the wiring of the
stop
light
circuit.
11500

FIG.
H-53—STOP
LIGHT SWITCH
FIG.
H-54—STOP
LIGHT CIRCUIT

1— Stop
Light
Switch
2—
Light
Switch

3—
Tail
Light
H-129. Head Lamp Service

H-130.
Head Lamp Replacement

Refer
to Fig. H-59.

Each
sealed beam head lamp can only be replaced as a
complete
unit.

A
sealed beam unit may be replaced by the fol­ lowing procedure:

a.
Remove door screw.

b.
Remove door.

c.
Remove retaining screws and retaining
ring.

d.
Remove sealed beam unit.
Installation
of sealed beam unit is the reverse of
above procedure. When replacing head lamps,

check
lamp aim following procedures described in

Par.
H-132.

FIG.
H-55—PARKING
LIGHT (EARLY)

1—
Bezel

2—
Lens

3—
Bulb

4—
Gasket
5—
Housing
and Cable

6—
Screw
213

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

14385

FIG.
H-61—BACK-UP
LIGHT
1—
Snap
Ring
2—
Lens

3—
Gasket

4—
Bulb
5—
Housing
and
Cable
On
late production
T14A
transmissions the backup
light switch is threaded into the right
rear
corner
of the cover housing and is activated by the move­
ment of the reverse shift
rail.

The
backup light switch is not serviceable and
must be replaced if defective.

Bulbs
can be replaced by removing the snap
ring,

lens and gasket from the assembly.

H-136.
License Plate
Light

On
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A
and current production vehicles
the license plate light is attached to the tailgate
and
is of the swing-type design to enable the
license plate to be visible when the tailgate is in
the down psoition. The bulb can be changed by
removing
the clear plastic lens. On early production
vehicles the license plate light is integral with the

tail
light assembly.

H-137.
Horn
The
horn is mounted under the hood on the
left

front
fender. The horn is sounded by pressing the
button located at the top center of the steering
wheel.

To
remove the horn wire, disconnect the wire at
the snap connection at the base of the steering
column.
Pull
off the rubber horn button cap and
the brass contact cap from the steering wheel nut.

This
will
expose
the contact tip of the horn wire.

Pull
the wire out of the steering column from the top. Refer to Fig. H-62.

H-13S.
Directional
Signals

Fig.
H-63 shows the
wiring
of a
composite
direction­

al
signal
circuit.
The most frequent causes of
failure
in
the directional signal system are
loose
connec­
tions and burned-out bulbs. A flashing rate

approximately
twice the normal rate usually in­
dicates a burned-out bulb in the
circuit.
11087

FIG.
H-62—HORN
BUTTON 1—
Cap
2— Nut
3—
Horn
Button
Spring
Cup 4—
Ferrule

5—
Horn
Cable

6—
Contact
Disc

7—
Steering
Wheel
8—
Cup
9—
Bearing
Spring
Seat
10—
Steering
Column

11—
Tube

12—
Bearing

13—
Bearing
Spring

14—
Horn
Button
Spring

15—
Retainer
Spring
When
trouble in the signal switch is suspected it
is advisable to make the following
test
to definitely
locate the trouble before
going
to the effort of

removing
the signal switch. If, for example, the
right
rear
stop
light and right front parking light

are
inoperative and switch failure is indicated, first put the control lever in neutral position.
Then

disconnect the wire to the right side
circuit
and
touch it to or bridge it to the
"L"
terminal, thus
by-passing the signal switch. If the right side cir- 10609

FIG.
H-63—DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL
CIRCUIT

1—
Flasher

2—
Ignition
Switch

3—
Control
4—
Light
Switch
5— Stop
Light
Switch
216