battery JEEP CJ 1953 Owner's Guide

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
13406

FIG.
H-39—STARTING
CIRCUIT

1—
Ground
Cable
2—
Battery

3—
Positive Cable
4—
Alternator
Wire
5—
Alternator

6— Ignition Switch
Wire

H-93.
Maintenance Procedure

A
periodic inspection should be made of the start­ ing circuit. Since the interval
between
these
checks

will
vary according to the type of service, it should, under normal conditions, be made every 500 hours
of operation. Inspect all starting circuit wiring for damage.
Check
for
loose
or corroded terminals and
for dependable operation of the starting motor.

H-94.
Wiring

Refer
to Fig. H-39. Inspect the starting circuit to make sure that all
connections are clean and tight.
Check
for worn or damaged insulation on the wires. Perform a volt­

age-loss
test
to make sure there is no
loss
of start­ ing motor efficiency resulting from high resistance
connections. Voltage
loss
from the battery ter­
minal
to the starting motor terminal should not
exceed .30 volts for each 100 amperes. Voltage
loss
between
the battery ground
post
and the start­ing motor frame should not exceed .10 volts for
each 100 amperes. If the
voltage
loss
is greater
than
these
limits, measure the
voltage
loss
over
each part of the circuit until the resistance causing the
voltage
loss
is located and corrected.

H-95.
Commutator
Sluggish starting motor operation may be caused by a dirty commutator or worn brushes. The com­mutator cannot be cleaned while the. starting motor is mounted on the
engine
and it
will
be necessary
to remove it and proceed as for an overhaul. Should 7— Ignition Switch
8— Solenoid
Wire

9—
Starter

10— Solenoid
11—
Connector
Strap
the commuator be rough or worn, it should be
removed for cleaning and reconditioning.
H-96.
Overhaul Procedure

At
periodic intervals the starting motor circuit
should be thoroughly checked and the motor re­ moved from the
engine
for cleaning and checking.

H-97.
Removal and Disassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
To
remove the starting motor from the engine, dis­
connect the leads and cover the battery lead ter­

minal
with a piece of
hose
or tape to prevent short

circuiting.
Remove the flange
bolts
holding the starting motor to the flywheel housing. Remove
the starting motor from the vehicle.

Each
part of the starting motor should be removed, cleaned, and inspected for evidence of wear or
damage. The Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive should be
cleaned and inspected for evidence of wear or a distorted spring. Bearings should be checked for
proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be
free of oil and in
good
condition. The armature,
field coils, and brushes should be checked for
good
ground and lack of open circuits.

H-98.
Brushes

a.
The brushes should slide freely in their holders
and
make full contact on the commutator. Worn
brushes should be replaced.
b.
Check
brush spring tension with a spring scale.
Hook the scale under the brush spring near the 203

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
require
a slight rotation of the pinion to index it
into the ring gear. When the
engine
starts the drive
pinion
will
automatically demesh from the ring
gear and return to its normal position.
H-107. Starter Solenoid Switch (Prestolite)
•
Refer to
Figs.
H-44 and H-45.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the
starting switch contacts due to corrosion or
burn­

ing.
Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage

at the battery terminals and that at the starting 13407

FIG.
H-44—STARTER SOLENOID—HURRICANE
F4
FIG.
H-46—PRESTOLITE STARTER
AND SOLENOID—V-6 ENGINE
switch terminals. The
voltage
drop should not
exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
Should
it be impossible to file the switch contact
plates to obtain a clean
full
surface contact the
switch should be replaced.
Current
model starting switches are of the
solenoid type, mounted directly on the starting
motors.
This
type switch is energized by turning
the ignition key to the extreme right position.

Should
a solenoid switch
fail
in service it is neces­

sary
to install a new solenoid assembly,
a.
To remove the solenoid switch first remove the nut and lock washer securing the solenoid strap to the starter
post.
Then
remove nut and lock washer securing battery positive cable to solenoid
post.

Tape
end of battery cable to eliminate the pos- 207

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR
—
DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-111.
Brushes

Check
brush length. If brushes are worn to one-

half
their original length, replace them. Also check
for
cracks,
chips, damaged mounting holes, oil

saturation,
or other damage; replace brushes.

H-112.
Commutator

Check
the commutator for wear and discoloration.
If
the commutator is rough or worn the armature
should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride and inspected.

Scratches
on the commutator may be removed

with
sand paper. Use compressed air to remove

sand
particles after cleaning.

H-113.
Armature

Visually
inspect the armature for mechanical

defects
before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of
test
probes for testing armature

circuits.
To
test
the armature for grounds, touch
one point of the
test
probes to a commutator
seg­
ment and touch the other point to the core or shaft.
Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed
will
burn
the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil con­
nected to the commutator
segment
is grounded.

H-114.
Field
Coils

Using
test
probes, check the field coils for both ground and open circuits. To
test
for ground, place
one probe on the motor frame or
pole
piece and
touch the other probe to the field coil terminals.
If
a ground is present, the lamp
will
light.

To
test
for open circuits, place the probes on the
field coil terminal and on an insulated
brush.
If
the light
does
not light, the coil is open circuited.

H-115.
Brush
Holder Inspection

Inspect
brush
holders for distortion, wear, and other
damage.
Check
that brush holders pivot freely on

their
pivot pins.
Check
brush spring tension with

a
spring scale. Hook the spring scale under the
brush
holder at the brush and
pull
on a line
paral­

lel
to the side of the
brush.
Note
scale reading just
as brush leaves commutator. Tension must be 35 oz. [9,925 kg.] minimum. Replace brush springs
if
tension is insufficient.

H-116.
Solenoid
Coils

Check
solenoid coil as follows:

a.
Remove screw from motor terminal of solenoid

and
bend field coil leads away from terminal.
Con­
nect terminal to ground with a heavy jumper wire.
See
Fig.
H-48.

b.
Connect a 12-volt battery, a high-current
vari­

able resistance, and an ammeter of 100 amperes

capacity
in series
between
S terminal of solenoid

and
ground; battery negative is to be connected
to ground. Connect a heavy jumper wire from
solenoid base to ground terminal of battery.
Con­

nect a voltmeter
between
base of solenoid and

small
S terminal of solenoid. Refer to Fig. H-48.
12455

FIG.
H-48—TEST CONNECTIONS,
STARTER
SOLENOID
COIL
1— S
Terminal

2—
Solenoid

3—
Ground
Connection 4—Voltmeter 5—Ammeter
6—
12-Volt
Battery
7—
Ground
Connection*
c.
Slowly decrease resistance until voltmeter
read­

ing increases to 10 volts.
Note
ammeter reading.

This
is current drawn by both windings in
parallel
;

it
should be 42 to 49 amperes at 10 volts, with solenoid at room temperature.

d.
Disconnect jumper wire from motor terminal
of solenoid. Increase resistance until voltmeter

reads
10 volts;
note
ammeter reading.
This
is
cur­

rent
drawn by hold-in winding only; it should be 10.5 to 12.5 amperes at 10 volts, with solenoid at
room temperature.
e. If solenoid windings do not rest within specifi­ cations given, replace solenoid switch assembly.

H-117.
Starting Motor Reassembly

a.
Lubricate
shift lever linkage and fasten in drive housing with lever stud.

Caution:
Do not lubricate solenoid plunger or solenoid cylinder.

b.
Install
return spring on solenoid plunger and

insert
plunger into solenoid cylinder. Apply sealing
compound on both sides of solenoid flange where it

extends
between
drive housing and field frame.

Attach
plunger to shift lever with fulcrum pin.

Fasten
solenoid to drive housing with two mount­
ing screws.

c.
Lubricate
armature shaft with silicone grease.
Install
assist spring and drive assembly on shaft

with
pinion outward.

d.
Install
pinion
stop
retainer on armature shaft

with
recessed side outward. Place a new snap ring on drive end of shaft and hold it in place with a
hard
wood block. Strike block with hammer to
force snap ring over end of shaft; slide the ring
down into
groove
in shaft. See Fig. H-49, left hand view. 209

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
FIG.
H-49—INSTALLING PINION
STOP RETAINER AND THRUST

COLLAR
ON ARMATURE SHAFT
1—
Retainer

2—
Snap
Ring

3—
Thrust
Collar

4—
Drive
Assembly 5—
Retainer

6—
Groove
in Armature Shaft 7—
Snap
Ring

e. Place thrust collar on armature shaft with shoulder next to snap
ring.
Move the retainer
into contact with
ring.
Using pliers on
opposite

sides of shaft,
squeeze
retainer and thrust collar

together
until snap ring is forced into the retainer.
See Fig. H-49, right hand view.

f.
Lubricate
bearing of drive housing with silicone grease and install armature and drive assembly
in
housing.
g. If field coils were removed from field frame, position coils of replacement field coil assembly
on
pole
shoes
and mount each
pole
shoe
in field
frame
with a
pole
shoe
screw. Use care in tighten­ ing screws to avoid distortion of parts. Be certain
that screws are securely tightened. Insert ends of
field
coil
leads through rubber bushing in field
frame.

h.
Position field frame assembly over armature as­
sembly so that its dowel pin
engages
the
hole
in

drive
housing. Use care to prevent damage to brushes and brush holders. Make sure that brushes

are
properly sealed on commutator.

i.
Install
leather thrust washer on commutator end
of armature assembly.
Lubricate
bearing in com­
mutator end frame with silicone grease and position
end frame to field frame so that armature shaft
enters bearing. Secure field frame and end frame
to drive housing with two
thru
bolts. Connect field leads to motor terminal of solenoid with connect­ing nut.

j.
Whenever the starting motor is disassembled
and
reassembled, the pinion clearance should be
checked.
This
is to make sure that proper clear­
ance exists
between
the pinion and the pinion

stop
retainer when pinion is in cranking position.

Lack
of clearance would prevent solenoid starter

switch
from closing properly; too much clearance
would cause improper pinion
engagement
in ring gear.

k.
Supply 6 volts (3 battery cells or a
6-volt
bat­

tery)
between
S terminal of the solenoid and ground (starter frame).
Caution:
Do not supply more than 6 volts or the
motor
will
operate. As a further precaution to
prevent motor operation, connect a heavy jumper

wire
from the solenoid motor terminal to ground.

I.
After energizing the solenoid, push the drive as­
sembly away from the
stop
retainer as far as pos­
sible and use a feeler
gauge
to check clearance

between
pinion and retainer. See Fig. H-50. If pinion clearance is not .010" to .140" [0,25 a 3,55

mm.],
there is either excessive wear or improper as­
sembly of solenoid linkage or shift lever mechanism.
12771
FIG.
H-50—MEASURING PINION CLEARANCE
1—
Press
Rearward

2—
Pinion

3—
Retainer

4— .010* to .140* Clearance 5—
Feeler
Gauge
210

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
Note:
Pinion clearance cannot be adjusted. If
clearance is not correct, motor must be disassem­
bled and checked for the above mentioned defects.

Any
defective parts must be replaced.
H-118. Starting Motor Test —
Genera!

To
obtain
full
performance data on a starting motor, or to determine the cause of abnormal
operation, the motor should be submitted to no-
load and locked armature
tests,
with equipment designed for such
tests.
A high-current variable resistance is required to obtain the specified volt­
age at the starting motor.
This
is necessary since
a
small variation in the
voltage
will
produce a
marked
difference in the current
drawn.

H-119.
Starting Motor No-Load Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter capable of
read­

ing
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC ammeter

with
maximum range of several hundred amperes,
a
high-current variable resistance, an rpm. in­

dicator,
and a fully-charged, 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal
and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid.
Con­
nect voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (positive) and motor frame (negative, ground).

Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series

between
positive terminal of battery and battery

terminal
of solenoid. Set up rpm. indicator to show starting motor speed.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to a value of
approximately .25 ohm. To complete the
circuit,

connect negative terminal of battery to motor

frame.
Adjust variable resistance to obtain a volt­ meter reading of 10.6 volts;
note
speed of starting motor and ammeter reading. Motor speed should
be
6750
to
10,500
rpm.; ammeter reading should
be 50 to 80 amperes.
c. Rated speed and current indicate normal condi­
tion of the starting motor. Low speed and high
cur­
rent
may show friction; this could be caused by
tight, dirty, or worn bearings, bent armature shaft,

or
a
loose
field
pole
shoe
dragging against the

armature.
It could also be caused by a short-cir­ cuited armature, or by grounded armature or field
coils.

d.
Failure
to operate and high current indicates

a
direct short circuit to ground at either the battery

terminal
or field coils.
e.
Failure
to operate and no current are usually
caused by broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation
between
commutator
bars,
or
some
other
condition preventing
good
contact
between
the brushes and commutator. It can also be caused by
open circuit in either the field coils or armature coils.
f. Low speed and low current show high resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty com­
mutator, or one of the conditions mentioned in e,
above.
g. High speed and high current indicates a short
circuit
in the field coils. H-120-
Locked
Armature Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter with range ap­

propriate
to read
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC
ammeter with maximum range of several hundred
amperes, a high-current variable resistance, a
clamping fixture to lock
together
the motor shaft

and
case, and a fully-charged 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid. Connect
voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (posi­
tive) and motor frame (negative, ground). Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series
between
positive terminal of battery and battery terminal
of solenoid.
Install
clamping fixture to lock motor
shaft and case
together
securely.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to approxi­
mately .05 ohm. To complete the
circuit,
connect
negative terminal of battery to motor frame. Ad­

just
variable resistance to obtain a voltmeter
read­
ing of 4.0 volts. Ammeter reading should be 280
to 320 amperes.

H-121.
Solenoid Starter Switch — Delco

The
solenoid-type switch is mounted directly on
the starting motor.
This
type of switch is energized
by turning the ignition key to the extreme right position. Should the solenoid switch
fail
in service

it
is necessary to install a new assembly.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the

starter
switch contacts due to corrosion or burning.

Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage
at the
battery across the terminals. The
voltage
drop
should not exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
In
order to remove the starter solenoid, it is neces­

sary
to remove the starter assembly.

H-122.
ELECTRICAL
INSTRUMENTS

H-123.
Fuel
Gauge —
CJ-3B

The
fuel
gauge
circuit is composed of the indicating

unit,
mounted on the instrument panel, and the
fuel tank unit, connected by a single wire through the ignition switch.

Should
the
gauge
fail
to register, check all wire con­ nections to be sure they are tight and clean; also
be sure both units are well grounded. If, after this
check, the
gauge
does
not indicate properly, remove
the wire from the tank unit and connect it to a
new tank unit which must be grounded to the tank

or
frame for
test.
Turn
the ignition switch "ON"
and
move
the float arm through its range of travel,
watching the dash unit to determine if it indicates
correctly.
If it fails to do so the trouble is probably

in
the dash unit and it should be replaced.

Should
a new tank unit be unavailable for this
test,
disconnect tank unit wire at the instrument panel

gauge.
Connect one lead of a 12 V, 1 CP
test
light
to the instrument panel unit terminal and with the
ignition switch
"ON"
ground the other lead. If the
unit is operating correctly the pointer
will
move

approximately three-quarter across the
dial.
Do not attempt to repair either unit; replacement
is the only precedure. 211

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges

Two
gauges
(fuel and temperature) and two in­ dicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically operated.

The
fuel
gauge
is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.

The
temperature
gauge
is connected by a single

wire
to a resistance-type sending unit mounted on the engine.

The
battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential
between
the generator
and
the battery
.The
battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator
light
goes
out when the generator
begins

to charge the battery.

The
oil pressure indicator is connected by a single

wire
to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When
engine
oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator
will

light. When
engine
speed is increased slightly above idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately 6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm2], the diaphragm switch
will
open the circuit and the indicator light
will
go out.

A
voltage
regulator maintains a constant
voltage
to the
gauges
in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this
voltage
regulator was mounted on the
rear
of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage
regulator is integral with the fuel
gauge.

Should
trouble
develop
in the
gauges,
first check the regulator (fuel
gauge
on current production vehicle). If the
voltage
to the regulator is below 10 volts system low
gauge
readings
will
result.
Voltage in
excess
of 16 volts
will
not affect
gauge

readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. If the
voltage
to the regulator is

within
the above limits, check the electrical con­ nections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. If the readings of all the
gauges
is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).

If
the temperature
gauge
or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against the instrument case.
Check
the jumper bar
between

the temperature
gauge
and heat indicator at the

rear
of the instrument case. On later production vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an in­
sulating
sleeve
to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. If the jumper bar

does
not have this
sleeve,
either install one or

wrap
the bar with plastic electrical tape to
half

an
inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing the jumper bar, be sure the curved
segment
is
closest to the fuel
gauge.

Should
only one of the two
gauges
register incor­
rectly,
check the lead wire from the
gauge
to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next disconnect the
gauge
from the sending unit, and
connect the
gauge
to a new fuel tank sending unit

which
has been grounded to the vehicle.
If
the
gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the
gauge;
if correctly, replace the sending

unit.

Should
a new fuel tank unit not be available for testing, use a 12-volt
test
light in its place. When
the
gauge
is operating correctly, the pointer
will

move
approximately three-quarters across the
dial.

On
some
vehicles, the temperature
gauge
may
register on or
close
to the H (hot)
mark
when
coolant temperature is
190°F.
to
200°F.
[88°C.
a

93°C.].
In such cases, a 25-ohm,
1-watt
resistor
may be installed on the temperature
gauge
which

will
place the pointer just beyond the center
mark
at a coolant temperature of
190°F.
to
200°F.
Install

the resistor
between
the two terminals on the back
of the
gauge.
Insulate the
exposed
leads of the resistor with electrical tape.

If
the oil pressure indicator
does
not indicate cor­

rectly,
first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible

defects
are corrected, the indicator light
does
not go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.

H-12S.
LIGHTING SYSTEM The
wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The
wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when check­
ing individual circuits.

The
lighting circuits of all models are protected by

an
overload circuit breaker mounted on the back of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.

The
upper and lower headlight beams are con­
trolled by a
foot
switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126.
Main
Light
Switch

This
switch is a dual functioning unit having two

push-pull
positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and
tail
lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail
lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.

The
switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut may then be removed and the switch removed
through the
rear
of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN
LIGHT
SWITCH
(EARLY)

1—
Battery
4—Parking Lights
2—
Rear
Lights 5—Auxiliary

3—
Head
Lights
212

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
cuit
lights,
the
signal switch
is
inoperative
and

must
be
replaced.

H-139.
Hazard
Warning Lights

All
current production vehicles
are
equipped with

a
four-way flasher warning system.
The
control switch
is
located
on the
instrument panel left
of

the steering column.
With
the
switch pulled
out,
the
two
front and
two
rear
turn
signal lights flash
on and
off
simultaneously,
as do
both
turn
signal

indicator
lights
on the
instrument clusters.
H-140.
Marker
Lights and Reflector Assembly

The
marker
lights
and
reflector assemblies
on

current
production vehicles
are
mounted
on the

side
of
the front fender and
on the
side
of
the
rear
quarter
panel.
The
spare wheel also mounts
a

marker
light. Some earlier production vehicles have
reflex reflectors mounted on the side of the hood and
on
the
side
of
the
rear
quarter panel. determine
if
dash wiper switch or wiring
is at
fault,
disconnect wiring harness from wiper motor
and

try
operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If
still
inoperative
see
procedure under
Par.
H-145.
b. Wiper
will
not
shut
off
— Determine
if
wiper
has both
low
and high speeds, slow speed only,
or

high speed only.
It is
important that
the
wiper
operates
at low
speed during parking cycle.
Dis­
connect wiring harness from wiper motor
and try

operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If

wiper
shuts
off
correctly with
crank
arm
in
park
position and wiper has both speeds, check
the
lead

between
terminal
and
dash switch ground
and

check
for
defective dash switch.
If
wiper shuts
off

correctly,
but has
high speed only, check lead
be­

tween wiper terminal and dash switch
for an
open

circuit
and check
for
defective dash switch.
If
still

inoperative,
see
Par. H-145.
c. Wiper
has
only fast speed.
Check
for
defective dash switch
or
open lead
between
terminal
and

dash switch.

H-141.
Windshield Wiper System

Early
production vehicles equipped with
the
Dauntless V-6
engine
have
two
single speed wind­
shield wiper motors mounted above
the
windshield inside
the
vehicle. The wiper motors
are
operated

and
controlled
by a
switch located
on the
instru­
ment panel.

Current
production vehicles with stationary wind­
shield have
a
two-speed
electric windshield wiper motor mounted below
the
windshield outside
the

vehicle on the driver's side. The wiper motor switch is located
on the
instrument panel
to the
left
of

the steering column.

H-142.
Two-Speed Wiper Motor

The
two-speed
electric wiper motor
is
operated and
controlled
by a
turn
type, three poled, dash switch,
containing
a 6
amp. circuit breaker.
Current
flow
is directed from
the
battery through
the
ignition
switch
to the
wiper dash switch assembly
to the

two-speed
wiper motor, which passes current from the designated motor brush (high,
low or
park)
to

the armature circuit
to
ground.

H-143.
Troubleshooting Procedure
Troubleshooting procedures
are
divided into
two

categories: wiper troubleshooting
in
vehicle; wiper
troubleshooting
on
bench.
Fig. H-65 and H-66

illustrates connecting leads
of the
two-speed
wiper for either bench operation
or to run
wiper inde­
pendently
of
dash switch and vehicle wiring when
installed
in the
vehicle.
H-144. Wiper Troubleshooting
in
Vehicle

Typical
wiper troubles and remedies are
as
follows
:

a.
Wiper
is
inoperative
—
Check
wiper switch
cir­

cuit
breaker; wiring harness connection
at
wiper
motor
and
wiper switch; wiper motor
feed
wire

from
ignition starter switch
to
wiper switch;
and
check wiper
on
switch
to be
securely mounted.

With
ignition switch
on,
check
for 12
volts
at
har­

ness
terminal that connects
to
wiper terminal.
To
BLACK
PARK

GREEN *-
RED m~
LOW
PARKING
<^^>

SWITCH
V^-O*'
HIGH

FIG.
H-64—WIRING
DIAGRAM

FIG.
H-65—WINDSHIELD
WIPER
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
(EARLY)
1.
Park
(black)
2. Low (green)

3.
High (red)
d.
Wiper
has
only slow speed
and
shuts
off
with
dash switch in high speed position. Reverse harness
leads that connect
to
wiper terminals.

e. If
blades
do not
return
to
park
position when

wiper
is
turned
off,
check wiper ground connection
to vehicle body. Remove wiper from vehicle
and

check
for
dirty, bent,
or
broken
park
switch con­
tacts.

f.
If
wiper speed
is
normal
in
slow,
but too ex­
cessive
in
fast speed, check for an open terminal. 217

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-66—WINDSHIELD
WIPER SWITCH ASSEMBLY (LATE)
B—Battery

1—
Wiper
1 La
Speed
2—
Wiper
1 Hi
Speed

3—
Wiper
2 Lo
Speed

4—Wiper
2 Hi
Speed
5— Park
g. If wiper operates erratically, check for
loose

wiper
ground connection or
loose
dash switch mounting.

H-145.
Wiper Troubleshooting on Bench

Using
ammeter, capable of reading at least 30
amperes, check
feed
wire circuit for open circuit.

a.
If wiper is inoperative, connect wiper to operate
in
low speed and observe current draw. If the read­
ing is zero amp., check for
loose
solder connection
at wiper terminal or
loose
splice joints. If reading is
1
to 1.5 amp., check for open armature, sticking
brushes, or
loose
splice joint. If reading is 11 amp.,
check for broken gear seized shaft or
some
other
condition that
will
stall the wiper.
b. If wiper
will
not shut off, this condition may
exist if wiper has one or both speeds. If wiper has both speeds, check for
park
switch contacts not
opening or internal wiper motor lead that connects to wiper terminal being grounded. If wiper has low
speed only, check for internal wiper motor lead that connects to wiper terminal being grounded. If

wiper
has high speed only, check for
internal
wiper motor lead that connects to wiper terminal being
open.

c.
If wiper
crank
arm
does
not return to
park

position when wiper is turned off, check for dirty, bent to broken
park
switch contacts.

d.
If wiper operates erratically, check for sticky
brushes or
loose
splice joints.
e. If the wiper
will
not shut off, or wiper
crank
arm
fails to
stop
in
park
position when jumper wire is
removed from terminal, check that
park
switch contacts are opening. Also check for ground in in­

ternal
motor lead that connects to terminal.
f-
Remove fastening screws, cover plate assembly

and
gasket.
g. Remove parking plate and gear assembly.

h.
Remove parking brushes, spring and bowed
washer from gear assembly.

i.
Remove the two through
bolts
and mounting

bracket.

j.
Remove the magnet housing, armature and end cap as an assembly.

k.
Tap end of armature shaft to
loosen
end cap
assembly and remove cap from armature shaft. Be
careful
not to
lose
thrust disc, which is in end cap
bearing bore.

I.
Remove armature from magnet housing.
Care

should be taken to protect armature shaft bearing

journals.

m.
Remove brushes and brush spring from brush
holders.

H-147.
Cleaning
of
Two-Speed
Wiper
Motor

a.
Clean
magnet housing and
armature
with a cloth dampened in cleaning solvent.

b.
The following bearing equipped parts should

not
be immersed in cleaning fluid: 1. Cover plate assembly.
2.
Gear
housing assembly.

3.
End cap assembly.

The
metal surfaces of
these
assemblies should be cleaned with a brush dipped in cleaning solvent,

making
certain that cleaning fluid
does
not contact bearings.

c.
Clean
remaining parts with a brush and cleaning
solvent.

H-148.
Reassembly
of
Two-Speed
Wiper
Motor

Refer
to Fig. H-67.
To
reassemble motor, reverse the
steps
given in

Par.
H-146.
When
reassembling motor, fingers must be clean
when handling brushes. Hold brushes in the holders by applying paper clips to brush shunts. Apply a
light film of lubricant to armature shaft ends,
armature
worm gear and gear assembly shaft ends.
Remove paper clips after assembling armature to gear housing. Align marks on magnet housing and
gear housing. Armature end play should be .002 -
.010".

Be
sure to operate wiper to
park
position prior to installing drive arm.

H-146.
Disassembly
of
Two-Speed Wiper Motor

Refer
to Fig. H-67.

a.
Remove windshield wiper motor cover.
b.
Disconnect drive arm from wiper linkage.

c.
Disconnect wiring from wiper dash switch.

d.
Remove wiper motor.

e.
Loosen drive arm hardware and pry drive off
drive
shaft.
H-149.
No
Load
Testing

Test
the motor to
meet
the following specifications:

LOW SPEED HIGH SPEED

Ampere Ampere

Draw Draw

R.P.M.
(Max.)
R.P.M.
(Max.)
42 2.75 62 3.75 218