wheel alignment JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 1953, Model line: CJ, Model: JEEP CJ 1953Pages: 376, PDF Size: 19.96 MB
Page 16 of 376
B
LUBRICATION
Note:
Hard
shifting of the transmission gear in
cold weather is a positive indication that the
lubri
cant
is of the wrong viscosity or of poor quality
which
allows it to congeal.
B-38.
Optional
4-Speed
Transmission
and
Transfer Case
The
four-speed transmission and transfer case re
quire
separate lubrication for each unit as
they
have no cross-over oil passage. At each transmission
service check, the
fill
plugs of
both
four-speed
transmission
and transfer case should be pulled
and
the lubricant refilled to level if necessary.
B-39.
Transfer
Case
Linkage
The
transfer case shift linkage should be lubricated
periodically.
All
bearing surfaces that are assembled
with
studs and cotter pins should be disassembled, cleaned, and coated with a
good
waterproof grease.
The
bearing surfaces that cannot be disassembled
should be lubricated with a lubricant that
will
penetrate the bearing
area.
These bearings include
the two on the cross shaft assembly and the
threaded stud.
The
type
of penetrating lubricant recommended is
DuPont
"PM 7", No. 2911, or its equivalent.
B-40.
Brake Master Cylinder
Clean
the top of the
fill
cap and also the housing
area
around it. Remove the cap and observe the
fluid
level. It should be
half
an inch
below
the top
of the fill-hole. If not, add brake fluid to
half
inch
[1,3 cm.]
below
the top of the fill-hole. Use
only heavy-duty brake fluid conforming to speci
fication
SAE-J-1703.
Be sure to handle the brake
fluid
in clean dispensers and containers that
will
not introduce even the
slightest
amount of other
liquids
or foreign particles. Replace and tighten
the
fill
cap.
B-41.
Adjust Brakes
Refer
to Section P.
B-42.
Brake Linings
Refer
to Section P.
B-43.
Adjust Clutch
Refer
to Section I.
B-44.
Clutch Cross Shaft (Lever Type)
Lubricate
the clutch cross shaft in accordance with
specifications given in the
Lubrication
chart: see
Item
1. Chassis Bearings.
B-45.
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets
The
tie rod and drag
link
sockets
are equipped
with
lubrication
fittings
and should be lubricated
per
specifications given in the
Lubrication
chart: see Item 1. Chassis Bearings.
B-46.
Front
and
Rear Spring
Bushings
The
condition of the spring bushings is indicated
by the alignment of the spring pivot and spring
shackle
bolts.
Check
the alignment of
these
bolts,
and
check that nuts are
tightened
securely.
B-47.
Spring
Shackles
Rubber
bushings are provided on the spring
shackles.
These rubber bushings have no lubrication
fitting and it is very important that
they
never be lubricated.
B-48.
Shock Absorbers
Visually
check for broken mounts or bolts, worn
or
missing bushings on the shock absorbers. Refer
to Section S.
B-49.
Front and
Rear
Axle
U-Bolts
Torque
the front and
rear
axle U-bolts. Refer to Section S.
B-50. Front
and
Rear
Axle
Differentials
—
Lubricant Levels
The
lubricant
level of all front and
rear
differentials should be at the level of the fill-hole.
B-51.
Front and
Rear
Axle
Differentials
—
Changing
Lubricant
B-52.
Conventional Differentials
To
remove the lubricant from the front or
rear
differential,
it is necessary to remove the housing cover. Let the lubricant
drain
out, and then flush
the differential with a flushing oil or light
engine
oil
to clean out the housing
(except
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differentials). Do not use water, steam,
kerosene, or
gasoline
for flushing.
Reinstall
the housing cover, replacing the gasket whenever necessary, torquing the cover
bolts
to 15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4 kg-m.].
Remove the filler plug, and
refill
the differential
housing as specified in the
Lubrication
Specifica
tions.
B-53.
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok Differential
Some vehicles may be equipped with the
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differential as optional equipment.
Special
lubricant and ordinary multipurpose gear
lubricants
must
not be used. Use only
'Jeep*
Differ
ential
Oil,
Part
No. 94557.
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
differentials may be cleaned
only by disassembling the unit and wiping with
clean
rags. Do not flush the unit. Refer to Sec
tion N.
B-54.
Front Axle Universal Joint
—
Lube
Check
the level of the front axle universal joint
lubricant
at each front wheel by removing the
fill-hole plug. The lubricant should be level with
the fill-hole. If required, add lubricant as specified
in
Lubrication
Specifications.
B-55.
Front
Axle
Universal
Joint
— Service
On
all 4-wheel drive vehicles the front axle
uni
versal
joint should be serviced by removing the shaft and thoroughly cleaning the universal joints
and
housing. For the correct procedures, refer to
Section M. 16
Page 34 of 376
TUNE-UP
C-29.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
POOR
FUEL ECONOMY Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck
Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted High Fuel Pump Pressure
Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel Pump Diaphragm Loose Engine Mounting Causing High Fuel Level in Carburetor
Low
Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad
Spark
Plug Cables Bad
Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance
Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes
Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer
Faulty
Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve
LACK
OF POWER
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor
or Fuel Pump
Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late
Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
LOW
COMPRESSION
Leaky
Valves Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
BURNED
VALVES AND SEATS Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Defective
Valve
Lifter
— Hydraulic
VALVES
STICKING
Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
OVERHEATING
Inoperative Cooling System
Theromstat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve — Dauntless V-6 Engine
POPPING-SPITTING-DETONATION
Improper Ignition Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in
Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Clogged
Fuel Filter Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
EXCESSIVE
OIL CONSUMPTION Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings
Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem
to Valve Guide (Intake)
Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-
Round or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
BEARING
FAILURE
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough
Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil
Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged
Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 34
Page 37 of 376
'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
D HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL...
D-l Description D-2
Engine
Ground Strap D-4
Engine
Mountings D-3
ENGINE REMOVAL
D-5
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
D-6
Camshaft
.......
D-28
Clutch
D-24
Crankshaft.
D-26
Crankshaft
Pulley. D-l2
Cylinder
Head. .D-17
Distributor.
.D-13
Exhaust
Manifold D-8
Exhaust
Valves and Springs D-2
7
Flywheel.
. D-25
Front
End Plate D-23
Oil
Filler
Tube D-9
Oil
Gallery Plugs D-30
Oil
Pan. . ...D-19
Oil
Pump D-l4
Piston and Connecting Rods. . . D-20
Ream
Cylinder Bore Ridges. D-l8
Rocker
Arm Assemblies D-l6 Thermostat D-ll
Timing
Gear
Cover . . D-21
Timing
Gears D-22
Valve
Tappets D-29
Ventilation Valve D-l5
Water
Outlet Fitting D-10
Water
Pump D-7
ENGINE INSPECTION
AND
REPAIR.
.D-31
Camshaft
and Bearings. D-51
Camshaft
End-Play
. . .D-53
Camshaft
Front Bearing Replacement..... D-52
Checking
Connecting Rod
Crank
Pins D-42
Checking
Crankshaft Alignment .
.
D-40
Checking
Main Bearing Journals. D-41
Cleaning.
. D-33 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection D-48
Connecting Rod Bearings D-47 Connecting Rod Side Play D-50
Core
Hole Expansion Plug D-72
Crankshaft
.
.
D-38, 39
Crankshaft
Main Bearing Inspection D-44
Crankshaft
Main Bearings D-43
Crankshaft
Rear
Bearing Seal D-63
Cylinder
Block D-32
Cylinder
Bores D-35
Cylinder
Head. . . D-73
Exhaust
Valve Seat Insert Replacement. .
.
D-60
Fitting
Crankshaft Main Bearings
Using
Plastigage
D-45
Fitting
Crankshaft Main Bearings
Using
Shim Stock D-46
Floating
Oil Intake D-64
Flywheel.
. . .D-67
Flywheel
Housing D-71
SUBJECT
FAR.
Flywheel
Inspection. D-6 8
Flywheel
Pilot Bushing D-70 Inspection D-3 4
Inspection of Valves, Springs and Guides. .D-57
Installing
Connecting Rod Bearings....... D-49
Oil
Pan D-66
Oil
Pump D-65
Piston Ring Application
Chart
D-3 7
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods..... D-36
Refacing
Valves
.
D-58
Ring
Gear
Replacement D-69
Rocker
Arm Shaft Disassembly. D-75, 76
Rocker
Arm Shaft Reassembly.
.
D-77
Rocker
Arms D-74
Tappets and Cover. . D-62
Timing
Gears and Cover D-54, 55
Valve
Guide Replacement D-61
Valve
Seat Inspection and Refacing D-59
Valve,
Springs and Guides D-56
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
D-78
Camshaft
and
Thrust
Plate .D-81
Camshaft
Timing
Gear
D-91
Check
Crankshaft
End-Play.
............D-83
Clutch.
...D-89
Crankshaft
and Bearings................ D-82
Crankshaft
Pulley D-96
Crankshaft
Rear
Bearing Seal.. .
.
D-85
Crankshaft
Timing
Gear
D-84
Cylinder
Head D-98
Distributor
D-l
00
Flywheel
®. . .. D-87
Flywheel
Housing D-88
Front
End Plate D-86
Manifold.......
D-101
Oil
Filler
Tube D-102
Oil
Gallery Plug. D-79
Oil
Pan. D-97
Oil
Pump D-93
Pistons and Connecting Rods D-95
Rocker
Arm Assembly D-99
Spark
Plugs. .D-100
Tappets D-80
Timing
Gear
Cover D-94
Timing
Gear
Oil Jet D-92
Valves
and Springs ... D-90
Water
Outlet Fitting D-104
Water
Pump D-103
ENGINE INSTALLATION.
............D-105
FINAL IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS.
.D-106
Check
Valve Timing . . D-109
Crankcase
Ventilation Valve. D-l 10
Oil
Filter
, . .
...D-lll
Valve
Adjustment D-107
Valve
Adjustment Procedure D-l08
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
D-112
SPECIFICATIONS D-l
13 37
Page 59 of 376
'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
D
10262
FIG.
D-26—FLOATING OIL INTAKE AND PAN 1—
Oil
Float
2—
Gasket
3—
Oil
Float Support
4—
Screw and Lockwasher 5—
Oil
Pan Gasket
6—
Oil
Pan 7—
Bolt
and Lockwasher
8—
Drain
Plug
9—
Drain
Plug Gasket
place it with the gasket in position. The rotors
should then rotate freely, providing that end float of the rotors is
less
than the thickness of the gasket
when compressed or .004" [0,102 mm.]. After as
sembling the gear on the pump shaft, check the
running
clearance
between
the gear and pump body with a feeler
gauge.
This
clearance should be
from
.022" to .051" [0,559 a 1,295 mm.].
Pump
output is controlled by a pressure relief valve.
CAUTION:
The oil pressure relief spring is
cali
brated.
Never stretch this spring to alter the relief valve pressure setting. Adjust this setting by the use of shims only. Shims are available that can be
added
between
the retainer and the spring to in
crease pressure. When shims are present, removing
shims
will
decrease pressure.
This
adjustment
will
change the pressure at higher
speeds
but not at idle speed. Safe minimum pres
sure
is 6 psi. [0,4 kg-cm2] at idle, at which point
the oil pressure light
goes
out; and 20 psi. [1,4
kg-cm2] at
2000
rpm. (32 mph. [51 kph.]).
D-66.
Oil Pan
Examine
the oil pan carefully for evidence of cor
rosion,
dents, or other damage. Special attention
should be given to the mounting flange to be sure of proper alignment and a tight seal at the cylinder
block, oil pan, and
engine
front plate. Whenever
the oil pan is removed, it is
best
to install a new
oil
pan gasket.
D-67.
Flywheel
The
flywheel is mounted on the
rear
flange of the
crankshaft.
The crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch
assembly are statically and dynamically balanced
separately and as a unit; therefore,
these
com
ponents
should be assembled in their original
rela
tive positions to maintain this balance.
D-68.
Flywheel Inspection
Clean
the flywheel thoroughly with cleaning sol vent. Inspect the clutch face of the flywheel for
a
burned or scuffed condition or rivet grooves.
Check
the flywheel for run-out or improper mount
ing according to the installation procedure given
in Par.
D-87.
If
the inner ends of the flywheel ring gear
teeth
are
only slightly burred cr snubbed, remove the burrs
and
reshape the
teeth
using a small emery wheel. 59
Page 60 of 376
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
FIG.
D-28-
CHECKING
OIL
PUMP
ROTORS
FIG.
D-29—CHECKING OUTER ROTOR
TO
OIL
PUMP
BODY If,
however, the
teeth
are broken, cracked, or
seriously
burred,
the ring gear should be replaced.
D-69.
Ring
Gear
Replacement
The
ring
gear
is secured on the flywheel by a
shrink
fit. Before starting the operation of replacing the
ring
gear, place the new ring gear against the old
gear to make certain both have the same number of
teeth.
To
remove the ring gear from the flywheel,
drill
a [9,5 mm.]
hole
through the ring gear and cut
through any remaining metal with a cold chisel. Remove the ring gear from the flywheel. Thorough-
FIG.
D-30—CHECKING
OIL
PUMP
COVER
ly
clean the ring gear surface of the flywheel. Heat
the new ring gear evenly to a range of
650°F.
to
700°F.
[343°C.
a
371°C.]
and place it on the cold
flywheel,
making
certain that the chamfer on the
teeth
is on the crankshaft side of the flywheel. Be
sure
that the ring gear is firmly seated on the fly
wheel. Allow the ring gear to cool slowly to
shrink
it
onto
the flywheel. Do not quench the ring gear;
allow it to slowly air cool.
D-7Q.
Flywheel Pilot Bushing
Inspect
the flywheel pilot bushing in the flywheel.
For
procedure on replacing the bushing, refer to
Par.
1-8.
D-71.
Flywheel Housing
The
flywheel housing, which
encloses
the flywheel
and
clutch is bolted to the
engine
rear
plate and
cylinder
block. The
rear
of the housing provides
the front support for the transmission. Examine the housing for cracks and distortion of the
machined
surfaces. The front face must seat evenly
against the
engine
rear
end plate without evidence
of warpage. The
rear
face must be parallel to the front face. Improper alignment may cause transmission gear disengagement. In addition, the open
ing in the
rear
of the housing, which serves as a
pilot for the transmission, must be concentric with the crankshaft. The flywheel housing should be
checked for alignment after it is installed on the
engine. Refer to Par. D-88.
D-72.
Core Hole Expansion Plug
Any
evidence of coolant leakage around any of
the core
hole
expansion plugs
will
require replace ment of the plug. The expansion plug at the
rear
end of the cylinder block can be driven out with a 24" [60 cm.] length of half-inch bar stock carefully
inserted through the camshaft bore in the cylinder
block. The other core
hole
expansion plugs in the
cylinder
block and cylinder head can be removed
by piercing the center with a sharp tool and prying them out. Before attempting to install a new plug,
clean
the
hole
thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of
sealer on the new plug and install the plug with a
driver.
60
Page 65 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
D
FIG.
D-38—CHECKING
FLYWHEEL
RUN-OUT
place the flywheel on the mounting
bolts
in the
crankshaft.
When installing a new crankshaft or
flywheel, replace the tapered dowel
bolts
with
straight snug-fitting special
bolts
provided using
Flywheel
Dowel Bolt Installing Tool Kit W-231 as shown in Fig. D-35 and D-36. Assemble the
crankshaft
and flywheel in proper relation; then in
stall
the straight
bolts
previously used and tighten
securely. Next, use the [13,9 mm.]
drill
to
enlarge the tapered holes. Ream the
holes
with the 5fo" [14,3 mm.] straight reamer and install the
two special flywheel
bolts
with nuts and lock
washers in place of the two tapered dowel
bolts
formerly
used.
This
procedure overcomes the
necessity of reaming special tapered holes.
Tighten
the nuts alternately and evenly until each
is tightened 35 to 41 lb-ft. [4,8 a 5,7 kg-m.].
After
installation check the run-out of the flywheel
with
a
dial
indicator attached to the
engine
plate
as illustrated in
Fig.
D-38. Mount the
dial
indicator
with
the contact button of the indicator resting against the clutch face of the flywheel. Set the
indicator
at zero and rotate the flywheel. Maximum
allowable run-out is .008"
[0,203
mm.] near the
outer
edge
of the
rear
face of the flywheel.
With
the flywheel housing installed temporarily,
the alignment can be checked with a
dial
indicator. Without the clutch installed on the flywheel, a
dial
indicator can be mounted on one of the flywheel bolts. Set the
dial
indicator with the button resting
against the
rear
face of the flywheel housing. Ro
tate
the flywheel, noting the run-out on the
indi
cator.
Maximum allowable run-out is .005" [0,127
mm.].
Relocate the
dial
indicator so that the
button is against the side of the
rear
opening to
check the
radial
run-out. Rotate the flywheel and
note
the run-out which should not exceed .006" [0,152 mm.].
D-88.
Install
Flywheel Housing
Be
certain that the mating surfaces of the flywheel housing and cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Place
the flywheel housing in position and attach to the cylinder block and
engine
rear
plate. The
long
bolts
through the lugs on the
engine
crankcase
and
those
below are installed with the nuts on the
flywheel housing side.
Install
the other
bolts
from
the
rear
except the screw used to attach the top
side of the starting motor. Tighten securely.
D-89.
Install
Clutch
To
install the clutch assembly with the
engine
out
of the vehicle use a clutch plate aligning arbor.
Place
the clutch driven plate in position against
the flywheel. Insert the arbor into the clutch driven plate and clutch shaft bushing and expand the arbor
in
the bushing to hold it in place. Hold the clutch
pressure plate assembly in position against the
clutch
driven plate and install the attaching
bolts
and
washers, tightening the
bolts
alternately and
evenly. Remove the arbor.
D-90.
Install
Valves and Springs
Oil
the valve stems. Insert all intake and exhaust valves in the valve
guides
from which they were
removed.
Install
one exhaust valve spring and exhaust valve
spring
retainer (Roto Cap) for each exhaust valve.
Slip
the top end of the spring
onto
the
bottom
end
of the valve guide and, with a large screwdriver,
snap the spring and retainer over the tappet ad
justing
screw. Make certain that the two closely wound coils of each spring are at the top (placed up to seat against the block.) See Fig. D-39.
Turn
the crankshaft as necessary to bring each
exhaust valve tappet to its lowest position. Using a
valve spring lifter, compress each exhaust valve
spring,
while holding the valve down, so that the
stem
extends
through the valve spring retainer
far
enough to permit installation of the valve
spring
locks. Heavy lubricating oil or grease
placed on the inside surface of the valve locks
will
help to hold the locks on the valve stem until the valve spring lifter can be removed. When installa
tion of exhaust valves is complete, remove any
cloths used to block the valve compartment floor
openings.
Install
the intake valves and springs in the cylinder head placing the ends of the springs
having the closed coils down against the cylinder
head.
FIG.
D-39—VALVE
TAPPETS
AND
SPRINGS
65
Page 70 of 376
D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck
Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure
Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level
in
Carburetor
Low
Compression Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad
Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance
Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes
Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer
Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump
Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late
Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe
Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points
Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points
Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap
Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings
Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)
Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough
Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil
Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged
Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70
Page 83 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
Dl
14028
j
FIG.
D1-7—TIMING
CHAIN
AND
SPROCKET ALIGNMENT 1—
Camshaft Sprocket
2—
Crankshaft
3—Timing
Chain
Timing
Marks
Dl-24.
Remove
Cylinder
Head Assembly
a.
Unscrew, but do not remove, three
bolts
(Fig.
Dl-8)
which attach rocker
arm
assembly to cylinder
head.
Remove rocker arm assembly, with bolts,
from
cylinder head. See Section F2 for
engines
equipped with exhaust emission control.
b. Remove
eight
cylinder head bolts, cylinder head,
and
gasket from cylinder block.
Dl-25.
Remove Push Rod and Valve
Lifter
Refer
to Fig. Dl-8. Remove push rods and valve lifters from the
cylin
der
block.
Mark,
or otherwise identify, each valve
lifter
according to its cylinder and valve position.
Note:
If valve lifters are not to be serviced, cover
valve lifters and camshaft with a clean cloth to
protect them from dirt
Dl-26.
Remove Camshaft
Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.
Carefully
withdraw camshaft forward from bear
ing bores; avoid marring the bearing surfaces. Re
move
camshaft from cylinder block.
Dl-27.
Remove Flywheel Housing and
Clutch
a.
If flywheel housing and clutch was not pre
viously removed, remove six mounting
bolts
and
flywheel housing from cylinder block.
b.
Mark
clutch cover and flywheel to assure that
clutch
will
be installed in identical position when
engine
is assembled.
c. Remove six attaching screws and clutch assem
bly from flywheel.
D1-28. Remove Flywheel
Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.
Remove six attaching
bolts
and flywheel from
engine
crankshaft.
Dl-29.
Remove Oil Pan
Refer
to Fig. Dl-5.
To
gain access to oil pan mounting bolts, invert
the
engine.
Remove mounting bolts, oil pan, and gasket from
engine
cylinder block.
Dl-30.
Remove Oil Pump Intake Pipe and Screen
Refer
to Fig. Dl-5.
Remove two attaching screws, and oil pump intake
pipe and screen assembly from
engine
cylinder block.
Dl-31.
Remove Piston and
Connecting
Rod Assembly
a.
Examine the cylinder bores. If bores are worn
so that shoulder or ridges exist at the top of piston
ring
travel, remove the ridges with a ridge reamer.
FIG.
Dl-8-
-CYLINDER HEAD,
AND COVER
ROCKER
ARM
1—
—Right
Rocker
Arm
Cover
2—
Rocker
Arm
Cover
Bolt
3—
Gasket
4—
Bolt
5—
Baffle
6—
Left
Rocker
Arm
Cover
7—
Rocker
Arm Shaft
8—Plug
9—
Rocker
Arm Spring
10—
Cylinder
Head
11—
Head
Gasket
12—
Push
Rod
13—
Valve
Lifter
14—
Intake
Valve
15—
Exhaust
Valve
16—
Dowel
Pin
17—
Valve
Spring 18—
Valve
Spring Cap
19—
Valve
Spring Cap Key
20—
Cotter
Pin
21—
Rocker
Arm Shaft End Washer
22—
Rocker
Arm Shaft Spring
23—
Rocker
Arm
24—
Rocker
Arm Shaft
Bracket
25—
Bolt
83
Page 90 of 376
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss
on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl
inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.
Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning
a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign
material.
b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol
vent; dry with compressed air.
c.
Install
screen in housing.
Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection
Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.
Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection
Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;
dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for
burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de
scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,
nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,
seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.
Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement
a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then
split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly
wheel.
b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be
installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become
blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].
Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will
destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.
c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered
edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop
erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will
be held tightly in place.
Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection
Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as
front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection
Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces
with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com
pressed air.
Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.
The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to
proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip
ment, the original bearings should be retained un
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance
between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].
Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively
worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.
b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de
scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean
and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate
properly.
c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with
a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of
a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.
d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.
e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated
during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve
lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re
moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90
Page 105 of 376
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
Dl
Dl-104.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Poor Fuel Economy
Ignition Timing Late or Spark Advance Inoperative
Carburetor
Float Setting Too High
Accelerator Pump Improperly Adjusted
Fuel
Pump Pressure High
Fuel
Line
Leakage
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm Leakage
Cylinder
Compression Low
Valves Do Not Seat Properly
Spark
Plugs
Defective
Spark
Plug Cables
Defective
Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective
Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
Brakes
Drag
Wheel Alignment Incorrect
Tire
Pressure Incorrect Odometer Inaccurate
Fuel
Tank
Cap Clogged or
Defective
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Lack
of
Power
Cylinder
Compression Low
Ingitdon Timing Late
Carburetor
or
Fuel
Pump Clogged or
Defective
Fuel
Lines Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Valves Do Not Seat Property
Valve
Timing Late Intake Manifold or Cylinder Head
Gasket Leaks
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Spark
Plugs Dirty or
Defective
Breaker
Point Gap Incorrect
Breaker
Points
Defective
Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective
Electrical
Connection Loose
Broken
Valve Spring
Broken
Piston Ring or Piston
Cylinder
Head Gasket
Defective
Distributor Cap Cracked
Low
Compression
Valves Not Seating Properly Piston Rings Seal Poorly
Valve
Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Piston Clearance Too Great
Cylinder
Head Gasket Leaks
Burned
Valves and
Seats
Valves Stick or Are Too Loose in Guides
Valve
Timing Incorrect
Valve
Head and Seat Have Excessive Carbon
Engine Overheats
Valve
Spring Weak or Broken
Valve
Lifter Seized or Collapsed
Exhaust
System Clogged
Valves Sticking
Valve
Stem Warped
Valve
Stem Carbonized or Scored
Valve
Stem Clearance Insufficient in Guide
Valve
Spring Weak or Broken
Valve
Spring Distorted
Oil
Contaminated
Overheating
Cooling System Inoperative
Thermostat Inoperative Ignition Timing Incorrect
Valve
Timing Incorrect
Carbon
Accumulation Excessive
Fan
Belt Loose
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Oil
System Failure
Piston Rings Worn or Scored
Popping,
Spitting,
Detonation
Ignition Timing Incorrect
Carburetion
Improper
Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Chambers Excessive
Valves Not Seating Properly
Valve
Spring Broken
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Fuel
Line
Clogged
Valve
Timing Incorrect
Excessive
Oil
Consumption
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Weak,
Worn,
Broken, or Incorrectly Fitted
Crankshaft
Main Bearings or
Connecting Rod Bearings Have
Excessive Clearance
Gaskets or Oil Seals
Leak
Cylinder
Bores Worn, Scored,
Out-of-Round or Tapered
Pistons Have Too Great Clearance to Cylinder Bores
Connecting Rods Misaligned High Road Speed
High Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilation System Inoperative
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough or Out-of-Round
Oil
Level Low
Oil
Leakage
Oil
Dirty
Oil
Pressure Low or Lacking
(Oil
Pump Failure)
Drilled
Passages
in Crankshaft or
Crankcase
Clogged
Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 105