check engine light JEEP DJ 1953 Workshop Manual

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM SUBJECT
PAR.

Directional
Signal
Lamps
H-138

Hazard
Warning
Lamps
H-139

Head
Lamp
Replacement H-130
Head
Lamp
Aiming Procedure H-131 Headlight Dimmer Switch H-127

License
Plate
Lamp
H-136
Main
Light
Switch. H-126

Marker
Lights .H-l40

Parking
and
Turn
Signal
Light
H-133
Stop
Light
Switch. H-l28
Tail,
Stop and
Turn
Signal
Lamp
.H-134

H-1. GENERAL
All
'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with 12- volt electrical systems. Use caution around the higher
voltage
of the 12-volt system as accidental

short
circuits are more capable of damaging electri­
cal
units. Also, arcs around the 12-volt battery are
more apt to ignite any gas that may be escaping

from
it. In the following paragraphs
will
be found
information about the battery, distributor, coil,
generator, alternator,
voltage
regulator and start­ ing motor. These units with the connecting wires,

make
up the
engine
electrical system. The wiring
diagram
will
show the different circuits of the en­

gine
electrical system and the various units which
make
up
those
circuits.

With
plastic-covered wiring harnesses use only

rubber-insulated
wiring clips.

Caution:
All current production vehicles are 12- volt, negative ground. Whenever servicing a 12-
volt electrical system, use caution, as an accidental

short
circuit is capable of damaging electrical units. Disconnect battery ground cable before changing

electrical
components.

H-2.
Battery

The
battery is a storage reservoir for electrical
energy produced by the alternator or generator.
The
battery should store sufficient energy for
operation of the entire electrical system when the
alternator
or generator is not pr 1,scing output,

such
as when the ignition is first turned on. Of

particular
importance is maintaining the electrolyte
at the correct level, regularly checking with a
hydrometer, and maintaining clean, tight cable connections.

Battery
service information is given in this section.

Caution:
Do not allow flames or sparks to be
brought near the vent
openings
of the battery since
hydrogen gas may be present in the battery and might explode.

Note:
The liquid in the battery (electrolyte) is a
solution of sulphuric acid which, on contact, can

injure
skin or
eyes,
or damage clothes. If it is spilled
on the skin or spattered in the
eyes,
promptly flush
it
away with quantities of clear water only. If the

acid
is spilled on clothes, wet it thoroughly with a

weak
solution of ammonia, or with a solution of sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.
SUBJECT
PAR.

HORN
H-137

ELECTRICAL
COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT
H-150

WINDSHIPLD
WIPER SYSTEM
H-141
thru
149

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. .H-151

ELECTRICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
H-152

Caution:
When installing the battery, the nega­
tive terminal must be grounded. Reverse polarity of the battery can cause severe damage to the charg­ing system.

Battery
Inspection

a.
Check
the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of 1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.

If
the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery
needs

recharging.
If one or more cells is 25 "points" (.025) or more lower than the other cells, this in­
dicates that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to

fail,
or there is a
crack
in the battery partition in
the case. Unless the battery is repaired or replaced, battery trouble
will
soon
be experienced.

b.
Check
the electrolyte level in each cell, add

distilled
water to maintain the solution [9,5 mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. It is important to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all
times because plates that are
exposed
for any
length of time
will
be seriously damaged.

c.
Check
the wing nuts on the hold-down frame for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pres­

sure,
never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive
pressure
could damage the battery case.

d.
Clean
the battery terminals and cable con­ nectors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda

and
water and brush it around the terminals to
remove any corrosion that is present. The cell caps must be tight and their vents sealed to prevent
cleaning solution entering the cells. After cleaning,
connect cables to battery and coat the terminals

with
heavy grease.

e.
Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded
or frayed.
Check
tightness
of terminal
screws to ensure
good
electrical connections.
Check

the
tightness
of the negative ground cable con­nection at the frame to ensure a
good
ground
connection.
f.
Load
test
the battery. Connect a voltmeter across the battery. Run the starting motor for 15 seconds. If the
voltage
does
not drop below 10
volts the battery is satisfactory. If the
voltage
falls
below the figure given, yet the specific gravity is
above
1.225,
the condition of the battery is questionable.
g. Be sure the
engine
ground strap connection, 172

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

FIG.
H-l—ENGINE
GROUND
STRAP—F4
ENGINE
Fig.
H-l, is tight at both connections. If
these

connections are
loose
-
or
dirty,
hard
starting or
failure
to start may result.

H-3.
Ignition System

The
ignition system consists of the battery, ignition

switch,
ignition coil ballast resistor (V-6 engine
only),
ignition coil, ignition distributor,
spark
plugs,

and
the low and high tension wiring.
Electrical

energy is obtained from the battery while cranking
and
from the alternator after the engine is running.

These
supply circuits must be considered part of
the ignition system.

The
ignition system furnishes the
spark
-for the

spark
plugs. The
spark
must occur in each cylinder
at exactly the proper time. To accomplish this, the following units are required.

a.
The battery, supplying the electrical energy.
Note: 'Jeep* vehicles equipped with Dauntless

V-6
engines have a ballast resistor connected be­ tween the ignition switch and the positive (+)

terminal
of the coil. The ballast resistor limits to
a
safe maximum the
primary
current flow through
the coil and the distributor contact points.

b.
The ignition coil, transforming the battery low
tension current to high tension current that jumps
the
spark
plug gap in the cylinders under com­
pression.

c.
The distributor, delivering the
spark
to the

proper
cylinders and incorporates the mechanical

breaker,
that
opens
and closes the
primary
circuit at the exact time.

d.
The
spark
plugs, providing the gap in the engine
cylinders.

e. The wiring, connecting the various ignition
units.

f. The ignition switch controling the battery
current
when it is desired to start or
stop
the engine.
g. The firing order for the
Hurricane
F4 engine is
1-3-4-2.
Cylinder
No. 1 is the cylinder closest to the

radiator.

h.
The firing order for the Dauntless V-6 engine
is
1-6-5-4-3-2.
Cylinders
1-3-5 are on the left bank

and
cylinders 2-4-6 are on the right bank. H-4.
PRIMARY
CIRCUIT

Before testing the
primary
circuit,
make certain
that the battery is satisfactory or install a fully

charged
battery for the
primary
circuit
tests. Also,

check
the starter motor for excessive voltage drop

and
check the starter motor itself for excessive
draw.

a.
Measure the voltage at the coil
primary
termi­

nals
while cranking the engine with the starter
motor. If the voltage is less than 9 volts the trouble

will
be found in the
primary
circuit.
If there is no voltage at all, check for a break in the
primary

circuit,
possibly in the coil
primary
winding.

b.
To check the
primary
circuit,
turn
the ignition
on,
turn
the engine until the points are closed, and
then measure the voltage drop across each portion
of the circuit with a voltmeter.
Note: Most voltage drops
will
be found at the con­
nections of wires to terminals as
dirt,
oxidation etc. can cause excessive resistance at
these
points.

Measure
voltage drops in wires to take this into
account.

c.
Connect the voltmeter from the battery cable

terminal
on the starter solenoid to the battery

terminal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more than 0.2 volt, perform the checks given in
steps, d, e, and f following.

d.
Connect the voltmeter from the solenoid termi­

nal
to the battery terminal of the ignition switch.
If
the voltmeter reads more than .05 volt, check

and
clean the connections at solenoid, light switch,
and
ignition switch.
e. If the voltmeter reading in
step
d is less than .05 volt, connect the voltmeter from the battery

terminal
to the ignition terminal on the ignition
switch.
If the voltage drop is more than 0.1 volt,

repair
or replace the ignition switch.
f. If the voltage drop in
step
e is not more than 0.1 volt, connect the voltmeter from the ignition

terminal
of the ignition switch to the battery termi­

nal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more

than
.05 volt, clean and tighten the connections

and
check again. If the voltmeter again reads more

than
.05 volt, replace the wire.
g. Connect the voltmeter from the distributor
primary
terminal on the coil to the coil terminal on
the distributor. Voltage drop should not exceed .05 volt.
Clean
and tighten connections if necessary.

h.
Connect the voltmeter from the coil terminal
on the distributor to a clean,
paint-
free spot on the

distributor
body. The reading should not exceed .05
volt. If more, it indicates excessive resistance
through the points or in the distributor internal connections.
Clean
and align the points and make

sure
the breaker arm connection to the
primary

terminal
as well as the stationary contact point mounting in the body is clean and tight.

i.
Open the points and check the voltmeter. It
should read close to peak voltage. Low voltage in­ dicates that a circuit through the distributor (a

short)
exists while the points are open.

j.
Disconnect the condenser lead and open the points. A jump to
full
voltage indicates a short in 173

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
the condenser. Replace the condenser. If there is
no jump to full voltage, overhaul or replace the

distributor.

k.
With the points closed, connect the voltmeter

from
a clean, paint-free
post
on the distributor
body to the negative
post
of the battery. The volt­
age drop should be practically zero, a hardly
readable deflection on the voltmeter. If the volt­ meter registers a
voltage
drop, perform the checks

in
steps
1
and m following.

I.
Check
for
voltage
drop in the battery ground
cable.
Clean
the battery
post,
cable terminals, and contact surface on the bellhousing, or on body if

a
noticeable deflection of the voltmeter occurs,
m.
Check
for any
voltage
drop
between
the dis­

tributor
body and a clean, paint-free
spot
on the

cylinder
block. If there is any
voltage
drop, remove
the distributor and clean the mounting surfaces of
distributor
body and cylinder block.

H-5.
SECONDARY
CIRCUIT
If
satisfactory ignition is not obtainable with cor­

rect
point gap and tension; satisfactory condenser;
sufficient primary voltage; and correctly cleaned, gapped, and installed spark plugs; the secondary

circiut
should be investigated.

a.
Test the coil.
Bring
the coil up to operating
temperature using the coil heat feature of a coil tester, if available. Refer to the coil tester manu­

facturer's
instructions for specific hook-ups for
performing the checks given in
steps
b, c, and d following.
b. Connect the positive lead of the tester to the
battery terminal of the coil primary winding.
Con­
nect the tester ground lead to the coil tower. Mea­

sure
the resistance of the secondary winding. If the
resistance is more than
20,000
ohms, a fault in the
secondary winding is indicated.
c.
Check
for a grounded secondary by touching the tester ground lead to the coil cover. If resistance
is not over
100,000
ohms, the secondary is grounded
to the cover.

d.
If the secondary winding is satisfactory, mea­
sure
the primary current draw in accordance with
the instructions of the
test
equipment manu­
facturer.

e.
Check
the secondary circuit for leakage. With the coil primary in the circuit with the breaker unit of the tester, connect a long, high-tension
test
lead
to the coil tower.
Check
the secondary circuit for
leakage by performing the checks given in
steps
f. g, h, and i following.

Note:
In the following
tests,
a slight sparking and
meter deflection
will
usually be
seen
just as contact
is made.
This
is caused by capacitance and
does
not
indicate defective insulation.
f.
Check
distributor cap. Remove the coil lead from the cap and touch the
test
lead to the center contact
inside the cap. If the meter reading drops when the contact is touched or if sparking is seen, a leakage
path is present
between
the center contact and one
of the plug towers.
This
leakage path
will
be in the

form
of a
crack
or carbon track in the cap. Discon­ nect the spark plug wires from the cap one at a
time and
test
each plug contact with the high-
voltage
lead and with all other plug wires con­
nected. Any sparking or meter drop indicates that

a
leakage path exists
between
that particular con­
tact and an adjacent one. Testing the adjacent contacts
will
determine which pair is at fault,
g-
Check
distributor rotor. Touch the
test
lead to
the spring contact in the center of the distributor
rotor.
Any leakage in the rotor insulation
between

the contact and the shaft
will
cause a drop in the meter reading and usually sparking
will
be seen.

h.
Check
spark plug wires. Disconnect the spark
plug wires from the plugs and
test
the plug terminal of each. The meter reading should not drop below
the open secondary value (value before making contact). If it
does
or if a large spark occurs when
the
test
lead and the plug wire are separated, there
is a break in the insulation on that wire.

i.
Check
the coil tower insulation. Remove the
high-tension
test
lead from the coil tower and touch
the ground lead of the coil tester to several points

around
the base of the tower. Any sparking or deflection of the meter indicates a leakage path in
the tower insulation.

H-6.
Alternator Charging System

All
Jeep
Universal
Series vehicles have, as standard
equipment a 35-amp., 12-volt, negative ground
alternator and a transistorized
voltage
regulator.
For
repairing the alternator, many of its major components are furnished as complete assemblies

including:
complete brush assembly which requires no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete
rectifying
diode
assemblies which eliminate the need for removing and replacing individual diodes;

a
complete isolation
diode
assembly; and a rotor assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field coil,

and
slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining the system
voltage
at the output
terminal.
The out­
put current is determined by the battery electrical

load;
such as headlights, heater, etc.
The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced as a
complete unit.

H-7.
Starting System

The
operation of the starter motor is controlled by
the ignition switch. The starter is made up of a
frame,
field coil, armature, and brushes.

The
starter solenoid electrically
closes
the circuit

between
the battery and the starter motor. When the ignition key is turned to its extreme right, the
solenoid is energized and
closes
the battery-to- starter-motor circuit.

Note:
All Jeep Universal Series vehicles have the

starter
solenoid switch secured to the starter motor
assembly. The Hurricane F4 and Dauntless V-6

engine
Prestolite starter drive is of the inertia type
(rexr
continued on
page
176) 174

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

14365

FIG.
H-5—WIRING
DIAGRAM—F4
ENGINE
CURRENT
MODEL
1—
Left
Headlamp

2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3—
Right
Parking and Signal Lamp

4—
Right
Headlamp
5—
Marker
Lamp
— Amber
6—
Generator
7—
Distributor

8—
Ignition
Coil

9— Starting Motor
10— Battery Ground Cable
11—
12
Volt
Battery

12—
Flasher
(Directional Signal)
13— Instrument Cluster
A—Hi-Beam
Indicator

B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument Lights
D—Oil
Pressure
Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Indicator
G—Fuel
Gauge
Indicator
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
14—
Ignition
and
Starter
Switch
15—
Horn
Button 16—
Directional
Signal Switch 17— 4-Way
Flasher
Switch
18—
Flasher
(4-Way)
19—
Windshield
Wiper Motor Switch
20—
Main
Light
Switch

21—
Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit

22—
Back-Up
Light
Switch
23—
Marker
Lamp — Red 24—
Right
Tail
and Stop Lamp
25—
Right
Back-Up Lamp
26—
Left
Back-Up Lamp
27—
Right
Tail
and Stop Lamp
28—
Marker
Lamp — Red 29— Stop
Light
Switch
30— Foot Dimmer Switch

31—
Windshield
Wiper Motor Assembly

32—
Voltage Regulator
33— Temperature Sending
Unit

34—
Oil
Pressure
Sending
Unit

35— Spark
Plugs
&
Cables

36—
Horn

37— Junction Block
38—
Marker
Lamp — Amber
through a
two-position
push-pull switch located on
the
left
side
of the control panel.
The
foot-operated
headlight dimmer switch is
mounted on the floorboard to the
left
of the steering
column.

H-9.
PRESTOLITE
DISTRIBUTOR
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6 and

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

The
Prestolite distributor on the F4
engine
is
mounted on the right
side
of the
engine
and is op­
erated by a coupling on the oil pump shaft, see Fig.
D-l,
which is driven by a spiral gear on the cam­
shaft. The spark advance is fully automatic, being controlled by built-in centrifugal
weights.
The Pres­

tolite
distributor on the V-6
engine
(Fig. H-8) is mounted at the
left
front of the
engine
on the tim­
ing chain cover. It is driven by a spiral gear on the
camshaft. The spark advance is fully automatic,
being controlled by built-in centrifugal
weights,
and by a vacuum advance system. While
some
parts of the distributor may be checked or replaced
with the unit mounted on the
engine,
it is
best
to periodically remove it for a thorough check. Infor­ mation covering the parts which can be serviced
without removal is
given
below.
The
Prestolite distributor installed on the V-6 en­

gine
is similar in construction to the distributor in­
stalled on the F4
engines
except
for the addition of

a
vacuum advance mechanism.
The
same checking procedures outlined in Par. C- 10a, are used for the Prestolite V-6 distributor with

exception
of specifications.
H-10. Distributor Cap

The
distributor cap should be inspected for cracks,
carbon runners and
evidence
of arcing. If any of

these
conditions
exists, the cap should be replaced.
Clean
any corroded high
tension
terminals.

H-11.
Rotor
Inspect the rotor for cracks or
evidence
of
excessive

burning at the end of the metal strip.
After a distributor rotor has had normal use the
end of the rotor will
become
burned. If burning is found on top of the rotor it indicates the rotor is
too short and
needs
replacing. Usually when this condition is found the distributor cap
segment
will 178

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

12967
FIG.
H-6—WIRING
DIAGRAM—LATE
V6
ENGINE

1—Left Headlamp

2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3—
Right
Parking and Signal Lamp

4—
Right
Headlamp
5— Voltage Regulator
6—
Alternator
7—
Oil
Pressure
Sender

8— Temperature
Sender

9—
Ignition
Distributor
10— Junction Block

11—
Horn

12—
Ignition
Coil

13— Starting Motor
14— Battery Ground Cable 15— Foot Dimmer Switch 21-
16— Stop
Light
Switch — Front 22-
17— Ballast 23-
18—
Flasher
(Directional Signal) 24-
19—
Fuse
25-
20— Instrument Cluster 26-

A—Hi-Beam
Indicator 27-

B—Auxiliary
28- C—Instrument Lights 29-

D—Oil
Pressure
Indicator 30-
E—Charging Indicator 31-F—Temperature Indicator 32-
G—Fuel
Gauge
33-
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator 34-
-Ignition
and
Starter
Switch

-Horn
Button

-Directional
Signal Switch
-4-Way
Flasher
Switch

-Flasher
(4-Way)

-Fuse

-Main
Light
Switch
-Stop
Light
Switch —
Rear

-Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit

-Back-Up
Light
Switch

-Right
Tail
and Stop Lamp

-Right
Back-Up Lamp

-Left
Back-Up Lamp

-Left
Tail
and Stop Lamp
be burned on the horizontal
face
and the cap will

also
need
replacing. H-12. Condenser

The
condenser
prolongs
the
life
of the distributor

points
by
preventing
arcing at the
contacts.
It
also
provides
a
hotter
spark by creating a reverse
surge

of current which rapidly breaks
down
the
magnetic

field of the coil by
demagnetizing
the core. Should
the
condenser
be leaky, a weak spark will result.

Check
the
condenser
lead for broken wires or
frayed insulation. Clean and
tighten
the
connec-
179

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

ffKHs)

3—<§)

FIG.
H-7—WIRING
DIAGRAM—V6
ENGINE
CURRENT
MODEL
1—
Left
Headlamp
2—Left Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp
4—Right Headlamp 5—
Marker
Lamp — Amber
6— Alternator 7— Voltage Regulator
8— Starting Motor
9— Battery Ground Cable
10— 12 Volt Battery
11—
Flasher
(Directional Signal)
12— Instrument Cluster
A—Hi-Beam
Indicator
B—Auxiliary

C—Instrument
Lights

D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
E—Charging
Indicator

F—Temperature
Indicator

G—Fuel
Gauge Indicator
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
13— Ignition and Starter Switch
14—
Horn
Button
15— Directional Signal Switch
16— 4-Way Flasher Switch 17—
Flasher
(4-Way)
18— Windshield Wiper Motor Switch
19—
Main
Light Switch
20—
Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit
21—
Back-Up
Light Switch
22—
Marker
Lamp — Red
23— Right
Tail
and
Stop
Light 24— Right Back-Up Lamp
25—
Left
Back-Up Lamp 26—
Left
Tail
and
Stop
Light
27—
Marker
Lamp — Red
28—
Stop
Light Switch
29— Foot Dimmer Switch
30— Windshield Wiper Motor Assembly
31—
Ballast
Resistor 32— Ignition
Coil

33—
Spark
Plugs and Cables 34— Temperature Sending Unit
35—
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit 36—
Horn
37— Junction Block
38—
Marker
Lamp — Amber

lions
on the terminal
posts.
Be sure
condenser
is
mounted
firmly on the distributor for a
good
ground
connection.

Should a
condenser
tester
be available the capacity for
both
F4 and Prestolite V6
condenser
should
check from .25 to .28 microfarads. In the
absence

of
tester,
check by substituting a new
condenser.

H-13. Distributor Points
a. Examine the distributor
points.
If
they
show

wear,
poor
mating, transferred metal, or pitting,

then
new
ones
should be installed. Clean the
points

with a suitable
solvent
and a stiff bristled brush.
b. Check the
alignment
of the
point
for a full,
square
contact.
If not correctly aligned, bend the
stationary
contact
bracket slightly to provide align­
ment.

c. The
contact
gap should be set at .020"
[0,508
mm.],
on the F4 and .016"
[0,406
mm.] on the
Prestolite V6. Adjustment of the gap is accom­ plished by
loosening
the lock screw and turning adjusting eccentric screw until correct gap is
secured. Be sure that the fiber block on the breaker

arm
is resting on the
highest
point
on the cam while the adjustment is
being
made. Recheck the gap
after locking the adjustment.
d. Apply a thin film of cam lubricant to the cam to
lessen
fiber block wear.
e. Using Tool C-4094, check
point
contact
spring
pressure, which should be
between
17 and 20

ounces
[0,487
a
0,567
kg.] on the F4 and 17 to 22 oz.
[0,487
a
0,624
kg.] on the Prestolite V6.

Check
with a spring scale
hooked
on the breaker

arm
at the
contact
and pull at right
angle
to the
breaker arm. Make the reading just as the
points

separate. Adjust the
point
pressure by
loosening
the stud holding the end of the
contact
arm spring
and slide the end of the spring in or out as
neces­

sary.
Retighten the stud and recheck the pressure. Too low a- pressure will
cause
engine
missing at
high
speeds.
Too high a pressure will
cause
rapid
wear of the cam, block, and
points.
180

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
FIG.
H-9—DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY- HURRICANE F4 ENGINE 1—
Cap
6—Advance Plate
Lock
Screw
2—
Rotor
7—Oiler and
Felt
Wick

3—
Primary
Wire
8—Drive Shaft
4—
Breaker
Plate 9—Drive Shaft
Collar
and
Thrust
Washer 5—
Governor
Weights
attaching screws; remove vacuum advance unit
from housing.
e. Remove the two clamp
hinge
to breaker plate
screws; remove breaker plate from housing.
f. Remove the shaft assembly. To do this, file off
the upset end of the pin which is placed through
the collar and shaft at the lower end of the housing

and
drive out the pin with a suitable punch. Re­
move
the collar and washer.
Pull
the shaft from
the housing.
g. Should it be necessary to remove the cam as­
sembly, first remove the
felt
wick from the upper
end. Use
long-nose
pliers to compress and remove the spring locking clip located at the
bottom
of the

drilled
center opening of the cam. Remove the cam.

H-17.
Distributor Inspection

If
the shaft and bearings are worn sufficiently
to allow .005" or more
looseness
of the shaft,
they
must be replaced. Before installing new bearings,
soak them in medium grade
engine
oil and allow
them to
drain.
Wipe all oil from the upper part of
the housing.

Important:
After new bearing installation,
drill
a

y%"
[3,2 mm.] lubrication
hole
through the upper bearing
before
installing the drive shaft. Refer
to Fig. H-8 item 16.

At
assembly, apply a film of grease to the upper
drive
shaft washer and put a small amount of
grease in the bearing bore just
above
the bearings.

Lubricate
the governor mechanism sparingly with
medium grade
engine
oil in the oiler mounted on
the side of the housing and 5 drops on the
left

located in the center opening of the cam directly

below
the rotor. Place a very light smear of grease
on the cam and 1 drop of oil on the breaker arm pivot.
Before installing the distributor, check the friction

spring
mounted on the lower end of the drive shaft

and
replace it if worn or damaged. Inspect rod end of vacuum advance mechanism
for
excessive
wear. Push rod
into
unit as far as
possible, hold finger tightly over nipple, then release rod. After about 15 seconds, remove finger
from nipple, and
notice
if air is drawn
into
unit.
If
not, diaphragm is leaking and unit must be
replaced.

H-18.
Installation and Ignition
Timing

If
the
engine
crankshaft has
been
rotated, with the
distributor off, it
will
be necessary to place No. 1
piston in firing position to correctly install the distributor. Refer to
Pars.
C-10 and
C-ll. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears in the

cylinder
block and install the distributor on the
cylinder
block. Mount the rotor on distributor shaft

and
turn
the shaft until the rotor
points
towards No. 1
spark
terminal tower position (when cap is installed) with the contact
points
just breaking. Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the

driving
lug on the end of the shaft enters the
slot

cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down
into
place. Rotate the distributor
body
until the contact
points
are just breaking.
Install
the hold down screw.

H-19.
Ignition
Coil
— F4 Engine

The
sealed coil
does
not require any special service
other than keeping the terminals and wire con­ nection clean and tight.

The
positive (+) terminal of the coil is connected
to the ignition switch and is also connected directly
to the starter solenoid to by-pass the resistance

during
cranking of
engine.

The
negative
(—) terminal is connected to the
distributor. The secondary (High tension) terminal
is connected by a short cable to the center terminal

in
the distributor cap.

Note:
Always make certain the coil wires are con­
nected to the proper coil terminals to ensure cor­
rect coil polarity.

H-20. DELCO DISTRIBUTOR
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
The
distributor (Fig. H-10) is mounted at the
left

front of the
engine
on the timing chain cover. It
is driven by a
spiral
gear on the camshaft. The

spark
advance is fully automatic, being controlled 182

ELECTRICALJ
SYSTEM

d.
Inspect for
excessive
wear
between
centrifugal

weights
and advance cam and pivot pins.
Turn
weight
base plate in a clockwise direction until
weights
are fully extended. Release and allow
springs to return
weights
to
retard
position. Repeat several times. Springs should return
weights
to
stop
without sticking and there should be no
excessive
free
movement
in the
retard
position. Inspect
springs for distortion and fatigue.
e. Inspect cam
lobes
for scoring or
excessive
wear.
Check
weight
base plate for binding or
excessive

looseness
on distributor shaft.

f.
Check
breaker plate for
excessive
looseness
on
outside
diameter of upper distributor shaft bushing.
Check
breaker plate ground lead for poor
spot
we
Id

at plate end and for
loose
or frayed terminal con­
nections.
g.
Check
for
excessive
wear
between
distributor
shaft and bushings in housing. Inspect shaft for distortion. Inspect gear for scoring of
teeth
or

excessive
wear.

h.
Inspect rod end of vacuum advance mechanism
for
excessive
wear. Push rod
into
unit as far as
possible, hold finger tightly over nipple, then re­
lease
rod. After about 15 seconds, remove finger
from nipple, and
notice
if air is drawn
into
unit.
If
not, diaphragm is leaking and unit must be
replaced.

H-29.
Distributor Reassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-l5.

a.
Install
distributor
primary
lead and rubber grommet in distributor housing. Mount vacuum
advance unit on housing with two
slotted
attaching
screws; insert ground lead terminal of breaker plate under outer mounting screw.
b.
Install
felt
washer over upper shaft bushing of
distributor housing and apply a few drops of light

oil.
Secure breaker plate to upper bushing with re­ tainer. See Fig. H-17.
12767

FIG.
H-17—INSTALLING
BREAKER
PLATE
ON
DISTRIBUTOR
HOUSING
(DELCO)

1—
Breaker
Plate
2—
Retainer

3—
Retainer
Groove
4—
Lubricant
Reservoir c.
Install
distributor cam and
weight
base plate
on distributor shaft.

d.
Insert distributor shaft
into
distributor housing.
Install
centrifugal advance
weights
and springs on

cam
and
weight
base plate. e. Fasten driven gear to shaft with pin. Be care­
ful
not to damage gear.

f.
Secure condenser and bracket to breaker plate
with
slotted
screw.
g.
Install
breaker point assembly over
boss
on
breaker
plate; secure with two
slotted
screws and
lock washers. Apply one drop of light oil to breaker

arm
pivot. Connect condenser and coil
primary

leads to breaker point assembly.

h.
Apply a small amount of high temperature cam

and
ball
bearing lubricant to a clean cloth; hold cloth against distributor cam while turning
distri­
butor shaft.

Caution:
Do not apply
excessive
grease. Petro­
leum jelly is not suitable as a distributor cam
lubri­
cant.

i.
Make preliminary adjustment of breaker point
gap, as described in Par. C-10.

].
Secure rotor to centrifugal timing advance mech­
anism with two screws, lock washers, and flat
washers.

Note:
The square and round
lugs
on the rotor must
be positioned in the corresponding
holes
in the

weight
base plate.
k. If a reliable distributor tester is available, check
the distributor to make certain that the centrifugal

and
vacuum advance mechanisms are operating
according to specifications.

Note:
Mount distributor in tester with all end play
of the distributor shaft in upward position; this

will
eliminate any possible drag
between
the centri­ fugal advance cam and
weight
base plate.

I.
Install
new
O-ring
seal on distributor housing.

H-30.
Distributor
Installation
and
Timing

a.
Insert distributor shaft
into
timing gear cover
of
engine
so that rotor is pointing to
mark
made on distributor base (Fig. H-14), with vacuum advance
unit pointing in exact, original direction (Fig.

H-18).

b.
Install
distributor clamp and
bolt
with lock
washer, leaving
bolt
just
loose
enough
to permit
movement
of the distributor with heavy hand
pressure.

C.
Connect
primary
wire to distributor side of coil.
Install
distributor cap on distributor housing. Press

screwdriver
into
upper
slotted
ends
of two cap
retainers.
Turn
retainers clockwise to secure cap to distributor.

d.
If
spark
cables were disconnected from
distri­

butor cap, connect them. Wires must be pushed

all
the way down
into
the distributor cap terminals
and
onto
the
spark
plugs. Nipples must be pushed
firmly
over the terminals;
boots
must be pushed

firmly
over the
spark
plugs. 186

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H

12746

FIG.
H-l8—VACUUM
ADVANCE
MECHANISM
(DELCO)

A—Full
Advance

B—No
Advance
1—Vacuum
Pull
Rod
e.
To adjust breaker point cam dwell and set tim­
ing of engine, refer to
Pars.
C-10 and
C-ll.
H-31. Coil
— V-6 Engine

The
sealed coil
does
not require any special service
other than keeping the terminals and wire connec­
tions clean and tight.

The
positive (+) terminal of the coil is connected
to the ignition switch through the ballast resistor,
and
is also connected directly to the starter
sole­

noid to by-pass the resistance during cranking of
engine.
The
negative (—) terminal is connected to the

distributor.
The secondary (high tension) terminal
is connected by a short cable to the center terminal
in
the distributor cap.

Always
make certain the coil wires are connected to the proper coil terminals to ensure correct
coil
polarity.

Note:
The ignition coil and ballast resistor must
be of the same manufacturer. Ballast resistors
and
ignition coils of one manufacturer are inter­changeable with both units of the other. H-32.
Ballast
Resistor

•
V-6 Engine.

An
ignition ballast resistor is in series with the
primary
winding of the coil. The ballast resistor
helps regulate the flow of
primary
current through­
out the speed range. At low
speeds
when the con­
tacts remain closed longer, the ballast heats and
increases in resistance, thereby limiting the flow of

primary
current. At higher
speeds
when the con­
tacts remain closed for shorter periods of time, the ballast
cools
and thereby decreases in resistance
to allow more
primary
current and reduce the
fall

off
in
available voltage.
During
starting, the resistor compensates for the lowered battery
voltage
re­
sulting from the starter load and permits an in­ crease in
primary
current, resulting in a higher
secondary
voltage
for starting.
The
only
test
required of the ignition ballast re­
sistor is a continuity check. Characteristics of the ballast produce wide variations in resistance with
changes in ballast temperature. Therefore, check­ ing
voltage
drop across the ballast would be mis­
leading.

Caution:
Never make a connection that connects
the ballast across the battery as this
will
burn
the ballast resistor winding.

H-33.
Spark
Plugs

Clean
and gap
spark
plugs as described in
Par.
C-4.
Inspect them for excessive burning and erosion of
electrodes, blistering of porcelain at the firing tip,

black
deposits, or fouling. These conditions indicate
that the plugs have not been operating at the cor­

rect
temperature.

Note:
Prolonged idling just before removing and
checking the plugs should be avoided as it may
produce false indications.

Spark
plug operating temperatures may have been
too hot, too cold, or normal as described.

a.
At too hot a temperature, the tip of the insulator
will
show
dark
spots
and blisters after fairly short service. As high-temperature operation is con­
tinued, the whole insulator
nose
will
discolor, show­
ing fused and blistered
deposits
near the electrode
as well as considerable erosion and burning of the
electrodes. After extreme service, the porcelain it­ self may be fused, cracked, and blistered at the tip.

The
electrodes
will
show extreme erosion and
burn­

ing and possibly even surface cracking.

Note:
If such cracking appears on certain plugs
after fairly short service, it may be caused by water
leaks in the associated cylinders.
b. At too cold a temperature plug operation, in
the early
stages,
will
result in a
dull
black
sooting

of the plug.
This
condition frequently is found in new vehicles during the break-in period and is no
indication of trouble in this case. As the condition progresses, black
deposits
of oil and carbon build
up on the base of the shell and on the insulator

until,
in extreme cases, the space
between
insulator

and
shell may be almost completely filled. Excessive
electrode erosion
will
seldom be found in cases of cold plug operation. These indications can be pro­
duced by the use of an excessively
rich
air-fuel mixture and the carburetor should be checked if
this condition is suspected. Fouling
will
also be
caused by leaking rings or intake valve
guides
that
permit excessive oil to reach the combustion
chambers.
The use of a hotter plug
will
help
burn

away
some
of this fouling but the mechanical con­ dition of the
engine
should be corrected.
c. In normal temperature operation the plug
will
accumulate grayish-tan to reddish-brown
deposits

with
fairly uniform discoloration of the insulator
nose
and slight, localized electrode erosion. If the
insulator shows any blotches, blisters,
irregular
dis­
coloration, etc., look for hot-plug symptoms. Too
hot or too cold plug operation may be caused by
the use of plugs of other than the specified heat

rating
but if the plugs are as specified a hotter or 187

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188