check engine light JEEP DJ 1953 Repair Manual

Page 191 of 376


'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
long as the circuit values allow the voltage to build
up to the operating voltage.
The
electromagnet of the voltage regulator unit has

a
winding of many turns of fine wire and is con­
nected across the charging circuit so that the sys­ tem voltage controls the amount of magnetism.
The
contacts of the voltage regulator unit are con­
nected in the generator field circuit so that the field

circuit
is completed through the contacts when they

are
closed and through a resistor when the contacts
are
opened.

When
the voltage rises to a predetermined value
there is sufficient magnetism created by the regu­

lator
winding to
pull
the
armature
down.
This
opens

the contacts and inserts resistance in the field
cir­

cuit
of the generator thus reducing the
field
current.
The
generated voltage immediately drops, which
reduces the
pull
on the
armature
to the point where
the spring closes the contacts. The output again

rises
and the cycle is repeated.

These
cycles occur at high enough frequencies to
hold the generated voltage at a constant value and

will
continue as long as the voltage of the circuit
is high enough to keep the voltage regulator unit

in
operation.
With
the addition of a current load great enough to lower the battery voltage below
the operating voltage of the unit, the contacts
will

remain
closed and the generator
will
maintain a
charging
rate as limited by its speed or the current

limiting
regulator.

Due
to the
effect
of heat on the operating
charac­

teristics of regulator windings it is necessary to
compensate for the changes in coil resistance when
the regulator is operating under varying tempera­

ture
conditions.
This
is accomplished through the
use of a nickel iron magnetic by-pass on the volt­
age regulator unit.
This
shunt by-passes
some
of
the magnetic flux when the unit is cold and allows most of the flux to act on the armature when the

unit
is hot.
Thus
when the coil is hot and not as
efficient, the magnetic shunt reduces the amount of flux needed to vibrate the armature.

The
compensation is usually more than enough to

offset
the changes in regulator coil resistance due
to heat. The excess compensation allows the regu­

lator
to operate at higher voltage under cold
operating conditions than under hot conditions.
This
is necessary as it requires a higher voltage to charge a battery with its internal resistance in­

creased
by low temperatures.

H-45.
Current-Limiting
Regulator

The
function of the current-limiting regulator is to limit the output of the generator to its maxi­

mum
safe output.

The
electromagnet of the current regulator unit
consists of
a
winding of heavy
wire
that is connected
in
series with the generator output. When the gen­

erator
output reaches a predetermined value, the
current
in the winding produces enough magnetism
to overcome the spring tension and
pull
the
arma­
ture
down.
This
opens
the contacts and inserts re­
sistance in the field circuit of the generator.
With
the field current reduced by the resistance, the
generator output falls and there is no longer enough
magnetism to hold the contacts open. As soon as
the spring closes the contacts, the output rises and the cycle is repeated. These cycles occur at high
enough frequencies to limit the output to a mini­
mum
fluctuation.

H-46.
Preliminary Inspection

a.
Wiring—Check
the wiring to see that it is prop­
erly
connected to the generator.

b.
Generator
Performance—Make
sure the genera­
tor operates correctly without the regulator in the
circuit.
Remove the armature and battery leads

from
the regulator and connect an ammeter be­
tween them. Remove the field lead from the regu­

lator
and while operating at idle speed touch the
field
lead
to the regulator base. Increase the speed slowly noting the charging rate.

CAUTION:
Do not increase the output above
the rated output of the generator.

If
the generator output
will
not build up inspect
the wiring harness for shorts and
opens
and remove the generator for an overhaul. To check the genera­
tor circuit when a suitable ammeter is unavailable,

Fig.
H-19, disconnect the armature cable at the

regulator.
Connect one lead of
a
12v
test
lamp to the regulator terminal marked "armature" and with
the engine running, ground the other lead. Should
the
test
light
fail
to
burn
there is a fault either in the generator or regulator. To localize the fault, discon­
nect both the
"Field"
and
"Armature"
cables at the generator. Connect a wire from the
"Field"
ter­
minal
to ground and use a 60 watt, 110 volt
test

lamp
to ground the
"Armature"
terminal. If the
generator is charging satisfactorily the
test
lamp

will
glow
at approximately 1500 rpm. engine speed
and
the fault
will
be definitely localized in the
regulator.

c.
Incorrect Regulator—Make sui he regulator
is the correct type for use with the generator.

d.
Battery—Check
the specific gravity and termi­

nal
voltage of the battery. If the \ ttery is not up
to specifications substitute temporarily
for
test
pur­
poses
a fully charged battery of the same type and
capacity.

e. High Resistance Connections—Inspect the
wir­
ing between the generator, regulator and battery for broken wires and high resistance connections.

Pay
special attention to the ground connections at
all
three units. Connect a reliable ammeter with 1-ampere graduations in series with the regulator

B-terminal
and the lead removed from this
terminal.
Run
the generator at a medium speed and
turn
on the lights or accessories until the ammeter shows a 10-ampere charging rate. At this charging rate
measure the voltage drop between the following
points using an accurate voltmeter graduated in
,1-volt divisions. The voltmeter should not show

a
reading above the maximum noted.
Generator
"A" terminal to regulator
"A"
terminal
—.1-volt maximum.

Generator
"F"
terminal to regulator
"F"
terminal
—.05-volt maximum.

Battery
terminal to regulator "B" terminal— .1-volt maximum.

Regulator
ground screw to generator frame— .03-volt maximum. 191

Page 192 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
Regulator
ground screw to battery ground post
—.03-volt maximum.

Generator
frame to battery ground post—.03-volt
maximum.

H-47.
Test Procedure

a.
Circuit
Breaker—Connect
an ammeter in series between the regulator B-terminal and the lead
wire
removed from that terminal. Connect a
voltmeter between the regulator
A-terminal
and the regulator mounting base. Disconnect the field lead

from
the regulator
F-terminal
and insert a variable resistance (3 amp., 50 ohm capacity) between the

lead
and the regulator terminal. Run the generator
at about 1000 generator rpm. Insert all the re­
sistance in the field
circuit,
then slowly reduce the
resistance noting the voltage reading just before the change caused by the closing of the circuit

breaker.
Increase the charging rate to the figure
specified for the regulator being tested then reduce
the charging rate by inserting resistance in the
field
circuit.
Note
the voltmeter and ammeter

reading
just before the circuit breaker
opens
and
the ammeter reading drops to zero. The closing voltage and the opening voltage or current should
be within the limits specified. An accurate method
for noting the exact instant of the opening or closing
of the circuit breaker is to connect a headphone (2000 ohms or higher) to the battery and armature

terminals
of the regulator. When the contacts
open or close a
click
will
be
heard
in the headphones.
To
adjust the closing voltage change the armature

spring
tension by bending the hanger at the lower end of the spring. Increase the spring tension to

raise
the closing voltage or decrease the tension
to lower the closing voltage. To adjust the opening voltage raise or lower the stationary contact
keeping the contacts perfectly aligned. Increasing
the contact gap lowers the opening
'
voltage.
Change
the contact gap by expanding or contract­
ing the stationary contact bracket, keeping the
contacts aligned. Do not adjust the gap between
the contacts to less than the specified minimum.

b.
Voltage Regulator—Connect the ammeter as in

step
a. Connect the voltmeter between the regulator
B-terminal
and the regulator base. Remove the

variable
resistance from the field
circuit.
Run the
generator at
half
output for 15 minutes to bring
the regulator to normal operating temperature.

Keep
the cover on the regulator during the
warm-

up period and also when taking readings.
Stop the engine then bring it up to approximately 2500 generator rpm. Adjust the amperage to
half

maximum
output by turning on lights or accessor­
ies and then
note
the voltmeter reading.
This
read­

ing should be within the limits specified for the voltage regulator operation. To adjust the oper­
ating voltage change the
armature
spring tension by
bending the hanger at the lower end of the
arma­

ture
spring. After each adjustment
stop
the engine then restart it.
Bring
it up to speed and adjust the

current
before taking a reading. In order to obtain

an
accurate indication of the operation of the volt­
age regulator unit connect a headphone (2000 ohm

or
higher) between the
F-terminal
and ground to

pick
up the sound of the opening and closing of the
contacts. The clicks should be regular and clear without irregularities or missing. If the
tone
is not

clear
and regular remove the regulator cover and
inspect the contacts. The contacts should be flat
and
not burned excessively and should be aligned
to make
full
face contact. If the contacts need
cleaning refer to paragraph d for the method.

c.
Current
Regulator—Connect the regulator and the
test
equipment as in
step
b. Running the generator at approximately 3000 generator rpm.,

turn
on lights and accessories so that the generator must charge at maximum rate. The ammeter should give a reading within the limits specified.

To
adjust opening amperage, change the armature

spring
tension by bending the hanger at the lower
end of the armature spring. After each adjustment,

stop
the engine, then restart it.
Bring
the engine up to speed and take an ammeter reading. Keep
the cover on the regulator when taking
these

readings.

Connect
a headphone (2000 ohms or higher) be­
tween the regulator
F-terminal
and ground to pick
up the sound of opening and closing of the contacts.

Clear,
regular clicks should be heard over the
headphones; they should not be
irregular
or missing.
If
the
tone
is not clear and regular remove the
regulator cover and inspect the contacts. The
contacts should be flat and not burned excessively

and
should be aligned to make
full
face contact. If
the contacts need cleaning refer to paragraph d.
below for the method.

d.
Contacts—Inspect the contacts on all three
units.
In normal use the contacts
will
become

grayed.
If the contacts are burned or dirty or if they are not smooth, file the contacts with a #6

American,
Swiss cut, equalling file. Move the file

parallel
and lengthwise to the armature.
File
just
enough so that the contacts present a smooth
sur­

face toward each other. It is not necessary to remove every trace of pitting. After filing, dampen

a
piece of linen or lintless bond tape in refined

carbon
tetrachloride and draw the tape between
the contacts. Repeat with a dry piece of tape. Use
clean
tape for each set of contacts.
e. Recheck—Operate the unit at
half
maximum
output for five minutes with the cover on the regu­

lator.
Repeat the testing procedure for all units as described in a, b, c above. Be sure cover is on regu­

lator
when taking readings.

H-48.
Quick
Checks

H-49.
Low Charging Rate with a
Fully
Charged
Battery

A
fully charged battery and a low charging rate
indicates normal regulator operation.
A
further check of the regulator operation can be
made by using the starting motor for 5 to 10
seconds with the ignition switch in the "off" posi­ tion.
Then
start the engine and operate at a genera­
tor speed of 2500 to 3000 rpm. The charging rate should rise to its maximum value then taper off to

a
minimum charge as the battery becomes charged.

H-50.
High Charging Rate with a
Fully
Charged
Battery

This
is usually an indication that the voltage regu­

lator
is not operating correctly. The high voltage 192

Page 195 of 376


'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete

rectifying
diode assemblies
which
eliminate the need
for removing and replacing individual diodes; a
corpplete isolation diode assembly; and a rotor
assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field

coil,
and slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing
at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining
the system
voltage
at the output terminal. The
output current is determined by the battery electri­
cal
load; such as headlights, heater, etc.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed

unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced
as a complete unit.

H-64. ALTERNATOR
PRECAUTIONS

The
following precautions must be observed to
prevent damage to the alternator and regulator.

a.
Never reverse battery connections. Always

check
the battery polarity with a voltmeter before

any
connections are made to be sure that all con­
nections correspond to the battery ground polarity of the vehicle.

b.
Booster batteries for starting must be properly
connected. Make sure that the negative cable of
the booster battery is connected to the negative

terminal
of the battery in the vehicle. The positive
cable of the booster battery should be connected
to the positive terminal of the battery in the
vehicle.

c.
Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger.

d.
Never use a fast charger as a booster for

starting
the vehicle.

e.
Never disconnect the
voltage
regulator while
the
engine
is running.

f.
Do not ground the alternator output terminal.
g.
Do not operate the alternator on an open
circuit
with
the field energized.

h.
Do not attempt to polarize an alternator.

These
precautions are stated here as an aid to

service
personnel. They are also restated at appro­

priate
places in the
text
of this section of the
manual.

H-65. ALTERNATOR
CHARGING
SYSTEM SERVICE
Important:
All alternator
tests
for the 35, 40 and
55 amp alternator are the same, however, there is a
difference
between
the location of the various ter­

minals
and field current specifications. The field

current
of the 35 amp alternator should be 1.7 to 2.3 amps, 40 and 55 amp alternators should be 1.8
to 2.4 amps, with
full
battery
voltage
applied to
the filed coil. Disassembly and assembly procedures

are
the same for all three alternators.
Terminal
locations and wire harness color
codes
for the 35,
40 and 55 amp alternator are shown in Fig. H-38.

H-66.
Service Diagnosis

In
diagnosing a suspected malfunction of the

alternator
charging system, consideration must
be given to the complete electrical power plant of the vehicle; including the alternator, regulator,
ignition switch, charge indicator lamp, battery,

and
all associated wiring. If it is suspected that the

alternator
is not fully charging the battery and

fulfilling
the electrical requirements of the electrical
system, several checks should be made before

checking
the alternator itself:

Note:
Whenever service is required in connection

with
an alternator problem, the first
step
should be to verify that the wiring harness hook-up is correct
as indicated in Fig. H-38.

a.
Test the condition of the battery and
state
of
charge
(Par. H-2).
If the battery is not fully charged
and
in
good
condition, use a replacement battery
for making alternator system
tests.

Caution:
Make certain that the negative battery

post
is connected to ground when making the
battery installation. Serious damage to the alter­

nator
can result if battery polarity is reversed.

b.
Check
fan belt for proper tension (Par.
C-27).

Caution:
To increase belt tension, apply pressure
to alternator front housing only as permanent damage can result if pressure is applied to
rear

housing.

H-67.
Alternator In Vehicle Tests

The
following
tests
are made with the alternator

in
the vehicle with output and regulator connec­
tions maintained to the alternator except as noted

in
Fig. H-27 and H-28. The field plug and
voltage
regulator are disconnected for
these
tests.
The

tests
are given in proper order and detail in the
following paragraphs.

a.
Isolation Diode Test: To determine if the isola­
tion diode is open or shorted, refer to Par. H-69.

b.
Alternator Output Test: To isolate the trouble
to the alternator or regulator, refer to Par. H-70.

c.
Alternator
Field
Circuit
Test: To determine the condition of the field
circuit
(brushes and rotor),

refer
to Par. H-73.

d.
Brush
Insulation
and Continuity
Test:
To deter­
mine the condition of the
brush,
refer to
Par.
H-75.

e.
Rotor In-Vehicle Test: To determine whether
the rotor coil is open or shorted, refer to
Par.
H-73.
f. Any further
tests
must be conducted with the

alternator
removed and disassembled. When this
is done, the condition of the rotor, the rectifying

and
isolation diodes, and the stator can be further
tested.

A
commercial alternator tester Sun
Electric
Model

VAT-20
or equivalent can be used to make all
necessary
tests
on the alternator system. If a com­

mercial
tester is used, follow the recommended
testing procedure outlined by the tester manu­

facturer.
If
a commercial tester is not available, follow the
testing procedure as outlined in this manual.

H-68.
Test Equipment

a.
Volt Ampere Tester such as Sun
Electric
Model

VAT-20
or equivalent with meter ranges as shown

in
the following list can be used. 195

Page 196 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM DC
ammeter — 0 to 60 ampere

DC
ammeter — 0 to 5 ampere

DC
voltmeter — 0 to 16 volt
Rheostat — 40 ohm capable of
handling
3 amps.

Carbon
Pile — 45 amperes

b.
Diode Rectifier Tester C-3829.

c.
12-volt DC
test
lamp.

d.
Ohmmeter of any commercial type is not ab­solutely necessary but can be helpful.

H-69.
Isolation Diode
Check

With
the ignition key in the off position the correct voltage at the auxiliary terminal is zero volts. If
voltage measured at auxiliary terminal is the same as voltage at output terminal, the isolation diode
is shorted. In most cases, the charge indicator lamp
would be glowing with the ignition off if the isola­ tion diode were shorted. Refer to Fig. H-23.
GREEN

DC
VOLTS
13401

FIG.
H-23—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-
SHORTED DIODE
With
the engine running the correct voltage at the

auxiliary
terminal is 15.4 volts and at output ter­

minal
is 14.4 volts. If voltage of auxiliary terminal
is 15.4 volts, while at output terminal it is 12 volts

or
battery voltage, the isolation diode is open. In
most cases, this would be indicated by the charge

GREEN

TO
CHARGE
INDICATOR
LAMP1

15.4
VOLTS BLACK
VOLT

REG DC
VOLTS

BATTERY

DC
VOLTS
FIG.
H-24—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-

OPEN DIODE
indicator
lamp glowing when the engine is running.

Refer
to Fig. H-24.

If
the isolation diode is shorted or open, the heat

sink
and diode should be replaced as an assembly.

At
the time of manufacture, the diode is pressed into the heat sink and the complete assembly is in­
sulated from the alternator housing.

H-70.
Alternator Output Test

This
test
excludes the regulator from the alternator
system, thereby isolating the problem to either the regulator or alternator. Disconnect field and voltage regulator plug and
connect jumper from auxiliary terminal to field

terminal.
Start
engine and run at idle. Refer to

Fig.
H-25.
DC
VOLTS

13403

FIG.
H-25—ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
TEST
If
voltage at auxiliary terminal rises to 15 or 16
volts now, when it did not with voltage regulator
connected, then defect is in regulator and it should
be replaced. If voltage
does
not rise at auxiliary

terminal,
defect is in alternator stator or rectifier diodes, if field circuit checked out properly. For
defects
in stator or diodes, remove alternator from vehicle.

If
rated current output is obtained with at least 13
volts but less than 15 volts at the output terminal,
the alternator is functioning properly.

Caution:
Do not exceed rated current output of
alternator
by increasing load on alternator.

If
rated
current
output cannot be obtained, proceed

with
the
tests
and checks given in the following
paragraphs
and isolate the cause.
Note: The system is designed to produce slightly
more output at low operating temperatures and less
at higher temperatures to accommodate the
varying
demands of electrical power normally consumed at

these
temperatures.

H-71.
Regulator Test

The
regulator should be checked with an alternator
that is functioning properly. If the alternator is questionable, perform the Alternator Output Test
(Par
H-70) which excludes the regulator from the

charging
system and, therefore,
tests
the condition
of the alternator alone. 196

Page 204 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

11035

FIG.
H-40—PRESTOLITE STARTING MOTOR—F4 ENGINE 1— End
Plate

2—
Plug

3—
Thrust
Washer
4—
Brush
Plate Assembly 5— Screw
6—
—Lock
Washer
7—
Insulating
Washer
8—
Terminal

9—
Field
Coil
and Pole
Shoe
Set
10—
Frame

11—
Insulating
Washer

12—
Washer

13— Nut 14—
Lock
Washer

15—
Insulating
Bushing

16—
Pole
Shoe
Screw
17— Sleeve Bearing
18—
Drive
End Frame
19—
Intermediate Bearing

20—
Bendix
Drive

21—
Screw

22—
Lock
Washer

23—
Thrust
Washer

24— Key
25—
Armature

26—
Thru
Bolt

27—
Insulator

brush
and
pull
On
a line parallel with the side of
the
brush.
Take
the
reading
just as the spring leaves the
brush.
It is important that the brush spring
tension be kept within the limits specified at the end of this section. If the tension is too low, there

will
be a loss of efficiency from poor brush contact.
Too
great a tension
will
cause excessive brush and
commutator wear. To change the tension, twist the

spring
at the holder with long-nosed pliers,

c.
Worn
brushes should be replaced. Brushes that
are
soldered to the field coil should be unsoldered

and
the
loop
in the field coil lead should be opened.
Insert
the new brush pigtail to its
full
depth in the
loop. The new brush lead should be tightly clinched

in
the terminal and then soldered to make a strong, low-resistance connection.

H-99.
Commutator

Check
the commutator for wear and discoloration.
If
the commutator is rough or worn the armature should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride. Never use
emery cloth.

H-100.
Armature

Visually
inspect the armature for mechanical
defects
before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of
test
probes for testing armature

circuits.
To
test
the armatures for grounds, touch
one point of the
test
probes to a commutator seg­
ment and touch the other point to the core or shaft. Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed
will
burn

the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil con­ nected to the commutator segment is grounded.
To
test
for shorted armature coils, a growler as
shown-in Fig. H-42 is necessary. The armature is placed against the core and a steel strip is held
on the armature. The growler is then energized 204

Page 205 of 376

<jeep»
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

t
^

12956

FIG.
H-41—PRESTOLITE
STARTING
MOTOR—V-6
ENGINE

1—
End
Plate
2—
Oiling
Pad

3—
Thrust
Washer
4—
Brush
Plate Assembly 5—
Screw

6—
Lock
Washer 7—
Insulating
Washer
8—
Terminal

9—
Field
Coil
and Pole Shoe

10—Frame
11—
Insulating
Washer
12—
Washer

13— Nut
14
—Lockwasher

15—
Insulating
Bushing
16— Pole Shoe Screw
17—
Bearing,
Outer
18—
Drive
End
Frame
Pinion Housing
19— Intermediate Bearing Housing
20—
Lock
Washer 21—
Screw

22— Bendix Drive
23—
Thrust
Washer

24—Pin

25—
Armature

2 6—Commutator
27—
Thru
Bolt
28—
Insulator

29—
Bearing,
Intermediate
and
the armature rotated slowly by hand. If a
shorted coil is present, the steel strip
will
become
magnetized and
will
then vibrate.
H-101-
Field
Coils

Using
test
probes, check the field coils for both
ground and
open
circuits.

a.
To
test
for ground, place one probe on the motor frame or
pole
piece
and touch the other probe to the field coil terminals. If a ground is present, the
lamp
will
light.
b.
To
test
for
open
circuits, place the probes on
the field coil terminal and on an insulated brush.
If
the light,
does
not light, the coil is
open
circuited.
H-102.
Brush
Holder Inspection

Using
test
probes, touch the insulated brush holder with one probe and a convenient ground on the commutator end head with the other probe. If the
lamp lights, it indicates a grounded brush holder.
H-103.
Starting Motor Reassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.

a.
When assembling absorbent bronze bearing
found in the end plate and drive end frame, always
use the proper arbor
designed
to
give
the proper
bearing fit. Soak the bearings in oil
before
assem­
bling in the bearing bore. Give the bearing
seats

a
light coating of oil.

Note:
At assembly, the outer pinion housing bear­
ing must be flush with the bearing bore on the inside of the housing; the intermediate bearing
must be flush with the bearing bore on the side
toward the armature.

b.
Brushes should be correctly installed and con­
nected as outlined in Par. H-98 in order to be sure
of proper starting motor efficiency.
c. Assemble the armature bearing plate and Bendix

Folo-Thru
Drive to the drive end frame.
Install
the two holding cap screws and lock washers. Tighten them securely. 205

Page 206 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

Page 207 of 376


'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
require
a slight rotation of the pinion to index it
into the ring gear. When the
engine
starts the drive
pinion
will
automatically demesh from the ring
gear and return to its normal position.
H-107. Starter Solenoid Switch (Prestolite)

Refer to
Figs.
H-44 and H-45.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the
starting switch contacts due to corrosion or
burn­

ing.
Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage

at the battery terminals and that at the starting 13407

FIG.
H-44—STARTER SOLENOID—HURRICANE
F4
FIG.
H-46—PRESTOLITE STARTER
AND SOLENOID—V-6 ENGINE
switch terminals. The
voltage
drop should not
exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
Should
it be impossible to file the switch contact
plates to obtain a clean
full
surface contact the
switch should be replaced.
Current
model starting switches are of the
solenoid type, mounted directly on the starting
motors.
This
type switch is energized by turning
the ignition key to the extreme right position.

Should
a solenoid switch
fail
in service it is neces­

sary
to install a new solenoid assembly,
a.
To remove the solenoid switch first remove the nut and lock washer securing the solenoid strap to the starter
post.
Then
remove nut and lock washer securing battery positive cable to solenoid
post.

Tape
end of battery cable to eliminate the pos- 207

Page 212 of 376


H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges

Two
gauges
(fuel and temperature) and two in­ dicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically operated.

The
fuel
gauge
is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.

The
temperature
gauge
is connected by a single

wire
to a resistance-type sending unit mounted on the engine.

The
battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential
between
the generator
and
the battery
.The
battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator
light
goes
out when the generator
begins

to charge the battery.

The
oil pressure indicator is connected by a single

wire
to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When
engine
oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator
will

light. When
engine
speed is increased slightly above idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately 6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm2], the diaphragm switch
will
open the circuit and the indicator light
will
go out.

A
voltage
regulator maintains a constant
voltage
to the
gauges
in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this
voltage
regulator was mounted on the
rear
of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage
regulator is integral with the fuel
gauge.

Should
trouble
develop
in the
gauges,
first check the regulator (fuel
gauge
on current production vehicle). If the
voltage
to the regulator is below 10 volts system low
gauge
readings
will
result.
Voltage in
excess
of 16 volts
will
not affect
gauge

readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. If the
voltage
to the regulator is

within
the above limits, check the electrical con­ nections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. If the readings of all the
gauges
is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).

If
the temperature
gauge
or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against the instrument case.
Check
the jumper bar
between

the temperature
gauge
and heat indicator at the

rear
of the instrument case. On later production vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an in­
sulating
sleeve
to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. If the jumper bar

does
not have this
sleeve,
either install one or

wrap
the bar with plastic electrical tape to
half

an
inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing the jumper bar, be sure the curved
segment
is
closest to the fuel
gauge.

Should
only one of the two
gauges
register incor­
rectly,
check the lead wire from the
gauge
to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next disconnect the
gauge
from the sending unit, and
connect the
gauge
to a new fuel tank sending unit

which
has been grounded to the vehicle.
If
the
gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the
gauge;
if correctly, replace the sending

unit.

Should
a new fuel tank unit not be available for testing, use a 12-volt
test
light in its place. When
the
gauge
is operating correctly, the pointer
will

move
approximately three-quarters across the
dial.

On
some
vehicles, the temperature
gauge
may
register on or
close
to the H (hot)
mark
when
coolant temperature is
190°F.
to
200°F.
[88°C.
a

93°C.].
In such cases, a 25-ohm,
1-watt
resistor
may be installed on the temperature
gauge
which

will
place the pointer just beyond the center
mark
at a coolant temperature of
190°F.
to
200°F.
Install

the resistor
between
the two terminals on the back
of the
gauge.
Insulate the
exposed
leads of the resistor with electrical tape.

If
the oil pressure indicator
does
not indicate cor­

rectly,
first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible

defects
are corrected, the indicator light
does
not go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.

H-12S.
LIGHTING SYSTEM The
wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The
wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when check­
ing individual circuits.

The
lighting circuits of all models are protected by

an
overload circuit breaker mounted on the back of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.

The
upper and lower headlight beams are con­
trolled by a
foot
switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126.
Main
Light
Switch

This
switch is a dual functioning unit having two

push-pull
positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and
tail
lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail
lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.

The
switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut may then be removed and the switch removed
through the
rear
of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN
LIGHT
SWITCH
(EARLY)

1—
Battery
4—Parking Lights
2—
Rear
Lights 5—Auxiliary

3—
Head
Lights
212

Page 217 of 376


'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
cuit
lights,
the
signal switch
is
inoperative
and

must
be
replaced.

H-139.
Hazard
Warning Lights

All
current production vehicles
are
equipped with

a
four-way flasher warning system.
The
control switch
is
located
on the
instrument panel left
of

the steering column.
With
the
switch pulled
out,
the
two
front and
two
rear
turn
signal lights flash
on and
off
simultaneously,
as do
both
turn
signal

indicator
lights
on the
instrument clusters.
H-140.
Marker
Lights and Reflector Assembly

The
marker
lights
and
reflector assemblies
on

current
production vehicles
are
mounted
on the

side
of
the front fender and
on the
side
of
the
rear
quarter
panel.
The
spare wheel also mounts
a

marker
light. Some earlier production vehicles have
reflex reflectors mounted on the side of the hood and
on
the
side
of
the
rear
quarter panel. determine
if
dash wiper switch or wiring
is at
fault,
disconnect wiring harness from wiper motor
and

try
operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If
still
inoperative
see
procedure under
Par.
H-145.
b. Wiper
will
not
shut
off
— Determine
if
wiper
has both
low
and high speeds, slow speed only,
or

high speed only.
It is
important that
the
wiper
operates
at low
speed during parking cycle.
Dis­
connect wiring harness from wiper motor
and try

operating wiper independently
of
dash switch.
If

wiper
shuts
off
correctly with
crank
arm
in
park
position and wiper has both speeds, check
the
lead

between
terminal
and
dash switch ground
and

check
for
defective dash switch.
If
wiper shuts
off

correctly,
but has
high speed only, check lead
be­

tween wiper terminal and dash switch
for an
open

circuit
and check
for
defective dash switch.
If
still

inoperative,
see
Par. H-145.
c. Wiper
has
only fast speed.
Check
for
defective dash switch
or
open lead
between
terminal
and

dash switch.

H-141.
Windshield Wiper System

Early
production vehicles equipped with
the
Dauntless V-6
engine
have
two
single speed wind­
shield wiper motors mounted above
the
windshield inside
the
vehicle. The wiper motors
are
operated

and
controlled
by a
switch located
on the
instru­
ment panel.

Current
production vehicles with stationary wind­
shield have
a
two-speed
electric windshield wiper motor mounted below
the
windshield outside
the

vehicle on the driver's side. The wiper motor switch is located
on the
instrument panel
to the
left
of

the steering column.

H-142.
Two-Speed Wiper Motor

The
two-speed
electric wiper motor
is
operated and
controlled
by a
turn
type, three poled, dash switch,
containing
a 6
amp. circuit breaker.
Current
flow
is directed from
the
battery through
the
ignition
switch
to the
wiper dash switch assembly
to the

two-speed
wiper motor, which passes current from the designated motor brush (high,
low or
park)
to

the armature circuit
to
ground.

H-143.
Troubleshooting Procedure
Troubleshooting procedures
are
divided into
two

categories: wiper troubleshooting
in
vehicle; wiper
troubleshooting
on
bench.
Fig. H-65 and H-66

illustrates connecting leads
of the
two-speed
wiper for either bench operation
or to run
wiper inde­
pendently
of
dash switch and vehicle wiring when
installed
in the
vehicle.
H-144. Wiper Troubleshooting
in
Vehicle

Typical
wiper troubles and remedies are
as
follows
:

a.
Wiper
is
inoperative

Check
wiper switch
cir­

cuit
breaker; wiring harness connection
at
wiper
motor
and
wiper switch; wiper motor
feed
wire

from
ignition starter switch
to
wiper switch;
and
check wiper
on
switch
to be
securely mounted.

With
ignition switch
on,
check
for 12
volts
at
har­

ness
terminal that connects
to
wiper terminal.
To
BLACK
PARK

GREEN *-
RED m~
LOW
PARKING
<^^>

SWITCH
V^-O*'
HIGH

FIG.
H-64—WIRING
DIAGRAM

FIG.
H-65—WINDSHIELD
WIPER
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
(EARLY)
1.
Park
(black)
2. Low (green)

3.
High (red)
d.
Wiper
has
only slow speed
and
shuts
off
with
dash switch in high speed position. Reverse harness
leads that connect
to
wiper terminals.

e. If
blades
do not
return
to
park
position when

wiper
is
turned
off,
check wiper ground connection
to vehicle body. Remove wiper from vehicle
and

check
for
dirty, bent,
or
broken
park
switch con­
tacts.

f.
If
wiper speed
is
normal
in
slow,
but too ex­
cessive
in
fast speed, check for an open terminal. 217

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