Change JB JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G User Guide

(12) Remove differential from the housing. Ensure
that the differential bearing cups remain in position
on the differential bearings (Fig. 47).
(13) Remove bearing cups from the differential and
tag them to indicate their location.
(14) Remove differential case preload shims from
the housing and tag them to indicate their location.
(15) Remove spreader from housing.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If differential bearings or differential case are
replaced, differential bearing preload shim require-
ments may change. Refer Adjustments (Differential
Bearing Preload and Gear Backlash) to determine
the proper shim selection.
(1) With Spreader W-129-B and adapters from
Adapter set 6987, position the adapters in the differ-
ential holes (Fig. 48). Install the hold-down clamps
and tighten the tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(2) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side of
the differential housing. Attach Dial Indicator C-3339
to pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the indicator.
(3) Spread the housing while measuring the dis-
tance with the dial indicator. Spread the housing
enough to install the differential case.
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.38 mm (0.015 in). If
the housing is over±spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(4) Remove the dial indicator.(5) Install differential case in the housing (Fig. 49)
with bearing cups and preload shims in their original
locations. Tap the differential case to ensure the
bearings cups and shims are fully seated in the hous-
ing.
Fig. 47 DIFFERENTIAL CASE
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - BEARING CUPSFig. 48 SPREADER LOCATION
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - ADAPTER
3 - SAFETY HOLD DOWN
4 - SPREADER
5 - TURNBUCKLE
Fig. 49 DIFFERENTIAL CASE
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - BEARING CUPS
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 73
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(6) Install the bearing caps in their original loca-
tions (Fig. 50).
(7) Loosely install differential bearing cap bolts.
(8) Remove axle housing spreader.
(9) Tighten the bearing cap bolts to 64-91 N´m
(47-67 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the axle shafts.
(11) Apply a 6.35mm (1/4 in.) bead of red Mopar
Silicone Rubber Sealant or equivalent to the housing
cover (Fig. 51).
CAUTION: If cover is not installed within 3 to 5 min-
utes, the cover must be cleaned and new RTV
applied or adhesion quality will be compromised.
(12) Install the cover and tighten cover bolts in a
criss-cross pattern to 38-45 N´m (28-33 ft. lbs.).
(13) Refill the differential with lubricant and
install fill plug.
(14) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAC-LOKT
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 52).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
Fig. 50 BEARING CAP REFERENCE
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 51 DIFFERENTIAL COVER - TYPICAL
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - SEALANT BEAD
3 - SEALANT THICKNESS
3 - 74 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

DIFFERENTIAL CASE
BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove differential case from axle housing.
(2) Remove side bearings from the differential case
with Puller/Press C-293-PA, Adapters 8352 and Plug
SP-3289 (Fig. 64).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If differential side bearings or differential
case are replaced, differential side bearing shim
requirements may change. Refer to Adjustments
(Differential Bearing Preload and Gear Backlash) for
procedures.
(1) Install differential side bearings with Installer
C-3716-A and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 65).
(2) Install differential case in housing.
(3) Remove support and lower vehicle.
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/
TONE RING
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are serviced as a
matched set. Never replace one gear without the
other gear.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Mark pinion yoke and propeller shaft for
installation reference.
(3) Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion yoke
and tie shaft to underbody.
(4) Remove differential from housing.
(5) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw.
(6) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.
Fig. 64 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARING
1 - ADAPTERS
2 - BEARING
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - PLUG
5 - PULLER
Fig. 65 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL
3 - BEARING
4 - INSTALLER
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 79

traction. Pulling power is provided continuously until
both wheels loose traction. If both wheels slip due to
unequal traction, Trac-lokŸ operation is normal. In
extreme cases of differences of traction, the wheel
with the least traction may spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changeswhen the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 88 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

(10) Install axle vent hose.
(11) Install propeller shaft with reference marks.
(12) Install the wheels and tires.
(13) Add gear lubricant to specifications, if neces-
sary.
(14) Remove lifting device from axle and lower the
vehicle.
(15) Tighten the lower control arm bolts to torque
specification.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring gears and pinions are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring gear
and pinion are etched/marked onto each gear (Fig. 8).
A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched/marked on the face or shaft of the pinion. This
number is the amount (in thousandths of an inch)
the depth varies from the standard depth setting of a
pinion etched with a (0). The standard depth pro-
vides the best gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to
Backlash and Contact Pattern Analysis paragraph in
this section for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with select shims. The shims are placed
behind the rear pinion bearing (Fig. 9).
If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth
variance etched into both the original and replace-
ment pinion. Add or subtract the thickness of the
original depth shims to compensate for the difference
in the depth variances. Refer to the Depth Variance
chart.
Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns
intersect. Intersecting figure represents plus or
minus the amount needed.Note the etched number on the face of the pinion
gear head (±1, ±2, 0, +1, +2, etc.). The numbers rep-
resent thousands of an inch deviation from the stan-
dard. If the number is negative, add that value to the
required thickness of the depth shims. If the number
is positive, subtract that value from the thickness of
the depth shim. If the number is 0 no change is nec-
essary.
Fig. 7 LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
1 - AXLE BRACKET BOLT
2 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
3 - BODY BRACKET BOLT
Fig. 8 Pinion Gear ID Numbers - Typical
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - DRIVE PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER (SAME AS RING GEAR
NUMBER)
Fig. 9 Adjustment Shim Locations
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
3 - REAR PINION BEARING
4 - PINION DEPTH SHIM
5 - PINION GEAR
6 - BEARING CUP
3 - 92 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

(6) Install adjuster locks on the bearing caps.
(7) Install axle shafts.
(8) Apply a bead of red Mopar silicone rubber axle
sealant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 33).
CAUTION: If cover is not installed within 3 to 5 min-
utes, the cover must be cleaned and new RTV
applied or adhesion quality will be compromised.
(9) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(10) Fill differential with gear lubricant to bottom
of the fill plug hole.
(11) Install the fill hole plug.
(12) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(13) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(14) Trac-loktdifferential equipped vehicles should
be road tested by making 10 to 12 slow figure-eight
turns. This maneuver will pump the lubricant
through the clutch discs to eliminate a possible chat-
ter noise complaint.DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAC-LOKT
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 34).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
Fig. 33 Differential Cover Sealant
1 - SEALANT
2 - DIFFERNTIAL COVER
Fig. 34 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
3 - 106 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 22). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper piston bore, new piston seal
and piston with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of
bushing boots with silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper, then insert
bushing into boot and push bushing into place (Fig.
23).
(4) Install new piston seal into seal groove with
finger (Fig. 24).
(5) Install new dust boot on caliper piston and seat
boot in piston groove (Fig. 25).
(6) Press piston into caliper bore by hand, use a
turn and push motion to work piston into seal (Fig.
26).
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 27).
(9) Replace caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 PISTON SEAL REMOVAL - TYPICAL
1 - REMOVE SEAL WITH WOOD PENCIL OR SIMILAR TOOL
2 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 21 MOUNTING BOLT BUSHING AND BOOT -
TYPICAL
1 - CALIPER SLIDE BUSHING
2 - BOOT
Fig. 22 POLISHING PISTON BORE - TYPICAL
1 - SPECIAL HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

ELECTRICAL
DESCRIPTION
Three wheel speed sensors are used. The front sen-
sors are mounted to the steering knuckles. The rear
sensor is mounted at the top of the rear axle differ-
ential carrier. Tone wheels are mounted to the out-
board ends of the front axle shafts. The gear type
tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each
sensor.
OPERATION
The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digi-
tal signal. The CAB sends 12 volts to the sensors.
The sensor has an internal magneto resistance
bridge that alters the voltage and amperage of the
signal circuit. This voltage and amperage is changed
by magnetic induction when the toothed tone wheel
passes the wheel speed sensor. This digital signal is
sent to the CAB. The CAB measures the voltage and
amperage of the digital signal for each wheel.
FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor wire
connector that is located on the inboard side of the
respective wheel house.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the caliper adapter. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(5) Remove the disc brake rotor. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
to the hub (Fig. 1).
(7) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire from the
hub/bearing (Fig. 1).
(8) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire hold down
from the knuckle (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire thru the
wheel well.
(10) Remove the wheel speed sensor from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wheel speed sensor to the vehicle.
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor wire thru the
wheel well.
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor wire to the hub/
bearing.
(4) Install the wheel speed sensor wire hold down
to the knuckle.
(5) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
the hub. Tighten the mounting bolt to 14 N´m (10
ft.lbs.).
(6) Install the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Reconnect the front wheel speed sensor wire
connector to the inboard side of the wheel house
being worked on.
Fig. 1 FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - ROTOR
4 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE HOLD DOWN
5 - 34 BRAKES - ABSKJ