headlights MITSUBISHI MONTERO 1991 Service Manual

terminal "B" and negative lead to positive battery terminal. Reconnect
negative battery cable.
3) Start engine. Turn accessories on and adjust engine speed
until ammeter indicates 20 amps, and note voltmeter reading. If
voltmeter indicates .2 volt or less, system is okay.
4) If voltage is greater than .2 volt, wiring is defective
between alternator terminal "B", fusible link and battery positive
terminal. Disconnect negative battery cable, and remove test
equipment.
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TEST
NOTE: During alternator output test, a slightly discharged battery
should be used as a fully charged battery may not allow full
alternator output.
1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect negative
battery cable. Disconnect alternator output wire from terminal "B".
Install positive lead of 100-amp ammeter to terminal "B" and negative
lead to disconnected output lead.
CAUTION: Tighten each connection securely as heavy current flow will
exist. DO NOT use clips on ammeter.
2) Connect positive voltmeter lead (0-20 volts) to alternato\
r
terminal "B" and negative lead to ground. Install tachometer, and
reconnect negative battery cable.
3) Ensure voltmeter indicates battery voltage. If no voltage
exists, an open circuit is present in wire between alternator terminal
"B" and battery negative terminal. Check grounds and fusible link.
4) Turn headlights on, and start engine. Set headlights at
high beam and heater switch on HIGH. Quickly accelerate engine speed
to 2500 RPM and note alternator output current registered on the
ammeter. Minimum output should be within specification. Refer to the
ALTERNATOR MINIMUM OUTPUT SPECIFICATIONS table.
NOTE: Output voltage changes with electrical load and temperature.
Ensure proper electrical load is applied while checking
output. Nominal output may not be obtained if alternator or
ambient temperature is excessive. Allow to cool, and recheck
output. Alternator output is stamped on metal plate attached
to alternator case.
5) If minimum output is not obtained and alternator wiring is
okay, repair alternator. Disconnect negative battery cable, and remove
test equipment.
REGULATED VOLTAGE TEST
NOTE: Ensure battery is fully charged and proper drive belt
tension exists.
1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect negative
battery cable. Install a digital voltmeter between alternator terminal
"S" and ground. See Fig. 10. Connect positive voltmeter lead to
terminal "S" of alternator. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground.
2) Disconnect alternator output wire from terminal "B".
Install a 100-amp ammeter in series to terminal "B" and disconnected
output lead. Install positive lead of ammeter to terminal "B" and
negative lead to disconnected output wire. Install a tachometer, and
reconnect negative battery cable.
3) Turn ignition switch to ON position and ensure voltmeter
indicates battery voltage. If no voltage exists, an open circuit

Starters
Generator .................................. Generators & Regulators
Engine Performance
Power Distribution
Generic Electronic Module (GEM) ............... Body Control Modules\
Electronic Suspension
Glow Plug Relay ................................. Engine Performance
Glow Plugs ...................................... Engine Performance
Grounds ........................................ Ground Distribution
Headlight Door Module .............................. Headlight Doors
Headlight Relay .................................. Headlight Systems
Daytime Running Lights
Headlights ....................................... Headlight Systems
Daytime Running Lights
Heated Oxygen Sensor(s) (HO2S) .................. Engine Performan\
ce
Heated Windshield Control Module ................ Heated Windshields
Height Sensor ................................ Electronic Suspension
Horns ..................................... Steering Column Switches
Horn Relay ................................ Steering Column Switches
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor/Valve .............. Engine Performance\
Ignition Coil(s) ................................ Engine Performance\
Ignition Key Lock Cylinder ....................... Anti-Theft System
Ignition Module ................................. Engine Performance
Ignition Switch ................................. Power Distribution
Engine Performance
Generators & Regulators
Starters
Illuminated Entry Module .............. Illumination/Interior Lights
Illumination Lights ................... Illumination/Interior Lights
Impact Sensor ............................. Air Bag Restraint System
Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch ..................... Engine Performance
Inhibit Relay ............................................. Starters
Instrument Cluster ........................ Analog Instrument Panels
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor ............. Engine Performance\
Interior Lights ....................... Illumination/Interior Lights
Interlock Switch .......................................... Starters
Junction Block .................................. Power Distribution
Keyless Entry Receiver ........................ Remote Keyless Entry
Key Reminder Switch ....................................... Starters
Knock Sensor .................................... Engine Performance
Lamp Control Module ................................ Exterior Lights
License Plate Lamp ................................. Exterior Lights
Lighting Control Module ................... Lighting Control Modules
Anti-Theft System
Daytime Running Lights
Headlight Systems
Lower Relay .................................. Power Convertible Top
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ............... Engine Performance\
Instrument Panels
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor ......... Engine Performance\
Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor ....................... Engine Performance\
Mega Fuse .................................. Generators & Regulators
Memory Seat/Mirror Module ........................... Memory Systems
Mirror Defogger ............................... Rear Window Defogger
Moon Roof Motor .................................... Power Moon Roof
Moon Roof Relay .................................... Power Moon Roof
Multi-Function Control Module ...................... Warning Systems
Neutral Safety Switch ..................................... Starters
Oil Level Switch ................................ Engine Performance
Oil Pressure Switch/Sending Unit .......... Analog Instrument Panels
Engine Performance
Overhead Console .................................. Overhead Console
Oxygen Sensor(s) (O2S) .......................... Engine Performan\
ce

Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article









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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes









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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage









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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground
connections for
tight and clean
connections
Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch as
necessary









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Starter Cranks Battery weak or Charge or replace
Engine Slowly defective battery as necessary

Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch
Open circuit between Check and repair wires
starter switch ignition and connections as
terminal on starter relay necessary
Starter relay or starter See Testing in STARTER
defective article
Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article









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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes









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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage









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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground

The noid light is an excellent "quick and dirty" tool. It can
usually be hooked to a fuel injector harness fast and the flashing
light is easy to understand. It is a dependable way to identify a no-
pulse situation.
However, a noid light can be very deceptive in two cases:
* If the wrong one is used for the circuit being tested.
Beware: Just because a connector on a noid light fits the
harness does not mean it is the right one.
* If an injector driver is weak or a minor voltage drop is
present.
Use the Right Noid Light
In the following text we will look at what can happen if the
wrong noid light is used, why there are different types of noid lights
(besides differences with connectors), how to identify the types of
noid lights, and how to know the right type to use.
First, let's discuss what can happen if the incorrect type of
noid light is used. You might see:
* A dimly flashing light when it should be normal.
* A normal flashing light when it should be dim.
A noid light will flash dim if used on a lower voltage
circuit than it was designed for. A normally operating circuit would
appear underpowered, which could be misinterpreted as the cause of a
fuel starvation problem.
Here are the two circuit types that could cause this problem:
* Circuits with external injector resistors. Used predominately
on some Asian & European systems, they are used to reduce the
available voltage to an injector in order to limit the
current flow. This lower voltage can cause a dim flash on a
noid light designed for full voltage.
* Circuits with current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak
and Hold"). Basically, this type of driver allows a quick
burst of voltage/current to flow and then throttles it back
significantly for the remainder of the pulse width duration.
If a noid light was designed for the other type of driver
(voltage controlled, e.g. "Saturated"), it will appear dim
because it is expecting full voltage/current to flow for the
entire duration of the pulse width.
Let's move to the other situation where a noid light flashes
normally when it should be dim. This could occur if a more sensitive
noid light is used on a higher voltage/amperage circuit that was
weakened enough to cause problems (but not outright broken). A circuit\
with an actual problem would thus appear normal.
Let's look at why. A noid light does not come close to
consuming as much amperage as an injector solenoid. If there is a
partial driver failure or a minor voltage drop in the injector
circuit, there can be adequate amperage to fully operate the noid
light BUT NOT ENOUGH TO OPERATE THE INJECTOR.
If this is not clear, picture a battery with a lot of
corrosion on the terminals. Say there is enough corrosion that the
starter motor will not operate; it only clicks. Now imagine turning on
the headlights (with the ignition in the RUN position). You find they
light normally and are fully bright. This is the same idea as noid
light: There is a problem, but enough amp flow exists to operate the
headlights ("noid light"), but not the starter motor ("injector").
How do you identify and avoid all these situations? By using
the correct type of noid light. This requires that you understanding

Fig. 1: Engine Compt, Headlights, (Grid 1-3)